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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
My problem is I have to learn to half-a$$. :smoke:
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no wonder I ain't gettin no where....:dohh: |
Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins
My kid is tired of helping/learning on this project and just wants me to drive the damn thing.
:lol: Now I think I need to pull the gauge panel, as the hard oil line is clogged (visibly) at the engine and I think I need to disconnect the speedo cable from the back and then get to the other end of this oil line with an air nozzle. I'm not starting this fresh rebuild without being able to monitor the oil pressure. Oh, and I still need to put the shifter back on the transmission - to make sure I'm in "Park" or "Neutral". Oh - and put some more gas in the tank too. Another month out to do it. :uhmk: (just shoot me) |
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A few more photos for our resident scavengers.......:lol:
http://tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:...e-pictures.jpg |
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continued carrion………
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some more carnage………
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and finally........
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Ahhhhhh yes progress pics. Motor look nice and clean Mac.
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Looks good! Nice, descriptive pics...
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;) Thanks guys. Memorial Day will be the one-year anniversary for getting "The Tan" back from the OC Sheriff. I'm lighting this ol' girl off, hell or high water.
Mac. :chevy: |
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:metal::metal:
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:smoke: What's the next size smaller than a 1/8 in N.P.T?
Saturday we tried to clear the oil line to the gauge - by disconnecting it at the cluster, after disconnecting the speedo-cable. After taking the screws out gave up on trying to get the cluster out, as the plastic was very old and brittle, and came to find out (via a mirror and an LED) the very small line was soldered to the back of the gauge anyway. Don't know if this is normal, but I was trying to get it off to blow through with high pressure air to clear some junk that was obviously clogging the line where it connects to the engine. Ended up taking the tube cutter and hacking about 4" off the other end, with the weird little fitting - and sure enough - when we hit the short piece with air a hard little booger came flying out. Now I've got to find a crimp type sleeve fitting that can grab that tube (about .100 outside diameter - with a tiny little hole) that has a 1/8 in N.P.T. end to go into the block, next to the distributor. Ideas? :ito: |
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Those are compression fittings, Mac. Go to the hardware store...Im thinking 1/8''. You should have a combination union that goes into the block that is NPT on one end and Compression on the other. Also, performance stores have mechanical guage kits (Autometer) for re-doing gauges that mite have the correct parts....wont be cheap;). But we know money is no object at this point, right?
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And I may just buy a cheapo set (water temp and oil pressure) of gauges to use strictly for the motor break-in, if I can't get past this very minor oil line plumbing annoyance. Got the shifter set in and everything hooked up on Saturday too. Got the itch to make fire this coming holiday! :devil: |
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I hope I was clear on that last reply. I went out and got a bunch of this stuff awhile back. I am going to add a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my 'burb and still run the factory dash guage. I bought copper tubing, compression fittings with ferrules (the little ring) and even found the combo NPT to compression adaptors. You mite find the stuff at Home Depot in the plumbing dept.
I picked up the copper line because the gauge kits nowadays come with some type of plastic line. I'd rather have the copper as Ive seen it pretty beat up and not leaking. Worth the hassle of trying to thread it thru the firewall IMO. .....hope you get it straight. |
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Home Depot and Lowe's does carry exactly what your speaking of - usually in conjunction with one of those tiny lines running off water heaters and such for their thermostat mechanisms. Fortunately, when I was talking with one of the guys in the shop at second break - he thought he had one in a small tin in his tool box: The fitting is hex stock, about 3/4" long - 1/8" NPT on one end and straight thread (compression) on the other - with about a .080 diameter hole down the center, and we were able to grub up ONE crimping sleeve. I deburred the one end of the sample (4" long) piece and it just slides over the outside of the tube - as does the compression nut. With a short little riser pipe to come from the block hole, a coupler and this trick little fitting - I think my last start up excuse just evaporated. Thank you. Mac. :chevy: |
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Myth Busters Question: As I’m about ready to fire off the ol’ Small Block here shortly (this weekend, maybe) - I’m taking all kinds of last minute input and heard a theory this morning that was new to me.
After break-in, immediately stuff clean shop rags into the bottom of the ram horns (I’ll be running initially without exhaust pipes/mufflers) after first shut off. As the story goes - this keeps cold air from rushing back in and warping the valves (?) Survey Says? Mac. :chevy: |
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Why no exhaust?
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Put the pipes on...
Running it without pipes will damage the valves, but that's more common in colder weather. |
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The FlowMasters I have from my Chevelle, after running them for about two weeks are what I'm going to put on my C-10. Because my tail-shaft sticks too far out (about 1-1/2") from the TH350, I'm going to have to have the drive-shaft lengthened and re-ballanced anyway, so the tow truck will haul it first to the muffler shop - install my mufflers - dumping them out just in front of the rear wheels (just because I've always wanted them like that) and then I'll have the C10 hauled to the transmission / rear end shop, for new gears in the back, new shorter springs in the front, reworked drive-shaft and brake overhaul. I don't do brakes (yet) and I don't do exhaust systems (ever). ;) |
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I'd wait for pipes. You could burn a valve. Unless you just want to see fire come out the headers.;) I'd have a bud there to adj timing and watch for leaks and to top off coolant. The smoother breakin goes the better off you are.
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No sence in taken risk now after all your hard work Mac. |
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
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That dude must of had your truck for a while to start doing that kinda crap to it. What you could do is go to the exhaust shop and have two 3 foot of pipe made up and just clamp your mufflers to it till you can get it to the shop. You can measure out where the bends need to be then just tell them there for ole rams horns, they'll know. Then when you can get it there they can weld you mufflers to some fresh pipe and make it all nice and pretty.
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:smoke: Just got back from 'Plaza Muffler' at lunch - owners says just have the truck towed down on any Friday (but this one) and it'll be done for the tow back by Saturday noon - using my mufflers and tips. I'm such a....... http://tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:...ma%2Bqueen.jpg Drama Queen! :lol: |
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Its a Chevy smallblock.....fire it up!!:metal:
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Yes , I have heard this , but its real "Ol School" now that engines have better quality parts this problem has gone away years ago, I have Race engines (327's) that run wide open exhaust with ony 30" header tubes and get shut off after a 1/4 mile run at 7500 RPM , cold air rushes in on those valves , No problem even racing in 50 degree cool night air , My Motorcycle is the same way , short drag pipes with nothing to block the cold air rushing in. I drive it all winter. Hope this 2 cents worth of info sets your mind at rest . Now GO FOR IT! LOL Desert |
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Did you get it started?
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holy crap...talk about dragging something out......
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What part of 'Drama Queen' don't you understand? http://tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:...ma%2Bqueen.jpg Mac :chevy: |
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:lol:
is it running yet?!?!?!?! |
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If it's not fired off by the end of the day I'm not sure I believe this project even exists. Think about it. We haven't seen pictures since I don't know when--get on him Joe. I almost need a video of it running to verify that it's real.
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