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Re: The Snortin' bull
Is that the bolt that holds the box to the frame?
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That doesn't look familiar too me. Is your power steering the original ram style? All I have ever dealt with is the later model power steering boxes that have been added on.
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For whatever reason I didn't see it as the mounting tab for the box. I guess I am getting old. :hh:;) |
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the last few week's the bull and I been out runnin' around. A half dozen show's and just about 1500 mile's on the clock now.I noticed at nite time people didn't seem to see me from behind well. I now have brightened it up with led taillamp's. I still have not got to installing my frt sway bar.
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And just for fun. a friend of mine sent some pictures of this truck.Crazy
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I wonder if he can smoke them? :lol:
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He would need 5.14 rear gears with the granny 4spd to do any tire spinning with that
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Came across this burb. Or what is left of it.Still in a driveway of a home. The pacific ocean salt air has ate away most of it. There was a perimeter pile of rust on the ground under it.Long beach Wa.
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R.I.P. :waah:
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LED update for front lamp's also now.Found some nice frt. socket's with a ground tab to have a good constant ground at NAPA. Full body led bulb's.Like mini chandelier's from another vendor.
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Looks great, would you mind giving me a part number? I'd like to do that with my 60 gmc hood
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No problem, Napa socket # ls6469 for frt, in the rear is used lmc led lamp boards . You must use a no load flasher with led lamps , CEC #ef32rl. And have good ground and circuits for all to work well. If you dnt change frt and rear to led you can use a standard flasher though will have to wire in led resistors at the one end to allow flash to function.
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One item that has bugged me from the beginning with Accuair is that there are two mini fuse's attached right to the main control very closely wired. Even though I made the bed open to access all I just thought it would be a better inside the cab.
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One detail I did was to put the bed as forward to the cab as I could .As the frame has no flex. It is one of the point's people notice alot .The gap between the cab to bed .
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Gap looks way better now, almost like a unibody
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:agree:
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Hood alignment.So when I first got this truck it had the cab on the frame the rest was loose.As most of you that have been thru this the hood is a bugger to get aligned and to sit right.After a couple of hour's I finally got it . Sit's flush and flat.Latche's work flawlessly.
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The rear diff. started to leak and spot every where, Found that the axle tube's to housing as well as all the factory plug weld's where weeping .Cleaned these , welded and sealed them up.I also made sure the vent is still clear
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Some more minor electrical . I would like to put in a stereo.ONE that is Bluetooth,usb,ipod etc.Though not to be seen and there is a hole in the dash as the P.O had hacked it. And sticking with the original plan I used all the existing drilled holes in the dash as I am going to with this. Now you see it now you don't.
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In the Seattle rain the wiper motor siexed up on me. It is the last original electrical part on the truck.I had a job getting the motor out.Now to find a new one.The production date on the dead motor is 3-59.Early for my 1960.
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I used the kit from that Brothers sells. Converted my 1 speed to a 2-speed. It appears quicker than the stock 2 speeds also. It has been very good to me. I cannot remember who actually makes them off the tops of my head, but very good units. It has been tested a good bit in the Mississippi and Louisiana rains. I have had it 2 years on the truck.
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My wiper motor is not made by anyone for reman.though could be restored. I chose to take it a part.It was in good shape internally .I found that a breaker point spring became weak and contacted the inside body.Shorting it out. Greased the gear drive back up and reassembled, Work's again. Ready to reinstall.
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