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That looks very nice. Probably nicer than the ones I was looking for...Sorry I could not help out with a spare set sooner for you.

Once those are painted and back together with new seals, no one will ever know they were so bad...

Great work!

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I was intending to send you a PM regarding this tonight. Thanks for the offer regardless!

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Awesome work SCOTI; love the cluster and some real nice work on the wing windows.

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I'm up to date now. It's hard to keep up with everyones build. Nice work on everything. The vent window looks great. :metal:

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I'm thinking of changing hobbies..... Anyone have experience basket-weaving?

I still have a rear window gasket that's pinched in the interior corners.... I'm now going to try a different rear gasket from yet another source (3rd attempt). This newest one appears to have 'molded' corners w/the bbw length vs. a 157" straight piece of molding/gasket.

I tried mocking-up the brake lines.... I'm using a collage of year model parts (pre-bent lines) & that doesn't always go as planned. I ordered front lines for a 73-80; front to rear line for a 67-70; & rear housing lines for a 67-70. The first issue I found was there was no 'front' half of the rear line. Apparently 67-70's are considered 2pc thus you need the front & rear while 73-80's are different. Since I ordered the 73-80 front stuff, I'm missing that 'front' portion of line that exits the prop-valve & 90's toward the rear (for the rear brakes).

The pre-bent kit will work as I've mocked them up previously on the PB-DM v1 in my 68 (that's version 1 for those out of the DM loop ;) ). But, the front 'kit' now has to work w/my R&P c-notch reinforcement plates (this is different vs. my other frame/mock-up). I did some preliminary install & needed the control arms, spindle, & caliper in position to ensure everything will co-exist. I grabbed the a-arms only to realize this Dropmember is the revised 'v3' & doesn't use the lower a-arm shafts. Since these arms were originally on my 68 which had the DM v1, the shafts are installed (w/brand new bushings). So.... just to test the fit of everything, I had to knock out a new bushing to remove the shaft (destroying the bushing of course). Now I have to go get another bushing to pop in just to test fit.

I ordered a front to rear fuel line for a blazer. I figured the length difference between the swb truck vs. a blazer could be made up w/a slightly longer rubber line from the tank to frame union. The line they sent is approx the length from the fuel pump area to the back of the cab. No freakin' way it's long enough for a blazer. Now I'll need to splice in some line to fill the gap.

See how well it works for me? 'Scot-Luck'....

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I don't know about the Blazers, but on my '66 Suburban, the steel fuel line from the fuel pump back appears to be the same as a pickup. Then there is another line that goes from under the 'cab' back to the tank. The two are connected under the 'cab' with a short piece of hose in a U shape. Maybe the Blazers are the same?

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The kit did include another short section of hard line but the 'bends' are waaaaaaay off from what the frames shape is plus the ends of the line had threaded fittings (not sure why).

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Threaded fittings on a fuel line? Strange.....

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Here's a few pics of what the 'kit' consists of. I laid the long piece out on another swb frame to get an idea of length vs. placement on the frame:

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Those look like "truck fuel lines",... with the short piece being the line that extends thru the cab floor from the in cab tank.

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That's what I was thinking as well but all of my OE 67-68 fuel lines & tanks have been scrapped so I didn't have anything to compare it to.

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Look'n good

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It looks like what I just took out of my 70 stepside.

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Look like truck lines to me too.

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Guess I'll make a phone call then 'cause that's not what I paid for (next to last line)....

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I called & spoke w/someone today about the fuel lines. He asked me to e-mail him my pics so he could get an idea on the length of the lines. Hopefully there will be some quick follow-up....

Tonight, I just about finished up the front rubber/flex brake line routing. I still have a couple of quick items to cut/clean. Then, I need to figure out how I'm going to attach the lines to the upper ART a-arms to keep them out of harms way....

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I will be watching for this. I need to do the same on mine. The black zip ties are working, but it doesn't look very high tech.

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If the zip ties are working, maybe some adel clamps will work to secure them to the frame?

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It's securing them to the arms that's problematic.

They make nice clean 'clamps' for attaching brake lines to tubing (roll cages/frames) but they're only available in .250". The rubber flex lines are .375" & I'm not sure there's enough material to simply drill them out....

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They make rubber insulated ones. I am not sure, but it seems like there may be different sizes too.

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I have something on the way to try. Regardless, I'll post up what I eventually use.


No zip ties for me.....

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I looked at them again last night when I installed the e3 ride height sensor in the front. I don't see a lot of options. I do not want to drill holes, and a clamp around the arm would be huge. I am waiting to see what you have come up with.

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There are already holes drilled in the arms for the brake lines to attach to. Another hole or two (especially with a screw in it) shouldn't hurt anything.

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I think Scot and Ken both have tubular a-arms from RideTech.

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Correct. We have aftermarket tubular ART arms.