Re: Project Vitamin C-10
 

I'm also deciding on which brake fluid I should go with. I really don't want to use DOT3. I heard DOT5 is silicone based. It has several improved properties over DOT3. One being it won't eat the paint. What are your thoughts?

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I've done a few drive shafts. Have the drive line guy tell you where to measure from. He should have yokes to sell you too. It's easy. Not worth your time to find a used yoke. ;)

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Yes DOT 5. I'm going to throw out all my DOT 3

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Thanks Dennis

Did a search on how to measure a drive shaft and found this place that I think had a good sheet to use.

dennysdriveshaft.com

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Alan I've got a drive shaft complete that came out of my truck with 350 trans, that should be the right length...If you used your rear perch mount holes on engine. Let me know you can have it.

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Thanks Allan.

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Hey Alan,

I run DOT 5 in my truck (and a lot of other vehicles in the past). Any fluid that will eat your paint when you spill a little bit is not for me. It is supposed to be a little more spongy than DOT 3. But it doesn't absorb water and has a higher boiling temp than DOT3. Expensive though.

TR

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A little tip. Plain water will neutralise DOT 3. If you rinse it off right away. :uhmk:

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New catalyzed urethane paints are not supposed to be effected by brake fluid..but it still seems to...go figure that one out

I run the silicone in a car I built, you MUST remove all traces of dot 3 before using silicone, and it has been known to dissolve some seals ,I flushed the whole system with denatured alcohol 3 times before using the silicone, the silicone will give a harder pedal and it is harder to find and certain brands can't be mixed, I used the Napa brand and it works great and is cheaper than other brands

Oh and as far as the drive line, if you have a yoke push it in till it stops and pull it out 1/2 to 3/4" and measure from there to the rear flange, the drive shaft does not really move in and out too much, there are different types of yokes...long and short and car and truck

I just get a used drive line that is too long and get the drive line guy to shorten it put new u joints in and balance it, costs about 150$ out here in Ca, a whole new drive line will run 450$ out here

someone on here was able to use an aluminum one from a later truck in a short bed with no mods, I don't remember who at this moment but a search should turn that one up

Great progress on your truck...the work you have done looks awesome, keep it up !

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Thanks Ronnie!!

Thanks Guys!!

Thanks, great info as well. My system is completely new so I don't have to worry about crossing fluids up. ;)

No progress on mine lately. But I did make a patch for Shannon's truck tonight just to see if I can do it. It still needs some trimming it's just a roughed out patch. It's the piece that catches all the debris in the cowl area.

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That's kewl Allan. :metal:

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Nice patch!
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alan what have you done to your truck lately? any updates????

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:thumbs: Thanks guys.

Thanks for asking. I haven't done a darn thing in over two weeks. There are numerous reasons. The main one I can contribute it too is working in a shop with 100+ degree and 150% humidity all day I'm pretty much spent by the time I get home. I know I'm not the only one affected by the heat. I guess it's a good reason to be lazy. ;)

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Thanks for asking. I haven't done a darn thing in over two weeks. There are numerous reasons. The main one I can contribute it too is working in a shop with 100+ degree and 150% humidity all day I'm pretty much spent by the time I get home. I know I'm not the only one affected by the heat. I guess it's a good reason to be lazy. ;)[/QUOTE]

I don't blame you/ I can't work in the humidity. When it's 110 here with very low humidity I can work in my shop. Lots of fans, and this year I installed a swamp cooler. Works good when it's a dry heat.

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I've found my time is best used early in the morning when it's only 75 degrees out. This heat is no fun...Work in it all day welding then come home and work when it's 115 in the shop! No thanks.
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It has been too hot !! That's my excuse.. and I am waiting on parts...

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It was only 84 here today with low humidity, and a slight breeze. Couldn't ask for any better weather. :metal::metal::metal:

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How does that swamp cooler work with bare metal present?

:agree:

:thumbs:

Are you bragging? :haha:

Thought I would go out to the shop for a little bit to see where I ended. My cab to bed alignment is really confusing me. It's the same cab, bed and frame. The only thing that is different is new cab mounts. They also look to be installed correctly. I looked at a pic before teardown and it looked like it lined up a lot better. Nothing is tight right now, but everything is sitting on the frame. Thinking of shimming up the back of the cab. Both sides are the same.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1183694167

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Hey Alan we could swap beds because mine is on the lower side for some reason.
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Maybe the difference in the height of the bed is the bed wood?

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It works great because the shop is fully insulated. An extra $2,200.00, but really worth it. And yes I'm bragging :haha:
I have the same problem you have with lining up, but I yet to make cab and bed mounts.
http://belair.smugmug.com/Other/1965...83_6vBVL-L.jpg :haha::haha:

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Your cab/bed alignment looks off by a good 1/2" or more. Are you sure that the bed cross members are in the right locations? If you shim the cab won't that effect the core support/fender alignment too? I'm just guessing on the bed, from the pictures and what you did, I would think it should be off the other direction if any at all.

I know you will figure it out!
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Just a question Is the back of the bed sitting right it kinda looks like bed to cab gap is angled?

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Kinda what I was thinking too.;)