Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
So I looked through the whole thread again and did not see it, but how do I change the odometer reading? I messed with it a little but it felt like I was going to break it.
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
PM sent to Eric on Wednesday.
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I receive my face plate and stencil to today. Great work, as always, Eric!
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Eric is like allstate ins, you are in good hands
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Is there anymore faceplate available? I am interested in purchasing one if possible.
Thank you for your work on this conversion. |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
PM sent
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
so, i took my cluster out (using the old choke hole as a subwoofer bass control) and i want to finally paint the correct numbers on the lens :), wanted to make sure everything worked first...
But i also wanted to change out my crappy little too small sockets. can you guys confirm that the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS. HP 4060 works in the socket holes thanks all! |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
I was the one to suggest the standard motor products socket. I chose those sockets because I couldn't find a source for the push in metal sockets and I wanted to wire in a "cruise light on" indicator that requires 2 wires, one 12+, and the ground supplied from the cruise module once it's engaged. These sockets are a somewhat flexible plastic and are 4 lug. You only use 2 lugs so I took an exacto knife and trimmed off 2 lugs. The sockets use 194 bulbs and I needed to make a harness for the back of the cluster anyway because of all of the changes, Voltmeter, 8000rpm tach, electric speedo, VSS input, cruise input,etc. I used green 194 style leds for dash lights and it looks great at night, only problem is the leds don't dim properly. They start to dim and then drop out, but for my aging eyes I love it!
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did you try these sockets in the standard instrument panel lighting socket holes?
i like your idea of the cruise light. i put a "check engine" light in one of those holes. i cruise would look good in the other!! thanks |
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Yes the socket worked in all the holes. As a suggestion, order just one and see how it works out for you!
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Ordered 12 from RockAuto. Like $1.60 each, $5 shipping. Got them today. Thanks 68C10AS.
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The temples stil available for 25?
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Interested in template also
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Hey Eric,
Picked up a 97 S-10 cluster at the junk yard today and now I need your template kit. Do you still have any available? Also had a couple questions. Will the LS tach output run the factory tach and is the LS temp sensor the same resistance as the older chevy to run the temp gauge? Been reading your threads for a couple of years and your creativity has inspired many areas of my 71 lsx build. You the man dude:metal: Thanks, Curt |
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As for the tach, they will work with the output from the PCM, but you will need to change the 'tach resolution' in the tune from 6 to 3. LS engines run on a 4 cylinder mode and changing the resolution will double it to an 8 cylinder. The temp sender has been the topic of MANY threads, but what I usually do if keeping the stock gauge is to use the stock sender that was made for it. This requires drilling and tapping the head to accept the larger sender, but it's not all that hard to do and it's the best way to assure the gauge is going to be accurate. |
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Thanks again, Curt |
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By chance are these still available to purchase or fab up? |
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Captianfab is custom making me a hydro boost plate so I'll ask him if he can throw one of these on the order. Thanks for letting me know:metal: |
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Thanks ls1nova71
Here is the for sale thread for the plates and boxes as well as the template. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=630862 |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Hi Curt, ls1nova is correct on drilling the head for the original sender. I was reluctant and my water pump has a nice flat boss on the forward area that worked great. As i've stated in prior posts that when i was done my temp gauge read about 3/4 scale as the LS runs hotter than my original 68 small block. Once it was installed and at 3/4 scale i cut the wire close to the sender, temporarily installed a variable resistor and dialed in some additional resistance and dialed the temp gauge back to 1/2 scale. Removed the resistor and read the value. It was 4 ohms, so i soldered in a 4 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor inline. All is good!
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