Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I couldn't make into work today, so why not stay inside and work on more drawings.:lol: It's progress. I just finished the speedo and rt pod schematics. Now just need to tie up the loose ends with an overall schematic with everything hooked to the american wire harness. It's a lot easier than haveing a bunch of wire laying on the floor.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Inspiring me Alan.. i have to take my last ASE test on wiring would you like to take it for me?? :lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Your going to make me go pull my gages out arn't you.;) I hope it snows like hell in GA.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Another picture....?

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...ireDiagram.gif

In some cases when you try to shut the vehicle off, power from the alternator can feed up to the coil and keep the engine running. To cure this you can install a diode in the ignition wire that activates the #1 terminal. This will stop the power from feeding back up the ignition line. These are buck or two at Radio Shack, just be sure to put the stripe end toward the alternator to stop any flow.

Danny aka: Sparky :lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan,
I've got a 'BRAND NEW STILL IN THE BOX' American Auto-Wire waiting for me to get off my deadbutt and install it. Are you go'na shame me into being productive....? :lol:

Sure you can TEE off the brown wire.... :metal:

If the BROWN WIRE feeds to the coil, then I would put the aforementioned diode between the TEE and the GREEN LIGHT. This will keep backflow from feeding the coil. But, if ya put the diode between the alternator and the Green Light, (and the diode is working properly), the GREEN LIGHT might not go out as it should not receive any positive power from that direction...! At least in theory..... :D

Danny

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

:haha: at me taking an electrical test. Back 20 something years ago I knew a little more about electricity when I was getting my airframe and powerplant license. I've slept a lot since then. :lol:

Yep...........but your making a lot of progress on yours. I'm sitting here dreaming. I'm tired of the ice. The snow was fun. I'm ready for spring.

Question about statement in blue above. The brown wire goes straight from #1 on alt to ign switch. The feed to the dizzy comes straight from ign. switch. Can the power back feed go thru the ign switch? (Idon't see how) I posted a pic of the american wire kit below that shows the optional diode. Should I go ahead and utilize it? What kind of diode do I ask for at Radio Shack? --Edit-- Never mind about what I need to ask for at Radio Shack. I see it in your pic.

That's exactly what I'm trying to do........motivate. :haha: Do you have your American wire schematic handy? The top brown wire on the ign switch doesn't feed the coil as far as I can tell. As you can probably tell the placement (if needed) of the diode is confussing to me. I understand it lets power flow in one direction. That's about it. Thanks for your time with this. ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Is this a great forum or what. :metal::metal::metal::metal::metal::metal:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Amen Brother!!

OK, I think I have the schematic all done that ties my gauges to the American Wire harness with the needed QD's to enable me to remove the insturment pods individualy. It's all good in theory, until I'm hanging upside down under the dash trying to make it work. I'm thinking I can do most of it on the bench. There is no guarantee that this will work yet. There is still the question of the diode, but that can be done later. It might be confusing but makes complete sense to me. :lol: I just want a nice and neat functional harness that people say Wow!! (in a good way) The kids markers came in real handy doing all of this. ;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Can we start all over I'm confused.........:hmm:

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Ok Alan,

I got the schematic in my hand, (wine glass in the other), and it would appear that the PINK WIRE powers the ignition coil and the BROWN WIRE goes to the fuse block where ORANGE to Engine Fan, BROWN to AC/HEAT, TAN to accessory connector,as well as TAN to the Radio all branch off.

The BROWN from the Alternator runs DOTED LINE to the fuse block where it meets with the BROWN from the Ignition Switch.

I would place your GREEN LIGHT in series with the BROWN wire from the alternator without any diode, as the PINK wire feeds the coil and is not conected to the BROWN wire anywhere that I can see.... If you put an Ohm meter on the ignition switch and find the PINK & BROWN terminals are still conected with the key in the OFF POSITION, you should put the diode in the DOTTED BROWN WIRE between your GREEN LIGHT & the fuse block.

And if that doesn't work as I claim, I'll cut my Tech Support Fee by 50%, :pty: or you can pull my chain...!

My schematic looks a little different from what I can see of yours.
Mine is part # 500560 'FULL VEHICLE WIRING KIT 1960-66 CHEVY/GMC TRUCK'...
Danny

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan if your nice maybe Dave will put you a Diode in the mail to you.

Dave I already instaled the diode in the harness that you bought from me. And theres a couple extra in the Purple Pampers box.

Alan yes you need to install the Diode. If you go to turn off the ignition power will still feed through and not let the the alt from sending a charge. It's just like putting a check valve in a air system.

It's actully funny, with my painless harness I hooked it all up and started up the truck and was wondering why it wouldn't turn off. I guess I didn't see that part in the instructions about the diode.

66bowtie where you from in the hill country?

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Paul,

We have a little Bat Cave out here in the Sticks, not too far from 'Pull-My-Finger Texas'. Ya go west til ya smell it, then north til ya step in it.... :mm:

I could draw you a map, but I think would be a violation of the Witness Protection Program... :ito:

P.S. I liked your Spinner Hupcap Video and God bless & thank you and your bros for your service.:flag:

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That was a good one.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I guess some sweet talking is in store. :lol: Hey Dave your one cool dude..........will that do it. :uhmk:

That's funny.:lol:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Parts in the mail.;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Dave, you da man!!
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I got my order in from performance Plus Connection. I ordered it Friday and was here today. :metal: Very nice people. I found them on ebay and called them direct.

Thanks Dave, I got the diode today. I don't know much about diodes so I ask this question. The one in the diagram Danny posted is a PN 276-1143 and the one from Paul and Dave is a 276-1661. Any idea on the differences. I guess I could get on Radio shacks website and see................I hyper linked the PN's above for their technical info. It looks like the 1143's are a 3 amp 200v and the 1661's are a 6 amp 50v Vrm if I'm understanding them right. There is a lot of info on the back of the package I have. I don't understand most of it. :uhmk:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan,
Anything above 16 volts & 1 amp should be more than enough the stop any flow. Just make sure the end with the strips are towards the alternator.
Danny:chevy:

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Hey Alan, Changing the subject a little but I was looking at your build thread and was checking out your work on the C10 bed. Im still learning all this metal work and body work as I do this for a hobby. I have been watching my uncle for years that does bodywork for a living. He attended a seminar and they were talking about not putting body filler on top of bare metal, that you should prime the metal with an etching primmer sealer then do your mud work on top of that. They said the body filler hardens and causes the metal to sweat and create rust under the filler. I see guys building high end cars on tv and magizines putting filler all over bare metal. Whats your thoughts on this. I have been using the dynalight filler from carquest. any thoughts on this subject will be appreciated.

my build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439559

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Thanks Danny. Just got to round up some wire and I can start making the gauge harness.

I will let the manufacturer of the product tell you in the quote below.

Quote:

Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint? A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied.

I use Rage Extreme. Here is a link to more info on this product. I've been in the body shop for 15 years and have never experienced that problem with any products I've used. I was at one shop for 8.5 years and the current job for 7 years. Most of my repairs is over bare metal. I have never had a failure in the adhesion properties of any filler. I've used several types, but have been using rage Extreme for 8-10 years. There are too many factors that can affect a proper repair. i.e. location like close to the coast, humidity and of coarse the technicians practices to name a few. I just read the manufacturers recommendation and use my own experiences to do the best repair possible.;)

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

Alan that diode was the one that was suggested by painless to use with their harness. It works great.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

10-4 Thanks Paul!!

I did'nt want to spend money money on a bunch of different colored wire just to use some short pieces. I had some old harnesses laying around with a bunch of different colored wires. If I had my harness in the truck I would have some scraps left over that would work. I found this web site http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html that shows what wire gauge actual diameters are. Most in these harnesses are 18 gauge. I'd feel better using 16 gauge on most of it. The american wire gauges are 16. I say that because they measured out to be .050". Am I correct by saying that?

I also found this chart I use to use many years ago studying for my A&P. Don't ask me to explain it. :lol:

I also remebered tonight I have to get some dash lights for the gauges.

Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

alan, i'm a bodyman as well and i considered myself a medicore fabricator till i saw your work, ALL HAIL ALAN! the dash swap is nothing short of beautiful, I love it! keep up the good work I cant wait to see this thing finished

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Hey Alan,
I really enjoy following your build, cause you always have some great links. The Ohm's Chart and Engineering Tool Box was the best.
Thanks.
Danny :chevy: