Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I was told my an old truck guy that truck tolerance on the assembly line was 1/4" so anything closer than that is a win. These weren't built for show trucks, no car was back then anyways.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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Okay so this is my first time replacing a cab corner. I must have put it and the rocker on 100 times.... So I just decided time to weld.
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Ok so I was having a hard time welding the cab corner where 2 layers of metal were. I am thinking contamination from whatever was between the layers of metal. Because the exposed metal was epoxy primed which I sanded off. But something was causing an issue.
I will try and get it finished welded up on Saturday. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Looking good sir! Did you get past the contamination problem?
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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I had my bodyguy friend stop by when I had the rocker and door set. He said it looks better than original as far as the gaps. So since I didn't know how good was good I was afraid to just weld it. After he told me that I thought time to burn it in. This is a picture of the inner rocker with rust encapsulate on it. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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This is the out rocker primed. I painted it before I installed it
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This is the rocker burnt in.
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Close up of the driver rear door jab rocker.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Good job!
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Looking real good. If you have time could you weld in the 16 seat nuts for me. I'm not looking forward to this step welding upside down.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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hey guys I have a question regarding the holes in the firewall.i want to weld up the ones I don't need but not sure what all of them go to.
This picture is of the original throttle area and I think the top holes are for the windshield washer hoses. What did you guys do? |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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Does anyone have a picture or something about what each hole is for? Some I can figure out some not sure about.
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This picture might help !
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Here is another and one for A/C & non A/C. The extra hole not marked between the fuse block and the emergency brake I believe is for a tach harness.
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Can anyone tell me if I need the holes with the black arrows? |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I filled in most of the holes on my fire wall. for the AC I cut out a bigger hole and did 1 patch panel. the smaller one I use a hole saw to make plug and welded them up.
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Do you have a picture of your firewall?? |
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I will study it.. Thank you! |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
3 of the holes are for the rubber plugs that hold the jute to the inside of the firewall, and the hole next to the steering column opening is for the collar that hold the column boot on. ( Screw hole )
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I ran my washer hoses thru the cowel from inside the cab rather than out the fire wall and over the rain gutter.I brought the feed tube in below the parking brake cable. Much cleaner
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
For the hole with the black arrows i welded a 1" long piece of threaded rod in place of the screw and used nuts inside to hold the coloum dust boot in place
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Can I weld up the holes and install studs to mount the jute with washers and nuts like you said about the column seal?
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
You could or don't bother with the padding at all you could use a stick on or spray on sound deadener perhaps?
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I was going to ask that. I could just weld up the holes and use a Dynomat or equivalent. I would just have to I do something on the column seal, right? |
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I forgot to post the pictures of my firewall. I still have to drill the hole for vintage air.
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Thanks David. That is what I plan on doing but first I need to get the cab corners and rockers corrected from the PO. Been working on the cab corners today.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
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After I cut out the lower rear door jab that was replaced by the PO but was over laid and than welded. Not butt welded.
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You can see where the floor corner was replaced and just over laid and welded...I have cut out the over laps and welded it like it should be. Or at least how I think it should be.
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Here it is welded up. After I grind it down it should be flat like it was never touched... I hope.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Just heat up that bondo with a torch and use a scraper to scrape it off. Less dust and if its the real old bondo there is no asbestos risk
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The rear view of the cab with the cab corner removed.
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Good morning and Happy New Year's eve eve guys,
Got a chance to work on the truck last night for a few hours. Man the time goes by fast and it doesn't even look like I did anything!!! 1st picture (sorry its a little blurry) is when I fixed the PO overlap weld behind the cab corner. I cut it out, coated the floor brace and butt welded it back together. Onto the Cab pictures... I worked on the passenger door alignment before I add the cab corner and rocker. Problem I am having is that the upper window frame is hitting the cab. see picture 3. I think the door need to be moved back towards the back of the cab. To do this I will have to open the holes on the hinges a little. Has anyone had this problem that could respond to my question??? I am sure someone has... I would like to get this door adjusted tonight so I can work on the cab corner and rocker. After all the metal work then its off to the body guy and out of my hair. Update tomorrow hopefully.... :metal: ON |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
not sure how the gap measures on the rear of the door but it looks like you just need to rotate the door counter clockwise a smidgin
adjust the upper hinge? |
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It's a lot better but still too close. I am going to finish getting the cab door and fender aligned and than I will address the window frame and/or A pillar. |
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A view of the door aligned with the rocker and cab corner. Not yet welded in
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Cab corner tack welded.
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Close up of the first set of tack welds. I took my time and planished the welds as I went. What do you know everyone that says to do it is for a reason lol.
I am figuring it out. Now I just need to remember to switch from 36 grit to 80 before sanding down to the sheetmetal. |
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