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Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
I'm kind of lukewarm to the final results. They seem to work fine, no dimming though. They're either on or off. For some reason the pictures show a white haze on the outboard sides of the two main gauges. It's not obvious in person for some reason.
Final score.....meh. Next time I'll just buy a new box of normal incandescent bulbs. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d0ccb0f7ee.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...c983f26b83.jpg |
Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
Man hope the finger gets better. I work with my hands and can't stand to not be able to use them. I tried to cut my index finger off with a 4 inch hole saw a few months ago. Stitches and all. It sucked. Hope you get better. Now to make your Thanksgiving weekend better.
I have avoided reading this build for some dumb reason. Mainly I think because I thought it was going to be one of those dually builds that lack utility. No disrespect to anybody it just isn't my thing. So today I thought I'd sit down and take a look. Man I've got to say I have much respect for you. You do some really great work and your truck makes sense. I decided to put it in my or our low buck build threads in the General Discussion area http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873 . It's right on with what I feel is a great way to look at and build a truck. So when will we see a build thread on the other truck? It looks way too kool. I can't wait. Happy late Thanksgiving. |
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Last picture of the gauges. I took my iPad outside since it's camera is better than a phone camera. It was also full dark by now too. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...cd8c9b296b.jpg I'm getting about wore out with my lack of progress, between nursing my finger and cold weather. I'm getting ready to dig into something different to make some motivational progress. Maybe do the front suspension and lower it and put the wheels and tires on. |
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Kevin - why "meh"? Are they expensive, or because they don't dim, or? I haven't used them before but have considered them, just curious.
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The dimming thing doesn't bother me even a little bit. I've been driving 25 years and I don't think I've ever dimmed any dash lights. I always run them full bright. Even my little Honda daily driver which has fantastic dash lights, I leave turned all the way up. Maybe the meh is just I'm kind of embarrassed that I worked several days fussing over painting and cleaning and replacing bulbs and it's not much different than if I'd just have reached my arm up under the dash and swapped whatever stock bulbs were burnt out. I did need a "ground ball" project to mess with while I was laid up with the finger though. Something I could sit at my workbench and do very carefully with 9 fingers. I can say, it fit the bill in that category. |
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I had the same reaction when I did the LED conversion for my gauge lights. I was expecting a lot more. BUT, I'm not unhappy, and I figure I will never have to change those bulbs again.
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My finger is mended enough that I felt like taking advantage of a freak 70 degree December day.
First off, remove these things..... http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...25caed98b4.jpg I'm installing a pair of drop shackles. These are half ton truck shackles. My cab and chassis truck is weird in that it uses 2.5 inch wide leaf springs rather than 3 inch like a dually pickup uses. Fortunately, when I lowered my buddies truck with flip kit and c notch, he gave me the drop shackles that were on his truck. Cool deal, good price, and made right here locally. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...3c3f7a5384.jpg They bolted right on. I couldn't use the higher holes (more drop) because the leaf springs would hit the bed runner channel. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...ed33c11212.jpg It's very close as is right now. Less than a finger width clearance as the shackles cycles through its range of motion. Then, wiring work. This is slow progress because I'm methodical and particular. I mounted this big junction box in the rear center of the truck. The feeds from the truck wiring harness come in from the top. The feeds out to the left and right sides go out the respective side of the box. The odd red wire out the top is a feed to the license plate lamp and three center marker lamps on the back of the bed. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...70485a445a.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...9dd693ce31.jpg The reason I'm so slow is that every wire is laid out to determine proper length and routing, then removed from the truck and the end terminals installed. I like to crimp, solder, then heat shrink. Every one of them.... http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...e75c11c134.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d6a1a9020a.jpg Then I installed another pair of junction blocks, one on each side of the truck. This gives me a place to tie in the tailights, bed side marker lights, and headache rack lights all in a sanitary manner. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...8baee1eeed.jpg I'm still waiting on my tailights to arrive, but they will be an easy bolt on and run wires to the junction blocks on each side. I also need to get some little clamps to bolt all of the wiring looms firmly into place so they don't sag or wiggle around. It will all look more sanitary when I get it finished. |
Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
i like the attention to detail on the wiring side. i spent a lot of years cutting corners with wiring and ended up paying for it two fold! now i'm also very particular and my soldering iron comes out even when not needed.
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Thank you. I like wiring work to stand the test of time. There's nothing worse than intermittent lights that you have to troubleshoot at the worst possible time.
I'm studying right now to figure out how I want to configure my trailer light plugs. My 18 foot trailer uses an RV plug which is common on modern trailers and my small trailer uses a flat 4 wire plug. I want this truck to pull any trailer I ever need it to so I want to make sure and choose a configuration that I can work with down the road. |
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I am a big believer in soldering the crimped connections. I assume that the junction box has a lid. Where did you get the junction box?
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http://www.delcity.net/store/Stud-Ty...n-Box/p_790202 Quote:
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You can get the same hookup in a universal that you wire up on your own as well that would work for the OP's situation. I installed this setup on my 01, 03, and my 2000 F250, little FYI, Ford and GM use the same connector layout behind the 7way plug. http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...k/DSCN0340.jpg http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f4...k/DSCN0341.jpg I just carry an adapter for our 6 way round trailer, everything else we have is either 7 or 4. |
Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
I am with you on keeping the wiring for the long haul. I have done some temp wiring to get things moving, but always go back to make it right. I like how your wiring is done on this truck. Do the 2 single strips on each side have covers? I would be worried about something hitting those terminal studs and shorting out the wiring...
For your trailer plug issue and being neat and functional, this part is what I am looking to add to my 2004 Silverado HD so I do not have to use adapters... http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-7-F...ht_1086wt_1362 I know it is a ford part, but it seems it is something that they got right for what you might want...just a thought for you! |
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I'm gonna look through my catalogs at the Hoppy stuff life GCncsuHD mentioned. |
Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
Eighteen dollars and I can get Valerie to order it with her Amazon free shipping deal.
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I'm about to change gears again.
I got confirmation that my tailights shipped today so I'm waiting on that. In the mean time, I ran the truck out of gas moving it around the shop today. Before I add gas, I need to address a few fuel system issues. First, the truck won't take gas at any decent rate. I need to reconfigure the filler setup. It's got an unnecessary kink in it which is the problem I believe. It seems to have enough slope so I'm betting the kink is the bottleneck. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...91d942bf17.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...656f70acd6.jpg It seems to have enough slope otherwise. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...86ab543c8c.jpg I also need to fix these ghetto fab fuel lines. When the previous owner removed the other saddle tank he did some fantastic plumbing work to modify the system to single tank configuration. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...39cec6d0c1.jpg Yes, that a bolt stuck into the line to block it off. I also want to reconfigure the filler itself. The cap is buried behind a spring loaded door. Its in such tight confines that the cap had to be modified to fit. Its a real exercise in patience to remove and replace the cap with your fingertips with it not having anything to grab on to. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...0cb3b945a6.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...68b36caeff.jpg I welcome any and all suggestions on how to make this whole setup more sanitary and to flow fuel quicker when I'm fueling at the pump. |
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Ive had the Hoppy 7/4 on my dually for at least 8 years now. No problems. Wiring looks nice. "Do it nice or do it twice"
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Fuel fill...can you weld that hokey thing shut and put something like this in, more forward so a single 90 degree hose (like OEM) is usable?
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I think I'll go bid.... |
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Good write up on those parts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-r...ller-neck.html |
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I haven't read through everything fully yet but I love the knowledge you have and share and take the time to explain the steps you take it's great.
Very encouraging I like how you are going after everything USA and if not you try to refurbish it yourself it's great, I'm staying turned no doubt. |
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Fantastic. With your attention to detail and your abilities I have no doubt that you will be able to pull up to a high speed pump now. ;)
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Kevin Always Working on making it better. Thanks for sharing. ...I cannot tell you how many times I have looked on this site for solutions to the problem of the day ( for me it's always something when working on an old truck)..I have found Tx Firefighter's name pop's up with a here is what I did. Recently looking for what other guys have done with engine oil priming before 1st start up...your suggestion use the dist. base not just a screw driver.. oil travels up to the upper engine journal's around dist base..Never knew....Thanks again...Back to the your project. Do you have a filler neck to go with that new hose...I have a 2" filler neck from a 90 S 10 you can have if you need one.....Edward
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Edward,
The factory hose into my tank is a GM hose with 1 3/4 inked onto it. So I ordered 1.75 rubber filler hose and 90 degree elbow. I either need to find a 1 3/4 inch filler neck or I'll modify my current one by cutting and welding a piece of proper size tube onto it. I'd much prefer to find a proper 1 3/4 filler neck though so it will have a vent tube bib on the side all ready to just bolt on and connect the dots. |
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Slow progress on the truck today.
Got a bad weather spell about to set in so I spent most of my time getting the animal troughs, water well, and barn ready for it. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...d226e25267.jpg My taillights are lost in the Postal system somewhere within 30 miles of my house. Maybe I'll get them tomorrow. I did remove the fuel filler and do some work on it. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...be6b71136d.jpg I wanted to remove any unnecessary kinks in the system to hopefully have it take gas better than it does now. To review, I am doing the entire system in 1 3/4 inch tubing and hose. My Summit order with all of the goodies shows delivery tomorrow. So, I cut and welded and modified to end up with a straight 1 3/4 inch filler neck. My gas bottle on my 110 mig with the .023 wire was empty so I wound up using about my worst welder for this job, my Millermatic 250 with .035 wire. I consider myself a capable welder, but working with this thin tubing and the big wire and large MIG gun was a challenge. I'd have had to drive about 60 miles round trip to fill the bottle on my little welder otherwise. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...b8114722ab.jpg Now, a question for the readers..... When I install this filler neck, what orientation should the vent tube be at ? Top or to the side ? I should be able to clock it whatever way I want since its a straight unit so that's not an issue. I want factory like flow rate when I go to fuel up at the gas pump. |
Re: The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build
I would want it somewhere in the top third orientation, that should maximize efficiency with the nozzle of the gas pump. I was listening to the car guys on NPR fifteen or twenty years ago and they had a trivia question about how the nozzle knows to stop pumping fuel when your tank is near full. Although the fuel appears to be delivered in an even flow it is actually coming in pulses. Supposedly it can read the pulses of air coming back from the tank and "know" at value X the tank is pretty much full and the nozzle cuts off. Kind of interesting stuff.
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Kevin,
I believe most of this era of trucks, the breather tub was located at either 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. That's what I have seen anyway.... |
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Thanks Joe. That's simple enough. Saved me from grubbing around underneath some stranger's truck in a parking lot somewhere.
Horizontal it is. |
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If you can find the filler neck from a stepside with fuel doors it is pretty straight like what you just built. Good luck finding one though. It seems none of the parts suppliers sell fuel filler parts for the stepsides. I need another one for the passenger side to run dual tanks.
I had hell with the filler hose. The inlet for the tank and filler neck are different diameters, so it's difficult to just go out and buy a hose and make it work. I pieced to together a couple of stock hoses and a new hose. Here is a picture of mine. Looks like the vent is at about 12:00 o'clock. I believe that is factory because the screws only lined up in one position. However, the hose itself is not factory. I wasn't too sure about my "engineering" with the hoses, but if fills up just fine even with the new vapor recovery pumps. I had a 76' Silverado that you couldn't put gas in with the new pumps without turning the nozzle upside down and standing on your head! :lol: http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/h...psfad8f004.jpg |
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I wish i had the resources, I'd go into a small time business making stepside fuel filler parts. I think there's a bit of money to be made there.
I ran into the same deal on my 78 stepside. It was a long fleet which I shortened and fitted a Craigslist short step bed to. Then my buddy gave me an 87 model tank. So, I wound up having a couple of fill tubes and a tank and couldn't figure out any decent way to connect them. I ultimately wound up buying a proper 78 model 16 gallon tank to fit the short wheelbase which had the same size fill tube as my other parts, then pieced it together similar to what you did. It works just fine, but I feel kind of ghetto with how it looks. I hope I'm gonna be good on this deal. I have three different bezels coming to fit into my bed rail, my now straight filler neck, a good 90 degree mandrel bent tube, and three feet of 1 3/4 filler hose. The ironic thing is, I have four separate orders in shipping to me right now between all of that stuff. Three of them are either lost or delayed in delivery. I'm perfecting the virtue of patience. |
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Ha! 70 SWB Chev truck, aftermarket bedside, 91 Ranger fuel door/filler neck, 91 Jeep wrangler tank. The reducer to match the hoses is made from the top rail of a chain link fence. Works pretty good!
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Today's truck update comes from the warmth of my couch. Like I have mentioned before, I do all my work on this truck outside of my shop due to space considerations. It's currently 28 degrees and falling, wind of 25 miles per hour, and it's sleeting. I'm just not into working out in that.
But, everyone's favorite person, the mail lady brought me some goodies today. I suspect I'm the only guy to ever buy these lights in full LED configuration. I mean, they're called "boat trailer" lights by many folks. But, alas, my bed is set up for them and I will run them until I decide to reconfigure the bed tailboard. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...40fb708baa.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...fe48baa909.jpg Reminder of the busted lights I'm replacing. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...1a00704474.jpg http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...0e9d188226.jpg |
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This not the typical build thread I would follow but a great one no less. Patience and detail.
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Well it is 23 degrees but I didn't want to sit on the couch all day with no progress.
So, tailights installed. Everything all crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk. All lights on the truck are now LED. All new wiring. Everything loomed and run in conduit. Junction blocks. Heat shrink. Hopefully bombproof. Much work and time for little visible result. Sorry about the audio. Between my runny nose and the sleet hitting the camera, it's not my best production. Click picture for video..... http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/k...F09C224F23.jpg Nothing remarkable, but lack of progress makes me a very cranky man, so I had to at least do something. |
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