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Re: Eliminate draft tube options
Here's some "while ya wait" readin' material for ya.
http://www.earlycorvettes.com/linda/...khotrod001.pdf https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/s...hp?tid/335342/ https://www.inliners.org/tech/261_build.htm And a fun if not over the top video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKIjsXUMvhc |
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Re: Eliminate draft tube options
As you might imagine, I'm getting a little impatient with my "semi-retired" engine builder. He's a great guys with decades of engine building experience for hot rods, race cars, Bonneville competitors, and normal street engines. For a guy that is retired, he seems to have a lot on his plate.
As a result, while I've heard from him that he working on a plan, no real progress on my end has been forthcoming. The engine sits on the same engine stand I bolted it to many weeks ago. My best friend and the guy who sold me the truck has continued his suggestions for either an LS or a small block, which I have resisted for multiple reasons. I recently was told that there are companies that sell re-manufactured straight six engines. If I could get a 261 inline six, I could continue to use my McCulloch supercharger, bell housing and Saginaw four-speed transmission. So far in all my searching I've not found a 261, but I plan on calling a couple of the companies that Ive found with other straight sixes. Anyone aware of companies that I should contact? Admittedly, this is Plan B as I'd still like to have this engine repaired, but I'm getting impatient........ |
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Re: Eliminate draft tube options
if you are getting antsie and wanna get going on your engine, you could load it up and take it to a reputable engine shop and get a quote on a rebuild/refresh or a line bore and crank/pulley extra keyway. there is no requirement to have the work done but you will at least know what that would cost you. mention the things your engine buddy has talked about, eg, cyl wall thickness. that way you know what you have compared to a rebuilt from a generic builder who is simply punching out engines as quickly as possible.
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Offer a bonus if it is done by a certain date. I have seen some calendars move mighty fast when payola even the non monetary type is involved. like a case of something. or cash
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getting a quote is usually only gonna cost you the labour to load and unload yourself and then possibly a flat rate for them to check clearances atc. make sure to call ahead and ask for those details and get the guys name so you can talk to the same person. use a good engine rebuild shop with a recomendation from somebody in the know, if possible. you could also ask your older buddy if he has the time to fit you in or if he is too busy you understand but would appreciate a refernece to a good engine builder in the area.
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quick google search:
these guys are in texas, could get a 235 from them or see about sending your 261 in. or both https://www.mabbcomotors.com/catalog...t#fndtn-panel6 What is the overall condition of your motor? I think I commented before that the bores & deck look like more than just a couple hours run time from what can be seen in post 177 261 and 302 are not unobtainable, I've seen one of each on local marketplace in the last few months, both fully dressed, dual or triple carb 'hot rod' motors price in the 6-8k CDN range, don't see them now so probably sold. Given the population of Texas is 6x BC's there must be some come up near you as well |
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I have found a shop in California (I live in Texas) that has offered me two choices. 1) Send my engine to him and let him see if he can repair the original cracked end cap. After seeing photos he is fairly convinced that he can repair it. Then he would overhaul and rebuild the engine and head to a re-manufactured condition or 2) He has a late model 261 block that he will build to my specs and install all new parts.
He is pushing for option 1 on a cost basis, but after seeing his work on a head, I want the whole engine to look that great. He says that option 2 is about 2x the cost of option 1. We're going to have a discussion on the pros and cons of each option. Then I will decide. |
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first question is, do you know what your specs are?
second, always ask what will be replaced and what will be refurbished in the rebuilt engine. the reason i ask is because I replaced an engine for a friend who knew a rebuilder and had me remove the old engine, he picked it up and had it redone, then delivered for me ready to install. it looked like a rebuilt, walked and talked like a rebuild, BUT, when I was installing I had to remove a couple of broken off bolts for accy's and when I added coolant it had a leak. the leak was from a frost plug. no biggie, I told him and he said just replace that one cuz it musta been a bad one. well, when I got it out I found the block had never even been dunked! it was all rusty and gunked up inside and the frost plug was AN ORIGINAL. I felt really bad for him but I ended up pulling that engine and flushing thw cooling system as good as possible with the frost plugs out, replaced all the frost plugs. the builder said he wasn't gonna do any warranty just for that. I wondered if the rest was even done right but my buddy said he would run it and see what happens. he had a few issues but it was his camper hauler so he wasn't driving it all the time. I NEVER do stuff like that but, it was a buddy and he helps me when needed so I returned the favor. moral of the story, always ask whats gonna get done and whats gonna be repurposed inside. whats the warranty and conditions, is it warranteed if you install and do the initial start up etc. I would be careful about a welded front cap as well because it would need a line bore after anyway so back to square one. see all the points in previous posts from the guys and write a list of questions to ask the guy. see if he has customer reviews he can share, see what your gut tells you. |
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I have more questions and homework to do with him yet, but it turns out that he has multiple 261 blocks, so I have options. |
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I know it has been a few weeks since I had an update on my engine issue and I thought I give a one now. After waiting weeks to hear from my semi-retired local engine builder for a plan (he was searching for the tools needed to work on my engine). I found a shop in California that not only had the tools necessary but 1) he is convinced that he can either repair my cracked end cap, or 2) make the replacement end cap I had sourced on eBay work, or 3) build me a new engine from one of the several 261 blocks that he acquired.
As a result, I waited another week for my local buddy to get back to me after I sent him a text, then finally I made the decision to load my engine block and associated parts (pistons, lifters, push rods, water pump, intake/carb, magneto, etc onto a pallet and today I shipped the whole kit and caboodle to him. He expects to start work on it the first week of April and told me to expect four to six weeks for the the whole cleaning, machining, repair, paint, and rebuild. He also will put the engine on a test stand and set the timing, valve clearances, and test the engine for leaks. It will cost a bit more than I had hoped but from the look at other engines he rebuilt and sent me pictures of, I'm excited to get a rebuilt engine (hopefully my original block) back into the truck finally. More to come as I get updates. Thanks for hanging in there with me. |
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cool. good to hear youu will likely have it running for summer.
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definately ask for the specs on everything and the old parts back. that way you know stuff got changed. just saying.
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hey, any word on an update?
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He acknowledged receipt and sent me a photo of the pallet having arrived safe and sound. He had originally told me that he wouldn't be able to start on it until this week, so I will be checking in with him soon to see what his thoughts are once he'd viewed the engine and components. Attachment 2349052 Attachment 2349051 |
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around my house reflections off the shop floor are a sign something is leaking
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While I am impatiently waiting on my engine rebuild, I have been busily getting everything else in tip top shape. A friend painted the Mar-K bed metal that was still in primer. I decided to wire in and install four speakers, two will be installed in kick panels from Rod Door, two will be speaker enclosures behind the bench seat, and a subwoofer under the bench seat. I'm not sure it will make a big difference, but my adult son who fantasizes that this is "our truck" wanted them and I was bored.
This week I will begin the process of sanding and staining the new bed wood. Then I'll just have to sit and twiddle my thumbs until an engine is delivered. Attachment 2361404 Attachment 2361405 |
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looking good!
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