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Re: What did you do to your truck today!
Nate glad you got the choke ordered, i really did not need to change my starter i had to , the old one bolted to the bell housing and with the auto trans it has to bolt to the motor, so that's why i got it...my son should be here Monday morning and we will start the auto trans project....i painted before i put the new seals in so i hope everything stays dry.....
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Rear Baer calipers are on
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Ordered and received the power plant that will be going into my latest build....
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Finally got my rallies referbed..:metal:
Before and After. |
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Is that paint or powder coat? How much? Posted via Mobile Device |
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of course some people just cut the crossmember out. thats not fun either |
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I put an HEI in my 71 Cheyenne today, what a difference!
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Replaced the old oil pressure senor. This one keeps the motor running as long as there is 5lbs of oil pressure to it.
It was leaking so I took it out. Have no idea why it was leaking though.;):chevy: :lol::lol: http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/.../oilsenor2.jpg Here is the new one. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...d/Newsenor.jpg |
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Installed a vacuum gauge and painted door strikers
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I checked the timing location with a light first, I couldn't find the timing specs on the truck anywhere, so figured it'd be close enough. Yes, all i did was pull the cap off the old distributer, took note where the rotor was pointing, and dropped the new one in at the same location. Once it was running, I just set the timing light up again and used the same number the old one was set at, +7 at idle. |
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Cursed the Gol Danged 49ers (GO RAVENS!!!!) and removed my inner fenders and heater to make room for Vitage Air.
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My 60's tranny cross member is bolted ~ I guess the DPO changed it , I'm glad he had the hard job instead of me ! :lol: .
HEI , or at the very least a Pertronix Ignitor breaker points is the smart thing for ALL older engines , you simply cannot imagine the improvement until you try it . I hope Myyamr7 remembered to open the spark plugs up to at least .045" . Even breaker point ignitions need .035" . Oops ~ 'puter says re boot time . |
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Sanded and primed front bumper. Going to paint it after primer dries.
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I was finally able to get her out of the garage for the first real drive in almost two years. The last time I drove it was right before my son was born - 20 mo ago. Since then, too many things have conspired against me getting it out again.
I had to replace a headlight - the screws on the retaining ring felt like they were made out of peanut butter! Only one of them came out. The other two were starting to strip, so it was a whole lot of penetrating spray, but still no luck. Then I heated them up with a lighter, cooled, heated again, more penetrating spray, heated, etc. and they FINALLY came out. Got the new headlight in, and well, it was underwhelming. Next project will definitely be the headlight relay upgrade. Still, I managed to get a decent 30 miles or so on the clock today, and I even talked my wife into coming along. All in all, it was a great day. |
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Didn't work on my truck today but I did order a Porterbuilt Mild Rear Dropmember :metal:
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I put together a "nose hanger" for mine so I can work on it in a tent instead of out in the weather. Hopefully I just have a blown head gasket rather than a cracked head or something worse. I have the Cad 500 and Turbo 400 sitting there but I'm not ready to do the swap in 25 degree weather and need to get my other car running before I take the truck apart that far.
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I'm done for the day. I worked a little on the stance.
I am running the 338's (20 x 10 in back and 20 x 8.5 in the front) ans was unhappy with the backspacing. In fact, the rears, with 275 45's touched the bed on the inside, so I was running a 1" spacer in the rear. No spacer in the front with 245 40's The wheels still didn't fill up the wheel wells as well as I'd like. So, I took the 1's off the back and replaced them with 1.5's (nice billet ones at 150# torque) and replaced them with what I ordered at 1.5", and were *marked* 1.5", but turned out to be only about 1 3/8"...No biggie. Then, I put the 1" on the front. No rubbing, no issues. With spacers, I stay on top of the torques, using 150# for the spacer, and 90# for the wheels. People love to moan about using spacers. But I don't see any difference in the geometry relating to stress.... And if you aren't lazy, you check your wheels and wheel torques from time-to-time, anyway. Cheap insurance, as they say. Anyway, as far as looks go, in my opinion, there was a little difference in the rear, and quite a bit in the front. |
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I just looked back at my last post. Those other pics were crap. It's too late to edit in order to dump them. Here are a few that will show the differences in the stance a little better.
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Beautiful truck! I sanded on mine for two days!
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That's a lot better Mag. The wheels are more centered in the fenders now.
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I haven't had to do much to my '84 and '70 pickup, but I'm slowly making progress with the Suburban. I rebuilt the carburetor on it today, tried to get it tuned up and now the vacuum advance went out. I made a video of it running yesterday before the carb rebuild, it was running pretty good considering how dirty it was.
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Rebuilt the carb, mounted the tach, a little more rewiring, busted it off and moved it on its own power.
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Ordered my 3/5 static drop kit from ECE. Plus a new set of beauty rings...
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ole dollor gets an auto trans....well almost, got the four speed out, put the 168 tooth flex plate in , trans in, cooler lines run and installed , tried the 1 piece drive and its to long, well that happens, tried to put the starter on and it won't go, fly wheel to big, went to Lubbock to dropped off two piece drive shaft at drive line shop, shop said over $300.00 to fix it, i said no, found another drive line shop for about $150.00 with new carrier brg and step down joint...came back to Anton and ordered a new 153 tooth flex plate from summit racing , still no lokar shifter in the mail...so trans out ,flex plate out , ole dollor setting on stands....hope everybody else is having a better day....
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Dropped engine and trans in the frame & started the pluming:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j7...ps0c460874.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j7...psfd295419.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j7...ps79b47690.jpg http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j7...ps8146ed96.jpg _________ My build: 1970 C10, 550hp LSX, Ridetech suspsension http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556610 |
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Put on 4 1" spacers, I did not like how far the wheels were under the truck.
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With the different angle of the shots, these pics are as close as I could get to "before" and after" moving the 1" spacers from the rear to the front, and installing new 1.5" spacers in the rear. Naturally, tire size and wheel size and backspacing are all-important to fit and stance, but this may give you *some* idea. It appears to be a bigger (I think *better*) change in the front than shows on the pics. And the 1/4' wider in the back is really minor. But I like it better than before. |
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I think a WTB post will get you some good offers from Forum sellers.
I think I paid about $60 (for each end) for good billet spacers. |
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