Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Panel looks great!!! Easy access is always good. 5000lbs not bad at all. I was hoping mine would be around 5000lbs but seeing yours is I'm thinking I'll be over that.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Made a little more progress on the air system. You know, until you go about building this hot rod stuff it's hard to imagine how much time all the little tasks associated with these projects take. OK, so I fabbed up 2 mounting tubes and welded to the main cab support tube. For the tank I have removed the handle and stand and welded mount stands to it (not shown), also painted the control center.
Rob http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0117.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0119.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0121.jpg |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Lookin purty
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Glad I'm not the only one that feels the same way on the little things taking much longer than you think. Well said. can't wait to see it laid out.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
It's the 80 / 20 rule in building.
Panel looks good Rob. Did you decide what to do with the speaker grill? |
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Got the air tank mounted tonight. AD to answer your question, yes, I will use the speaker grill, add a hinge and a latch of some sort. I'm also looking at adding a flat plate with some cup holders on the inside. It's starting to get a little bit crowded on the fire wall. I'm also not sure what to do about the wiper switch, as you can see it's mounted in one of the delete plate holes. It will not fit in the original hole due to the size of the delay switch. It works well where it is, it just looks out of place. Ideas?
Rob http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0124.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0125.jpg |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
it wont' fit in the hole because of the diameter or your switch is bumping into something? If it wont' go up in stock location, I mounted my switch under the dash kinda right were your "heat" switch is.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
It's both an issue of side clearance and depth. I have a delay/washer controller addition to my wipers and because of it's size it interferes with the 12V conversion motor. I'm thinking of trying to put it in the "C" cable location adapting the "C" knob to control the wipers. The "T" is used to control my heater flap.
Rob |
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
OK, so I now have a working front air bag system...kinda, all the controls work fine it just that the tank does not hold a large enough volume of air to bring the truck back to ride height. So I can drop it to the ground and only come up about 3" on a full tank. It takes about 90 PSI to put the truck bumper 8" off the flat ground. I think I see a 250 PSI compressor in my near future. I did take it for a ride and it rides fine with no real change. A few pics of the finished product. The bottom pic is a crappy video.
Rob http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0128.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0129.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0134.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_DSCI0137.mp4 |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Drops that bumper to the ground!
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Looks great Rob!
How many gallons is your tank? |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
5 gallons
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Ah, I'll be running two 5's. Will be interesting to see how long it takes for the 480's to recover after airing out all four bags.
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I have 2 450's filling a 5g tank (technically 5 gal tanks aren't 5 gal) it takes 4-5min to fill zero to 150 psi. It seems like an eternity at times. Always run two comps and 5g tank if you can, if you can fit 1 8gallon tank, might be a good option or yah 2 fives, but to fill two fives is going to take close to ten min from zero to full. I get not even two air down/up until the comps kick on.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I'm running 2X 480's 250psi and 2X 4gal. So far I can lift to 5"@120psi with the compressors just kicking on when I am letting go of the air sw and it recovers in 1-1.5 min.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I've been making some progress on the wiring for the control panel. I've also added 2 more switches to the system: one for future rear lighting (reverse and bed/cargo) and one for the trailer mode control. All the connections are both soldered and heat shrunk. The complete wiring will be on a single connector for a little more ease of maintenance if needed.
I also received my new ignition switch, it's smaller then the standard aftermarket universal units which have an interference at the lower part of the dash. Rob http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...wiring%202.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0140.jpg http://i562.photobucket.com/albums/s...E/DSCI0141.jpg |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Love your attention to detail!
Lon |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Fast Toys looking good. " Soldered & Heat Shurnk " I know about heat shrunk insulators, please how you hold the wire while you solder. Also why solder, when all aircraft manufactures only crimp & heat shrink? Thanks in advance. Nut Case
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I just lay some pliers on the wire and let it hang over the bench. I crimp them first then solder, why? I don't have the correct tool for the perfect crimp, I just got used to this method and it works for me.
Rob |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I do the same thing Rob. Overkill, I guess, is my name. :lol:
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Did my eyes deceive me when I saw your truck in Street Trucks mag.
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Your eyes did not. Yes, it's in the readers rides section of the magazine.
Rob |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I've gotta get plugs and multi colored wire. Or, maybe I'll just get a kit. Where can a fella find sealed plug ins and such like used in automotive?
Looking good Rob, and soldering is a good thing. Nothin wrong with good solid connections. Chance |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I thought so. Looks just as good there as it does here. Congrats..
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
This has been an awesome build to follow. Amazing job and thanks for sharing it with us.
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Thanks all, Chance for the wire I keep all the left overs from projects I've done in the past. I've done 3 rewires and 4 EFI set ups so I've built a little stash. For connectors Weatherpac brand makes a nice kit with sealed connectors. I also buy stuff from All Electronics .com and Summit/Jegs etc.. Some of the good stuff is not in the catalog but can be found online with some searching. Both the 15 pin connector set and the new ignition switch came from Summit. They are both name brands and known quality products.
OK, so now I have a question; How in the heck do I get a picture to load into my sidebar? I have tried following the instructions but always get the message blocked by administrator or something like that. I know it's truck porn but my wife says it's OK. Rob |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
rob, you want an avatar pic? they have to be very small and low res. so your pic is prolly too big and its not letting it load. I think they tell you the specs that image needs to be. If you need help resizing, you can email it to me and I can resize it for you.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Fast where do you get the uninsulated connectors? I have to cut off the hard plastic insulators, crimp, solder, then slip on the shrink tube. If you can share were to get the uninsulated connectors it will save on step in the process. Thanks for sharing. Nut Case
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Good question Nut case, I do the same as you and pull the plastic insulator off. I did do a little searching and the terminals can be ordered without the plastic at: http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c273/P143.pdf
I have not used this company. Rob |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
I have purchased from Jameco before and they're good to do business with.
But, what I've found is that uninsulated terminals are considerably more $$ than regular ones, so I do the same thing and cut off the plastic, crimp, solder, and heat shrink them. I'm used to it so it doesn't take that much longer... |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Noticed you got you avatar up, looks good...Jim
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Thanks Jim, After doing a little research I have decided try building a belt driven compressor for my air bag system. Space is a little limited and some modifications will be required around the engine covers etc..but the idea of high CFMs and the ability to run air tools appeals to me. I know there are air driven hydraulic systems out there (we use them at work) which would not require an electric motor and could be used to lift a tilt bed later so that would be an additional benefit . Ah yes, more things to figure out, that's half the fun of it all.
Rob |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Fast: Thanks for the data. In my youth I drove trucks with air brakes, they all had engine driven compressors. I'd check large truck salvage yards for the compressors and such, I'm sure you could fab. a bracket that would tie into your engine. Nut Case
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This is the type of compressor you need its a York style ac compressor. Big rigs still use them but look for a '70-'80's full size ford or dodge truck or van. I had one on my Jeep for years. I could run an impact.
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Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
How are those lubricated if no coolant and lube are present? Does it have a sump or engine oil feed?
Great idea Rob! That's a huge component to fit but if anyone can it'd be you. Chance |
Re: Loadmaster '47 COE
Thanks Lower 50s, yep that's the one I've seen on a few posts about the subject. Thanks Chance, I'm not sure how well it will fit at this point, but heck, if we all just waited for someone else to figure stuff out then we would all be driving Honda Civics. I'd be willing to bet I could pick a team of 10 guys on this Forum and build just about anything automotive starting with just a few tools and an idea.
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