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I still can't decide if I should try to cut the grooves in my $280 pulley myself of take to a machine shop. She's an eight ribber. So I played with doing it today on a piece of scrap. I have the specs. It's 40 degrees with a .015 radius and spaced at .140. I have a bunch of cobalt tools that I bought off ebay and found one close that I ground at 40 degrees and then fit it to the other pulleys. If I take it in they are going to want $100-$200 and take a week or two to do it. I think I can pull this off with a little more practice. I got some chatter but haven't set the speed right yet and probably should come in at 39 degrees or something instead of straight. I'm going to order a Gates belt for comparison while I make it. I'm just using a piece of tape to measure it. I hope that works. It looks like I have about 120 degrees contact on all the pulleys. Is that enough for the alternator? I was hoping by going 8 rib to avoid a tensioner. Thank you for your time.
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Re: What did you do with your truck today, Part 3
Personally, I would do it myself if I had the lathe. You will get much less chatter from the real part if you can use an inside chuck on the pulley.
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With all the bling you've got going on, it has to shine! I'd call too, to be sure what the part finish is, but I'm 90% sure it's powder coated. Maybe someone here could chime in on the best way to remove powder coat, or YouTube it. I'm sure you know this, but don't over-clamp the part and distort it. Be sure also that the pulley will be beefy enough after the machining. |
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Bath time and some cruising, it hasn’t been out of the garage since October...
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Re: What did you do with your truck today, Part 3
I didn't get any work done but I ordered A Gates regular quality 8 rib K style mini V-belt for mock up and sizing. From McMaster Carr I ordered some stainless steel countersunk hex bolts for the water pump and an 82 degree spiral cut countersink bit for the mill. Also a 3'/8" to 5/16" bushing for the alternator. I'm not sure where my blower belt ends up but the bolt heads sticking out of the water pump pulley would possibly impede on that plane. I contacted the pulley company and found out it has a type 3 anodizing. I called a local anodizing shop about stripping and recoating it black when I get done messing it up. They also said it wont damage my tooling. I contacted the acoustic glass manufacturer to find out where to send the patterns so they can make my glass. Just a normal do nothing day. One off is so much fun. I think probably most people don't realize how much time is spent on this stuff. Be polite and beg if necessary and most people are quite helpful. Thank you for your time.
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Re: What did you do with your truck today, Part 3
put the front and side hood emblems on. it was a mess. i fabricated some new mounting straps to replace the bent up originals. looks good now
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I received my belt and practiced my grooving technique some more yesterday. I'm feeling more confident now. Hopefully my bolts and countersink come today. I also got my bushing for the alternator. The water pump bolt is 5/16" and the alternator bolt is 3/8".
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Don't leave the peaks so sharp that they cut your belt.
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Mick53 here is what you need.
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The water pump pulley I'm adapting I believe is for a reverse rotation Ford application. The hole for the shaft is 3/4" on the spacer with countersink and 5/8" on the water pump so I made this adapter.
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im working on getting my cab sealed up. slow and steady. i have a nice firewall cover to put in but i need to get some hush mat installed first
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Getting some satin clear on
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I have been working on my water pump pulley. I started cutting the grooves and it did not go well. I had a really hard time cutting the first groove and stopped before I messed it up. I worked on the front and let the problem stew in my little brain. I was ready to take it in when it occurred to me That the tool may be dragging on the pulley due to not enough relief cut on the tool. I will have to set it back up and take a look at it. I think it may have worked on the test piece due to the smaller diameter. Still rolling that around in my little brain. I countersunk the new bolts in the front of the pulley so they didn't project into the blower belt plane. There are 8 holes (2 bolt patterns) so I had to fill them all up. I cut .300" off the stainless steel bolts and chamfered them because I'm a civilized man. My lathe is super cool for cutting bolts. Of course I had to sand and polish them for aerodynamic reasons. I still need to take about .040" off the pulley spacer. I'll do that last. I may try to make a new tool and try to complete the grooving or puss out and take it in. Thank you for your time.
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Dang that sure outdoes my measuring some doors to see where I am going to cut them to take two and make a longer one.
The wind is blowing so hard here that is a pain to try to do anything outside today. |
Re: What did you do with your truck today, Part 3
mick53 if your tool height is correct, it looks like it is more of a speed issue, 2024 cuts differently then 7075. I do this 8 hours a day 5-7 days a week.
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if using high speed steel it would be 324-388rpm Jim W |
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trying to identify the 12 bolt truck rear axle thats in my '49. I know there should be an id number on the axle tube behind the right rear wheel but 70 + years of grease and crap and i cant find it. wire wheel doesnt cut it. may have to take the axle out and media blast it. all this to figure out what drum brakes i have in the rear.
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Jim W |
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Thanks for the link. I did figure out that there is a serial number (? ) on the front of the right axle tube. my problem is the many years of grease and dirt covering it up. looks like next weekends project is to soak the area with brake clean and take a wire wheel to it. hopefully i can find the number.
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For extra credit, media blast the front of the right tube while it's in the car. Good Luck! |
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Hey dransport, if you dont mind the smell, spray a little diesel on the area and let it soak. Castrol super clean works well too. If you get it cleaned but find it hard to make the numbers out try a quick coat of lacquer, let it dry, then use a fine file lightly over the area, or sandpaper on a wood block. This removes the paint from the tube but leaves the paint in the divets made from the number stamps. It has worked for me before for things like this.
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I think I'm ready to try again. One of the problems I had with the 4 jaw chuck was getting it tight enough to suit me without deforming it. I went back to the 3 jaw because it lines up with the spokes (6) in the pulley. I also made this thing to hold it against the chuck for piece of mind. I figure if it slips it might not destroy itself and me. I also made a new and improved tool. Nothing left but the doing. I have .004" runout.
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Well I haven't failed yet because I haven't given up. It is now a quest. Here's what I know. Pulley is 6061 aluminum. Coating is type 3 anodizing .002"-.004" thick. The tool bits I'm using are not some overseas sweat shop steel they are repurposed Armstrong high speed cobalt. I think it's pretty hard stuff. The test pulley I made is 6061 aluminum. It cut it like butter. The same tool worked terribly on the first groove on the real pulley. After looking at it I thought I forgot to put a relief cut on the front of the tool. The manufacturer and the anodizing company both told me that machining the finish was no problem. After thinking about it they have probably never done it. I sanded the finish off the face for countersinking and it was a nightmare. It laughed at aircraft stripper and we get the good stuff here. I spent a lot of time making the second tool and was quite proud of it. I checked my tool height and set my RPM's. I ran it in and it Angelina Jolie'd itself and was gone in 60 seconds.
it barely scratched the surface, more like a dent. I took an insert tool and came in from the side at .005" and shaved it off. Gone baby gone. I ordered a nice grinding wheel and some HHS tool bits, probably from a sweat chop overseas. Sorry so long. Thank you for your time. |
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I am a little concerned about the .004" runout. I could see that causing a resonance at some RPM if the grooves are not concentric with the O.D. of the pulley, and with the shaft that it's mounted on. |
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That should do it. Looks like you're ready to soldier on!
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I finished my water pump pulley! I'm calling it a big win. It seems my problem all along was the coating. This is the first time I made a lathe tool from scratch. I used a jewelers file and 500 grit sandpaper to radius the tops and deburr it. Thanks for everyone's advice and support. A special thanks to idbeast. I still need to have it anodized black but they have a $100 minimum so I might wait until I have more to take in.
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Impressive work!! Top notch :)
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