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Hussey I just looked at your build and I'm still a lil confused so did you drill out the mounts then relocated them or you redrilled the conversion mounts any help is appreciated thanks guys
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Btw my s10 frame is a 1994 with the 4.3 6 banger that's coming out
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Hey Chris, so glad to see you back posting. Good news on the new shop, keep kicking butt and again welcome back...Jim
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their part #s are edelmann 92095 pressure hose and edelmann 92084 pressure hose. Maybe this will help!! Also!!! It is so good to see that you "Skymangs" are back!!! I hope the recovery is going great!! |
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Thanks for the input guys, and Chris, I'm glad to hear you are back-at least in some capacity. I ended up having a hose made, so one more project is crossed off my list.
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Welcome back Chris, hope your recovery is going well.
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Then, bolt you rubber mounts to you engine, Anchor 2713, and you're set. |
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my recovery is going as well as can be expected. Right now I'm using Dragon speak and a head mouse. I'm still in a wheelchair, but I can walk with my Walker. I was in a coma for two months so my muscles have atrophy.
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Happy to see you back! I'm one of many who truly appreciate you efforts with this swap thread. It's been an enormous help for my project!!
What blows my mind is how effortlessly you seem to make the motor fit. It took me quite a few attempts and a few different mount revisions to get my motor and transmission (and headers DOH!) to fit with out hacking up the cab. It looks like a rainy few days so I'll finally update my build thread. |
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We are in the process of following your build steps on swapping onto S10 frame. Everything has been great but we are stumped on your motor mounts. We are using the 4.3 with the standard trans. What mounts are you using on the motor side when you built the engine mounts? If we use the same brackets that are already on the motor with your engine mount design it will be a solid mount with no rubber isolation.
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I am not skymangs but I used speedway universal mount stands and chevelle 350 mounts. I could not figure how to use the stock s10 4.3 clamshell mounts without using the stock frame side mount. we did it that way on the 47 (moved the stock frame side mount back)
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...h/IMG_9742.jpg but I used the speedway universal weld in mounts and 350 70s chevelle motor mounts (4.99 any parts store) on the 49 http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/i...psvtalk3nb.jpg http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91018015_L.jpg I moved the motor 6" on the 47 and had to use an electric fan. I moved the motor 7.5 inches on the 49 to leave room for the clutch fan. |
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Nor am I Skymangs...but this is how I did mine.
S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis. The passenger side will bolt on directly. The drivers side chassis will require re-drilling the two lower holes to bolt the mount on. You can use a 1990 S10 2.8L motor mount as a guide, you'll see what I mean when you have the parts in front of you. 1990 S10 2.8L Motor Mounts bolted to the engine, Anchor brand 2436. You can also use a 1990 Corvette Motor Mount, Achor brand 2713 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...858%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N...859%252529.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I...852%252529.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...52854%2529.jpg Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L |
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hey hussey that works great for a v8 because the v8 needs to move forward on the s10 chassis when used in an s10 bodied truck so its a net 7 or 8 inch rear move with them reversed, but with a 4.3 its only 4.5" rear move and that isnt enough for the fan clutch. thats why we made our own plates for the 47, we made them just like the swap plates, for a net 6 inch rearward move, which still wasnt enough for the clutch fan.
works great for a v8 though. |
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I made the same basic mounts as Skymangs. Some 3/8 plate and some black pipe.
I pulled the 327 out of my Camaro and used it as is. The mount pads are just like the ones Joedoh posted.... although 51 years older. |
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But, in my defense of missing the 4.3 part, who would in their right mind put a V6 in their hot rod, I could see a straight-6 but a V6??? :haha: |
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both of mine have been 4.3 vortec. the LU3 is 195 HP and 260 tq. a tbi 350 is 200 HP and 300 tq. these trucks are so light, just about anything makes it a tire melter. even the 2.8 V6 and I must not be a compensater, I had a 65 fullsize with a 2.2 :lol: |
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yep, it was originally spelled s10 ride without a "w" and no one got it. "essten ride? whatinthehells that?" so I changed it from the play on words to the phonetic pronunciation, adding the w and changing the 10 to an LO. people were polarized by it, loved it or hated it. some of the coolest guys just asked questions and let me ask questions about their trucks. some guys were less impressed, and most of their trucks were still at home with big plans. I didnt care though, I didnt even put in a radio, just cruised it around for hours at a time. one more for the books. |
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Chris;;
Very glad to hear n see you up n around. Just take is slow n easy; Hope this years Holidays are better for you. Glad to hear your getting a shop going again. Happy Holidays; T-P Auto :chevy: Tim |
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Yeah, I'm up and answering any questions anyone may have. If they would just follow my build instructions exactly they would be fine. I even included pictures to make it easier.
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you are right that an external cooler runs cooler than a radiator mounted cooler but there are two reasons the rad cooler is a good idea: 1. the trans takes longer to warm up with an external cooler, and a cold trans is a sluggish trans. the engine warms up much faster and works as a trans fluid heater in warmup and freezing weather. 2. surface heat transfer works much better in fluid than air (yes air is a fluid, but a relatively weak one), the fluid allows conduction of trans fluid heat to the coolant through the body of the cooler, increasing the efficiency of the transfer. plate and fin external coolers rely on CONVECTION, convection is pretty inefficient which is why you need such a LARGE radiator or external trans cooler compared to the little tiny trans cooler mounted in the radiator. transmission damage is exponential over about 300 degrees, and your radiator cooling system can do a lot of heat transfer before it gets to even 260. a lot of guys with heavy duty trans applications will ADD a plate style trans cooler to the existing rad cooler to keep the warmup/cold weather performance and even help shed heat. my neighbor followed this advice on his tow rig and his trans temp never gets over about 200. |
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http://derale.com/products/fluid-coo...-chrome-detail |
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Great thread, it has helped a lot on my project. Now, my problem: driveshaft / pinion angle. I shortened an extended cab frame 7" to correct wheelbase. I have a 6" static drop, with an Explorer rear end, and went to a 1 piece driveshaft. I have a serious drive train vibration, and am on my second custom made driveshaft.
With all the builds you do, to you have a go-to solution? Thank you |
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http://www.rockler.com/wixey-digital...Ap4RoC7-Dw_wcB Harbor Freight sells one similar but is actually more expensive: http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...not%20provided I've heard guys say just adding a few washers to their transmission mount to correct the angle took away their drive line vibration. |
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If you have an iPhone download the Tremec Toolbox. It has a very accurate angle finder and will walk you through the three angles that matter- tranny, driveshaft and pinion. It will compare the three and let you know which one(s) needs correcting.
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Thank you both. I've learned a lot about driveline angles in the last couple days. I have it pretty much corrected. Because of the drop, the rear end pinion was above the trans tailshaft. Raised the trans 1", shimmed the pinion down
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