Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok so I got the cab braced up and now I have started the cab floor replacement. here are some pics along the way... Ok seems to be an issue uploading pics... I will try in a few...
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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pics
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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few more with the new panels going in....
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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couple more
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Nice job on the patching.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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I am learning this "patching" thing. I have done some minor stuff on my "69, but this one I am taking more time and no short cuts if i can avoid them. Do it right the first time (within my abilities). More pics to come... |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Well outside the smoke from the devastating fires is just unreal but I managed to do a little work on the truck this weekend so far....
Got a bunch of parts for the truck loaded into the new Old Hickory Shed |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Ok now onto the truck progress...
So i am working to get the lower cab area completed. I test fit the door and all seem good except the new lower rocker seems to be a bit too long, like 1/8" to 3/16". You can see it in the photos. When i hang the door it seems to be really good, except for this part. I am struggling with cutting the lower panel in half and then welding it back, but that may be just the amount that needs to be removed to fit right. Suggestions? |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Ok, so after test fitting the old removed plate the new one is good, i just had to "massage" it in place. It is not welded in place yet, just test fitting for now. Fits good, door gaps are decent (more work on them later) but one small issue on the back inside edge of the new cab panel, the new door is just rubbing a small bit. I tried moving the dame door hinges till i was blue in the face. To get door gaps good, it still hits, so i think i need to just do a bit of "massaging" to that one area, ie. cut and lower that section just a bit. Comments?
(see pic with black wore off) |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Thanks for the comment, it made me take another look and tada, it should be good! |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
If the door ends up hitting again, I think I would modify the door instead of the rocker.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Checking in on your progress.
Man, I hate doing bodywork. |
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I am hoping that after I get all the panels welded into place and set up, that this issue of just barely hitting the door goes away. LOL BUT if not i will look at altering that edge of the door. It is so slight.... that is why I think it is just a small adjustment with the new hinges. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I will say that the new panel that is under this cab door panel, the one with the straight down flat metal that is spot welded to the very bottom of this cab door panel is 1 - not long enough, 2 - needs to be bent towards the outside of the cab, just so i can spot weld the two together.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Well, I have made the decision that there is no way i can get all the cab body work done and in primer before weather gets too cold, so.. I just decided to get a mini-split for the shop. I have a very large window AC unit now that works ok, but its the heat that kills me. I use propane heat now and i DO NOT LIKE IT. Its a "wet" heat and the fumes are horrible, so.... 30,000 BTU, 18 Seer 240V mini-split is on the way. Sucks, but for under $1,800.00 for all, including electrical ran for it (i do install) its worth it. Also, found a really cool youtube of a guy who built a 3 bay pre filter that mounts above the main inside blower unit. This will not only protect the unit but me from bad fumes and dust. Built out of plywood and uses paper style 20"x20" filters.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
A lot of progress since I last checked in.
Aaaannndddd...my brace turned up yesterday, now only the 500 mile round trip to pick it up.... Thanks again for giving me the confidence to go ahead with the purchase, hopefully this will be the motivation I need to start pushing things along before it starts to get cold. My answer to the cold is a few extra layers and a space heater! Mind you I have just invested in a wood burner for the garage as, like you, don't like the damp heat that the diesel gives. Onwards!!! P. :D |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?
I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control. |
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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I have learned so much from so many on here, to many to honestly name, but one thing i have learned from just about all of them, take your time. |
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