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Re: Project Vitamin C-10
My 2 cents worth.
I also have a small welder, off brand, does a ok job on up to 1/4 inch but i've( meaning my skills) are lacking in welding sheet metal. fortunately I've made an friend who welds for a living. He builds staninless steel and other metal headers for dragsters and high end hot rods.. He is a real artist.. He wants to build a set of headers for my truck with the BB but I've not seen the need thus far. Not a drag car, just a daily driver type. |
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Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. I took some advice off the FAQ headlight upgrade thread. I was trying to figure out a good location for the relays. The FAQ showed them behind the grill. It's a good place, but I wanted them completly out of sight. I was thinking they will be visible behind the grill. I also wanted them to be easily accessed, so I moved them up some. They are located under the panel from the headlight mount panel to the radiator support. I roughed it out tonight just need to clean it up and paint. I also mounted the fan relay there as well. The wires will be routed so they can't be seen. |
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Slick!
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yep cool idea to move them up to where they cant be seen I am a believer of the minimalist look, or clean un-cluttered look Alan is an artist
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Got the bracket finished up. By keeping them up higher and sheltered it should keep them dry as well. I'm trying to figure out what AWG size is required for 20 amps, from the chart I found says a 16 AWG will carry 22 amps. The conductor size is .0508. The wires on the 12v feed to the relays measures about .090" (stripped) which shows on the chart to be a 11 AWG. I feel I should match the wire size that feeds the relay from the battery. The fan relay says 20 amps continous, but it has a 30 amp fuse. :uhmk: I have some left over wire from the main harness that measures .090". I will just use that to feed the relays. On the headlight relays I plan on feed 12v via one wire from the battery and split it to the relays. I will install a 20 amp circuit breaker on the single wire. For those of you that are following this thread and are wiring up your truck, don't listen to me. I'm asking questions and faking it til I make it here. :lol: |
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Oh Alan, it's almost as beautiful as your wood.....! :clap:
You are my inspiration...! :metal: |
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Nice job Alan. Make sure all your grounds are on bare metal.:metal:
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Good. :thumbs:
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Hurry up and get finished with the electrical..........Mines next ;)
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The electrical system you have engineered would make NASA happy.... :uhmk: Someday I hope to attend a Rod Run in your part of the country and touch this master piece in person. Again, YOU-B-THE-MAN...! :metal: |
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Thanks for the wire guage link, I saved it to my favorites for when needed. That will come in handy I am certain!
I am soooo gonna copy cat you on alot of this stuff... except of course I like a step side. I'm just saying... :smoke: |
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Everything I have seen you do, has been engineered with more than an adaquate cushion to perform without problems. A 14 gauge wire would work, 12 gauge would be better and 11 gauge is great. My only concern running a hot wire off the battery would be protection, and you have that covered. I got'a tell ya, I really love the wires running in the tubes. Just keep doing what your doing....! I know Airplane Mechanics who wish their work looked as good as yours.... :uhmk: Watch'n from the Cheap Seats. Danny |
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I should have run a larger tube in some areas. There might be somemore wires to run thru them. One being the signal wire from the temp sensor to the relay. Going out to figure that out............maybe. I stopped by Tractor supply today and looked at some wire. On the back of a pack of 14 gauge it said it was rated for 22 or 24 amps. I can't remember which. That chart said 16 gauge is good for 22. I think the package would be right. I'm so confussed. ;) |
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Relay question. Does it really matter if I hook up 12v signal from the dimmer switch to terminal 85 or 86? It looks to me that it is just firing the coil. I have conflicting schematics in front of me. One shows power coming in on 85 and ground on 86 and visa versa.
I almost made the mistake of hooking up the red wire on the relay pigtail to the battery. Upon further investigation the blue wire on terminal #30 is the main feed from the battery. What is the 87A terminal for? It's looking like I will have an extra wire coming from 87A which happens to be the red wire. |
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I got the 20 amp CB mounted for the headlights. Then mformed some soft aluminum tubing to route the wires for HI/LOW beams and fan relay. Thank goodness I used soft aluminum. It's so much easier to work with.
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Hey Alan,
Here is a little diagram I keep handy, cuz with only two working braincells, I forget a lot. I don't see where it should make any difference which direction the current flows thru the coil, it's still go'na close the circuit. Danny P.S. I did not know you worked on Jets, but after seeing your handy-work it does not surprise me... |
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Today I've removed the red wire from the center of the connector for 87A. If I would have realized this 2 days ago I would have moved the red wire to terminal 30 where the blue wire is now. I suppose it's not to late to do it now. I just don't like any other color than red feeding 12v. ;) Thought about going to the local junkyard today for some weatherpack connectors. Decided to just order them. |
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Beautiful work Alan.
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Any suggestions here. I bought a 59 impala temp sensor a couple years ago not thinking about the connector part. It's a pin style and I don't have a connector that style. What Chevy's ran a temp sensor with a blade style? Maybe the 70's had some. Do y'all think it would work if I could locate one? I've been googling it and searching parts stores and have yet to come up with anything. Ok, I might have found a solution here |
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I'm having second thoughts of running painted silver bumpers to match the roof. Leaning towards chrome instead. Any thoughts?
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