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-   -   Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia" (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=503533)

67c10rustbuket 07-07-2012 06:41 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
5 Attachment(s)
My little helper and I removed the seat :lol: Okay she just sat there and smiled asking "what happened?"

I removed everything attached to the cab so it is ready to remove from the frame. I need to go shopping for some dolly wheels and figure out what to make to set the cab on. still thinking about what to do there.

67c10rustbuket 07-07-2012 06:43 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
1 Attachment(s)
And a preview of the pass side rust that will need the same treatment as the driver side.

67c10rustbuket 07-07-2012 06:44 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
It is way too hot so I am going to have to take another shower and take the girls out for dinner. Hopefully do a little more this evening.

67c10rustbuket 07-08-2012 10:00 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MJs69CST (Post 5473933)
Stay cool and have fun with the family.

Thanks we did have some fun, family is the best!

After mowing the yard today I got the wire wheel on the old grinder and did some investigating on the donor roof. The top side looks great with zero rust but the inner will need a patch at least but I will likely just buy the inner skin repair panel and that way I can remove the old inner skin and coat the inside with POR15 to stop this horrid design that promotes self disintegration. Too hot to get much more done today. Here are the pics...

El Campo 07-08-2012 11:30 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Hey dude now would be a great time to really quiet the truck down with some sound deadener in the roof. Thats what I am planning on doing to mine when I take the skin off. They say that a lot of your sound and most of your heat comes through the ceiling. Check out this link if you are interested:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
Even if you were feeling cheap I think that some of these tiles would do wonders. And I figured up how many you need and its only about 30 bucks for them. I am going to do the whole shebang on mine and put tiles plus the MLV plus the closed cell foam in my roof because I drive a Ford (which has the best AC in the world IMO) and wont be satisfied unless it is a virtual refrigorator in the 72 also.
P.S. donor roof skin looks AMAZING!!!

jhaymon 07-09-2012 03:12 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
i cut the innner roof skin out today to take that piece of wax covered cardboard out and fix a couple of rust holes on my roof seam . im throwing some dynamat in this one. you're right about self destructive. im putting in a headliner so i may just cut the center of the inner skin out so it doesn't trap moisture like the factory design.

67c10rustbuket 07-09-2012 07:56 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by El Campo (Post 5475887)
Hey dude now would be a great time to really quiet the truck down with some sound deadener in the roof. Thats what I am planning on doing to mine when I take the skin off. They say that a lot of your sound and most of your heat comes through the ceiling. Check out this link if you are interested:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
Even if you were feeling cheap I think that some of these tiles would do wonders. And I figured up how many you need and its only about 30 bucks for them. I am going to do the whole shebang on mine and put tiles plus the MLV plus the closed cell foam in my roof because I drive a Ford (which has the best AC in the world IMO) and wont be satisfied unless it is a virtual refrigorator in the 72 also.
P.S. donor roof skin looks AMAZING!!!

Thanks again and Thanks for the link I will check them out! I was thinking dynamat or similar. Definitely needs something for insulation and sound deadening. The other 2 trucks I had (well only drove one) were very noisy like driving in a giant can.:lol: And I like AC, not real big on sweating in this heat:devil:

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhaymon (Post 5476152)
i cut the innner roof skin out today to take that piece of wax covered cardboard out and fix a couple of rust holes on my roof seam . im throwing some dynamat in this one. you're right about self destructive. im putting in a headliner so i may just cut the center of the inner skin out so it doesn't trap moisture like the factory design.

Thats a great idea too, I will have to look into using a headliner and removing some of the skin maybe. I wonder if it would need extra bracing there though. any though on that? Im starting to wish they made aftermarket cabs for these trucks :waah:

jhaymon 07-09-2012 09:29 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Quote:

Thats a great idea too, I will have to look into using a headliner and removing some of the skin maybe. I wonder if it would need extra bracing there though. any though on that? Im starting to wish they made aftermarket cabs for these trucks
thats a good question. i was going to fold the edge to keep from chopping my fingers off, but i'll start working on a brace. maybe i can mod a roof brace out of a burb

TchncnDen 07-10-2012 07:00 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
I have a headliner idea that I think might solve two problems in one. Since you have two roofs available you could cut the inner skin on the one being used on the truck to do any rust cleanup and add sound deadener, then cut the inner from the original roof about an inch bigger all the way around and use that as your headliner. It could be attached with sheetmetal screws or captured nuts and some nice "dress up" screws and that would solve your bracing concerns. You could paint it the same color, a contrasting color or upholster and you know it would fit perfect. And the bonus part that is right up my alley is that it wouldn't cost you a dime.

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:40 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by jhaymon (Post 5477501)
thats a good question. i was going to fold the edge to keep from chopping my fingers off, but i'll start working on a brace. maybe i can mod a roof brace out of a burb

Good idea I like my fingers too!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TchncnDen (Post 5479099)
I have a headliner idea that I think might solve two problems in one. Since you have two roofs available you could cut the inner skin on the one being used on the truck to do any rust cleanup and add sound deadener, then cut the inner from the original roof about an inch bigger all the way around and use that as your headliner. It could be attached with sheetmetal screws or captured nuts and some nice "dress up" screws and that would solve your bracing concerns. You could paint it the same color, a contrasting color or upholster and you know it would fit perfect. And the bonus part that is right up my alley is that it wouldn't cost you a dime.

I like that idea, I might have a removable skin but behind a stock headliner since I have an extra. And of course it will actually fit and the price is right!

Here are a few pics!! working the rest of the cab corner, and a lot more to come:smoke:

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:42 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
2 Attachment(s)
Cut down the front pillars a little longer than what I intend to keep in the roofadectomy, also removed the rear of the cab section from the donor roof.

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:46 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
4 Attachment(s)
I finally manipulated the rockers around the top where they did not quite fit the profile of the pillars. I used an old press brake die for motivation;) pics don't really show the improvement on the rear but it is way closer than it was! Need to add a little weld now.

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:51 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
4 Attachment(s)
Next up I made a real fancy cab removal jig modeled after some I found on here. I decided to use 2x6 rather than 2x4s for strength as my best friend is overkill and man it worked great! Way too easy, Only problem was my hoist seems to be too tall or the truck was too low so I modified on of the 2x6 ends to clear. Now I am running out of room! it is difficult to do a complete frame off in a 2 car garage.

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:53 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
I also used a yellow ratchet strap to anchor the hoist extension to the engine hoist so I would not have to worry about balancing it.

67c10rustbuket 07-15-2012 12:58 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here she is sitting on a couple jack stands and cinder blocks for the moment. I have to go out to the father in laws and get some round structural steel and make a cab dolly on wheels to move this monster around. I will be removing the engine and trans and trailer the frame out to be blasted and then I will spray some paint and begin assembling the rolling chassis as well as doing more rust repair on the cab. I have parts now stashed all over the garage (obviously), in the side yard, in the attic, and maybe a few hiding in the house! cant wait to start putting a few BACK ON THE TRUCK!!:metal:

DD1 07-22-2012 12:13 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket (Post 5486698)
Next up I made a real fancy cab removal jig modeled after some I found on here. I decided to use 2x6 rather than 2x4s for strength as my best friend is overkill and man it worked great! Way too easy, Only problem was my hoist seems to be too tall or the truck was too low so I modified on of the 2x6 ends to clear. Now I am running out of room! it is difficult to do a complete frame off in a 2 car garage.

Dan, I hear you. My garage is an old barn, and I can fit our cars in one behind the other. The truck takes up almost all the room, and there is very little room on the side. At least you get to have room in the second bay.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket (Post 5476265)
Im starting to wish they made aftermarket cabs for these trucks :waah:

They actually do make fiberglass aftermarket cabs for these trucks. Cost over $6k. http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Trucks/67-Chevy.htm


Hey Dan, it looks like it is coming along nicely. I did not realize you still had the passenger side of the truck to do. Glad I checked your post. I must have unsubscribed by mistake again. I did not get notified of your updates and I have not been on in a while.

El Campo 07-22-2012 11:05 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Hey Dan do u mind looking down in between the inner and outer cab skin and letting us all know how much clearance is in there? Would help me a bunch by letting me know how much space is available for sound deadening. Great process!
Posted via Mobile Device

mcbassin 07-22-2012 11:54 AM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Nice work on the cab Dan.
Posted via Mobile Device

suspect 07-22-2012 08:18 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
your garage is looking nice and cozy like mine.

NewType72 07-22-2012 09:12 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
lookin good man keep up the ingenious work

67c10rustbuket 07-22-2012 11:22 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by DD1 (Post 5498737)
Dan, I hear you. My garage is an old barn, and I can fit our cars in one behind the other. The truck takes up almost all the room, and there is very little room on the side. At least you get to have room in the second bay.



They actually do make fiberglass aftermarket cabs for these trucks. Cost over $6k. http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Trucks/67-Chevy.htm


Hey Dan, it looks like it is coming along nicely. I did not realize you still had the passenger side of the truck to do. Glad I checked your post. I must have unsubscribed by mistake again. I did not get notified of your updates and I have not been on in a while.

Sweet! I wonder if anyone here has used one? a little spendy for my budget though. Yeah I decided to get the frame and drivetrain in order then do the pass side rust and do the bottom of the cab in raptor liner and epoxy primer the cab before setting it back on, well see how that goes..

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Campo (Post 5499092)
Hey Dan do u mind looking down in between the inner and outer cab skin and letting us all know how much clearance is in there? Would help me a bunch by letting me know how much space is available for sound deadening. Great process!
Posted via Mobile Device

Sure, I have a patch cut out of the roof on my truck where the pass visor would be and there is 1.5" there but I cant even get my fingers through where the headliner recess starts so probably .5" around that perimeter and .75 to maybe 1" toward the middle of the roof where it crowns up. I can get a real measurement once I do the inner skin replacement but that will have to wait on the frame to get done first before I get back to fixing the cab.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin (Post 5499152)
Nice work on the cab Dan.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Mike, I'm a bit slow in this heatwave!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by suspect (Post 5499866)
your garage is looking nice and cozy like mine.

Cozy?! :lol: Yeah it is getting real crowded. Now I have to put the eng/trans in the floor also. Getting REAL COZY! C ya Later bro

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewType72 (Post 5499999)
lookin good man keep up the ingenious work

Thanks man, I dont know about ingenious I think I'm more like a slightly skilled boob. I see you have some paint on that truck in your avatar pic. I will have to check that out havent checked in on you in a while. :chevy:


Okay so I made a cab dolly in 107 degree heat in a shop (no ac)with a lincoln ranger 250 stick welder and I hate stick welding. I think I lost 10lbs in sweat while doing it. It is not pretty just a bunch of leftover construction steel lying around the property at the inlaws. A little angle iron, square tube, rectangle tube, an old hardware store sign frame. I made it 3'x4' x2' tall and used 3" casters from tractor supply. It will get cleaned up later and a steel plate top so I can use it as a work table when I'm done with this truck.

Here's the pics! also cut the high hump hole out. I think I will make a couple C channels to weld the nuts to on the long sides and weld those to the underside of the floor. Similar to what they did originally but GM only used a flat strip. Now I can get back to stripping the frame down and send it out to be blasted and begin the chassis assembly.

El Campo 07-23-2012 02:34 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
Thanks for that! Cab dolly looks nice. I need to build one myself. Hate the idea of welding or grinding on anything on a freshly painted frame.

tantrumpipeline 07-23-2012 08:23 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
More quality work and great design on the picker
Posted via Mobile Device

67c10rustbuket 08-01-2012 11:41 PM

Re: Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"
 
4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by El Campo (Post 5501174)
Thanks for that! Cab dolly looks nice. I need to build one myself. Hate the idea of welding or grinding on anything on a freshly painted frame.

Thanks! I hear ya on the grinding on a clean frame, If you make a dolly make it about 1 foot tall not two. Mine barely clears the garage door! and take into consideration that the front body mounts are lower than the rear so the cab will sit high in the front on a level surface.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tantrumpipeline (Post 5501744)
More quality work and great design on the picker
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks man, I just improved on a few designs i found here. I was thinking beer and a few friends but the steel was cheaper :lol:

I have been slacking in this heat as I noticed many have on here. It was 112f today!!!!:devil: I have been stripping everything off the frame and got the trailer ready today and loaded up the frame. Off to the sand blaster tomorrow:metal:

Yeah the pics are at night sorry, did I mention it was 112f today? It is miserable working in the garage even at 10 pm when it is 95 degrees!

Any way I stripped everything off of the frame except the rear suspension. I removed all the bolts that were attached to the frame and left the trailing arm bolts in. Then picked up the front of the frame and walked it halfway on the trailer, think chariot. Then my neighbor came over and we removed the trailing arm bolts and dropped the rear suspension and shoved the frame the rest of the way on. Then I flipped it over because it wont sit very well right side up. Here are a few pics.


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