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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
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Wanted to try to get my alignment a little closer before it gets on the alignment rack. I used a framing square, but couldn't put it against the tireat the bottom due to the buldge. Left front was leaning out at the top. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24015.jpg Right front leaning in. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24017.jpg I don't know how to measure caster, but could measure wheel base and get it close. Instead I just set the toe. I wrapped a string around all 4 tires. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24020.jpg I made some toe plates so the tires could move freely. I just used two pieces of metal with grease in between. It does a good job. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24023.jpg i made sure the pitman arm was parallel to the frame. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24021.jpg With all that done the steering wheel was 180 out. I can't just remove the wheel and reposition because the horn button has a fixed contact that fits in a hole in the steering wheel.. I need to undo the shaft and spin 180. I'm not sure if I can do something with that horn contact. I still have spin the wheel 180. The column came out of a late 70's or later truck. Here are the shims after all this. I know the adjustment is there for a reason, but is this acceptable? I guess the alignment machine might change all of this. This is the right side. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24026.jpg The left. http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2-03-24025.jpg |
Re: Project Vitamin C-10
Lookin good! I can't answer your questions on the alignment, but if you can't watch the guys aligning it, then be sure to double check their work. I took my truck to a reputable alignment shop when it was on the road before, and when I got home I could pull the shims out by hand, they didn't tighten the nuts back! But I would imagine you wouldn't just drop her off right?
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I just wanted it closer so I wouldn't be up there forever. |
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yeah, sorry i can't help with the alignment...maybe someone else will chime in though....on a side note, does it ever bother you to see digital close-up photos that show dirt/dust/water spots/etc. on something you thought was clean?...to the human eye it looks awesome; then you take a picture, and voila! for some reason, your pics made me think of that :lol:
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Very happy to see you on the road with your truck. I can still remember that day with my Suburban, even though it was nearly 20 years ago.
I may have missed it, but have you been able to save that hood? |
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You have done amazing work
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That's normal for the shims to be that much different from side to side. That's a good idea with the string around all the tires to get your toe close. A good alignment machine, and tech will set the alignment to the centerline or, called thrust angle of the truck. A 4 wheel alignment is a must. Your rear axle has to be square with the center line first, then adjust the front caster, camber then the toe. If your rear axle isn't correct the truck will crab, and that will make your steering wheel off also, plus will ware your front tires because you will be compensating the steering wheel to go straight. That means when you turn the steering wheel your front alignment will be out of specs. I hope I didn't confuse you. :uhmk::lol:
After the alignment is done and your steering wheel is still 180 out, turn the shaft at the rag joint, then you might have to go back and set the toe for the minor steering wheel adjustment. I hope this helps you understand how an alignment should be done. I've been doing alignments with the best alignment equipment out there since 1970. I also sold and trained techs after they bought alignment machines when I worked for Snap-On. :metal: http://www.wheelquick.co.uk/images/alignment.jpg |
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Progress is looking great Alan! Bet you had a grin you couldn't wipe off all day! I got to put about 100 miles the blue '65 yesterday going to a photoshoot and it was awesome, first time I've really got much "seat time" in a C10.
Have you seen the "2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments" thread over in the supension forum? There's some great info in there about better-than-stock alignment settings. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487363 |
Re: Project Vitamin C-10
alan glad you got the oil pan fixed! thats what i tought it might have been! about a month ago we had to cut the baffle out of a oil pan on my friends dads 69 ford truck had a 390 in it took it to a shop to have then rebuild it and they put a car oil pan back on it, sounded the same as yours was sounding! love the picture at the gas station, let us know hows the hood coming, good luck with the alignment!!
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I'll check out the thread thanks for the comments and headsup on the thread. Quote:
I finished blocking the hood with 120 then guide coated it and blocked again with 180. Then primed again. I also took a pic of the column where the wheel goes. Am I gonna have problems getting an aftermarket wheel and adapter for this? I'm not exactly sure what it came out of. It had a key on the column, but I eliminated it. The guy I got it from said it came out of a truck. I guess 80's. |
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hood is looking great, i always did like the gmc hood though. and i loved the way your pastor used your truck in his message, that was really cool, mine used my 72 4x4 in one of his one time. he described how rusty and bent the body was but once i got the body off how nice the frame was and what a great foundation it was, just as jesus is the corner stone of our foundation, i thought it was kinda neat as well.
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As soon as I saw a GMC hood I knew I had to have one. ;) I thought I had a plan to copy the holes on a template and mark the holes on my doors. I can still use it, but not it the way I wanted. I got some contact paper (3M weld deflection paper) and stuck it starting at the crease on the door. I also cut the paper to the edge of the door. I figured that would be a good referrance point. Once I stuck it on my truck they were 1/4" too high to the holes in the cab corner. Maybe the kit will come with a template, I hope. I guess I will be pulling a string to get the top rail straight. |
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The hood looks real good Alan :thumbs:
I have grown to like the GMC hoods as well. I acquired one, but it needs quite a bit of work. At least it was free. |
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Yep, love the hood and a great build !!
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I told myself I wouldn't post anything else til I got my hood on. Well that didn't last long. It's still not done, might go to work tomorrow (sat) and work on it. Tonight I broke out the laser to see if I could get a good line down the side of the truck to mark the center where the holes need to be drilled. I got my mouldings today. i haven't even opened them yet. I'm afraid once I do I'll just drill the holes and not paint between the trim. Once I found center I was able to use my template from the old door. I saw some where the layout for the holes from a FSM, anybody have that link handy? With the laser the factory holes in the bed don't even line up. One hole bottom will be lined up with the lazer and the next one the top of the hole will line up with it. The red pic is a pic thru the glasses that came with the lazer. I also picked up a head unit. |
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Alan when you get yours drilled and everything works out good for you, come on to the shop and do mine ;)
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Drilling those holes looks scary. Good luck. One question though, why didn't you drill the holes before you painted it? I would leave it like it is. Just my 2 cents. ;)
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those levels are handy, I used one to get the top line straight on my 60 build.
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The idea of drilling into that awsome paint job would have me a nervous wreck, but looking at what you've done so far I'm sure you'll do a great job.
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Spent 7 hours today priming, repairing, priming and painting the bottom of the hood. It's still has a few pings in it, but might not be noticeable once mounted. I might go back and paint the top tomorrow. I've got 3 weeks to get it ready for our 3rd annual board get together "Chewin' the Fat" and cruise afterwards. |
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Looks great Alan. :metal:
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Other than spraying the hood I got the wipers working (thanks ray_mcavoy ). It was driving me crazy I couldn't get the wipers to work when installed in the truck. I had the switch out of the dash making it easier to test. I needed to ground the switch. Why didn't I think of that? I also got the front turn signals put together. Going with a clear lense and amber bulb. |
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Those things are shinny. :uhmk:
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What I got done today http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/0271521b.jpg http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...2/0bafe367.jpg Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device |
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Doing good.Alan:metal:.If you want some more practice, come on down and shoot my 70 ;)
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Another Fab job Alan. I soooo wish we did not live so far apart. I want to lay eyes on this truck bad! One of these days.
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LOVE IT :metal:
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Awesome! Congrats to laying some paint on that hood! Keep it up, you are getting there!
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I see you been really busy, Hood looks great, glad to see you got the noise in the engine fixed.
Looking forward to seeing it at the BBQ |
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that looks great, very glad that you got the hood back in shape, cant wait to see it on the truck.
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I like the hood being painted the same color on both sides, those parking lights are going to look really good.Make sure you get a pick at chew n the fat.
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Awesome work, now bolt that sucker on.
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Alan I was wondering how many hours you have into welding up that seam and bodywork on the hood.
Best looking gmc hood I've seen yet! |
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Not a good day as far as progress. I sanded the hood and put 3 coats of clear on it. It slicked out nice, but as it dried it died back. (2nd pic) I don't understand why it happens and have heard different stories why. I've never had it happen to me until now. I was hoping to bolt it on soon. i will either buff it or sand and clear. Repainting will be faster unless it happens again. Outside in the sun you can't see the die back cause it's so bright.
I also took the truck for another 7 mile journey. It was half way warmed up and started to pull up a small hill and it started popping thru the exhaust. It's more of a crack sound. I turned around and went to the house. It never did it again. So i went back out and continued the trip. The crack/pop sound when not warmed up is confussing me. Ronnie has suggested try a different carb. I also got the peep mirrors and installed tonight. |
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Your paint might be looking different due to differences in temperature and weather conditions from when the other paint was done. Also, your popping/cracking problem, what carburetor do you have on it now? It could be your issue. What are you running for your fuel pump? I would just check over everything and also check your filters and inlets to your carb, as I have seen things restrict fuel flow after new trucks/cars are put together (from cutting lines, etc.). Good luck with sorting out your paint and the popping issue with the engine.
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I'm running a Eldebrock 1406 or 1407, which ever is the 750. |
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I don't see what your talking about in the second picture. What's died back? Your popping can be an exhaust leak when cold, combined with a lean carb. Isn't a 750 carb too big for a 400ci though? Is it popping on decel, or acceleration? Other possibilities could be a sticking exhaust valve, or ignition problem. Not sayin that I know it all, but just giving you some ideas. ;)
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Quick paint question: When you say, "sanded and cleared" do you mean you sanded the base coat before spraying clear to flatten it or you were out of the recoat window for your base since you cleared it the next day, so you had to sand for the clear to stick?
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