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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Also, if your lower ball joints don't have a grease fitting... just tap them. It was easy, I did mine in minutes... I bought new zerks but I couldn't get them to thread. I used the old ones off the LCA's and they threaded right into my new holes. Just make sure your holes are drilled small enough... you can always go up a size... not down.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=571825 |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
yeah i def need new LCA too but i can only buy a few things at a time. I did order my drop tempalate. Ball joints look of except on the lower end...It looks smashed and mushy lol. So my plan is to buy until i have all the parts then do it.... Until then i work on the cowl
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Sounds like a Plan. I bought a lot of mine in phases. I bought the brake kit and export brace over a year and a half ago. The upper/lower control arms about a year ago. Some of the other components 6 months or so ago... then crunch time came for the 50th and I was forced to drop a lot of $ at once. My Street or Track bill is what wiped me out, but GOOD STUFF! I'll FINALLY have everything paid back and a little spending money for the first time in a couple months this Friday.
I also met the owner of that other white car last weekend. His car SOUNDS amazing. Mine... not so much (it's quiet) but I want a cruiser, so I don't want it loud anyway... but there are times when I wish it was :) |
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Been busy going to shows, rebuilding my front porch (all done minus one stair rail, TREX screwed up my order twice and by the 3rd time they got me the correct stair kit, it was 4 weeks after I got my straight rails!) but I have gotten some work done on the car.
I made it to the 50th show in Charlotte... twice. Went on Friday, then drove back up on Sunday (Saturday was a total wash out.) Got do drive ON THE TRACK! That was awesome. Did a bunch of local shows. Did the first two stops of the Power Tour! Hung out with Andy and met a bunch of cool new people. Had a great time. First pics are porch project. These were only mock ups. I've done the final paint, repainted the door, stained/sealed the decking, and installed new lattice. Next ones are the 50th. Last is the Hot Rod Power tour. |
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I decided that while on the power tour, not having OD sucked, even with a 2.8 rear in the car. I averaged 17.5mpg, which was awesome though! The C10 has had a 700R since 2002 and I've been spoiled by it.
My C4 had been acting up a bit, but I decided to make the run anyway. The C4 would sometimes pause 3-5 seconds before shifting into 1st or R on a cold start, once warm, trans was fine. Then on the way to TN on Sunday it held 2nd gear for a REALLY long time before it would upshift into 3rd, like 10 minutes. I could get it to bump up to 3rd but it would immediately drop right down into 2nd. After those first 10 minutes she ran the next several hundred miles great. Then came Monday morning. I had said goodbye to the group I was traveling with, then chilled in the room for a bit longer, it was only a 3.5 hour drive home... then I get in the car and it takes a minute to shift into R. Crap. Then it takes just as long to go into 1st. Oh son of a snow donkey... Take her out on the road, holds 2nd gear a long *** time again, except this time it's clearly slipping when trying to go into 3rd. Fluid levels were checked repeatedly, all was good, but there was a slight toasty smell Finally, after some coaxing, and babying it shifted to 3rd and stayed there. I decided to make the run home, although, in retrospect that was a horrible idea. The drive home was 40 East and 25 South... roads that are very mountainous, with sharp bends you can't see around, and very very very few exits. Great place to break down. Nope. She made it home. After going back in forth in my head for the 4 hours it took to get home, I decided I'd much rather have a T-5 than AOD. I was home by 13:30PM, and I rarely ever take days off... so I did some quick research and headed to the local LKQ and came home with a 1997 1352-238 V6 Tremec (0.73:1 OD). Someone already snaked the shifter, but I've read the aftermarket are better anyway. I didn't have a swivel socket go get the bell housing, I know I need it, the shield, starter, clutch fork, and clutch cable. I'll go back on Friday or Saturday to get it. Hopefully it's still there, but not many people want a 3.8 bell housing and there were 2 more bell housings there without the trans as well. They had a 95 5 spd GT, entire drive train was long gone, and 4 or 5 SN-95 V6 5spds, but all were gone but this one. I only had time and tools to get the trans off (was only planning on looking) but noticing people grabbed them as soon as they came in I had to pull it. So there it is. At least a year sooner than I wanted to mess with it... I put the car on ramps last night, it took a good 5 minutes for the trans to decide it wanted to go in gear... and it smelled really burnt... Can't believe I made it home! |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
very nice
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Tore up the 'ole check book today... should have parts arriving from about 10 different places by this weekend... a little more $ than I had planned, but still less than a new rebuilt AOD would have cost, but about twice what it would have cost to have my C4 rebuilt, but who wants that? I mean, come on, 3 pedals AND overdrive?
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
woohooO!
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
We have like the same toys now... 67/68 steppers, and first gen mustang coupes :lol:
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Pulled this steaming pile tonight... Not fun. Was a lot of work, but it all came apart pretty easy.
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
looks pretty good to me.. :) Good Job man
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Yeah... I need to clean that corner... it's got all the porch leftovers as well as the trans and front suspension rebuild left overs.
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It fits!
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
I wish! I had to drop the exhaust to get it in. I was afraid to move it back up, I was just happy it was finally in. I'm sick of buying parts twice. I was warned some of the aftermarket shifters would need the stock hole enlarged... I was really hoping I wouldn't have to... but I'll have to enlarge the shifter hole. Boooo.
So far the 1998 (last year before electronic speedometer) 3.8L V6 T5 fits! So many people said you couldn't use the 94-98 V6 T5s (but after much research they're no different than the 94-95 GT T5s, even use the same rebuild kit). With this trans, you need everything, trans, bell housing, starter, engine plate all off the donor car, and a 164 tooth 28oz imbalance flywheel. The flywheel is the important part. The stock flywheels are 157 tooth 28 oz imbalance flywheel, while the 94-98 V6 uses a 164T 50 oz imbalance. Luckily, Ford made a 164T 28oz flywheel after they swapped the mustangs to the 50oz. The whole reason for that is that the 94-95 GT and 94-98 V6's have an input shaft that's about 3/4" longer than the previous generations. The GT's use the 157T flywheel while the V6 used the 164T. You can use the V6 tans with a 94-95 GT bell housing if you want to reuse your original starter and a stock 65/66 mustang 167T flywheel, but those bell housings are getting harder to find. The starter is physically located in a different spot on each bell housing, hence the need for using the correct bell/flywheel combo. |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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Thats awesome....One day maybe ill be able to figure that all out...When my 3 speed blows up that is lol |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
You've got it MUCH easier! For you, make sure you use a pre 1994 GT or 5.0L World Class T5 (they have the shorter input shaft that's the same as your 3 speed) and you can reuse your stock flywheel, clutch, bell housing, Z-bar, etc. All you need is the trans, a custom T5 trans mount ~$100, and a C4 mounting pad, and possibly shorten your DS, depends on the car.
I had to spend $360 on a clutch/cable kit (included clutch pedal with cable cam welded on it.) If my car was already a manual, I would have saved like $600 and a crap load of time. I'll be lucky if it's done by late July. |
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Got a little bit of disappointing news today... the motor in my car is not original to the car, nor it is even a 289. The block info is above the starter, so the only way to see it is to remove the starter. The block is a D10E-6015-AA which translates to:
D = 1970 1 = 1 (which makes it 1971) O = Torino/Fairlane E = Engine 6015 = engine block AA = 302 So poo. The block has a "Remanufactured by Ford" logo on the side, I was kind of hoping it was the original motor. Whomever rebuilt it put all the original 289 stuff back on it though as it has a lot of the "early" (pre April 1965, which is what this car would have come with) parts. They even reinstalled the plate on the intake that states the motor build date was March 1965. This probably means the motor has a little more power than I initially thought, but probably not by much. I'll have to research it. The good news is I pulled the pan and replaced the rear main seal. I hope I did it right. Watched a couple of videos and used my Ford engine book. I can still see cross hatching in the cylinder walls and the crank specs are 0.004 to 0.010 for movement, mine is right at 0.005. So that's great too. The motor leaks because all the seals dried out... likely from too much sitting. When I pulled the rear main it was so brittle it just crumbled apart as I pulled it out. So, the rear main is replaced and a new gasket for the oil pan. |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
T5 is fully mocked up. It appears everything fit... kind of.
Apparently the internetz was wrong. I could NOT use the 98 mustang's 3.8L starter. When I mocked it up I noticed it was fully engaged... not good. Did lots of research... apparently, THE ONLY starter that will work with the 3.8L bellhousing and 28oz 164T flywheel is a 1992-1994 F150 or Bronco (or full size van) 5.0L starter with a MANUAL transmission... yeah, that's a needle in the junkyard haystack. Went to 3 yards today, not only did I not see a SINGLE Bronco, there was only ONE F150 that fit the description and it's starter was gone... so I had to buy a $110 new one :( But it appears to fit correctly! Correct starter (92-96 F150 5.0L 5spd): http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...23S/4/image/3/ Wrong starter (94-98 Mustang 3.8L 5spd): (notice the gear sticking out, the 3.8's must have their crank/flywheel set farther back in the block) http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...05S/4/image/3/ |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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T5 in. Everything looks good now. Aftermarket trans mount is meant for T5 conversions. Should be able to take it all apart now for trans rebuild.
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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I've read the stock T5 shifters are very sloppy and can actually lead to premature wear of the transmission, so I bought an aftermarket short throw shifter... which came with this pile of crap fast and furious shifter??? Ummmmm... no... :lol:
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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So... I was saving this for my Firebird project.. but yea, I don't want to wait another 10 years to use it, so BOOM!!! Original Hurst Shifter. My dad says it's from the 70's (he was the one that originally bought it.) I guess it goes with my freakin' 1971 302! :lol:
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Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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It's been a while... time for an update!
So I rebuilt the trans. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used the video from Hanlon Motorsports, I also used it as an excuse to buy a press I've been wanting to get forever. It was definitely needed, I had to press on and off 4 bearings and a race into the trans case. I watched the video right on a laptop 2' from where I was rebuilding the trans... I rewound and let it play so many times I have some of it memorized :lol: I also had a hassle with my "cheap" flywheel. It was $120, then I had to pay another $110 to have dowel pins installed, then I though I had a terrible vibration, but it was just the trans mount touching the trans. It was cleaned up then sprayed with brake clean before the clutch and pressure plate went on! |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
glad your up and working :)
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The case was pretty dirty. It took a couple hours with some cleaners and a PRESSURE WASHER to get it clean... It was a lot worse than it looked.
I got the Ford Racing rebuild kit from Summit... that didn't come in any "ford racing" packaging... I think I might have gotten the cheap aftermarket kit and I paid the $$$ for the expensive one... maybe I got the right one... don't know... Anyway, here's the trans apart. Good thing I had the video!!! |
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This little booger was a pain. I lost the ball bearing that holds the 1-2 slider sleeve in place. Spent a couple hours looking for it, then twice that amount of time trying to find a replacement anywhere! I ended up getting a replacement 3/16" chrome steel ball from a bike shop.
I literally wasted/lost a week because of that ball. After that I rebuilt the main shaft assembly. |
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Then I got to put it all back in!
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The teeth in this trans were in excellent shape... all but the 1-2 slider and reverse idler gear (they ride on each other). They got a little chewed up, so I replaced those with new ones.
Overall the gears all looked as good as this one. I wasn't able to get the mileage on this trans, as someone had already taken the dash out of the car (this must have been a common issue or something, as almost every SN-95 I looked in was missing the dash?) My guess is that it had as least 150K on it. |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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Main shaft in.
...and hanging off the back is the ever important 0.72:1 5th gear. The 94-04 V-6 cars came standard with a 2.73 rear gear and "less" overdrive than the V8's which came with a 0.67:1 OD, but steeper rear gear sets. Since my car has a 2.80 rear end, similar horsepower to the V6, and almost a spot on match for tire diameter, using the V6's speedometer gears should be very close to correct (I checked with an online calculator and needed a 17.6 something tooth gear, and I have an 18, so it's going to be as close as I can get it.) |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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This was weird. This part differed from the video, so I'm glad I kept parts in order. The thing sticking out in the pic above has to go into the slot in the case. This was added to the newer trans to keep people from grinding the car into R.
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The trans also had a broken shift fork. So, I had to disassemble the forks as well and install a new one. When the pads get worn, they fall off, and the forks tend to get broken.
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My favorite part was seeing it done... then taking it apart again :haha:
That's right, I tested the shift pattern and it would not go into 1st. It was 2am so I quit for the night, the next morning I pulled the cover to realize, that even though I was very aware that the forks needed to go in the middle slots of the 1-2 and 3-4 sliders I still somehow missed the 1-2 fork and it ended up outside the slider. It only cost me about an hour and a little silicone. |
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...and another little FU to Ford for making these cars so damn difficult to work on (compared to other vehicles of the era) I put a square body S10 shift knob on my early 80's Hurst shifter. Perfect fit, it has the same 3/8-16 pattern... so if you need a 5 speed shift ball for a hurst shifter and don't want to pay $30-40 for a "new" one... hit up a pick n pull for square body S10s. The newer 94+ ones don't fit, bigger thread pattern.
I also found a dust boot for the shifter that fits perfect off a Nissan something or other... |
Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
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Shoved under the car.
Not fun when you're by yourself and the damn car is too low and there's no room to get a jack under the trans or room to lift it... I ended up wedging it in between the exhaust, then got a jack under it to get it up in place :metal: |
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I also wanted to keep a somewhat stock look inside the car, so I had to cut the crap out of the stock style stuff so it fit.
The metal in the first pic was the same size as the rubber (I cut the rubber down too...) The rubber and boot had to be removed from the metal, then reglued. Then I had to trim the bezel. The old Hurst shifter was looking a little rough with some pits to I scuffed it up really good, hit it with some high build primer a couple times, then knocked it down. I think it looks cool :cool: I have new carpet for the car too, the old one was a little ratty looking, so I just cut it out when I was doing the pedals/firewall pad. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyPY...GrFMZ_bNfBmY2A Also, in the first video I lost a manifold bolt, so the exhaust was loud. Turns out it was just the trans just barely touching the trans mount. I had to removed the exhaust (for the 4th time) to clearance it. Video of car driving/working! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrWq...fBmY2A&index=1 The exhaust was also a little loud/tickey in this video because I just snugged up everything for a test drive, I wasn't going to tighten it all back down good if I had to remove the damn exhaust again! No more loud exhaust or ticks. I'll make another video when the interior is done. |
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So, the car had just a few leaks... which coated the ever loving crap out of the entire trans tunnel. The oil and trans fluid reacted with the cheap rubberized undercoating turning it into a black sticky goo. I spent damn near 2 days on my back cleaning that goop off.
I was shocked to find the original red oxide coating used on the car from the factory. The trans was the biggest leak offender. I fixed the leaking rear main... so hopefully no more nasty leaks. This was the only patch on the floor of the ENTIRE car. They did the half ass 1" overlap fix, so I tried to blend it in a little better with some seam sealer. You never find Mustangs this clean! |
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This was neat, I had to have my drive shaft shortened about an inch, so I took it to Carolina Drive Line (highly recommend them). Before I took it I cleaned all of the gunk off of it and found the factory paint marks.
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