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Re: '50 chevy 3100
the size depends on the weight it will need to hold. a small cleco canbend while still inserted in the hole. if welding anyway you could use a larger size.
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
Got windshield in. Had a couple of suction cup things. Pulled on those while pulling on the rope. Went much easier than last time. I used a tiny bottle of dawn and soaked up every little thing. Glass still needs a little maneuvering but it got dark and it's real close. I'll need to find a way to lube it all up in a couple of days. How's WD40? Nice little straw...
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
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Got some small stuff done yesterday. Drilled out a couple of broken bolts on radiator support and I messed with the lower steering column mount. The mount is great but covering the left over opening like where the shifter part went through didn't look good. So I made a template and cut out some sheet metal. Drilled a hole, overlapped the pieces just enough to use my new flanging tool on so they overlap. I mocked the cover up and it looked pretty clean and awesome!
When I secure it in place I'll post another pic. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
Got the new pieces around the lower column mount. Looks much nicer, a couple more bolts and a seal of some type is all I need now.
Got the patch I made on the door. Went slow and nothing is warped!! Still needs some touch up but I think I'll ask my buddy to spare some time and come by. |
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Couple pics to go with yesterday's stuff. Also had this little spring fall out of the door. What is it?
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
Could spring belong to the door latch handle?
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
That's a spring out of a window regulator
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
yep, window regulator. it's broke too.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-glass.671179/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1950-C...-/322056330144 |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
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I was looking those two parts up. Guess I'll see when I pull glass out tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and it's the latch spring.
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Looks like that spring was the door patch one. I understand why a lot of you buy new regulators... repaired driver side one. Took a long time. I forgot to get a couple of things. Do I have to use adhesive for the channel or could I use self tapping screws? What size of glass setting tape do I need for the window frame?
And what can I use to hold the frame pieces together? One side is good, other was undone, looks like that part would be in the channel. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
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Barrel bolts! And it turns out I added them to my big order a while back. Actually though they were screws for the top slide rail thingy.
So I fit driver side channel in place and took out passenger window. Had to drill out 3 of the 4 screws. Problem with driver channel. The metal piece it runs along in the door is not attached at the bottom. I can easily push it in place but it pops back. No missing screws that I could see, maybe a popped spot weld? How do I fix This? See last pic shot from bottom pointing up. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
I use adhesive, works great
that loose piece, if its at the back of the door there are two screws on the outside of the door that hold it. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
Hey Matt_50. The inside of the door (as you can see) is a rough space to work in. Check the out side of the door for any signs of a spot weld. If found, drill out spot weld then brace inside part in place and plug weld from outside. I hope that's what you were asking about.
Earl |
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Went out with flashlight. First pic shows no screws on outside. 2nd pic shows same spot on passenger door.
2nd pic is upside down. |
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Any ideas how to fix it. Found this pic, piece on right side.
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Matt_50. Could you reach in there through the access hole with a mig gun and put some tac welds in there? Would that be feasible?
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I don't think so.. and I couldn't see it either. Maybe I could make another access spot....
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
well if it were me I would use the fuze it stuff I use for everything else, just a little dab on the flange then clamp it with one of those metal clothespin looking things.
if you can get a battery screwdriver in there you could zap it with a pan head drill tip screw. there is no stress on that part, the window pushes it tight when it rolls down. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
Matt_50. I'd like to ask Joedoh a question about the fuze it stuff. What the name of that stuff. There have been several times where I could have used something like that. Thanks.
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Re: '50 chevy 3100
no problemo, its actually called liquid nails fuze-it. fuze anything to anything, sandable, paintable, very serious bonding properties. looks like mixed fusor, smells a little like it too.
https://www.liquidnails.com/products...form-statement the better your surface the better it works, but I wiped some excess on a rusted license plate and stuck a piece of clean metal to it, and you cant get them apart, it was tearing the rusted license plate. I use it as a seam sealer, as a firewall hole closer, to install window channels, I think I could stick a racoon to the garage door with this stuff. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
Thanks joedoh. That would be a bad day for the raccoon. We have a raccoon that thinks our little back yard goldfish pond is a buffet. He growled at me one night.
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I forgot about that stuff and I think I asked you about it once and everything! I was also thinking JB weld but I'll try that stuff first. I think I'll have to to a glob on my hand and reach in there, maybe wrap some clamps in plastic before I clamp it too... hate to have a clamp stuck in there. Do you use it as a seam sealer for inside AND outside the cab? I'll try to get some in the next day or two.
I painted the window frame and I have some waterproof silicone, adheres to metal, glass plastic, etc.. I'll get the windows set next. I'm worried about the roller channel. The new rollers I put on the regulator look like they would bump into the heads of the bolts that hold it to the window frame. Does the rollers go that far or should I find flatter head screws? Getting this sorta stuff done is pretty awesome. Feels like I'm getting more done lately. |
Re: '50 chevy 3100
yes i use it inside and out, works great
the stock screw heads are pretty tall in the roller channel, I say try it, it probably wont hit anything. |
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Ok, I stopped and grabbed some fuse it. I reached in the best I could and got some sandpaper on it and I had just glob it into my hand, reach up and glob it on best I could.
Found a scrap board that fit into the channel, slid it down in and wedged it in place. Put a clamp on it just a little tight, didn't want to bend my door lol. Carefully closed the door and it says 4 to 6 hours to cure. |
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It worked! Thanks joedoh! Today I replaced the rollers on passenger regulator and trimmed the channels to fit. Painted the other window frame and here in a bit I will set the glass in the frames and hopefully have nice clean operational windows tomorrow!
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