Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
10x or 10mph?
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
I am having a similar issue, I have 00' 4.8L with 20" wheels/50 tires, 3.08 gears, and NV3500 manual trans. My speedo is about 2x what it should be (reads 90 at 45). Does this need to be adjusted with a tune due to the tall trans/gear/wheel size?
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
I am having it tuned Thursday so hopefully that resolves the issue. If I have the wires on the VSS backward (the pigtail I bought just had 2 black wires), would this cause the speedo to read high or would it not read at all? The pigtail on the original harness had the purple vss wire on the right so I put the right black wire to the VSS lead to my speedo so I assume it is correct but thought I would ask, thanks.
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
If those two wires are switched it wont make any difference.
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Any updates for this?
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It's been quite some time since I've posted on this page, but I've still found a lot of useful info including the write up on this Speedo conversion, so thanks for that. I'm hoping I can get some help wiring this thing. I've tried to follow the picture but it's a bit difficult with all the wires bundled together. Thanks again for the write up and any help is much appreciated. The bottom picture is what I have so far.
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
It looks as though you have most of it figured out. You just need to tie the dash lights together and add ignition power, ground and a signal wire for the gas gauge. Is there something specifically you need to know?
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You can wire the truck side first if that makes it easier for you, it doesn't matter which you do first. Yes, all the gauges that are electric will need their own ignition power. |
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So I think I have this figured out, but I'm unsure of where the red and green wire go?
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On a more serious note... I have not done my swap yet and am out a few months due to moving etc. I am very thankful you fellas are figuring this out though. I may have missed it in here but when this is done and working right - I can still have my stock tach as well? Oh and you are very right! It's tricky! So you are right on time...:mm: |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Yes, you can still have the factory tach, you just have to trim one side of the face of it slightly to clear the speedo. It doesn't show when installed so you will never notice it. I will look and see if I can find a pic.
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I'm not sure what that wire labeled ammeter is, but I probably wouldn't use that for ignition power. The gauges will have power already going to them, so you would just need to use that wire. The speedometer wire would come from the PCM.
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The speedo out put from the PCM will be pin 50, a dark green with white stripe in the C2 connector, which is either the red or green one depending on what year your engine is.
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So I guess I don't have this down yet. I got the speedo hooked up to the ecm but I'm not sure of the ignition source. I have a wire from the truck labeled gauges B+, which leads me to believe that's hot all the time? I don't want power to the gauges all the time do I? The other wire I have is the one labeled ammeter to ign sw, which I'm guessing is ignition switch. Do I need 2 ignition sources? One for the speedo one for the other gauges?
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I just took a test light to those wires. Gauges b+ is hot key on, ammeter to ignition switch is constant hot and I have a wire labeled ammeter to fuse block which is constant hot. I'm lost...
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I studied your picture, I think I have this figured out. I see you have all the ignition wires coming off the fuel gauge and I'm thinking the wire i need is the gauges b+ since it's only hot keyed on.
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Yes, you only need one key on hot wire to go to all the gauges. Are you trying to hook up the factory ammeter?
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I plugged in my gauges the other day and as soon as I turned the key the the fuse blew. My dash lights and turn signals are working so I assume my grounds are good. I hooked up each gauge one by one and when I got to the volt gauge I swapped from the square body the fuse blew again. Do I have a bad gauge or is it something else? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Can you post a pic of how you have it wired? My guess is it isnt wired quite right.
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Here it is
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Well, I cant really tell from the pic, but I would make sure the voltmeter isnt grounding out on the tin.
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Yes, make sure the mounting bolts are not touching the tin. There are little plastic parts that insulate them, make sure they are there.
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So that was the issue, fixed that but none of the gauges work. Lights are still good, except ses light. I'm ready to throw in the towel....
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Did you fix the fuse that blew? If you have power to the gauges I would think that at least one would work, highly unlikely that they are all bad.
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ls1nova71 pm sent!
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