Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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New Mini-Split and filter system in and ready...
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Senville SENL-30CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 30000 BTU 18 SEER 208/230V 1399.00 before tax - Amazon Prime is free shipping Vacuum pump kit: Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories Mini-Split line connector: IANZHENKEJI R410A Adapter | 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare for Outdoor Units Mini Split & HVAC & Central Air Conditioner System(Pack of 2) (145°) Then you just need to have electrical ran. The filter box cost me $85.00 but is optional. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Thanks for the info.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Small update: So the Mini-Split is working great! I am amazed at how well it does work. I plan to monitor the temp in the shop and how much it affects the power bill to get a good understanding how much it cost to keep the shop at a 62 degrees at a min.
As for the truck, I am finally back to work on it. Just about got the bottom of the cab by in the door area done. I would have it done but we ran out of gas, damnit. So this week we will have this door area done and this weekend i plan to have the other area below the passenger door done and start on the header area inside and out. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Update:
So Driver side lower door area and cab floor are repaired. Now onto less involved passenger side. First pic is completed driver side Rest are the passenger side after i removed the stock lower cab door panel |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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You can see the dent in the stock under area shown in the last two pics. Metal all seems to be decent, no real rusted through areas, just surface rust that i will coat with Por 15. The dent is my trouble area. May need to get new panel for that. I was thinking of trying to fix it by hammer and dolly, but maybe just a replacement panel would be easier.
Suggestions? |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Well i ordered the complete lower side of the passenger door area for the cab from LMC, it is on the way....
As for the passenger side, i did a little work. grey pic is as it started out... Thanks to CaptainFab for the door pillars.... (shown in blue) Waiting on the panel from LMC... and then the gas filler neck fill in panel from POL |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Looks good.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Nice patch work. Lookin' good.
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Just like now, i assumed the passenger side was ok..... ya after some scratching and cutting..... just had to order more repair panels.... damnit... LOL BUT Classic Industries has up to 30% 229.00 or more now, so patch panels and 7 rib serpentine AC Compressor.... i met the 229.00 and got up to 30% off! not much on the panels, but compressor was 179.99 now 129.99! 50.00 off. This only means that i am on hold again for a bit for these panels to show up. That is ok, i need to clean the shop anyways.... lol |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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You're doing quality work & learning as you go so you're getting better w/each task. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.
I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself: "I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free." |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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Ok, so here are pics of the passenger side floor area adventure... sucks that I had to remove alot more than I had originally hoped, BUT in this case, it was good because I got to learn that just because it looks ok, what lies under may not be, and it was not as all, but short it will be!
Pics of the floor cut out and then the vent box area cut out and new replacement installed. Today I plan to weld up the rest of the bent box and get the floor panel installed and welded up. Then wait for the kick panel replacement and the bottom tear drop shaped outside door pillar panel to come in, then get installed. After that, just replace the door stop area on the door pillar with replacement one from CaptainFab. This will finish the floor, FINALLY. LOL Then it s weld in the hole for the old gas tank, start on the roof pinch weld area, inside and out, above the passenger side. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
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vent box area
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Love your build. You can come mess up my rust repair anytime! :D I need to do the bottom of my doors, but that is going to be phase 2 of my build...
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Lol, honestly, if i was close i would come help. I am not a big fan of rust repair, BUT it is necessary.... unfortunately. |
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You can also partially slice through the tube w/o going all the way through & tip the tubing over. This helps keep things in place easier. If one slice isn't enough, compress the gap & slice through a 2nd/3rd time as needed. In the end, you can slice all the way through for a Butt weld or just fill in the gap. |
Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
A quick easy way to mark a straight line around a pipe or tube is to cut a strip of heavy paper or poster board say 1-1/2 or 2" wide long enough to wrap around the circumference of the pipe. Wrap it around the pipe, lining up the edges and either hold it or secure it with tape. Then mark the pipe using the edge.
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