Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Gorgeous man, pure jewelry.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

You do some great work. I love your attention to the smallest details.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Man, that gauge cluster turned out AWESOME! You are a true pro at what you do, and donating that air gauge overlay was my pleasure. I knew it was going to a good home.....

I always look forward to your progress!

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Thanks dude!!

Thanks alot!!

I appreciate that, and thanks again for the decal!! I'm definitely not a pro, just trying to do my best at whatever I'm doing.



Tonight I worked on getting the steering wheel sanded and ready for a couple coats of surfacer, and also started on grooving the wheel for the chrome rings. I've got one ring in it, just got to finish the other one and it'll be ready to prime and paint. The column parts will get prepped next so they can be painted the same time the wheel. That way all everything for the column will be finished and ready to install when that time comes.


Amazingly enough, the wheel sanded out nearly perfectly the first time with only four small pinholes to spot fix. I figured it would have taken atleast a couple rounds of priming and sanding to get it ready for surfacer.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/3145a3c0.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/a3ccb481.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/6aba883a.jpg


I taped some string across the wheel to get an idea of where the top center was, then laid out fine line tape to make guide lines for the grooves. I've still got to slightly round the edges of the grooves so they're not so sharp, and also make sure there's clearance for the primer and paint, but it's a start.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/fa079654.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/f074efee.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/4608ff24.jpg

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Now that I've got a transmission, I stuck the engine block and T56 together and set them in the frame to get an idea of how much room I'll have for the front X braces. I'm going to talk to a local fab shop about making a tube sleeve around the mid/tail section out of 1/8 plate for the center section of the front X braces. I'm thinking it'll need to be made in two halves, upper and lower so the trans can be dropped out if needed. The tube will let me run the front legs of the X braces farther to the front of the frame rails so any twisting will be more effectively transferred from corner to corner, instead of the frame twisting. The tube shape will also take any torsional loads without twisting or deforming.


http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/67f1f5bf.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/1d50125b.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/af526c96.jpg


Here's the rough drawing that I originally come up with showing the tube design. As long as the T56 is, the tube will need to be moved up around the transmission compared to where it is in the drawing.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Xmember-1.jpg
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

I've been thinking about the interior of the truck ever since I started working on the column, wheel and gauges. I'm kind of torn between fully redoing the interior, or just cleaning the original paint and seat and leaving it as is. As mentioned in the start of the thread, there is some rust in the kick panel area so I'll already be doing some metal/body/paint work inside the cab. I also want to add sound deadener under the floor of the cab, so I'll be sandblasting already as well. I'm gunna have a hard time replicating the texture of the dash board, which kinds makes me want to leave it alone. The fawn paint is badly stained though from the original owner smoking in it for so many years. The original seat is in great shape, but isn't quite nice enough to fit in with new paint. It's at the point where it isn't quite as nice as the outside if the truck, so I'm leaning more towards completely redoing everything inside. I really really love the way the interior in the blue '65 I restored turned out- it's probably my favorite part of the whole truck, and it would be awesome to have Goldilocks lookin that good inside. What are you guys thinking? Should I leave it original and just super clean/detail what's there, or go full tilt resto on it?

Here's a pic of the '65s interior.

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...toshoot009.jpg
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

that's a tough call...but if the outside is staying original, i think i'd try hard to keep the inside original...maybe you can fauxtina any areas that are showing after fixing rusty areas...i really like a clean interior, and i've seen a couple nice examples of redone interior with original outside...but at the same time, i think it takes away a little bit of the truck's character

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Just found this thread, nice work!!

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

After following both of your threads for some time now, I don't think you'll ever be satisfied with the interior anything but fully restored and I say go for it. Make it right. Besides, then I get to watch as you work your magic that much more.
:metal::metal:

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

After looking back at the entire build thred, I would leave the original interior paint and just fix the spots that have rusted through. Its only original once.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Hate to say but I agree.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

i agree too, with the work with the steering wheel, the floor patch and the gauge cluster, might as well paint it!

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

resto it. Dunn... now get to work... :-)

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

I am aboard

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Well, that's the thing; the outside has been repainted in the past (late 70's/early 80's?) so it's not really original, just old enough to become worn and patina'd again.



Thanks!



I think you're right, I probably wouldn't be happy with it later on, and I'd always kick myself for not doing it while it was apart and easy to do. But, parts of it (like the seat) make me want to keep it original.



It is original inside, but the paint is pretty badly stained and I don't know how it will clean up yet. I'll try to clean it up and see what it looks like before I make a final decision, but I'm leaning towards redoing it.



:lol:



Those parts would kinda look out of place against the old paint.



Gotta finish the frame first... just thinking out loud and getting yall's opinions right now. Although you're welcome to come down and get a head start on it anytime you want! :lol:



Awesome!!

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Made new "OVER SPEED" and "TAND'M LOCK" warning light lenses.


http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/04ca1421.jpg

http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...t/0cdd197d.jpg



Another question for the ones following the build.

I'm second guessing my decison to build the 250 six. I signed up on an Inline 6 forum and asked those guys what they thought about the plans I had for the engine. They didn't think it would be reliable or streetable at the 350-375 hp range it would take to get the truck into the 13's. It also wouldn't be cheap, especially considering the lowish power it would make if it was detuned to be driveable. I'd be looking at around 275-300 hp for it to be driveable and reliable, and woudn't be enough power to get the truck into the 13's like I want.

The other engine I had thought about was a 4200 Vortec inline 6 that makes 290 hp stock and is all aluminum so it wouldn't weigh much. The drawbacks are, no flywheels are readily avaiable, the T56 won't bolt up, the stock oilpan won't work in the truck, and no cams are available. Other than adding a turbo, there isn't much you can do to add power.

The third option, and the one I'm leaning toward, is an aluminum block 5.3 LS engine destroked to 4.8 using a 4.8 crank with forged rods and pistons. A stock 5.3 is around 310 horsepower. The smaller displacement would get better mileage, the crank would be stronger due to more rod journal overlap, and it woudn't need a radical set of heads to make power at high rpms. I'd like it to make power to 7500 rpm and redline around 8500. I'd use an individual runner intake manifold with four 2-barrel Dellorto carbs (I really like those carbs and IR intakes if you hadn't noticed :lol:) which would make the engine's operating range wider with more average horsepower and torque. The runners are isolated from reversion in other intake tracts so there's a ton more low end torque and driveability. That would be ideal for autocrossing since shifting kills time, and a wider operating range and more average hp/tq would help a ton since it'll be stuck in one gear while making a run. It would be cheaper than building the 250, weigh less, get better mileage, and make a ton more power. A stock 5.3 engine will pick up almost 100 hp just doing a cam and spring swap. Even destroked, it should make atleast 450 hp and be cheaper to build than the 250 six. The drawback is that my current LT1 T56 woudn't work, but it's easy enough to find a LS1 style T56.

Thoughts?

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

I really wanted to see the six in the truck too, mainly because I didn't want a cookie cutter V8 though. Of course the destroked 5.3 with four dellorto's won't be anywhere near normal. I hadn't thought about the shift lights in the dash, I'll take the tandem lock out and swap it for a yellow "SHIFT" lens. I can put higher wattage bulbs in them and make the light tubes out of more reflective aluminum. Could hook the red over speed light to come on with the rev limiter. Great idea, thanks!!
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Nothing beats cubic dollars. A high horse power L6 would be cool but you have to work with in your budget and sometimes compromise.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

I'd still go with the six if it could be reliably built to around 350hp even if it cost more, but the guys on the inliners forum didn't think it would work. It wouldn't be much fun to drive with only 275 hp and the suspension and brakes to handle a good bit more. The V8 would be way more fun to drive and sound better too.
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Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Well then build the 6 like you want just because those other folks don't think it will work doesn't mean that it won't work case in point I built a 400 smblk with the stock cast crank that everyone said you can not turn it above 6grand and that it would not last well it was my daily driver and i use turn it 7200 and never had a problem so all the na sayers were wrong oh and this was in a 4x4 that also used for the street stock class truck pull 6500 pound sled.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

I have to agree with Duallyjams... build what you want, and tweak it to how you want it.
I wanted a "Sprint" engine for my Tempest, but they are getting harder and harder to find, so I had a stock 230 rebuilt into a Sprint. A $150 engine turned into a $3,000 rebuild. But it was what I wanted, and it will get it's first showing this summer.

Good luck on whatever you decide though, your process is immaculate and no doubt the end result will be well received no matter which path you take!

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

John-
I had some reservations about the 6 right from the start. In order for you to achieve your horsepower and E.T. goals, it was going to have to be a pretty radical 6 cylinder. Radical can oftentimes mean temperamental, and that's no fun. I really like the idea of a LS engine. Those things make great power, don't leak, and get great mileage when coupled with the right components. Don't overlook the 4.8, you can find those engines CHEAP, oftentimes 1/3rd the cost of a 5.3.

I like the old straight 6 engines, but when you were wanting to go 13:1 on compression, I got worried. Even with good gas, a slight error on the tune can lead to severe death rattle (detonation) and that'll waste the rod bearings in a hurry.

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

do what your heart tells you to do. it is your truck and your the one that is going to drive it. your the only one that really matters in this case. you cam always change it, unless you are an old fart and your days are numbered, then you have to do what you have to do to fulfill your dream . no matter how fast you go there will always be someone quicker tomorrow. it is the challenge. a lot of people do not get the challenge, do not understand it; just put in the newest and the bestest and join the club.
try your interior the way it is( clean it up); you may be happy with it. then again it will not be a major obstacle later to update it if you want to. life only comes around once.
“Ignorance is a powerful tool if applied at the right time, even usually surpassing knowledge.”
e.j.potter
ron

Re: Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build
 

Thanks guys, I've decided that I'm gunno go with the LS engine. The 250 would be extremely cool, but after getting more feedback from the inliner guys, it just doesn't seem feasible as a street engine. I'm looking for a L33 5.3 since they had aluminum blocks and cylinder head castings that are nearly identical to LS6 heads. I'll probably run it stock for awhile then build it later on. I want to get this thing running!

The LS will eventually be detailed like an original 283 or 327 would have been with painted block/heads/intake, stamped steel accessory brackets, hidden coils, I'll fab some "Chevrolet" script valve covers, cast iron headers, and the carbs will be gold phosphate plated with fake oil bath air filters.

I found another cheap T56 on craigslist that's from a LS1 Camaro for $700 bucks since the one I've got is from a LT1 car and wont work. MalibuKasey wants the LT1 T56 for his truck, so that worked out well for both of us. I've bought two T56's for about what one is going for on Ebay! The factory tach also won't work with the LS motor's higher redline, so I'll check into getting it silkscreened and the internals reworked to go to 10k rpm. I want it to read "0 2 4 6 8 10" instead of "0 1 2 3 4 5" with the original font style, colors, and layout.