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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Wow, I'm down for the rest of this one. You are a metal working madman Vic!
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Where you grip the metal is important. The closer to the bent edge, the less "action" there is on the metal. The further away causes the metal to move more, but can result in tearing or wrinkling. Next post I'll show the results. |
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When you shrink the metal, it causes the ends to bow inward toward the tool and when you stretch it, the ends move away from the tool. In the two top photos, I achieved the result by pressing down on the handle with moderate force in three places about 1/4" apart. It takes a bit of experience to judge how much force to use, how far apart to move the material and how close to the edge to place it between strokes. The good thing is, if you go a bit too far, you can shrink an overstretched section and bring it back where it needs to be.
As I worked the piece I added to the cowl, I kept test fitting it to the line I'd previously drawn. Doing a Z-shaped piece of material requires a bit more patience as you have to stretch one edge slightly and then shrink the corresponding area on the opposite edge. If you don't do them evenly, the piece will end up with some "twist" in it. Again, you can fix this by gently removing a small amount of the shrinkage or stretch from the appropriate edge. It's normal to have some small wrinkles when shrinking sheetmetal. Also, if you're stretching a fairly wide edge and are trying to do a tight curve, you may see some splits in the metal before you're done. It will only stretch so far. I carefully dolly out any wrinkles once I have the shape I want. I have individual tools because I don't like to take the time to swap out the dies, but if you're on a budget, I believe you can buy one tool and two sets of dies. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thanks Vic! that makes sense. I've never actually seen this process done or explained. I have to assume it has a handle at the top that is similar to an arbor press and pulling that does the business?
I have to get some of these tools. Super cool! |
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Patched up a few more holes and finished the lip on the cowl today. I recently acquired a tool off eBay described as a jeweler's coin punch. Unlike a Greenlee punch that requires a hole thru the material to draw the cutter into a recess, the coin punch makes a round "coin" without the hole. I wanted to close the holes the windshield washer hose originally routed thru. I drilled them out to 1/2" using a Unibit and then lightly pressed a 1/2" round coin into the hole. When welded out, it makes a nice neat patch. For small holes, it's probably overkill. You could lay a copper backing strip behind the hole and MIG it, but that wouldn't be nearly as much fun.
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There was also an ugly big hole in the cowl on the driver side that needed a patch. I opened it up some more and made a paper template then cut the patch out of some 18 ga. Drilled a couple of holes into it so that after welding the perimeter I could "spotweld" it to the support behind it.
With the lip pretty much complete, next steps will be to clamp the firewall into place temporarily, modify and mount the map lights, fish the wiring for the lights and dash cam thru the A-pillar then glue the roof on. Doesn't sound like much when you say it fast. |
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Nice progress Vic! That jewelers coin punch looks cool. How does it work? Do you slip a piece of sheet metal between the two pieces and use a BFH to drive the punch through it or is it more sophisticated than that? I also appreciate the explanation of the shrinker/stretcher combo and how you made the z panel. Very cool.
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The tool is actually meant for soft materials like aluminum, copper, silver and etc. You're correct that you slip the material in the thin slot, position it where you want the hole and if it's soft material, a BFH works great. They don't recommend using it on steel, but so far, it's worked great. I use a light coat of oil on the sheet metal and set everything up in my press. It pushes the punch right thru the metal and then I use a rawhide hammer to tap the coin and the punch out the other side. Only reason I do it this way is I was afraid it might hose up the punch if it caught an edge. Pushing it thru with the press seems to allow it to find its way. |
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Really nice work, Vic. Now I want one of those coin punches! That would have saved me a TON of time over the years. Can't wait for the next installment!
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Burned way more time than I planned on the map lights. The original setup had both a slide and a rotary switch right in the middle. Couldn't have that, so I sectioned the housing and the lens to get rid of those parts. Once I had some dimensions, I cut the opening in the inner roof panel to accommodate the revised light assembly. The glue's curing right now, so it will be tomorrow before I know how much I have to massage everything to get it to fit. |
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I'm a little surprised you didn't cut off the outter lip of the plastic assembly and mill a new trim bezel out of aluminum with a center seperation strip to cover up the spit in the lense which would also work to secure both halves.
It's not too late to do it! :devil: |
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. . . But probably not. ;) |
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Now you're just yankin' him, Brian! Please continue. Muahaha!
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Them shocks flat work, don't they? Big improvement. I may take you up on making some coins, man that'd make life easier!
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Very nice progress on the cowl. I have a set of those same type punches somewhere. I used them mostly for cutting plastic shim stock in my former life as a toolmaker. I need to see if I can find them. Haven't used them in 10+ years
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The thing is I always have big ideas and Vic just happens to have the skills to make it a reality so I figure why not toss it out there into the Vicverse and see what happens. :devil: His idea to sand and paint the plastic bezel will look good too. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I know, Vic oughta open up a home for wayward dirtbag hotrodders. My wife would drop me of and leave me. I was lookin' at Tennsmith brakes yesterday just because I had so much fun playing with Vic's! He's a bad influence!
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Vic,
I know you just put some thermal heat barrier on your inner roof, but I have some "Industrial" insulation you might think about placing on top of that..... it's about 1/2" thick and is like a heavy fiberglass mat, we use it for insulating blankets on steam pipes,etc.....let me know if you would like a small sheet of it..... Have a good one! Ben |
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I dunno about the dirtbag part though I'm not sure I understand the sentiment but I don't want to put too fine a point on it, I'm sure you will occasionaly run into an unsavory person or two but I have met a lot of good people on the board so far. I will agree with you that people like Vic with all his knowledge and skill have a tendancy to attract a hotrodder or two. |
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Woo Woo! Roof install! I wanna see details on the dent work in the cab back, and pick up some pointers. That was a PITA on Yeller, but a good learning experience.
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I had every intention of gluing the roof on this weekend, even to the point I made a special trip to pick up the 3M applicator gun. Was not to be. After fishing the wires up thru the A-pillar, it dawned on me I'd neglected to order the a/v cable that feeds live or stored video to the 7" touchscreen I'll be installing in place of the original radio. Will see if they have one at Best Buy tonight, but if not, I'll order it from Amazon. When it arrives, I can continue on.
To fill the hole in the schedule, I worked on the map lights some more and got them fit into the opening to suit me. Also machined the little T-strip that fits in the gap between the lenses. |
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Here's a closer look at the T-strip. Had to curve it slightly with the shrinker to get it to fit the lenses.
Had some time left, so I went ahead and windowed the radio grille and the dash where the new Pioneer stereo will reside. Made a plate to fit the grille but welding will be for another day. |
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You know this is gonna turn out cooler than the Streak, just less shiny to deal with. I'm just sayin. Please continue, this is great!
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I never did like the way chevrolet did the ashtray it just looks crude, so I can't wait to see the center of the dash reworked it's going to be a monster improvement over stock.
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Very nice work on the dash detail. Love all the creative mods you are making.
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My brother is in town and we're in full-on home remodeling mode. Adding stairs down from the deck and other stuff Kathy has been wanting to get done. Long story short, haven't had much time to work on the truck, but I did get the 2DIN radio opening and bracket spotwelded in place. Also finished up the map lights. Still waiting on the cable I need to button up the roof. Hopefully it will be here today or tomorrow.
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That map light turned out great Vic!
Oh man I'm salivating over that Pioneer head unit it is going to look killer installed. |
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Vic,
could you give me the dimensions of that Double Din stereo sleeve the head unit mounts into? I really like that idea as well. (not trying to steal your thunder, or anything like that:metal:) you da man! Great Work too! Ben Smith |
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