Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Is that only for the big blocks or did the small blocks also get this pressure increase?

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

The G/P series vans from 1995-1997 with the TBI 4.3 and TBI 350 used 28-32 PSI fuel pressure to counter vapor locking in high ambient temperatures. On a side note GM marine used the 28 psi fuel setup on the 280-315 HP 350 TBI marine engines. The marine engines also used small 45 lb/hr 4.3 injectors.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

The Blazer lives again!!!

After replacing the intake that i f*#*ed up and taking my time with all the seals and gaskets the blazer starts again.

I did buy a new IAC and reset it as described by RF i another post....nice smooth idle...600rpm

When I pushed on the gas pedal it poped and wanted to die...can this be due to lack of fuel pressure?

I have the timing set at 0TDC with the connector unpluged .

Now for the fuel pressure....

When the engine was warm and running I kinked the fuel line and the fuel pressure gauge climbed very fast past 20psi and almost to 30psi before I unkinked the line...This would tell me the problem is my fuel pressure regulator. it also had a slight "clicking" noise when the truck was not running. It seemed the noise was coming from the TBI.

I did rebuild the TBI but do not remember if the kit came with a new spring?? I looked in the box of old TBI gaskets and there was not an old spring...maybe the kit did not come with it...either way I think I need to replace it.

Can I buy just the spring or do I need a "kit"?

does anyone have a part number for the fuel pressure regulator spring?

I can finaly see the light at the end of the tunnel for my TBI retrofit and I would like to thank EVERYONE who put up with me:metal:

Thanks to cjracing15 for starting this thread and RFMaster and 68TT for all the help you guys are great..:metal:

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Well - Happy new year and congratulations!

Lets take one step at a time before jumping to quick conclusions.
After you you set base timing to 0 deg (by disconnecting EST connector) did you reset your ECM by disconnecting negative terminal from battery (with engine off)?? If not, ECM will set Code 42 every time when EST connector is opened during base timing adjustment. With Code 42 present ECM will not provide timing control and overall timing will be limited to EST module built-in timing which is fixed to about 10 deg. This is by design and allows you 'limp' home in case of a failure. Disconnect neg battery terminal for about 30 sec (this will clear ECM faults) - reconnect EST connector (single wire) and thereafter you should see about 18 to 20 degrees of timing at idle (normal operating temperature) with a typical stock calibration - ASDU, ASDZ. Verify your timing with EST connected. Popping through the TB could be due to lack of timing and not because of low fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure - stock TBI system likes 13 to 15 PSI. Do you see this with your engine idling??? Your pump appears to be capable of supplying fuel pressure - (dead head test 20 to 30 PSI seem to be excellent).

For new spring Contact Sean at http://tbiparts.com/
You can call him 217-473-4998

We'll celebrate after your first full test drive....

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Still having a fuel pressure problem :waah:

After I set the timing I did disconnect the battery and reset the codes. The truck starts and idles fine.

I called Sean and he did try to help me resolve the fuel pressure problem.

I removed the regulator from the TBI and checked the spring...it is not broken.

Sean recomended trying to adjust the spring tension be moving the screw in the regulator cup....which I did...I moved the cup up..or added tension to the spring. I also marked on the side of the cup, there is a slot with a tab sticking out, to see if it moves with the truck running. it does not move.

With the engine cold I started the truck. It started right up and idled great with a nice spray coming from the injectors.

The fuel pressure started out at ~12psi when I firsted started the truck and I could hit the gas and the rpms would increase with no hesation or falling on its face.

After running for a few minutes, maybe five, the fuel pressure slowley droped to 0psi. it took maybe 5 minutes to go to 0psi.

At 0 psi the truck still ran ok.

I changed the fuel pump and the same thing happenes. The truck seems to run fine except a backfire through the exaust that I think is due to an exaust leak.

I belive the fuel pressure gauge works ok...but I should try to test it...any sugestions? It will dead head to over 30psi so I think the gauge works.

After I checked the regulator spring it showed ~12psi...the most I have ever seen...usually it is around 7...or 0psi. It only showed 12psi after the truck sat overnight and I tried to start it the next day. If the truck sits for only a few minutes it will not go over 0-5psi.

Sean gave me a number to call and get another persons input....but I would like to know what you guys think.

Could this be caused by a vacuume leak?

Could it be because my return line is 3/8"?

Could it be from the -6an fitttinge coming off the TBI?

The fuel tank I put on the truck was used and not super clean. I did shake some rust and debris from the tank. The tank has plastic baffles in it. I replaced the sending unit so it woulld fit the used tank. I replaced the fuel filter when I did the swap, and whem I pulled the fuel pump to replace it the screen on the bottom of the pump did not appear to be cloged....could this be a problem? U ran for truck for about 30 minutes total with a new filter so I dought I could have cloged it already?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.....I am almost there.:metal:

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Just curious if you developed the pressure bleed down started after the tbi rebuild? Also, I don't know which pump your using on your build but we have had great success with THIS tbi rated fuel pump. Consistant pressure and it will take wide open throttle with no hesitation. It's kinda pricey but it was worth it on our project.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Pancake

Couple of thoughts on your fuel pressure observations.

1) 3/8" return line is just fine - I run 3/8" return line in my setups without any issues. TB fuel pressure regulator does not work well against return line back pressure.

2) Fuel pressure should be measured right next to TB inlet port. Take a look at my video:


3) Vacuum leaks do not affect fuel pressure. Fuel pressure gauge may have a air pocket that effects displayed values. -6AN = 3/8" should not affect fuel pressure.

4) Clogged Fuel filter or fuel sock - that may affect fuel pressure and volume.

Can post photos of your setup - how you routed fuel lines???

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Do you have any rubber fuel lines in the system?

I have seen them work fine when cold but kink when they warmed up. Makes for some interesting trouble shooting.

Is your pump in the tank or in-line? It could be a loose connection between the pump and the supply line to the TB at the pickup if it is in-tank. It is a rubber hose and could be losing its prime through the leak and/or losing pressure through the leak and gets worse as the pump heats up.

Just some thoughts based on problems I have encountered.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

I do have rubber fuel lines in the system...the are rated for fuel injection and connect the tank to 3/8 alluminum line and from the alluminum lint to the TBI. The tank sits in the bed of the Blazer and the alluminum feul line is ran daow the fram rail to the fire wall tyhe goes to rubber. The line is not kinked anywhere...I checked.

My pump is in tank and new...I tried to switch the pump with no luck. There is a new sending unit with new hose and good fuel injection fittings.

I put the fuel gauge is by the Brake booster...between the booster and TBI....the gauge sits about 12" from the TBI, same place as RFmasters gauge

I did not know what the fuel pressure was before the swap ...I ran a carb and carter fuel pump.

After calling Brian Harrris at Harris preformance he told me to try a new spring...he said when the spring warms up it could lose pressure....I ordered a new spring from Sean.

If this does not work I might get a new fuel tank...change the filter and fuel pump screen and clean out the fuel line.

I am out of town right now but will be home this weekend and will take some pictures and post them.

Thanks for the input :metal:

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

I think it may be related to fuel tank elevation relative to the throttle body.

This non-stock configuration may need a helper pump to keep the pressure up.

If you can't lower the tank to below the bed try adding an in-line EFI pump to help pressurize the system and get the air out of the lines.

You never know what kind of weird things will happen when something as simple as the fuel tank elevation is changed.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

when I kink the fuel line by the TBI the gauge goes to over 30psi....do you still think it could be a tank placement problem?

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Something weird is going on and that is the only thing that stands out. You have done everything else to eliminate the variables.

Pick up a Walbro in-line high pressure EFI pump and add it to the system. If things don't get better just sell the pump to somebody on the board and try something else.

Mount it below the fuel tank so it is gravity fed after getting primed.

You won't lose much if any money on the deal and it will help troubleshoot the issue. It may just fix the problem and you won't have to mess with the fuel tank position.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Ok...thanks for the input...I did order a new spring for the fuel regulator...If that does not help I will get the feul pump.

I really cant move the tank to the stock position because I moved the rear axel back 6" and there is no room for it.....it also is safer in the bed...lots of rocks seem to get wedged under the truck ;)

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Pancake

From your descriptions it appears that fuel pressure readings are slowly dropping over a relatively short period of time. Before hacking anything - place a DVM and measure voltage at fuel pump (at gas tank). Lets make sure that there is no excessive voltage drop anywhere in your wiring (or change in operating voltage). A bad fuel pump relay (worn, pitted contacts) with excessive contact resistance (or a bad wire joint, bad crimp) may be the source of your FP problems. A healthy pump should draw between 2 to 4 amps (depending on the model, back pressure and supply voltage).

By all accounts your present in tank fuel pump should do the trick. However if you are thinking about swapping in tank FP I would go with AC Delco EP-241 (TPI/LT1 rated) should do the trick.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

I may be wrong...but, I really don't think it is related the spring. You said it was losing pressure during idle. You should be able to hold consistant pressure all the way to WOT with the right pump.

Follow the steps RF and 68 laid out and you will most likely find the problem. these guys are really good...should get paid for their help....my 2 cents.


RFmaster,
I forgot how cool your video is, had to watch it again!

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Thanks - I am planning to put together a driving video. This will take a bit more work as I would like to show a cold start, street and highway driving around SoCal. It will take a bit of work and editing.

But first we got to get pancake problem solved....

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Fuel pressure update....

I measured voltage at the pump....14 volts when I first start it and the gauge reads 10psi.....5 minutes later when the gauge reads 0psi there is still 14 volts at the pump. There is no voltage drop at the pump, warm or cold.

Took the truck for a short drive, just around the block because there is no plate or lights on it...strictly off road, and it ran fine...no hesation or stumbling.

I am thinking that it may be a bad fuel pressure gauge?

The pressure does climb when I pinch the supply or return line at the TBI.

Will replace the spring when it gets here just because the other one is old and I don't want to waste the srping.

I think I will get another gauge and see if that is the problem...if that does not work I will try a in-line pump added to the system.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Pancake

FWIW - Low cost fuel pressure gauges ($12- to $20) are notorious for false readings. It is just a luck of the draw - some are good, and some are just outright junk. I simply got lucky with mine from Summit. The only way to validate this 'theory' is to get a FI test gauge from reputable company (MAC, Snap-On, Actron CP7817 and many others) and test fuel pressure. You can rent FI test gauge from better auto parts stores. Do this check before spending time and money on inline pump.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Fuel presure issue solved:metal:

Cheap Summit fuel gauge was to blame. I went to Auto-Zone and rented/borrowed their gauge and tested my Blazer, right at 12.5 PSI at idle.

I let it run for about 10 minutes and still 12.5 PSI. I will be getting another/better gauge soon.:lol:


On a side note....

I have a 83 GMC 1 ton long bed with a fresh 8.1 (bored and stroked 454 to a 496) to tow my blazer to the trails. It has a 16 gallon fuel tank and I have to stop regulary to fill it on long trips. I just pulled a 32 Gallon fuel cell from the Blazer when I did the TBI retrofit. I was thinking about putting the fuel cell in the 83 for long trips but was wondering the best way to transfer the fuel from the fuel cell to the fuel tank. I thought I could use a transfer pump like DirtyLArry showes on the secound page of this thread but I dont want to over fill my 16 gallon tank.

Any ideas?

Thanks again for the help with the TBI....I am sure I will have more questions when I put a TH400 in place of the SM465.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Well those cheapo fuel gauges! You are not the first nor the last one to be had by them.

Regarding 16G tank - I am some what surprised since '83 is a long bad and should have had a 20G tank(s) in place. 16G were installed on the 1/2T short beds. The 454 has a good appetite so having auxiliary tank is almost mandatory. I would build a transfer pump setup with overflow return line. This way if 16G is full to capacity excess fuel is returned back to aux tank.

BTW 20G tanks are in this photo:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...t/Photo023.jpg

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

I've been lurking on this thread for a bit, watching the progress. :metal: I just wanted to say that my '83 High Sierra K2500 (originally a 350 truck) has dual 16s in it. We had an '86 C2500 Camper Special w/454 that had dual 20s.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

The thread has been a bit quiet - so as promised here is the 'drive video'.

Background:
My friend - Carmine has old Mazda 323 (great for part chancing and grocery runs), but the automatic gave out the ghost (I had to tow it back to his house). Rebuilding transmission was deemed too expensive (over $1000), but a good, used $300 trany is a cost effective solution. Long story short found a good trany and this video was captured during our Saturday morning run to JY.



Last 1.5 minutes in this video is on a return leg back home cruising at 65mph taching at 2250 RPM, while WBO (Zeitronix ZT-2) is showing 16.2:1 lean cruise. Can not do that with Carb.

Video editing with Vegas 6.0, Camera - Panasonic PV-GS250.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Nice video RFmaster;)

A quick question,

I am having a slight backfire through the exaust...can this be caused by a leaking collector gasket? If not...what should I look at?

It does it a idle and it is slight but it is there.

Thanks.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Hmmmm - can you record audio or video of this backfire? My truck has a 'gurgling' sound when engine is cold (at idle), which IMHO is normal since ECM keeps mixture on the rich side (12.5:1) slowly leaning mixture as engine coolant warms up. Under these conditions there is some un-burned fuel getting into exhaust system causing occasional 'gurgle' like sound. Once engine is warm and in close loop CL no funny sounds other than deep rumble comes out the back. I also get this gurgle like sound under deceleration - with throttle closed and high vacuum engine just sucks all the pooled fuel out of the intake manifold resulting in a very rich mixture - you can see this on WBO display!

In your instance it could be due to a combination of a rich mixture and exhaust leak - I am speculating here. Exhaust leaks have that ticking sound (sounds like a lifter) which corresponds to a leaking cylinder on a exhaust cycle. Headers are notoriously prone to leaks (gaskets get shot and bolts back out). Look for carbon traces - this indicates a spot where exhaust gases escape. Header to head flange, collector to main pipe are two locations I would closely examine for leaks, gaskets, etc.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

AWESOME VId and truck! RF, Your truck looks much better than the tiny avatar shows! Hey man couple of questions, Where did you score the sweet cluster? Is it from a Burb or blazer? what vintage? How much was the Zeitronics device? What funtions will it perform? thanks,

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Hey Mike - You guys did well with your conversion. Now, only if I can convince my lady that I need a new hmm-hmmm toy!

The story behind my Tach cluster is rather long. Couple years ago I was monitoring e-vil bay for tach equipped clusters for my truck. At one time I even considered doing camaro tach install into a non tach cluster, but after getting all the pieces and mocking them up for a trial fit I was not happy with end results.
From what I can tell most tach equipped clusters that come up for sale are for later 76+ trucks. What annoys me even more is that too many unscrupulous sellers state that cluster will fit 73-86 trucks! Yes, physically they may drop in, but electrically get ready for a fire show! In one auction I was able to determine that this cluster had an ammeter, which is rare since 75 tach equipped cluster is unique. The bid went my way - I practice snipping on e-vil bay. When I got cluster it was wreck - flex circuit was busted in several places and traces were burned. One of the plastic mounting tabs was busted and several others were cracked! Needless to say I was not too happy, but the tach was in good shape (and fully functional). To boot, the lens was yellow like corn. In the end I spent boat load of money to get this cluster into shape. Speedometer was serviced and calibrated by a local spedo shop, I ordered new flex circuit (75 only), new lens and rebuild broken mounting tabs. Instead of 161 bulbs I installed LED's, but they have turned out to be disappointingly dim and I am thinking about change over to brighter ones.

Installation was completed during XMAS of 08.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture043.jpg

Left mounting tab was broken and I had to improvise by replaced it with a 90 deg aluminum tab. At the same time a rebuilt tilt steering column...

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture041.jpg

... and a dash pad along with few other minor items were installed.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture023.jpg


Since I always want to know how and what my engine is doing Zeitronix ZT-2 was acquired couple years ago. Let me start by saying that it is not cheap, but it is worth it in the long run especially if you are trying to alter ECM programing to accommodate performance engine requirements, alter fueling tables, change timing, disable unwanted functions, etc. ZT-2 (in conjunction with a laptop) can also act as a data logging system by capturing engine parameters, for example, engine RPM, MAP, TPS, EGT along with AFR and dumping it all into a data file for further analysis. It gets very interesting when you see how engine performs under various operating conditions. For info visit their website:

http://www.zeitronix.com/

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

RF,
Thanks for the explaination on the cluster and pics. That is exactly what I'm afraid of buying one from ebay. I still don't know if I can make it work but am thinking of trying anyway. Right now I don't even care about the tach as much as a speedo. 91 burb and jimmy clusters (some of them) have electronic speedos. I hope to make one of them work.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Mike
For 90's cluster swap info I would check out FSC. IRC there were couple of threads that dealt with swapping later fully electronic clusters into early 90's burbans. I just do not recall right of hand. It all depends which cluster you want to end up in the end. I just could not stand any longer looking at that huge fuel gauge needle swinging in front of me. Even if you get a busted tach cluster fixing it is not that bad. Electronic spedo should be considered since VSS is built into it solving that pesky problem.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

The guys on thirdgen.org have figured out what breaks on the tachs and how to fix them as well as getting them calibrated better (more accurate readings) and also to make a six cylinder tach read right for a V-8.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Hello again, been awhile.

Finally got the blazer running well. Took it out four wheeling for a "test drive" and did ok there, but coming back it had issues.

I adjusted the fuel pressure to ~12.5 psi and made sure everything was tight.
It had two codes when I got back 44 and 24. 24 is the VSS. I do not have a neutral safety switch hooked so I think that is why I got that code.

44 is lean 02 sensor....I tightened up everything and seems to work fine.

Only concern I have is to run good the timing is at ~ 12 BTDC. I tried to set it at 0 TDC but it would backfire through the exhaust and run very poor.

Is 12 BTDC to much? Is there something else I should be looking at?

Thanks for the help.:metal:

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Hi Pancake

From above it looks like Code 44 was due to exhaust leak which you took care - is that correct???

Timing the TBI system. This is where a lot of people get tripped by ECM controlled ignition system. I am going to assume that you are running 7747 ECM with ASDU calibration. TBI base timing is set with EST connector open! This connector has just one wire (usually tan/white) and hides by the brake booster in OE installation. With connector open the ECM does not control timing - this is when base or initial timing is set. ASDU calibration has initial timing set 0 deg BTDC. The actual and calibration timing values must match! When you open EST set connector idle speed will drop down and engine may have difficulty idling, but since dizzy does not have spring weights idle speed at which you are checking has no effect on initial timing. Once you set base timing shut down engine reconnect EST set connector and clear ECM by disconnecting negative battery terminal. Re start engine and take a look at your idle timing. ASDU calibration has timing tables in the idle RPM/MAP range with 20 to 24deg. This is not a final value since other operational factors may alter the final timing value being sent to dizzy. Usually, I see idle timing bouncing between 18 to 22 degrees in a fully warmed engine.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Yes I belive I fixed the exhaust leak.

For the timing...I unplug the connector, set the timing at O tdc and turn engine off. Re-connect the connector, disconect the battery, wait 30 sec. and re-connect the battery. This is how I set base timming?

After I do this the truck runs like crap- backfires and has no power...it is un-drivable.

My question is......After setting base timing should I adjust the timming so the truck runs right or should the computer do that?

Thanks for the help.:metal:

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

OK yes that's the correct procedure for setting timing. You do not need to re-adjust after wards (unless your SA tables have been altered from stock). I am going to ask obvious question - is your 0 degree TDC mark on harmonic balancer correct? All too often old, high millage OE balancer have outer ring slip resulting in incorrect timing (and engine vibration). New aftermarket balancers may have timing mark in non stock location - so you have to find and verify TDC.

Just in case remind me your engine details - stock, aftermarket cam - specs, balancer details.

Also which ECM and calibration you are using?

Stock timing tab uses 2 deg steps and big notch is 0 deg:
______________
/
\ 8 deg BTDC
/
\
/ 6 deg BTDC
\
\
/ 0 deg TDC
/
\
/
\______________

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

I would start by verifying TCD of the crank is at TDC on the timing tab / balancer with a positive piston stop like you would do to degree a cam.

This will let you know the parts match and that the outer ring has not slipped and is out of orientation.

It wouldn't be the first time a timing cover and balancer were mismatched to the vintage of crank on a small block.

I have come across this several times. Old block & crank with newer timing cover or balancer.

One the TDC mark is at 12 o'clock and the other it is at about 2 o'clock. Don't ask me why they changed designs.

My Malibu was this way when I got it. 1969 short block with 1979 balancer or timing cover. Timing was about 30 degrees off and it wouldn't run at all when timed "right" by the timing marks.

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

The engine is a 350ci with a TH400 behind it. It has headers with a 4 wire 02 sensor, TBI abapter plate with no EGR.

7747 ECM with ASDU calibration

Cam shaft is Summit® Camshafts
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 252/ 262, Lift .398/ .420, Chevy, Small Block

as for the balancer...it is stock and and so is the timing cover. I will have to see if the outer ring has slipped ...but I don't think so because when I was setting the dizzy I had it at TDC on #1 (with valve cover off and spark plug removed) and the balancer verified that.

I will recheck it.

I did not alter the SA tables and I dont think the previous owner did ( it was stock)

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

wow! this is truly amazing STICKY!

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Pankake

I looked up your cam on Summit Racing (K1101) - it is a mild (improvement over stock TBI cam) and stock ASDU calibration should be able to handle it, but it is always a good idea to dial in VE and SA tables to get best possible performance out of your engine as no two engines are alike. One issue that you'll have to face down the (off) road - is EGR disable when you get VSS installed and functioning. Since your application is for for off-road use EGR will hardly provide any benefits (no steady driving, etc).

Getting back at you current problem. Do simple checks first. In TBI system ECM controls timing. As I have mentioned before at idle, 650 RPM, timing should be bouncing between 17 to 22 deg. As you bring RPMs up timing should advance - with no load on engine timing should be climb to about 30 deg around 2200-2800 RPM. The easiest way to do this check is to have timing light with timing retard control. Now - these numbers are just ball park figures as ECM is performing over a dozen timing calculations 80 times per second.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

Is there anyway to eliminate the EGR from the harness. When you dont need emissions. with out the ses light coming on?

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

A simple answer is NO. Disconnecting EGR control solenoid and eliminating harness connector will result in SES coming on with a stock EPROM calibration, for example ASDU. Unlike pre-computer (aka ECM) EGR operation is validated by ECM. Depending on BCC there are several verifications methods employed by ECM to verify EGR activation and its effect on the engine operation. The most common, after engine reaches normal operating temperature (above 47.5C), with steady TPS above idle, ECM will briefly command EGR to 100% duty cycle while monitoring MAP voltage. When EGR goes to 100% duty cycle intake manifold vacuum will drop and MAP voltage increases. ECM is looking for this drop for EGR test validation. After couple attempts at this ECM will set SES light if MAP fails to increase (lower vacuum reading).

The only way to de-activate EGR is to increase EGR enable temperature in EPROM calibration tables from 47.5C to maximum 155C. This way ECM will never be able to enable EGR operation and self test will never run. This modification requires custom EPROM and unless you know how to do this I suggest that you contact Bryan at TBIchips if you have no ability to burn your own EPROM chips.

http://www.tbichips.com/

Hacking harness will not get you there.

//RF

Re: Tbi swap build thread
 

So it will run but the ses light will always be on or it wont run? How to you burn your own chips?