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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
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Wow. great thread. Incredibly detailed work.
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I would like to purchase a speedometer kit, could you send me the info
Thanks Alex |
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Tbone has stopped making the voltmeter decal, do you happen to still have some?
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Hi Eric do you have anymore kits for sale?? Also would you be interested in helping me out with 1971 Chevrolet convertible cluster and a 1959 impala convertible.
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http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...oor-wagon.html |
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Dang!!! The wagon is so nice man. Wagon are up and coming car next every one going to wont. I am looking at get 1971 chevelle wagon for the wife making it mordern really reliable. So i can drive around in style.not like hese soda pop cars these day. cool was wondering if u can pm the info for payment. Thank u
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I've read so much my head hurts. I have a couple questions.
1) I'm running a 4.8L with a new style 2006 nv3500, can i run this with my setup? 2) Are you still selling templates or is someone else? 3) Is anyone making a complete kit on here? Thanks |
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2) Yes, I still have them. 3)No one is making a complete kit, but the parts are pretty easy to find. |
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This speedo wont work on 4th gen?
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I reread the instructions and am wondering if my speedo is broken or if Im missing something. My speedometer doesnt start to move until 30-35 mph. But then it goes 1 for 1 with actual speed. Its like it is starting at -30mph or something. Is there a certain way to put the needle on the shaft? I just stuck it on there thinking it would sweep the stops to find 0 but it doesnt move when you power it up.
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Does the speedo read correctly all the way down to 0 once it starts to work?? If so your speedo needle may be sticking to the rest pin. Mine did this and i had to remove the orange paint i put on the needle. I cleaned it off of the area of contact (on the rest pin) and you can hardly notice the difference.
Look at post 380 on page 16 of this posting for my issue!! |
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If the needle isn't moving at all when you take off, but then when you get to 35mph it jumps to that speed, then like 68c10airstream said, it could be the freshly painted needle sticking to the stop pin. I too have had this problem, you will need to scrape the paint off in that area. |
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I did not paint the needle to keep the patina but I did randomly put it on.
Will fix and report back! Thanks! |
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I am interested in one of these kits.
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This is the best find of the year for me, Got stuff yesterday, and started on it today.
https://i.imgur.com/JeHD6sY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NjDJ9Co.jpg Some info for the clusters, 94 Is the one year only for the s10 it goes to 85, However the stepper motor assembly is the exact same from 94-97 for Speedo only clusters. IIRC all that is needed to calibrate a 94 cluster for the 100mph sweep is a change of 1 resistor, I will have conformation when I get mine put together when I can piggy back it off my truck and verify with the truck speedo and scan tool. |
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Caustik, are you trying to use a '94 speedometer? If so, I don't think it will work. I have tried using one of those, but could never get it to be as accurate as the '96. I don't know what resistor you're going to change on it, but don't thonk it's going to be that simple since the older speedobused a circuit board that was about half the size of the newer one. If it's an availability problem, I can probably get you one.
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Question for Eric, (or anyone else who knows) - when I push down the reset knob for the trip meter, the locking bar pulls away from the numbers but they do not roll back to zero. I can manually turn them to zero while holding down the rest knob but they don't spin on their own. Is this broken or does the cluster need to have power applied for this to work? I wouldn't think that is the case, but I see no reason for this not working.
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This is uninstalled, just holding it in my hand. If you are talking about the spring on the plunger itself, it is fine. When I push the plunger (knob) down, it is spring loaded back up. When I push it down, I can see that bar at the top side of the numbers that keeps them from rotating, move out of the way so that the number dials rotate freely, they just don't do it on their own. I hope this is making sense to you. Thanks.
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Yes, the numbers themselves are spring loaded. If they dont return to zero, then the spring in it must be bad.You will just have to replace the odometer number part.
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I have a few questions on wiring.
1. Do you have a part number for the hi beam indicator? 2. What connector did you use to wire it into the main harness? 3. I have no idea how to follow the printed circuit. So how do I wire this thing 4. Do I have to do the volt gauge swap or will the factory one work? Thanks |
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2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/ 3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it. 4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything. |
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[QUOTE=ls1nova71;8152170]1 - I don't have a part number, but it was just a 12v LED that I picked up at Radio Shack.
2 - you can use what ever you want, but I like these. http://kwikwire.com/15-position-amp-connector-kit/ 3 - To follow the printed circuit board, you just have to look at it. The gauges are bolted to the printed circuit, the 12v powers will all be hooked together, so by following it, you should see it. The grounds are usually grounded to the tin, and the sender wires are separate. Just follow the printed 'wire' from the gauge back to the original dash plug so you know what each wire does. I really cant explain it any more than that, but if you cant figure it out, you may need to find someone in your area that can either wire it for you, or at least help you out with it. 4 - You don't have to put a volt gauge in, but there really isn't any good way to get the original ammeter to work with the LS alternator, so that's why I change them. If you can live without that gauge then you don't need to do anything.[/QUOTE Ok Thanks for the info I'm gonna try to work on it tomorrow I'll let you know if I have any issues |
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Another question... what is the difference between the square body volt gauge and the 67-72? I started shopping for a gauge and they look the same to me, as far as the back of the gauge goes. Also, I thought I saw a link to a thread on doing that swap but can't find it now, am I making that up? Thought I would find the answer to my question there. Thanks
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Also, I noticed you added two of the single wire lights between the 2 sets of small gauges, does this make a noticeable difference in gauge brightness? Thanks! |
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Hey Eric, never mind the first question, I took a different approach by counter boring the plastic piece so the LED sits flush with the surface of the plastic piece, then ran the nut and lock washer down on the backside. I think it will work pretty good but if it ever fails, I'm screwed. Lol.
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