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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
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The dimensions of the hole I cut were 7.18" x 4.42" but remember, that's for this particular mounting bracket. I don't know enough about double din units to be able to say those dimensions would work for all brackets. The Pioneer mounting kit I installed has three inner brackets that screw onto the head unit and then it all slides inside the main outer box. There are provisions for four attachment screws in the front and a hefty stud in the back used for a rear support strap. As they say, YMMV ;) |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Vic,
Thanks for the info, just trying to get an idea of the hole size..... Have a good one! Ben |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looks great Vic! That head unit is going to look great in there.
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Here is the pic of N2BILLET's core support with the wire tube running through the middle. I know i was trying to explain it but the picture will probably be mroe clear. http://i41.tinypic.com/m8iqkm.jpg Also if you have not looked at N2Billets build threads you need to.. he does nice work. |
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After four and a half straight days of home improvement, the rain moved in shutting down the carpentry project and allowing me to make a bit of progress on CRLS. First there was a massive cleanup, as sawdust, tools and scrap lumber littered the workshop. I ran the video wire for the dash cam thru the A-pillar with the rest of the wiring and taped it down. I then test fit the roof again with the firewall clamped in place. Probably didn't need to worry, but so much structural material is gone that I thought it prudent to at least clamp the f/w in place to check for twist. The front passenger corner of the roof had a small gap, but it disappeared as the clamps were tightened down. I set the rear gap first then clamped a long piece of 1/2" square tube in the center front. Worked my way to the corners and it all laid down very nice. Tomorrow I'll remove the roof skin and prep the edges, then slide over to the paint store and borrow the adhesive applicator again. By Thursday, it should be permanent.
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Nice work Vic, the patch looks like you got it to fit real nice.
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Fitup looks great! Can't wait to see. Hope the adhesive is activated by humidity, I nearly swam to work this AM! Great day to hole up and work on the truck!
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You have some amazing skills. Can't wait to see watch it progress.
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Awesome work on the roof Victor!
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Noticed a few small spots where the adhesive must have oozed down slightly. It doesn't appear to be enough to compromise the seal, but I'll need to top them off after it hardens completely. Assuming this works really well, I'm already considering using panel adhesive to attach the hood riser when the time comes. |
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Oh heck yeah now your cookin with gas!
Did you have any trouble keeping the rear seam gap tight while going around clamping? It seems like this would be much easier with 2 people, one making sure the rear seam gap stays tight while the other guy clamps. |
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So do you plan on seam sealing around the drip rail like factory. Or will this be good enough to just leave alone?
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Thanks keep me posted on this. I would also like to know how much it shrinks if any. Nice pictures keep them coming.
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looks great, Vic! Glad it went well. If they're loaning you guns, the Fusor self-leveling sealer is nice stuff. I used some stuff from Lord that worked really well and goes in a regular caulk gun. I can get you the number if you like.
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After several days of cure time, the adhesive does not appear to be exhibiting any shrinkage. The cured consistency reminds me of plastic. It can be scratched, but pressing on it with a screwdriver blade doesn't leave an impression. However, it isn't so hard I'm worried it will chip or crack. Seems to have some flexibility. Time will tell, but there's a ton of shops out there using it for all types of panels, so that says a lot. |
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The roof is to the point where I can move on to other matters. Here's some shots of it after the clamps came off and I tooled out some of the excess adhesive.
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I need to get some parts to Eagle for a last round of metal blasting. Decided to go ahead and have the firewall stripped while I'm at it. To that end, I set up the frame extensions and spot welded them in position. Had to use some small spacers because the replacement floor is 3/16" wider where these pieces attach. After both frame pieces were in, I removed the f/w and started patching the remaining open holes and finished welding out everything. Last step was to reinstall it on the cab and see how much the welding had warped it. Not too bad, all in all. Had to tweak one spot, but it moved right out. When it comes back from the blaster, I'll dolly any remaining whoop-de-do's out to prep it for filler later on this winter.
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Nice progress, I know all that welding can be tedious but it looks like you knocked it out in a hurry.
In the picture of the back of the cab it looks like you have a good start on pulling all the dings, I remember there being alot of them, have you already fixed them all or are there still more to do? Whats the plan while the firewall is out for blasting? |
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When I took the accessory brackets in for nickel plating, the folks at Detray suggested it would last better with a layer of chrome on top. The finished appearance wasn't as "satin" as I had hoped, so I've been glass beading them to knock down the shine somewhat. I have two more to go, then I plan to reinstall the accessories on the engine. Between now and then, I also need to fire up the HVLP and squirt the rest of the pulleys with the Toxic Orange color. We may have one more day of good weather this week so maybe I can fit that task in. Before I go to the blasters, I will also have to have the tires dismounted so I can strip the powder coating from the front of the wheels. After much thought, I've decided I won't be happy with the gray color next to the Toxic Orange. I bought a POR15 product called Glisten PC that is a non-porous, crystal clear coating for bare aluminum to replace the powder coating. So there's no shortage of things to do. |
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Fusor 122 is the hi-tech stuff- can be seen here-
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=575769&page=7 I got the Lord Stuff at Auto Color and Equipment, the paint store I use on 23rd between Noland and Lee's Summit rd on the North side. Well, hell. I just figured out Lord makes Fusor. Gaah. Anyway, the easy standard caulk gun stuff is Fusor 800 EZ, and it is. A little messy, wear gloves, mineral spirits on a finger slicks the whole channel right up nice. Get extra shoot tubes. It's what we used on Yeller. Uncle Matt got all zen and did it right over the first crap I put on while I was wigging out and handing him stuff like a squirrel on meth. Sometimes cooler heads must prevail! Your work is looking great! Can't wait for the next installment! Ps- don't forget to look down into the holes there on the top of the cowl and inspect the heck out of that seam-especially on the pass. side. Sneaky sneaky rust there, big leak later. Found it there big time but almost unnoticeable on Yeller. Keep it up! |
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I'm late to the party but jumping on the band wagon now. I scrolled through most of the build this morning and you're doing some real nice work. Watching guys like you always makes me feel like a hack, but maybe over time some of the finer points to doing this work will sink in and I can at least aspire to greatness. And thanks to you I have a few more tools added to my watch list on ebay. ;)
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Very nice work on the firewall and roof. This cab will be as close to perfect as you can get when done. Keep the pictures coming.
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I've been puttering around with stuff that needs to be done, but doesn't have as much impact as big body panels. I decided to reinstall the accessories on the front of the engine and was in the process of giving the brackets a tune-up when I was hit by Moore's Law. If more is better, too much ought to be just right. While attempting to give the nickel plating a satin look, I spent too much time on the front of the AC bracket with the glass beads. Long story short, I ruined it and one other piece as well. Costly mistake, but I've decided to send them to Jonathon for powder coating and call it good.
The front of the fan pulley was bothering me, so I dug around in the scrap bin and found a piece of aluminum that I'd machined a long time ago as a steering wheel adapter for my 57 Ford. With a little work it became a cover for the front of the pulley which looks much better than four bolts and the pilot. Also finished welding out the patch in the dash where the stereo head will go. Today was probably the last day the temperature will permit painting for a while. I needed to get the last of the pulleys painted and while I was at it, I went ahead and squirted the driveshaft and the shocks. I'll be glad I did it when the cold weather hits next week. |
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Everything looks great Vic.
I can't wait to see the rest of the cab work. |
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Lookin great Vic!
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Awesome idea on the pump pulley cover! Looks clean.
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After the paint cured on the parts, I figured to quickly reinstall them and get back on the cab. Not to be. When I mounted up the first Monroe SensaTrac shock, the increased barrel diameter immediately interfered with the axle tube. It looked like if I moved the top of the shock back, it would correct the problem, but after several mods, I'd moved it back 1/2" and only had about .100" between the shock and the axle tube. So the only practical solution was to move the bottom shock mounts forward.
Once again the scrap bin came to the rescue as I was able to find two pieces of 1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3" material that miraculously had two 1/2" holes in just the right spots. The task became much easier at that point. I mocked up the pieces and marked the angle that I needed. I then calmped them on the mill and removed .240" of material to offset them flush with the existing mounting eye. Used the corner rounder to make them a bit prettier and then installed them. Pictures below are before paint and you can see they are supported on the front and the bottom of the existing mount areas. With a 1/2" bolt torqued to 95 ft/lbs, they aren't going anywhere. With the shocks in the front hole, I now have plenty of clearance between the shock barrel and the axle tube. I also went down to the tire store this morning and had the tires dismounted. Headed to Eagle Stripping tomorrow to have the front of all four wheels blasted back down to bare aluminum. When I get them back, I'll use Glisten PC to coat them. It's crystal clear and will not cause the rims to turn grey like they did with the clear powder coating. |
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Great problem solving Vic. Getting closer.
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Oh the things i could do with a mill! Cool mod!
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Very nicely done! You amaze me with your elegantly simple but NICE solutions.
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Lookin good- the extra vertical should make 'em work!
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Very nice work! Corner rounder??? Is that quarter round tooling for your mill? Anxious to see the clear coat on the wheels. My factory alloys on the Silverardo are looking shabby :(
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