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PS: I get 8% of Jim's take |
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I can't talk anymore, I'm supposed to be up in the middle of NJ |
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I've got to go to work too. |
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I homebrew so there's no shortage of motivation at my house
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That complete floor repo just blows my mind!
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i just need someone to do this on a blazer so i can see how to do it what with bracing and all.
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I say take the front clip off, cut the floor strait across. You may not need to raise the bed, since the floor pan mounts to the step up. Clean up the factory seam(front and rear). You will have to modify the rear of the floorpan some. Put the cowl/windshield back on zip screw both ends and check door alignment. If they line up, mount your rockers. I think bracing would be in your way, but that's just me. This floor pan is extremely strong. I have about 20 zip screws holding it together up to this point |
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I was working on removing the cowl area today, so I thought I'd post up some pics of spot weld removal
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace396.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace393.jpg This is the area of making a ribbon of the sheet metal, cutting the top and bottom so your left with a 1" pc. with the spot weld in the middle http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace392.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace397.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace398.jpg |
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That looks awesome man. Nice job.
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Thanks Tim |
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Why the need to remove the firewall piece?
Rust reason's or are you installing a shaved/different part? Cool work J. http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...replace393.jpg |
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Kurt- there are rust holes in it; just hard to see in the pictures. Most of the holes are down low near the mating flange for the floor. It's apart, we have the new firewall so we figured why not replace it and know we don't have any issue with rust to deal with.
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I'm bringing home another blazer today...wanna try the floor in the real deal? :lol: Edit: Got the body mount on Tuesday, thanks. |
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[QUOTE=vtblazer;2684121]Yeah, thought that was the case but had to ask just in case you guys were sneaking something in and trying something new
JB, how about a rethink on that cool shaved cowl from Direct Sheet Metal, we could use that new brace you just repoped around the steering column |
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We went down to look at the guys 3/4 ton 4x4 he wants to fix up. He's thinking about bringing it up here for the body work, we checked it out and gave him the big thumbs up...it's in really decent shape all considered. Looks like it was once an old forestry truck. The blazer was going to be 'equity' towards body work, so I had my trailer but it just couldn't be saved. |
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Mods that had been made. (in bed and suspension) Fadded area on the fender where numbers/letters had been once in sticker form. Go work on your blazer, it's watching...:hm: |
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I'm on Jeremy duty since the wifey is watching our grandson, not much time to play |
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I'm at the parts gathering stage again. Seems like I have to put in a bank of relays(waterproof) 2 for the headlites, 2 for the electric fans, and 1 for the electric water pump. Don't know what amps these units draw, so I'll have to look into that as well. ANY IDEAS???
EDIT: just read the MAD. electrical catalog and it says 2 relays hooked up in paralell for the electic water pump( less work for the terminal blades, eliminates thermal meltdown)gotta dig out my cheat sheet to link it up...picked the company up on one of Kurts threads about headlites Last part that is needed is the tail pipes, I'm guessing that a pickup pipe can be cut down to proper lenght, or it's back to Mineke |
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I sure like the look of that floor pan. Its a nice clean install. The floor supports already come attached right? Then you just welded the braces running fore and aft back in right?
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Dude, you up early on the East Coast there or is my time off all the way over here?
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Jeg's is open, just ordered my March brackets(in April):lol: |
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Central Jersey isn't too bad. I went to a school there in Lakehurst one time. Kind of country really. Its pretty close to Tom's River.
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