Re: 61K10 build
 

Truck looks great! Great idea for installing the hood.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Truck looks amazing! And provides good motivation for slackers like me. :)

Re: 61K10 build
 

Jason--you are young and have plenty of time, enjoy other things. on the t/f case you put new clevises (if that right name) I could not get it adjusted with them. couldn't get it to go into 2h. put my old ones on and got it to go into 2h. might have been just me. have to drain it as one of the rounds plates is leaking a bit. my pto is leaking a little also. and i hate oil leaks!

take care my friend----------kimble

Re: 61K10 build
 

The truck looks amazing!! Great job!!

Re: 61K10 build
 

well another problem with my fuel gauge--does not work, so i took out the cluster (pita) and put in another gauge that came with the tk. still no=workie. have a new sending unit and the old org one also. both test ok. So I'm putting new gauges, not stock. heres the gauges that i will put in the stock cluster. we will see if i can make these work and look some what stock.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Is the sending unit well grounded?

Re: 61K10 build
 

Is that the only guage not working? And if you are sure it's the guage and not any wiring issues, ie ground as Argonaut suggest, I could send you another guage. If you've already got those in the pic, tho, they look pretty nice upgrade.

Re: 61K10 build
 

will see if i can make these work. two sending units Jason, new in the tk and one on the bench. wiring is new american auto wire as i had dash problems with the org wiring. the ground is good as is power to the gauge. tired of 50yr old junk.

I bought a gauge cluster on e-bay when i started. the speedo was set back to ooooo and it looks like new # were installed. when i drove the tk for the first time getting into 4g all of a sudden one big buzzing noise out of the speedo (has new speedo cable) so i put my org one back in but haven't driven the tk yet as my dash cluster is out.

this thing is spooky to drive lol. moves around a little (probably my used steering box) every time i try to save some $$$ it bite's me in the you know where lol.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Are you going to retrofit the existing cluster with the new gauges behind the faceplate? Or are you making a new baseplate with all new surface mount gauges like these?
I do like the classic style of those new gauges.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Jason--yes i am going to put them behind the face plate. I mocked one up with another gauge 2-1/8". took the bezel and glass off. will take a pic. I hope the new ones come apart easy.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Very cool. The one thing I love about the original gauges is the big sweeping speedometer. I have swapped in a volt meter from a later model chevy. I I adapted the gauge faceplate to it and then modified the back of the cluster to make it fit. Anyway, my point is that it is doable.

Re: 61K10 build
 

did you rebearing your t/c by any chance?. those round plates sometimes wear through from end play from worn brgs and thrust washers. sometimes you don't see the little cut from the wear and it leaks from there
ron

Re: 61K10 build
 

ron--not the org t/c. bought it from argonaut. it was not an org from his tk as the tag was from some tk shop and there are no # stamped on it. Jason re-gasketed and new seals. the leek was just a weep. seems like it has stopped? pto weeps some also. time will tell.

Re: 61K10 build
 

couple of pics of my fuel gauge. volt gauge is coming from Ohio. the v-gauge in the left is no good, got it to work a couple of times then nothing. might get a clock to match my gauges later at $101.00 way later. I would like to replace all with new but too much $$$. the gauge in the batt window will be a new green face one

Re: 61K10 build
 

That's perfect! Be sure to save the two old gauges though, just in case you ever go back & figure out why they didn't work.

Add the temp and oil pressure and it'll "look" normal. Most people won't know.

Re: 61K10 build
 

well got my gauge cluster back in, gas and volt gauges work. as usually another problem. rear end is shot. when i had it apart i readjusted the backlash that was way loose. It makes big noise now. removed d/s to t/f case--trans was quiet. put d/s back in and removed d/s to rear--t/f case was ok, a little noisy but that was expected. hooked d/s back to rear and put the rear on jack-stands. rear is very noisy on acceleration and d-acceleration. and yes no ring & pinion's in 3.90 avl. as the party goes on and the road never ends!

Re: 61K10 build
 

Cluster looks good! Sorry to hear bout the ring & Pinion. Try a couple junk yards in your area. Those Eaton rear ends are all over the place here in Tx and Okla. Just have to take the cover off a couple to see which ones are good.

Got a question for you tho, since you just did everything. I'm putting a gauge cluster in my dash as well, but keeping the orig fuse box and wiring. Will the dash cluster harness with gauges plug into my orig harness? Thought , I'd ask before calling.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Kimble I hate to hear that after all the work you've done. I had to replace my rear yoke on mine and I just installed another one and just tightened it up pretty good...I was wondering about that crush sleeve. I haven't driven mine on the road since I got it 2 yrs ago... Other than when I tried it out when I bought it, it was very slow with 4:56's gears and 4 spd and the V-8 with a mild cam just didn't act like it had the power it should have had.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Mitch--have maybe a line on one from an old friend i grew up with. Randy--my rear is 3.90 so a little more highway friendly. I had a feeling that is was gonna make noise. I hate to put in a 12 bolt--we will see i guess.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Mitch--forgot to answer your question about the gauge cluster. the gauge wiring is a little different, can't remember all the details. you would need a new temp sending unit(???) and tubing from eng to manual oil gauge. I would not use the amp gauge myself. I know you can buy the gauge cluster wiring.

kimble

Re: 61K10 build
 

sneeky dash cluster, i like it!!! updated with vintage look and shouldnt break the bank

Re: 61K10 build
 

Thanks Kimble. Hey, You never said if you opened the diff cover on your rear end or not. As long teeth on the ring & pinion are not worn, you might wanna check out the differential rebuild kit that Ecklers sells for the eaton diffs. It's listed as 1955 2nd series - 62 rebuild kit. Comes with all the needed bearings & races. Maybe its just a bearing going bad.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Thanks Kimble. Hey, You never said if you opened the diff cover on your rear end or not. As long teeth on the ring & pinion are not worn, you might wanna check out the differential rebuild kit that Ecklers sells for the eaton diffs. It's listed as 1955 2nd series - 62 rebuild kit. Comes with all the needed bearings & races. Maybe its just a bearing going bad.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Mitch--I had the hole third member out of the housing as it was leaking,also to ck axle bearings (which were good as was the axles). the R&P had about .250 slop (loose) i readjusted the back lash to spec. so it was worn by being out of spec, and it's not the org one either. I thank the date was 1959. might just rebuild it with 3.38's till i come up with a good 3.90. the closes r&p for the ft dana44 3.31's which is stretching it a bit. probable never use 4wd anyway. going to fix all my leeks in the t/f case and figure out the R-end. I've built a few rear ends some years ago when i was Drag racing.

Re: 61K10 build
 

That gauge cluster looks super! Yer truck is coming along nicely! You've done a job well done. :metal: Now you can help me with mine. :lol: :mm: :chevy:

Re: 61K10 build
 

well along with my rear end problem I have a clutch problem. everything is new--M-cyl and slave cyl. adjusting as the book says

slave all the way in-adj rod between the arm (5/16")

pedal 1/8" of free play

seems the adj rod between the master and pedal is too short? sense this tk was org a 235-6 and where all the v-8 stuff came from. clutch works but has more free play at the pedal and grabs not too far of the floor. the adj rod needs to be longer as it runs out of threads. I'm tired of working on this tk--it might just sit for awhile!

everybody have a great Turkey-day----------

Re: 61K10 build
 

Well, don't worry just a couple kinks to work out. Take a break, then when you come back you'll have everything worked out.

Re: 61K10 build
 

the question that I ask; are you sure that you have the right release brg. there are 2, a long and a short. with your description of 1/8" freeplay and clutch grabbing at the bottom that this may be the case
ron

Re: 61K10 build
 

Oh Lordy I have a story about the throwout bearing in one of my early projects... Hang in there Kimble...

Re: 61K10 build
 

ron--the t/o bearing came with the kit, seems to fit in the bell ok. diafram type clutch, not b&b 3 finger type. same type that came out of the tk when i bought it. will get it figured out lol.

Re: 61K10 build
 

came with the kit doesn't really mean anything. this mistake has been made many times over the years. drop the inspection cover and see if you can see how much space you have between the release brg and the p/plate and also see if you can get the 2 different t/o bearings together and check the differences.
ron

Re: 61K10 build
 

I had a similar problem on my pickup. I used the factory hydro bellhousing, slave cylinder and clutch for an 85 pickup but found that the slave cylinder was bottoming out on the circlip before completely engaging the clutch. I just cut and ground a new longer slave cyl pushrod from some 3/8 rod I have. Maybe I'm also using a throwout bearing that is too short?

Re: 61K10 build
 

Jason--It's something simple. my tk had an adapter that looks to be home-made? for the slave. clutch seemed to work ok but just drove it around the yard. about the t/o bearing. I have built many chevy clutch set-ups and never had a problem with the t/o bearing. for the diafram type there are two type bearings long & short because of the two type of fingers--tall and short. the stock bell doesn't have much room for the t/o/b anyway. I need a stronger clutch arm return spring also.might still have air in the system? here is a pic of the adapter that was on the tk when bought. the adj bolt from the slave was in the outside of the arm not the inside as 60-66 posted pics for me of a stock set-up.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Hope ya get yer clutch fixed soon! Hope I didn't miss anything. lol :chevy:

Re: 61K10 build
 

TJ--not much going on. well i put a 1/4" ball bearing in the master cyl hole where the push rod goes in. well now i can adj my clutch like the book says. need to build a new p/rod 1/4" longer than stock. Got a lead on a rear third member with the 3.90 gears in good shape.

Re: 61K10 build
 

I wonder why they had that "adapter" plate bolted on there. Shouldn't the slave cylinder just bolt straight to the bellhousing? Seems like that might solve the issue with the too-short pushrod length.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Jason--I as you wonder why the adapter? I bought a nos slave on e-bay for cheap, will see if any difference from the re-pop that i have on the tk now. winter is setting in here now so been doing some winter-iszing. will find out tonight about the third-member. will rebuild with new bearings as i am not going to do this again. I will build a new 12-bolt and be done with it.

kimble

Re: 61K10 build
 

of course the slave was not a slave just a wheel cyl! getting the third member on friday hopefully. will post up some pics of the bearing rebuild.

Re: 61K10 build
 

Good to hear you got both items on the 'fix'! Went to get a 'core support' this weekend and saw a HO32 sitting on the ground. LOL

Re: 61K10 build
 

Mitch--I hope the r&p are good. might just take my old one and put 3.38's in it for highway use if i want to drive it a long distance.