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Put my front end together.:metal:Works great. Need to get some braided air lines. I think I got the hang of the upside down welding thing.:lol::lol:
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Looks good Dave. Upper ball joints are getting close to maxing out.
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Maybe that's why the frame is about a 1/2 high.
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Looken good Dave :metal:
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The frames not on the ground. Well it will be when I put some weight on it.:sumo: You can see it in the first picture.
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That what I was figuring. And that's one of the reasons most people go with aftermarket A arms. Your ball joints are gonna be maxed out giving you trouble down the road. If you look at MMW's I got mine for $100 with new bushings. This would be the best way to go. And then you can get his A arm for your 66.
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If you are maxing your upper ball-joint, and you dont want aftermarket uppers, you can just get a power performance ballpoint made specifically for this. its angled to fix the issue, and its much stronger then stock, or stock replacement.
or you could get cool looking tubular upper arms.. your choice. I like the tubular uppers because they give you more room underhood. im not really a fan of the MMW plate style arms, but they're very popular right now. PP balljoints: http://www.powerperformancemotorspor...SC_0008low.jpg http://www.powerperformancemotorspor...SC_0031low.jpg |
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WOW that's kewl. I wish they made them for our trucks.
Here's the link. http://www.powerperformancemotorspor...&categoryId=17 |
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:jdp::eek:Price of cool ant cheap $100 each. I think my stock ones were 30 for both.:uhmk: I think I'll just max them out for awhile. I can replace them six times for that price. They'll only be maxed when it's on the ground.
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That's why i would go with the MMW arms. It's a $100 for the set and you already have not ball joints.
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Well that makes it worth it then.:lol: How much were the arms? If I got the arms I would'nt have to spend 200 on steering u joints and couplers and supports and joints and joints.
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The s10 arms are $100, and the c10 arms are $175 I believe.
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if you're going to max what you have, just keep an eye on the balljoint boot. they like to tear. as far as arms fixing the problem, they use them in circle track along with mini-trucker guys.. so theres literally 100s of companies making them... just make sure they tilt the balljoint angle or you will have the exact same problem. |
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after some looking around when i got them they were on sale.. normal price is $99 a pair.
heres the 3 year old thread where they announced them: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/n...joints-411924/ |
Re: Daverods 52
Hey Dave what DOM bag did you go with? What's the OD of your tires? And how much lift are you getting from laying frame? I'm just trying to figure out how much lift I'm going to get with a 2500 bag and 24" OD tire.
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:lol:24" OD What size are those. 7.5x 3.14=23.55.:smoke: I'll check tonight.
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Nice build man!
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Thanks. Hay Paul my tires are 29" tall. It lifts my cross member 12". It's kinda hard to tell because I don't have my rear axle on. Good news is I got my engine back from the machine shop.
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what all did you have to have done to the block?
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Thanks Dave. I guess 2500's will do fine to lift mine up good.
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how much the block work and head work cost if you don't mind me asking?
I like to see what other shops in other areas charge. |
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valve job 170
guides installed 98 magaflux 25 seats instal;led 120 milled 70 clean 75 hone 45 crank poloshed 40 cam bearings install 45 rebuild kit less pistons/w cam 216 valve guides 31 intake valves 24 exhaust valves 26 seats 40 Grand total 1075 He put the rods on the pistons and gave me 2 tubes of lube.:lol::lol: I don't know if he gave me the lube to late or not? What do you think? The last engine I had done it was about the same price but I had to bore it out, I got new pistons and a killer deal on some new heads. Not as if I have a lot of places to go to. Seems like a nice guy but who knows. Said he would put everthing together for 600. Guess it's just what you want to do. I saw a running 350 on craigs for 300? |
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