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Well I'm working this weekend again, had a late start today because i was up late working on my new cluster, but i was at least able to get out there for about an hour today before work.
I'm still fighting that large high spot that starts at the body line and go's up about 3-4".. I have been able to move some metal and made some improvement but i want that large high spot out before i weld in the door, I'm half tempted to take a cutoff wheel and make a slit right into the center of the high spot in hopes it will lay down but kinda afraid i'll open up a can of worms (oil canning maybe?) that i don't want. I'm to the point that if i had a patch panel in that area i'd probably go ahead and cut the area out and weld in the patch. I can at least say my stud gun works and Fedex just delivered a dent puller i ordered to work some of the smaller creases, it looks like a rivet gun but has a round cage that attaches to it to the working end to localize the pull. EDIT: I know the ridge has a couture the length from the rear of the truck to the well opening, just using the level as a reference. Here,s a link to the tool: Ding-Near-Perfect Dent Puller : Amazon.com :.... . . . |
Re: Rat repair.
keep at it:metal:
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The pros use a flash shrink gun when the metal is stretched out like that and short of using one I don't know of another method that would give a similar result, maybe Vic has some ideas for you.
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Start by locating the highest part of the crowned area. You'll need to remove the paint so the gun can do it's job. With the shrinking tip inserted, start at the very center and heat a spot for 1-2 seconds then release the trigger and continue to hold the tip against the metal for several seconds. Move out about an inch and repeat at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock. If needed, move out another inch and repeat in a circular pattern. Some guys lay out a spiral pattern, but I prefer concentric circles. Some guys will tell you to cool the hot spots with a damp rag or compressed air, but the procedure works fine without it. Like nearly all metal and body work, this can be technique sensitive. It is very easy to over-shrink a high spot. But you can always fix that with some draw pins and filler. High spots have to come down regardless if you want the panel right. Good luck! |
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In the pic's the high spot I'm showing is right on the body line and extends both upward and downward with the worst being above the body line, if i do shrink above and below the body line should i attempt to shrink the body line as well? The high spot on the body line is the area I'm having the hardiest time dealing with. I understand what your getting at with the shrinker and will see about finding a shrinking tip. I was also told a few years back to buy a shrinking disk but never got that far before i got side tracked on this truck due to injury/house remodel. Here's the past history, thanks again Dieselwrencher for letting me invade his thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426756 |
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Ok Vic thank you again.
I'm leaving for work again soon, just too tired to get out there and work on it today. Getting ready for a nice corned beef cabbage, potatoes and carrots lunch, the house smells great! |
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Good eats! Not the Pop Tart, though.:lol:
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An no serpents be drivin away! LOL!
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Dont you just hate warps..lol
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Ok be sure to visit this thread in the near future :)
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=6578527 Thought i'd post the original picture of the rear quarter dent, man if there was only a dent Doctor back in the late 80's.... Amazing how much more damage i have caused just trying to pop the dent out myself.. :lol: |
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The last couple of days(or in this case late nights) i have been working on the bezel i bought, it has been taking up space on my desk and i need the space to get my taxes done.. Here's the before and after pic, still don't know when i'm gonna get around to installing it. Polished the lens to remove the scratches it was really hazy, repainted all the needles, replaced the temp gauge and cleaned it up a bit, there was a film of some kind allover the speedo, tried soap and water and didn't faze it, ended up rubbing it with carnuba wax for about 1 hour and got most of it but not all
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Really nice work on the instrument cluster!
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Got a dent very similar to that one on one of the four bedsides I have laying around for Mustard (still all covered with snow). They all stink, so I might have to use the one with the dent, so it'll be interesting to see how you handle that one.
That cluster looks really nice, by the way. Makes me look forward to digging into mine. I've heard about toothpaste working well for polishing up the lenses, too, but I really don't know why that would be different than any other polishing compound. Hopefully you can get to your taxes now and spend the refund on your truck:metal: |
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Well, story of my life, as soon as i'm ready to work on the truck the rain rolls ion in LOL!
Looks pretty ugly huh? I was able to suck in some of the high spots using the shrink tip on my stud welder, there is still a bit more to do. I decided it was time to clean up the door surround and check out the conture, i massaged it a little and got it pretty close, didn't install the door into the surround yet but will do that before i weld it in. This brings up a question..... I cant reach the back side of the opening with my bantam motor so whats the best way to clean and prep the back side before ya weld? I can take some Scotch brite or sand paper to it but think that may take a while. Same go's for wanting to cover the weld with seam sealer when I'm done. Ideas?? If anything good came from this its that i am now looking at the paint layers, my step dad paid my uncle to paint this truck When my uncle was out of work and needed money, its now evident that my uncle just scuffed the original paint then primed and repainted, I already know he just masked around the door handles, windows and trim lettering and the original paint was in great shape before it was painted, so I'm half tempted to grab my sander and try and sand the outer paint and primer off then get back to the original color, anybody think this is possible?? the exterior dark green is pretty shot. |
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awsome work on everything, cluster looks sweet. :metal:
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When I need to clean up the back of something that's borderline unreachable, I'll take a couple of sanding discs and put them back to back and install them on an air sander. Discs in attached photos may be too large for your application, but can be trimmed to the size needed. Put the discs thru the opening and use the sanding surface that's facing you. As for the seam sealer, I'd just use my fingers. I doubt you'll have much luck sanding down just the repaint layer. But if you plan a repaint, it needs to come off anyway. No use wasting expensive materials on a quickie prep. |
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I did find that it was hard to control the shrink, I'd put the tip where i wanted to shrink but a number of times the hot spot was actually at the outer ring electrode, not sure why if both Ring and Tip were touching. But at least i made some headway, far from perfect. Oh, I do have the 2" filler neck. :) EDIT: Vic whats a good gap to maintain before tack welding? 1/16"?? or less? I have the Harbor freight version of the butt weld clamps but thought maybe the gap required by them may be a little too wide? |
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Well nothing much to report today, i did a little more shrink/hammer dents work then decided it was time to weld in the door, pulled my welder out and searched....and searched... I swear i had already bought .023 wire and supplies but i guess not... Oh well back up town again..
Wanted to take a moment to show my tweaker levers i made, i also have some made from Richlite as well, come in handy for straightening sheet metal edges. |
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