Re: Bubba's recycling project
 

Okay Sports fans, almost show time!!
Took me a little longer than I had planned to get things together but I am almost ready.I just remembered motor mounts tonight, I have the inline six mounts still on the truck and a pair of 72 V-8 mounts, just gotta find the part number for the new rubber pads.
Thanks to 63 Spud for parting with the old Holley Intake, It cleaned up pretty nice.
Finishing up the alternator brace, pulley shims came today from Summit, need to buy one more belt for the power steering pump . Hope to try and do a quick start this weekend before I drop it in....
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Looking great Bubba!!

Re: Bubba's recycling project
 

update on the heads, I did pack the piston top with modelers clay, bolted on a head and spun things slowly by hand to check total clearance. The compressed clay measured about .055 total quench.
I ended up using a .028 coated steel shim.
On the bad oil pump, I sprung for a new Melling
Picked up another Holley 8007 390 CFM on CL last weekend.

Re: Bubba's recycling project
 

looking good.

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Today is the day, out with the old motor , in with the new!! Happy fourth of July
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Came out with out a whimper- had to celebrate the 4th holiday with family and friends,I did not get the day off tomorrow off so the fresh paint in the engine bay can dry while I have to work, and I will hit it again on Saturday..
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Attachment 1130251

Attachment 1130252

IT IS IN!!! Bolted in and It Fits!!!
I had wondered about how much room I would have behind the V8 motor in the back frame holes for the motor mount, but it is enough to clear everything. HEI can clear the firewall easily.
Oops- I left the drill adapter on the old HEI that serves as oil pump priming tool-
Hung the headers on just for the test fire, and also to make sure they would fit.
they sure hang lower than I want , so I will put the ram horns on for permanent.

Was reading about anti seize on manifold bolts here on the forum, there seems to be a divided opinion about coating manifold bolts. I have some copper stuff that's good to 2000*F and I would rather tighten them once in a while than seize up in the heads and not come out.

Primed the motor with the drill, There is about 60 PSI oil pressure. shimmed the starter- what a PIA that is with the headers on.
Have to re do the hydro-boost lines as one line is right in the way for the power steering pump.
Battery box is rusted out , and all the bolts were rusted in place. That made lots of drilling and re-tapping threads.
lots of misc stuff to convert from the six-Had to shorten the HEI and tach wires- re route the vac line to the TH350. ran a hot ignition wire for the electric choke, shortened the oil pressure gauge tube- Where do you find the replacement ferules for the small 1/8" oil lines with out buying a whole new kit?? I want to change out the plastic line to braided or copper soon.

hope to get my parts orders at NAPA tomorrow and get this fired up soon. I will feel better hearing it run!!

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Nice job looks good! That car tent looks like a good idea as hot as its been.

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Looking good Bubba!! Way to go!!

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lookin' good! hope you get it fired up & rolling again soon

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Thanks guys!!
Putting up the shade tent worked out great! Turned on a fan in the garage, so it was not bad at all working on it, Glad the temperature was back in the 90s this weekend. The 108*F last week was just too hot.
I had hoped to hear it run by tonight, but the little things from the inline 6 conversion took longer than I thought it would.
Hurrying things usually just leads to doing it again the right way.

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What you going to use for oil?

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Hi Dave- Are you planning any trips over to western Idaho for Northwest Motorfest or Emmett 's 'Lost in the 50's" again this year?? Call me if you are headed this way. we will cruise again.
For oil I have been using Pennzoil racing oil ( maybe Valvoline- dang, I really should go look in the shop , I dont remember which right now )
It has more zinc added in than standard oil for the flat tappet cams .
I dumped a bottle of Lucas break in oil additive with this oil for start up.
I ran Delo and NAPA diesel oil for a while, but was too thick when things hit 5*F below this winter and I switched to a thinner racing oil and added Seafoam and tried to free up a sticky lifter in the six. It never did entirely quit clicking and the lifter noise kinda came and went randomly.

Edit- Okay I checked- Valvoline VR1 racing oil

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Looking good

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Looking real good.....
Speaking of which, any chance of you making it to the GoodGuys show next month in Spokane?
Would like to meet you, and would love to see your truck !!

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Spokane is only a 8 hour trip from here and a pretty easy drive.
My father in law went to a couple of Washington shows last year and I think one was the Goodguys show . I have not made that show yet,
We always tried to go to Reno for Hot August nights and we attended that show a few times when the kids were young.

July and August and September are now pretty busy around here with work, harvest and the yearly gauntlet of state and county fairs .
Now that oldest daughter attends Univ of Kansas , That late summer trip with all her stuff now adds to the schedule.

We kinda grumble about all the work of showing 4H and FFA livestock at the fairs , but our youngest daughter is to be a high school junior with only a couple of years left, and we really are going to miss it terribly when it is time that we can stop.

Then it may be time for the big bucket list , and seeing the northern lights in winter and a summer Alaska tour/ cruise are among the to do list.

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Back at it holidays over - second cutting alfalfa hay is all cut, baled and in the stack. It is still in the 100*s every day which really makes it tough.
Irrigating on the last field tonight.
I did get a chance to work on the truck most of the day. And Boys we got a runner tonight. :ennyd:
Still lots of loose ends and things to clean up, wiring to do, proper hoses to buy instead of the two I spliced together, but hey!! she starts and runs!! That is a great sound to hear that motor idle with the open headers!!
I do need to order a carb kit as the CL Holley leaks badly most everywhere but especially at the accelerator pump diaphragm. I had a few new teflon bowl gaskets and screw gaskets stashed away but not enough to stop all the leaks.
Since the motor was not bored, but just checked for tolerances and reassembled, I did not run it in a true break in manner but did add Lucas break in lube. I just let it run about 30 seconds about 4 or 5 times .
I added a power steering cooler in front of the radiator and plumbed it into the hydro boost lines to help keep the steering fluid cooler.
Attachment 1136183
Battery box was pretty well rotted out so I had grabbed a mid 80s truck battery pan at the pick and pull earlier this month. I cut it apart, soaked it in Vinegar for an couple of days then combined it all together. It was then undercoated so maybe it will last another 50 years or so. only thing I did not realize it the battery hold down screw is metric! I did not think of that until it was all done ...

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Attachment 1136188
I went cruzing last weekend at the Lost in the 50's cruise, and I was glad to see Daverod and his wife from the other side of the state again , and also found Valdez, CokeB, Rbar and Imperial Kustom taking in the cruise.

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Holley trick kit came from summit and the 8007 390 cfm is now rebuilt and installed.
It took a while to get everything kinda adjusted so things ran a little bit - I was trying to tweak it and start it by myself but I could not see the timing marks in the bright sunshine with the timing light so things were not working too well for while and i was getting frustrated
So I quit for awhile for a refreshment until my dad in law came over later to help and give free advice.
We finally got the timing sorted out and the carb adjusted and just let the motor run for 10 -15 minutes just to hear it purr.

The timing is now at 0 Tdc and It appears that i am one tooth off and cannot rotate any more clockwise due to the intake and vac canister are hitting--
I had set my #1 plug wire at the one o'clock hole next to the wire connections. The manual shows it one tower closer to the vac advance canister. (CW- which should retard it 45*-- 360/8=45) or am I way off in this thought???

Question my tired brain cannot compute tonight, If I move my plug wires one position clockwise to match the manual ,which should retard things and then I re stab the distributor one tooth CCW is that enough advance or will that just put me back where I am at now??? I read some thing about 1* at the dizzy = more at the crank?? Am I needing to move over CCW two teeth if I move the plug wires CW one tower over too???
Hoping this all makes more sense in the morning--- BUT IT RUNS!!!!!:clap::clap::ennyd:

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great to hear it purrrr.

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hey Dave!! you are alive We were just jacking your 52 thread in your absence. I was gonna come get the 52 if you did not show up soon.

Restabbed the distributor one tooth and reset the plug wires to proper location. I now have 12 initial - 20 mechanical and 32 all in but not exactly sure what RPM "all in" is yet. I 'll worry about the advance springs and curve a little later.

I am gonna have to pull the carb and reset the secondary throttle plates as I cannot get the idle down below 1000 and the vacuum is a little lower than i expected at 15 inches at 1000 rpm I adjusted the secondary throttle plate but I missed reading the part about the slot window and only .020 showing of the bleed slot showing on the secondary side. I left it a little wide

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Geez It has been awhile hasn't it??
I wish I had lots of great news and pictures but sadly the progress is pretty slow these days.
Just too many other demands on my extra time .
I think of Alan's words of wisdom about progress often, and how it can be small, but it is still progress.
So, I paid my membership up for another year.
Thanks for all the great ideas and help I have found here from you guys!!!

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;) relax u have all winter.:lol:

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Hey Dave how's things over on your side of the state??
Good part is that I have heat in the shop this winter !!:devil:

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Heat is a good thing.You"ll get all kinda things done now. My side sucks I'm going south.:lol::smoke:

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I sure hope I am not in trouble..
I parked the 64 about the end of fall and then kinda forgot about it.
Winter came and it has been at least 0 for the last few days when I realized OH NO -I may not have enough anti freeze.. so I pushed it in the garage when it stays about 48-50. It has been there 5 days now so it should be thawed.
Not sure why the radiator is dry and so far it looks unhurt. I am hoping it all leaked out before the freeze. what little fluids I found do not look like it would be enough for -5..
The good news is all the freeze plugs are still in place and no puddles on the floor after the 5 days.
I dont see any block damage after a quick check under the truck.

Geez, I checked all the tractors and other trucks and equipment in late fall, I just never did the 64..
sure hope I did not ruin the new motor......
I am feeling dumb !!:dohh:

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Crossing fingers for you! At least your working on it right? Two steps back and one forward progress ahead.

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Looks good! Your gonna give the ol inline 6 a proper burial right???

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So did it have any antifreeze or just straight water? Maybe I better go check my 52. It just got kicked outside. So where did the water go?

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A really wise man once said on this site something about progress still being progress even if it is small at times..
Thanks Alan- that thought keeps me going some days..
I had the 69 Chevelle out cruising around last weekend in the warm weather and decided I just have to make more time for the 64. I really miss driving it..

So the spring update -the motor is fine- it did not freeze - thank goodness!!
I rolled it in the garage when it was below zero and kept it above freezing the rest of the winter.

TODAY was the maiden trip down the street and back home too!!
It sure felt good to be driving it again!
She runs a little rough with the carb mixture and I just have the front float adjusted. It has a exhaust pop backfire at low rpm when in gear, but I think that is just the open headers without any backpressure,
I am going to put the old school ramhorn manifolds on for the permanent installation,
I just put on the headers for the initial few runs.


So the exhaust system is next- is there any "packaged" dual exhaust kits worth looking in to?? The muffler shop quote was about 600 bucks for dual 2" exhausts with basic turbo mufflers
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So I am a little late responding here,
But I sold the inline six to a friend who is putting it in a old Land Cruiser that already had a tired 250 ,
Actually I sold him the Offenhauser intake and the Holley 2 barrel for a fair price and threw in the motor
It is good to see it going to a good home.

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Good to hear from you, & glad to see you giving the '64 some attention. I can't wait to drive mine again & get that same feeling you had. That seems a little steep on the exhaust, but I dunno.

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Good to hear you're back to work on the truck. :)

Yeah that is a fair amount of money for an exhaust system, but that seems to be about the norm these days. That's the main reason more and more guys are building their own exhaust system.

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Have you wintered as well as the truck? Hey on the 2" kits Jegs, Summit, and Speedway are offering them at around $200 for a 2" pipe kit, but mufflers are extra so you can save a little off $600 depending on the $$ for the mufflers and
hangers & clamps. I don't know if you have seen Frank since I got some paint on him so I enclosed a pic take care Bubba...Vernski:lol:

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Thanks guys.

Vernski that truck is looking good!!
Captain -still hoping to get get up north to meet you and the North Idaho guys, Youngest daughter is looking at Univ of Idaho in Moscow and Montana State Univ in Bozeman.

While drinking coffee and waiting for daylight this morning I found these on Ebay . They look like a import version of the Speedway tru rams.
Any body ever tried them?? A search here on the site did not turn up really anything one way or the other. Would they work any different or better than a stock ramhorn?
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Glad to hear your new motor survived the winter! What's with the primer hood. Planning on getting started on body work this summer?
Those exhaust kits Vernski is talking about work pretty well. That is what I used on my truck. A lot of cutting, fitting, adjusting and lying on your back with a mig welder but they do the job. I still paid a muffler shop about $180 for tailpipes.

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Hi Mark!! !
I bead blasted your old Holley intake and it sure looks sweet sitting on my new motor!!

A friend had given me a hood last summer without any dents and since mine had a crease on the drivers side where the PO dropped a ladder on it, I went ahead and put it on last fall.

So today I removed the headers and loosely hung up the ram horns and studied things for a while....... like how to run the exhaust.

I never did really like how little clearance there was between the back of the HEI and the firewall so I went ahead and unbolted things and slid the whole motor and tranny ahead 1 inch and re-drilled the frame for the motor mounts and transmission crossmember.
It fits much better in the engine bay now.

I had done some searches here before and it seems that some guys are even using the front holes with a V-8 so I just went ahead and just went 1 inch ahead .

I had decided to go with the swept back ram horns on both sides so clearing the frame and crossmember is not a issue. I have one, And the spring swap meet is in two weeks maybe I can pick up another. If I have to, I may just order a matched set of Dorman replacements manifolds.

How much clearance do you have by the starter with the swept back manifolds, will a full size starter still fit???

Any body ever run the exhaust outside the frame railsand dump ahead of the rear wheels?? sure would be less clearance issues with the rear arms

Thinking about what to use for mufflers on 2 inch duals, (no cross over)
Smithys?? glasspacks? They may be too loud unless they were the long style.

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I have block hugger headers on mine so I can't comment on starter clearance. Mine comes off the collector and angles back at about 45degrees, very close to the back of the lower control arms. Then straight back with the mufflers outside the frame rails under the cab. Originally it was dumping in front of the rear wheels, very loud and obnoxious. Tailpipes made all the difference. Very tolerable noise level now. I used the inexpensive Thrush welded mufflers. I tried taking pictures but can't get any good angles from the garage floor.

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The new old style manifolds look good. :chevy:

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Hi Bubba just caught up on your build and it's awesome. I took my truck to a local muffler shop and had the exhaust come out under the step. I'm thinking the pipes were on the inside of frame. With knock off flow masters and chrome tips it way cheaper than 600. Maybe a different shop will do you better