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Allan, I'm not sure if that's a good idea having the vent hose going below like that. When full it might syphon the gas out. I would install it above the filler hose. Just a thought. What do ya think?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1314316431

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I thought about that, but the vent runs all the way up to the filler neck under the cap. I'm thinking that should work. Am I wrong?
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I didn't know it went up the tube. It should be OK then. Just looking out for ya. ;)

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Thanks again Dennis, you can't see everything in pics. ;)

Started urethaning the bed wood today. Also created "Alan's Classic" group on facebook for those that don't know yet. ;)

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Good idea Alan, thanks for doing that. :metal:

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I like the idea. Seems more personal.

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Is the urethane clear specifically for wood? Does it soak in or lay on top so you can you cut and buff? I think I've read where someone painted and cleared the wood and then cut and buffed it. Or maybe I made it up, I'm not sure.:crazy:

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I would think the more coats the better so you won't have the cut and buff. But I'm just guessing. :uhmk:

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A lot of guessin and makin up stuff going on.;)

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Alan I'm ready to come pic my wood back up from ya............;):lol::metal::smoke::uhmk::chevy::mm::waah::devil::sumo::metal::lol:

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Hey Alan I was just catching up on your build thread looking good as usual.
BTW I noticed that you have worked on F-4s I was in the last Phantom squadron in the Marine Corps (VMFP-3) was there to launch out the very last one bound for China Lake.

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I rode in a F4 from Korea. The Navy came tried (came close but no cigar) to make the Air Force guy in the back seat toss all his kinshi.

Truck is looking good Alan.

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It is a Minwax product for outdoor use. The first coat soaked in quite a bit. I went ahead and did back-to-back coats for a total of three coats on the first round. I also beveled every sharp edge a little so i wouldn't have a sharp edge for the urethane to start pealing.

I believe I read that as well. A guy at work tried automotive clear and water wicked up on the ends and stained the wood. I wasn't there during the complete process. He also stated the air in the wood created air bubbles the first time he put it on. I decided to use a product for wood, because I don't want to redo it anytime soon.

After the first 3 coats and 2 more today after sanding with 180 to level it out, i have already used a quart and that is just on the top.

What's wrong with that. :haha:

Not yet it ain't ready yet. ;)

That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Like I mentioned before I sanded the top sides and put on 2 more coats witha brush and that is the end of one quart. Once I get it slick, I will spray the last coat I think.

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Thanks, Alan. It looks great.

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Finally subscribed. I haven't read the whole thread...just bits and pieces over time. I will go back and read it all when i get time.... Nice work Alan!!

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:thumbs:

Thanks and thanks for subscribing!!

On to something different, I'm tired of playing with my wood. ;)

I am using a measuring sheet that I linked a while back that collects data for a drive shaft. Drive line Guru's make sure I'm doing this right.

I measured it with it on the ground. I used a framing square on both the trans and rearend. The square was up against the tail housing and the other square was against the leading edge of the yoke. I then marked the floor at both locations with tape and a pen mark and measured. I came up with 61", remember my engine is in the front holes. I raised it up and measured again for curiousity and it was 62"

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You know the best way is to ask the guy that's building the drive shaft. Measure exactly the way he says to do it. If you measure it and it comes out wrong, he can't say I made it to YOUR spects. Just a tip. I had many made, and that's how I do it. I don't like to pay twice. ;)

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That's awesome, working on those things were something else. I was assigned to AR Aero Repair. We did flight control riging, landing gear, canopy rigging, and throttle cables.

Thanks Bill. I road in a F4 over Korea. that was on of the most memorable times in my life.

Right on I was a hydraulics technician. VMFP-3 was a reconnaissance squadron with 36 aircraft that’s a lot of Phantoms to maintain, a normal squadron has 12 aircraft. There is non other like the F-4 I love that plane in fact here on my desk sits a complete warning light panel from the cockpit of one of our birds along with multiple models adorned in the many paint schemes P-3 had over the years.:uhmk:

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I did not know that was possible...:lol:
Can't believe that Dennis did not comment on that one...


Anyway, The way you measured it, the driveshaft would have to be level from the trans to the rearend yoke. If it runs uphill or downhill, then it would be longer. The best way I know is how Dennis described. I would also check with it on the ground, measure from your tail housing directly to the flat of the yoke with a tape measure. Tell the shop that you measured from the housing to the yoke flange. The yoke flange is typically the center of the U-joint.

Looking good anyway...

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Thanks Dennis, I meant to call them (drive line people) today. But my bed wood drove me crazy today. I usally do a good job with spraying urethane. I had lots of issues today. I was in hopes of bringing the wood home today.

It's one of my favorites..............to look at. ;) They are cool.

Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce. ;)

Thanks for the correction, and I agree with you. An angle will increase lenght. i should know that since I measure frames and unibodies. :dohh:

As mentioned before i had a hell of a time today with the wood. I have used orbital sanders before on wood with any problems. The can said use 220 and I did so after first trying to cut it with 320. After I sprayed the first coat and let it flash off I could see the sanding marks plus it was dieing back some. I thought another coat would fix it. So another trip to the store for a 3rd can. After it tacked most boards were looking better while others didn't. Fish eyes were on the boards that were looking better plus tons of dust. I sprayed in the shop with the doors closed. So I went with another coat and just put them out in the sun at this point knowing i will be sanding them back down. Out in the sun they looking great. After a couple hours I brought them back in and the flourescent lights just show everything. My goal is for them to be slick and shinny. I hope to get there soon. Here is a pick of them outside. I tried to get the defects to show up, but they didn't.

I also test fitted the LED tail lights with new bezels. They are not wired yet.

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Looking good Alan..........

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Dennis must have just overlooked that comment. I figured he would be the first to pounce. ;)


I saw the comment, sometimes I just keep my mouth shut. And stay out of trouble. :haha::haha::haha: I do like you wood though. :lol::metal:

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:thumbs:

Now it's personal. :haha: BTW Thanks!! ;)

I just got off the phone with Ron "padresag" he gave me some great tips on some of the troubles I am having with the urethane. I forgot to mention I had a bubble form after sitting it in the sun. That's a big no-no. It needs to cure out inside over time.

I also blasted some parts today and blew holes right thru my tag light bracket. I could repair, but will opt for a new one.

I also picked up some peel and seal for the sound deadener on the floor. It's not as thick as I thought it would be. It might be 1/8" thick.

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looking good Alan...that bed wood is gonna be really nice....did you ever decide on doing anything else with the tailgate, or are you just gonna leave it painted solid?