Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Or, do a roll-bar so you have anchor points & have your boom-box idea incorporated into the cage structure as part of it's mounting structure. Skip the pass-through idea. Plate & gusset the cab as required for proper roll-bar anchoring.

That combo won't stiffen the chassis (make it better) but it would offer/increase 'roll-over' protection but even then your head can hit the hoop which defeats the purpose. This is why street cars should not have cages.... because you're not wearing an approved helmet on the street like you are @ the track.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Great points.
This is exactly what i was talking about earlier in my little rant. This is the best example of how to respond to a crazy idea that i had but in a very constructive way! So I really appreciate you for that. You saved me from a major mistake and did so in a constructive way.

i swear i owe a few of you on here a drink or two some day... LOL

I am going to get the seats mounted and test fitted and see what i have to work with after that. Then go with idea on roll bar or maybe just a Harness bar, or maybe no bar....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Update of Seats mounted

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

more:

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

few more with measurements...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

and yet more... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

last batch.... lol

Sits really nice not to tall, and the steering wheel should have plenty of room. Sit back a good distance also, so all in all should work good.

I am thinking about install just a single loop for the Shoulder Harness attachments, then sub box in between that.... make more measurements this weekend and get an official plan then...
But taking any suggestions and or comments.....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well seems like i may have some additional time at home for about 10 days..... damnit... yes, I tested Positive for Covid. I was helping whom i call my sister and her husband move furniture for new carpet and her brother does not help moving, but is there and well now they all have it, I got tested and poof... Positive... damnit. With that said, so far and it is have been a few days, I am not to bad... a bit tired and beat, somewhat dry cough and that feeling of helplessness because there is nothing you can really do unless you are really bad off but just work through it... So, that is what i am doing. Not sure what or how much i can do on the truck, but i will try to do what i can.

Idea is to get the cab ready for good base high build primer and get main body work done... Then get inside cab ready for POR15 on floor, then sound mat installed, then inside paint done... So God willing, I will get some of that done in the next 7 to 10 days....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Bummer deal....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

yep... but what can you do... Pray it all goes good... God has it now...

So far, nothing to bad....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, doing way better now after my little stint with Covid (Little rat bastard).... Anyways, sorry had to do a little venting...


Ok, so I had time to look and i found that someone makes a "Smooth" Cowl panel for the truck.. 1966. I need and want that because a.) i will have Vintage Air in the truck and then i want to use that open space where the kick panel vents are for open air space for a set of 6" mids. and i do not want water in there. so with that said, anyone install one? If so where did you get it?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Glad you're doing better. Had to take my daughter in for a test after her coworker came to work for 3 more days after testing positive so she wouldn't miss a pay check. Grr.

Have you considered the panels that go in the rear corners of the cab for speakers? Brothers makes an insert panel you can put there. I used to have a F*&d with speakers in the kick panels. I could never keep my big ass feet from beating on the speaker grills when I got in or out, shifted, Hi Beam Low Beam etc. Especially with work boots on.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I have to be honest. I am install a sub box back in that area with 10" JL Audio's and then for the front i am running a set of JS Audio's mids and tweets and will be putting them in a custom kick panel. I have huge feet as i am not a small guy, but i am going to try to do this and leave alone the are flat to the floor, in other words try to pick up the Mid speaker a good bit so that the high beam is still accessible and such. I can so see your point with kicking the speakers all the time. lol large feet suck for that.
For what i want and sound i am going after, I want to try this and see how it goes. If it fails I will go that route.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Glad to hear your doing ok! I'll be watching to see what you come up with. My plan is to use a sundown 8" behind the seat with a set of Hertz Mille 2 ways or maybe 3 ways somewhere powered by a pair of JL amps mostly because I have all those items sitting in boxes in the garage that I've been intending to put in my daily for the last two years and haven't gotten around to it yet lol.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Glad you are feeling better...

I inquired a few months ago about the smooth cowl and didn't get much feedback. One person replied and said it fit well. I am interested in getting one also...I either will eventually get one or put some kind of screen under the holes in the cowl...If you get one please post how you like it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I'm w/them.... Glad your recovery is going well.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks, i am not going to it was easy... it sucked but feeling way better just feels way better. lol

Dang, nice to have the just lying around. LOL If i was you i would use what you have. I have only a 400Watt Mono amp now, so that will power the JL W1 10" Subs. Rest of the stuff will all be JL Audio.
Pics will certainly be coming.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Oh ya, i will. I plan to order one in the next few days. When i get it i will pic and tell ya about it. They are not cheap we can start there, but i like the "unique" idea and saves from water getting near speakers or in more places to rust.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thank you sir. On the mend now. Pray none of you get it, that you are all safe from it. nasty little terd it is.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, so here is a layout for the speaker box for the back, 3/4" MDF

Gotta love having access to AutoCad at work....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

If my math is correct, that looks like about 0.75ft2 per sub. That's pretty small for a ported box - is that what these subs require?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Thanks for checking my math. So i went in and rechecked it and I get .89 sq ft per sub still. Used Rockford Fosgates calc and an independent one, both came up with .89. I tried inside dimensions and outside to verify and they both checked out. Each enclosure is 25" wide, 8" deep bottom, 4" deep top and stands 16" tall. These are outside dimensions - so inside dimensions would be 23.5" wide, 6.5" deep bottom, 2.5" deep top, 14.5" tall.

So the JL-Audio 10" W1v3 subs each require on a ported box .90 cubic feet or air, so i am just under that and knowing my wood cutting, i will be just over .90 cubic feet.... lol. Just for me i sent my design of the box into JL Audio and asked them what they thought. My only real issue is the port volume and size. I am trying to match what they have for volume and i think i am close. I am waiting on their response.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Did you subtract the volume of the port, and the volume of the sub from the enclosure volume?

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I've used WinISD for designing boxes. Fun to play with, and it's free. http://www.linearteam.org/

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Funny i say all this and SkinnyG you got me thinking i better look a bit closer into this. so i am now. lol Thanks for checking in! Always good to verify what you are thinking...

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This is exactly what i am looking at now and no i did not. LOL
I really appreciate the help here!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

DAMN! just loaded this, this is awesome! I am not messing around with it. Thank you brother, i really appreciate this!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

SkinnyG I stand corrected, you are correct. The actual volume of each box is .75 cubic Ft of air space. This is a small amount and may just be to little for a ported box, damnit, but ok for sealed box. Looks like sealed box is what i will be doing....

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I'd run either two 10's in a sealed box as big as you can fit, or a single 10 in a ported box. They'd both likely play about as loud each.

Sealed they'd play pretty tight and handle good power. I'd wire them in parallel to 2 ohms and feed them with a Class D mono sub amp.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Actually, so i redid the calc and I go back to my orginal statement that .89 cubic ft is the calc. I did get your number, and what i found is that if you are taking the box wedge design and split it into one box and one box cut in half to be a two triangles, you will use the box design outside numbers minus the board thickness of .75 x 2 BUT on the first box the bottom dimension is only 1 board thickness of .75. This will then get you the .89 rather than the .75.
not sure this makes sense, but i did the calc by hand then with two different software's and it comes up to .89.
Now with that said, i must take away the Speaker Volume.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So with your thoughts here is the plan - I have a Lightning Audio LA-400M = 400 Watt Mono amp - to drive the the two 10-W1.v3 Subs. Now after looking at the numbers now i am thinking that maybe I Switch over to 12" W1.v3 in this box ported. I really prefer a ported box honestly.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This is what I did:

Trapezoid inside dimensions

((a+b)/2)x(h)x(w)

((6.5 + 2.5)/2)x(14.5)x(48.5) /12/12/12

1.83 ft3

/2

0.9ft3

3x2.75x20 /12/12/12 (rough estimate of port area)

0.1ft3

sub: 0.05ft3 (typical)

0.9-0.1-0.05 = 0.75ft3 - but actually slightly smaller because I didn't take into account the separator board in the middle.

I ran both volumes through WinISD and there isn't a massive difference between the two. It will work. At .75 the box is tuned a few Hz higher.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok I get it, You get the same .89 or .9 BUT i did not remove the port area... lol i get it. i am so dumb sometimes. Sorry for being such a dummy. lol
I was a bit lost in the program on where to enter all parameters for the box though.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

you know eventually i will stop this madness, lol. Ok, so after some thought i forgot that i have abandoned the idea of the using the shoulder harness bar, so that allows me to go up to 18" in height. After doing the calcs as you SkinnyG showed, i would end with .90 cubic ft of airspace for the two vented 10" subs, this is increasing the height to 18" and excluding the vent space. The calcs according to JL Audio appears that they want Volume Net Int. to be .90 Cubic Feet. Looking at their suggested ported box with vent i am very close. so not i am looking at maybe going 1" longer on base just to get a bit more volume.
LOL i am killling myself here, but this is what happens when you are anal about things and you have been locked up in the house for almost 2 weeks.... lol Sorry about all my confusion SkinnyG! I will owe you one... two ... three... lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

No worries. We all learned our knowledge from somewhere. Spread the love to the next guy.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

There are other ways to affect the way a bass reflex enclosure is tuned that is not directly related to volume. By varying the amount of polyfill that you use within the box, you can simulate a larger enclosure and achieve performance results that match a larger box with less fill.

In other words, while there is absolutely a precision level of science to all of this, which SkinnyG has so proficiently demonstrated, you also have some wiggle room with the size of your enclosure which complements the science with duct tape and bandaids.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I do plan on installing poly fill. Thanks for the comments.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Here is the box so far

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So after the great advice from SkinnyG, i redid a few of the dimensions, of course after cutting the front piece and now i need a complete new sheet, but live and learn. After all calculations are in, the box ended at free air (not including the vent) of 1.18 cubic Ft. Then taking the vent at .11 cubic ft from the i ended up with 1.07 cubic ft of air space per sub. I will be adding poly fill also to increase the "air Space" a small amount, but overall i am happy with it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Very cool. I have a similar slot port box in my '77 with a single 12".

There is talk that a "slot" port like that will act a little lower than a regular port in an "open" box, as the "walls" the port uses extend the tuning frequency lower than the actual "port wall" itself is cut to. I think you add half the port height/width to the tune length, but I've forgotten exactly.

However,

It's going to thump awesome. It'll work.

I'd stuff some poly fill in there regardless.