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I couldn't make into work today, so why not stay inside and work on more drawings.:lol: It's progress. I just finished the speedo and rt pod schematics. Now just need to tie up the loose ends with an overall schematic with everything hooked to the american wire harness. It's a lot easier than haveing a bunch of wire laying on the floor.
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Inspiring me Alan.. i have to take my last ASE test on wiring would you like to take it for me?? :lol:
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Your going to make me go pull my gages out arn't you.;) I hope it snows like hell in GA.
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Another picture....?
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...ireDiagram.gif In some cases when you try to shut the vehicle off, power from the alternator can feed up to the coil and keep the engine running. To cure this you can install a diode in the ignition wire that activates the #1 terminal. This will stop the power from feeding back up the ignition line. These are buck or two at Radio Shack, just be sure to put the stripe end toward the alternator to stop any flow. Danny aka: Sparky :lol: |
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Alan,
I've got a 'BRAND NEW STILL IN THE BOX' American Auto-Wire waiting for me to get off my deadbutt and install it. Are you go'na shame me into being productive....? :lol: Sure you can TEE off the brown wire.... :metal: If the BROWN WIRE feeds to the coil, then I would put the aforementioned diode between the TEE and the GREEN LIGHT. This will keep backflow from feeding the coil. But, if ya put the diode between the alternator and the Green Light, (and the diode is working properly), the GREEN LIGHT might not go out as it should not receive any positive power from that direction...! At least in theory..... :D Danny |
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Is this a great forum or what. :metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal:
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OK, I think I have the schematic all done that ties my gauges to the American Wire harness with the needed QD's to enable me to remove the insturment pods individualy. It's all good in theory, until I'm hanging upside down under the dash trying to make it work. I'm thinking I can do most of it on the bench. There is no guarantee that this will work yet. There is still the question of the diode, but that can be done later. It might be confusing but makes complete sense to me. :lol: I just want a nice and neat functional harness that people say Wow!! (in a good way) The kids markers came in real handy doing all of this. ;) |
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Can we start all over I'm confused.........:hmm:
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Ok Alan,
I got the schematic in my hand, (wine glass in the other), and it would appear that the PINK WIRE powers the ignition coil and the BROWN WIRE goes to the fuse block where ORANGE to Engine Fan, BROWN to AC/HEAT, TAN to accessory connector,as well as TAN to the Radio all branch off. The BROWN from the Alternator runs DOTED LINE to the fuse block where it meets with the BROWN from the Ignition Switch. I would place your GREEN LIGHT in series with the BROWN wire from the alternator without any diode, as the PINK wire feeds the coil and is not conected to the BROWN wire anywhere that I can see.... If you put an Ohm meter on the ignition switch and find the PINK & BROWN terminals are still conected with the key in the OFF POSITION, you should put the diode in the DOTTED BROWN WIRE between your GREEN LIGHT & the fuse block. And if that doesn't work as I claim, I'll cut my Tech Support Fee by 50%, :pty: or you can pull my chain...! My schematic looks a little different from what I can see of yours. Mine is part # 500560 'FULL VEHICLE WIRING KIT 1960-66 CHEVY/GMC TRUCK'... Danny |
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Alan if your nice maybe Dave will put you a Diode in the mail to you.
Dave I already instaled the diode in the harness that you bought from me. And theres a couple extra in the Purple Pampers box. Alan yes you need to install the Diode. If you go to turn off the ignition power will still feed through and not let the the alt from sending a charge. It's just like putting a check valve in a air system. It's actully funny, with my painless harness I hooked it all up and started up the truck and was wondering why it wouldn't turn off. I guess I didn't see that part in the instructions about the diode. 66bowtie where you from in the hill country? |
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We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it.... :mm: I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program... :ito: P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.:flag: |
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Parts in the mail.;)
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I got my order in from performance Plus Connection. I ordered it Friday and was here today. :metal: Very nice people. I found them on ebay and called them direct.
Thanks Dave, I got the diode today. I don't know much about diodes so I ask this question. The one in the diagram Danny posted is a PN 276-1143 and the one from Paul and Dave is a 276-1661. Any idea on the differences. I guess I could get on Radio shacks website and see................I hyper linked the PN's above for their technical info. It looks like the 1143's are a 3 amp 200v and the 1661's are a 6 amp 50v Vrm if I'm understanding them right. There is a lot of info on the back of the package I have. I don't understand most of it. :uhmk: |
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Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator. Danny:chevy: |
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Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.
my build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439559 |
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Alan that diode was the one that was suggested by painless to use with their harness. It works great.
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I did'nt want to spend money money on a bunch of different colored wire just to use some short pieces. I had some old harnesses laying around with a bunch of different colored wires. If I had my harness in the truck I would have some scraps left over that would work. I found this web site http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html that shows what wire gauge actual diameters are. Most in these harnesses are 18 gauge. I'd feel better using 16 gauge on most of it. The american wire gauges are 16. I say that because they measured out to be .050". Am I correct by saying that? I also found this chart I use to use many years ago studying for my A&P. Don't ask me to explain it. :lol: I also remebered tonight I have to get some dash lights for the gauges. |
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alan, i'm a bodyman as well and i considered myself a medicore fabricator till i saw your work, ALL HAIL ALAN! the dash swap is nothing short of beautiful, I love it! keep up the good work I cant wait to see this thing finished
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Hey Alan,
I really enjoy following your build, cause you always have some great links. The Ohm's Chart and Engineering Tool Box was the best. Thanks. Danny :chevy: |
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