Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Yesterday morning I started securing the brake lines in place. All done on the firewall and got a couple on the frame. I should have them done on the frame and the fuel line too this week.

I had my wife help me get them tightened up. Gave her the wrench while I was got them from the inside. She said it is starting to look like a truck lol.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Congrats! But we have to see pictures to confirm your wife's opinion.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Rear brake line is completely secured to frame now. I got home and had line clamps in the mail. So I thought I was going to start on the fuel line but I mistakenly ordered more 1/4 clamps instead of 3/8.

So I did the brake line lol. I had plenty of clamps.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got over to the hardware store yesterday to finally get more 3/8th nuts. I also decided to try some of this peel and seal. I've read mixed results on putting on the roof but I didn't see anything wrong with behind and under the seat.

It was pretty windy this morning so I did the inside cab stuff. First I attacked the cab with Fuze It. I sealed up every little spot I could find. All old holes... etc.. I'll need to go over those spots with a razor blade later.

Then the insulation went on and it looks pretty cool. Maybe now I can leave the seat in place. Someday I'd like a folding seat but I think I'll be ok for awhile lol.

Anyone got an opinion on peel and seal on roof and firewall?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

super great man! I use fuse it on the firewall holes too. if its a big hole I will cut a backing piece from some spare sheetmetal and fuze it.

I use peel and seal too. just a single layer gets 90% of the benefit (dampening resonance) so I just put a thick jute over it and its quiet!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

This Fuze it stuff is awesome I'm glad you mentioned it.

You use it on the roof and firewall?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

So I realized I should've put seat belt anchors in before insulation. Thankfully it will be easy with seat out. Grabbed the seat belts I still had from donor. Picked up some hardware today and looked at Deves stovebolt site for a walk through. Donor belts are blue so I'll need to replace eventually but it'll be a while before I redo the seat.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I got nuts welded to huge washers... got them welded into place in the floor.... Then nut came loose but washer wouldn't budge... had to crawl underneath and weld up! I made sure I penetrated both pieces this time but got a good burn on my arm from falling crap.

Lesson learned, make sure welds are good and don't weld up.


Anyways, part of seatbelts in! Two middle pieces done and hardware is ready for bottom parts of retractor parts. I'm going to get lap part done and sit in to make sure I like 3rd anchor spot. Get the shoulder strap perfect.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Good that you got it fixed now. Welding is not as easy as some make it look. At least that's been my experience.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

overhead welding is perilous! I had a piece of slag go in my ear once

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Made anchors for shoulder points this morning. Had to make three.. because I dropped one inside the wall! Pretty bummed, broke a telescoping magnet. It was grabbing it but I think it twisted and Its stuck unless I do some cutting.

Someday when I can weld like you guys I might cut a hole, until then it's a new addition.


Seatbelts don't match but I'll buy new ones when I eventually redo seat. It's solid, done right, copied the kits I see online so I'm happy.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

As long as they are secure you are good.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Did you ever find the reason why your window wouldn't fully raise, or did I just miss that post?

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Nope not yet, not sure how I wantbto go about it.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Got my fuel line clamps in sooner than expected so started securing fuel line. All mounting holes for fuel tank got drilled too. Tank is finally bolted down but I need a couple more bolts for it and last couple fuel line clamps.

Also replaced all the front mismatched bolts with grade 8 3/8ths bolts. And both front shock mounts are on now.

So... I need a fuel pump and like a 7 inches of rubber line to finish fuel. And I need the axle to frame brake line to finish brakes.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

I may have mentioned before that a PO cut up the rear upper shock mounts. I was looking up new ones and 30 bucks each isn't bad but I thought this might be a nice little cut and weld project. I'm still learning and need some experience right? Lol

So I went to the old donor frame and using a front mount as a template... started cutting. Used a cut off wheel. Measuring, marking, cutting took an hour or so.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Pics

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Good welding project.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Spent an hour after work on my new shock mounts. I tried to get inside too on one but then realized it'll be hard to grind and make it look pretty. Good thing they won't be seen.

One I got cleaned up some and the other still needs a little work. My buddy will look them over before I paint them.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

nice mount rebuild! if you dont got it, make it!

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Nice practice. Takes me a sec but I play with the speed until I get that bacon sizzle sound.

I need more little projects...

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

And speaking of another project. I need one middle running board bracket. So unless someone has one laying around that will probably be the next one.

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

also play with the amount of space between the nozzle and the project, stick out, because that also factors in. wire size, amperage, stick out, metal thickness, gap between the parts. gap works pretty good if it is the same roughly as the wire size. on thin stuff just do very short burst, leave the wire in the puddle as it cools, when the glow stops in your puddle, through the welding lense, hit it again for a short burst, over and over till done. on thin stuff, again, short welds to keep the heat and possible warpage down, when done that short weld plannish with a hammer on dolly and allow to cool before going back. always start with clean metal, both sides, because the contaminants get drawn in from both sides and can cause a poor weld, porosity or lots of spatter. when starting a new weld ensure the wire is cut so it has a chisel tip instead of a small ball of old weld on the end of the wire, the weld will start quicker and won't have the old weld contaminants from the little ball. if not confident doing off-position welding then place the piece level if possible (yeah, like that happens right?)

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

oh yeah, and tack the project around the edges (on both the front and the back sides if possible) before welding starts so warpage doesn't make the thing go "outta square".

Re: '50 chevy 3100
 

Found another middle running bracket! 15 bucks plus a little shipping from a guy I bought a couple things from before. I'll have it in a few days. Sure beats having to buy a whole set.

When should I use grade 8 and or grade 5 bolts?

I have been replacing all my mismatched bolts with grade 8 but I have a few grade 5's still.