Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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TMI Classic Low back Buckets are here!! Damn, they are nice! Comfy and not tall! Here are some pics with measurements.
Note: I am not a small guy by any means (currently over 300lbs.. currently..) and this seat is perfect for me! I am working on getting smaller but i will always be just a bigger guy, so the seat width and depth i was nervous about, but it is great. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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more pics with measurements:
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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last....
And i was not aware that they came with adjustable sliders. i am sure it is in the description, but i just did not read that. This was a very pleasant surprise. Now the mounts for our trucks are back ordered to jan sometime, but i may just look at making my own. not sure yet. Overall, the seats are great, not cheap but under $1000.00 for the pair and i think that is good for TMI seats. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Damn those look nice!! If my truck didn't come with a freshly rebuilt/wrapped seat I would seriously be looking into those!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Love watching your build....Great job!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I agree with SCOTI to a point, the giant logo is really annoying and there should be an option to not have it but those seats are super comfy so it’s a pick your battles kinda deal. Great build so far, can’t wait to see it finished.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Marc |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Just a side note, the seat mounts just showed up, so i can do some test fitting now. Not sure how they will work. They seem a bit tall, but i will mount them and see. I can always alter the heights.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I want to say something here that is in no way directed at anyone who has previously responded to my build. In fact, to all of you, THANK YOU!! I appreciate all your comments and thoughts. The best part of all the comments is that they are all constructive and not mean or in evil spirit and I really appreciate all that! I honestly do, i even appreciate comments that maybe i do not agree with or like as long as they are done in a constructive manner. i have always said i learn so much more from my mistakes and failures. So I can appreciate others opinions and thoughts even if i differ in what i like to do. Just so there is no misunderstanding, this is not in response to the TMI seats thing, but rather to what i am about to talk about.
So i need seats installed in the cab so that i can figure out if i can do my next idea, which is to install a partial Rollcage in the cab that will exit the rear of the cab and mount in the bed. Now the idea here is to actually mount it to the frame, under the cab and under the bed, BUT make it removable. They make these couplers that are meant for Rollcages that i will use. I want to put a loop behind the seats with a crossbar to mount the seatbelt harness should straps to, then exit the cab and go to the bed and to the frame. This is my idea, not sure it will work, but it is my idea. So this is why i made the earlier statement. Some will not like the idea at all, not even in the slightest. Kinda like cutting a longbed into a shortbed, same people. I understand that my ideas are not everyones bag of tea, but to me, they are my ideas. I fully respect anyones ideology and thoughts and even invite constructive comments done in constructive way, i always appreciate them. BUT if you have nothing nice or constructive to say about this or anyones ideas, regardless of what it is, just keep it to yourself. I have had many responses to my build, and to date i appreciate everyone one of them, not matter what. But i know that i mentioned this idea when i was doing my 1969 C10 along with cutting it from a longbed to shortbed and i got bashed, bad. To be honest, not all were negative though, some where just saying what they thought and did so in a constructive way, and i really appreciated that, but damn, some where just wrong. So please just be constructive, and not just to me, but to all. Sorry for the long post here, i just know that this idea of the rollcage can bring out the not so nice posters... and i just want to say my peace. Please forgive me if i upset anyone, that is not my intention, only to try to help some look at how they respond to others. God Bless |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I saw someone build a roll cage for their truck recently...I will see if I can find it. I know they were going to race the truck, so not sure if it was removable like you want or stationary.
On a side note,I agree with your above post. It is your truck; enjoy it and build it to make you happy. I have said when I take my truck to shows, I know some people won't like it..and I am fine with that...I am thinking of having a suggestion bucket...that cost the person a minimum of $5 for the suggestion! :) I have built mine not as a show truck, but a truck to enjoy, drive, and use as a truck. My wife and I love our truck and that is the only ones that matter or gets a vote. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
What an awful idea why would you ever put a roll cage in your truck it's going to look terrible! You're going to ruin your truck how could you do that!
Haha just playing! Coming from the off road world and putting more than one vehicle on it's roof I appreciate the desire for a cage and I think when done properly they add a nice touch to the overall look especially when in your case you will have power and no doubt a nice mean sounding exhaust to bring a bit of muscle truck character to your truck. I say screw the snowflakes that don't have anything nice to say and build your truck the way you want it just don't forget to post lots of pics and remember triangulation is the key to a good strong cage! |
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When you describe the 'down' bars from cab to bed, is your plan to keep them below the top of the front bed panel (out of sight) or in plain sight above the bed sides? You mentioned using tubing couplers for the pass-through construction. What is your chassis anchoring plan for the tubes? |
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It doesn't make them wrong on the subject matter.... Just poor communicators. |
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I will be leaning on Scoti for some advice also. |
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So inside the cab behind the seats and tucked as close as possible to the rear corners of the cab down bars that will connect to the Frame, going through the cab floor. Somewhere near the floor, install heavy duty tubing connectors, they are like solid steel cut in half and then connect together by bolted connection, then the bar will go as high as possible to the roof then bend to connect to the other side, above the windshield if possible. Then in-between the two down tubes in the corner of cab, just below the ledge that is along the back of the cab have a cross bar that the harness could mount to and then look at cross bracing that bar down to the lower parts of the side bars, then if needed another crossbar above the back of the seats for bracing as needed to make the roll bar functional. Then up top on top cross bar, have another bar exist each side of the cab to the outside - Straight - then angle down to the bed area to a place that makes sense and connect to the frame. Some point in the these bars have those tubbing connectors so that i can remove the cab if needed in the future. Also have some cross bracing in these two angled bars to the bed. Not sure if that helps or not, but please give me your feedback, anyone. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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please excuse my drawing.... sad too i am a drafter by trade and i produce this... lol but it is quick and easy.... rough idea please give input though
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Is your goal/desire to have this as a track 'legal' set-up or other?
I know you did standard cab mounting parts (isolators/bushings) & location mounts. For an effective bar/cage set-up, it will require rigid mounting @ all points. |
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That make sense? |
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http://autoweldchassis.com |
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A roll-bar for roll-over protection (cab roof caving in) & harness anchors can be attached to plates welded to the floor & function in that described manor. If you want to pass bars through the cab wall, all anchor points need to match. How dead-set are you on the 'pass-through' bars to the rear frame section? |
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I think i understand what you are getting at though. Hmmm... |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I think i know what you are getting at Scoti. The bed is on bushings that will allow it to flex and move slightly independent of the frame, so anything attached to the frame will only move with the frame, so counter movements could cause damage. Damn, that could be bad. Even if i was to extend out to the bed, it is separated from the cab and can move independent of the cab also.... I think i am learning here.... So I think your idea is to just install a roll bar inside the cab, only attached to the cab, then the seatbelt shoulder straps could attach to that. I think this is what you are referring to.
Damn, great point.... so... maybe i ditch the whole idea of rollcage. I say this now also because that then interferers with my ideas for a boom box behind the seats in the area.... damn, i am learning all kinds of things today.... lol |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Rear suspension type won't matter here. You are correct in that NVH harmonics will transfer on a solid mount set-up. This kind-of 'un-does' some of your efforts/upgrades to make for a better driving experience (interior metal dampening; noise reduction materials). I hate to say it but I think you 'gotta draw a line in the sand & choose between a good all-around driver or an occasional weekend warrior. Build toward that choice. I would reach out to Level 7 Motorsports (https://www.levelsevenmotorsports.com/). He/they are building some of the best pro-touring classic trucks on the road & tracks. This is no corner-cutting shop either. I would ask for his insight on your cage idea & get his feedback. For reference, here's his Squarebody build w/a similar set-up & the way I would go about it so it's less of a visual thing & more of a legit performance addition. . . ..... |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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His cab is solid mounted (circled red) & you can clearly see where the gusseting effort that went into mounting the rear bars so they solidly tie into the frame rail.
Also note the oversized hole for clearance (also circled red) since the cab & bed are two separate structures. You could possibly not have to worry about that if the bars are attached @ the top of the loop.... |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Yep, I get it now. Damn, Thank you so much for this insight. I would have made a major bobo without your input.
I am making the decision to not install the roll bar connected to the inside of the cab. So now that this is over.... LOL i will start to look at my boom box design now that there will be little to no issues with a roll bar.. lol I still may look at a way to install a bar just to mount a set of shoulder straps to for seatbelts.... maybe.... i do not that there is a truck on here that did just this... i will see if i saved his pic. |
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