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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
I leave for a month and your almost done. Looks good. Cant wait till you start it.
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Very clean Alan..
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very neat job of running the wireing down the frame. wish I had thought of that. I used the rubber insulated clamps..
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hey Alan , I don't think thoes era of trucks came standard with a park brake light switch. Mine didn't I know for sure. It had the hand operated handle that you had to pull to activate the park brake, then hit your knee on when getting out of the vehicle. Ha Ha. Did it several times..
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You might try using on of thoes GM SLS 182 switches.. Easy to install and cheap// 6 bucks on ebay.. it is a normally on switch that turns on the light when the lever is moved away from it. I can send you pic of my install it you need.
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Smooth idea, I like it!!
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Ahhh the excitement of running wire...
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That tubing turned out nice Alan.:metal: Keep up the good work.
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that looks really good alan! nice way to hide those wires, i might have to do something like that when i get to that point! where did you get those qd connectors??
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Alan, I just thought of something???? You've been such an inspiration to me and everyone on here, and since your going to be done with your truck soon. You're going to have to start another build right away to keep everyone pushing on in their builds. You kinda make everyone set their quality bar a little higher. So any plans on ANOTHER build after this one?? Or better yet you can come to Michigan and help me build another one...Yeah, I like the sounds of that better!!..lol
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Alan, about tools...
Just a bit of back history: I worked a couple summers with my father in the EARLY 80s in his best friends welding shop. I didnt learn as much as I now wished I had... I am looking to get a small welder but not sure what size to get. I have looked at a few of the 115v but the dials are preset and are marked as Setting 1-3 or 1-6 depending on the make. I would rather have one that is more descriptive of the amps it is pushing. Any ideas on a good model to keep my eyes out for? I dont think I would be welding any thing bigger or thicker than basic frame (1/4" or so yes?) I also cannot find the hammer tip you have in your air hammer... where did you get that? And I dont know what it was called, but I want to find an air tool we had back then in the shop that we used to chip the slag and flux off of the stick welds. It basically looked like a cup with a bunch of pencils sticking out of it with a trigger like a die cutter. I have got some serious caked on gunk down under where the sun dont shine and this tool would be perfect for chipping it off.... Lastly what seam sealer do you use and where do you get it? I have looked at all the major auto parts stores here but they cater more to the girls who need air freshners more than anything else it seems. thanks in advance sir !! |
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The bit for the airhammer came from Matco I believe. For anything body work related I lik this company, autobodytoolmart.comThey have a lot of items and decent prices. I haven't ordered anything for a while, but I use to. I think the needle scaler is what you are asking about. I use 3m and Kent seam sealers. Autobodytoolmart.com has several seam sealers. I get mine thru the suppliers at work. |
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I like my lincoln Mig Welder. And your right it does great on sheet metal. Thick metal too. :metal:
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Harbor freight also carries those bits for the air hammer.;) I'm back now so slow down for awhile so I can get caught up.:lol: Don't you have any other hobbies?:lol: Between your site and Strodders dirty Emails I'll be busy for a week.
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Alan here are a couple of pics of the GM switch I used for the brake lights. Used to have one of thoes pressure switches on the main brake line.. just didn't seem to work all the time. this has been perfect. I think it could be adapted to work on the emergercy brake.
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also here is a couple pics of the custom door panels I made from scratch. since these trucks had didly for interior, the misses needed some creature comfort.
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Just wanted to say that the entire interior was made, except the seats, without a sewing machine... entirely chip board and glue. After I get them reinstalled I'll send pics. if you want.
Oh by the way the holes in the panel are for the arm rest to attach to the door, the speakes mounting point and the opening handle. |
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I would like to add my two cents to the welder question, I have had a Millermatic 35 for years good welder but not good on sheet metal. I bought a Hobart Rancher 140 from Northern Tool for $499 including cart and shipping.
The Hobart works (GREAT) |
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The smaller welders work good on sheet metal, but doesn't penetrate good on thicker metal, like a frame.
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Thank you Alan, and all the others who replied about the welders. I think there is one of the Lincolns at the local hockshop for $225. I will pop in there today after work and take a look at it.
Yep that Needle Scaler is exactly what I had in mind !! You guys rock !! |
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your right Allen every time I'm headed north on 575 I think the same thing too I say to myself I need to get up there and check it out
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Thought that I would throw my 2 cents in, not that it is needed but for welders I bought a Lincoln 180 C a few years ago works great on sheet metal and Frames.
What I like it about is the heat settings are continuous no clicking or preset clicks if I need a little more heat i can just move the dial a fraction rather than whole click you can get the fine tuning you need with sheet metal Now I just wish I was a better welder |
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