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Ha, Thanks Regan.
Here are the best parts of our 3 shifters into 1 with a new re-chromed stick, handles, and hardware. Oh yes, it's a beauty! :ww: |
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And a mockup of the restored shifter with NOS rods, levers, buttons, new bushings, hardware, etc.
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Looks great! Must feel like Christmas morning for you! Keep the updates coming please.
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Thanks 69cam, I am definitely enjoying myself. The steady progress of everyone involved makes it easy to keep the updates happening.
Set up the backup light switch to make sure it’s going to work properly with the Hurst linkage. Easy peasy, just straightening out the rod some makes it just long enough to actuate the switch. Oh yeah, this stuff is ready to put in the car.:c2: |
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OE rear window trim and drip rail moldings are being tested no issues so far. Kelly also fixed the small golf ball dent in the fender extension mentioned earlier.
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So, the other 2 shifters are reassembled with the main stick replacement on one and some minor parts on both. Still have 4 complete Ram 4 shifters with linkage for just one car aka “The Hoard”! :lol: I should start selling off most of the other shifters including my V-Gate stuff now that I’ve settled on what I’m running.
Side note: To date, that selling-off stuff hasn’t really happened yet in fact I did just barely pick up another Ram 4 boot. |
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Difficult to stop a good habit!
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Ain’t that the truth. ;)
Time to mockup the front of our “Good to go!” 511 (water pump, deep groove pulleys, alternator, and such), found our short water pump wouldn’t quite clear the modified timing cover Fastlane did for us. A few passes with a small air grinder, some touchup paint and it’s all good. |
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Hey looks great, I like the look of the tranny!! What's the bar welded across the timing cover for? I've never seen that before!!!
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Thank you Troy. I think it has to do with minimizing timing cover flex when retrofitting a roller cam and button into an earlier SBC/BBC without a cam retainer plate. It’s an old racer trick to strengthen the cover and aid in perfect timing, limiting the cam movement. He also ground the timing tab to a point at true TDC with our degreed balancer. Mike "Gold" Lane really went the extra mile and did lots of cool go-fast stuff for the 511.
After a few trips to the parts store, I’m satisfied that we have some correct-length fan belts. Not a lot of adjustment here due to the taller valve covers. Early high-performance big blocks used to run a short belt from the water pump to the crank (no adjustment) when equipped with manual steering. This type of alternator bracket pulley setup is found on L72/L88 427’s which is the look for our day two, Grumpy’s Toy, Motion mash-up car. I just can’t bring myself to paint everything flat black like the Grump so famously did. |
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Just for fun, I decided to bolt on the carb and our old fly-eye air cleaner. If I remember correctly the replacement filter material, bought off eBay years ago is supposed to be flame retardant (?).
Here’s an old pic of Bill “Grumpy” Jenkins at the 1967 NHRA Nationals, this shot reminds me so much of Terry “The Tiger” from American Graffiti. :lol: |
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Looks great! Never thought of it but they could be brothers.
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My step brother had a V8 Vega back in the old days and he had one of those air cleaners!!! The problem is it always back fired and burned the filter!!!:lol:
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Messing with the headers next, our Super Scavenger’s came with a round gasket vs the usual square style. Cutting some slots on the ends to make them easier to install. Mark Kidd brought up something while he was tuning this motor. He said that when running headers on old-style heads, it’s nearly impossible to change the plugs without loosening the headers. He explained that you can’t get a socket on the larger 13/16” bodied plug, it won’t clear. I haven’t run headers on an early set of bbc heads since I was a kid and I swear I was able to get the socket on them. My usual over the years has been exhaust manifolds, or if it was headers, they just happened to go on later heads with the short reach 5/8” peanut plug (for a 1970 on up bbc). I thought this was interesting and decided to try it, dang he was right (3rd pic cylinder #5 is the worst). These headers are a 2” primary tube which probably has something to do with it. Perhaps all those years ago when more of these early style heads were around the header manufacturers gave more clearance, I don’t know. |
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http://https://www.67-72chevytrucks....1&d=1686489748
That was a great thread! Car is awesome. Here’s a pic of my 68 convertible, figured you would like it. |
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I appreciate that thank you ghackett1. You’re right, that’s a very nice looking 68 you have there.
It’s a good thing that they do make a long reach gasket type plug with a 5/8” body that fixes this issue (link is to what I bought). https://www.ngk.com/ngk-6364-bkr6es-nickel-spark-plug This plug is so much better, future tune-ups got much easier thanks to Mark’s advice. The last pic is just fun to get some rating action started, thanks everyone for following! ;) |
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This is an internally regulated 12si high output alternator that’ll keep up with all the power needs of the not so Day 2 stuff we’ll be using. Currently (Ha get it, currently :rolleyes:) re-clocking it as these always come clocked for a passenger side mount not drivers. Already changed out the pulley for an old school deep groove. I like these alternators they have an old school look and still give plenty of juice for electric fans, fuel pumps, A/C, stereos, etc. :5150:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-47293 |
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The orange headers are really growing on me. Like Chevy Chase said, “Yes! Ahhh Hahahaaa, I Like It!” :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zdlZgJ1sk8 |
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I love the orange headers! Thanks for the updated pics!
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Have you had the motor in the car with that HEI set in? I know on a first gen they are really tight to the firewall with stock towers on the subframe. I have a buddy with a 67 and a small block and every couple years it seams it touches just enough over time to crack the cap, even with new motor mounts and transmission mount.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=165 Window trim fitment is not going very well for the windshield, both OE and aftermarket. This particular area normally is not that great on first-gen Camaros anyway. Kelly discovered with our car the windshield opening at the top is just a bit wider (roughly a 1/4”) than a factory car, not good. Another frustration is the dang molding clip studs have been popping off both front and rear (mainly from the roof skin) during this process, moving to a screw-in style stud for the fix. The sharpie marks around the back window are clip locations. The good news (I’ll mention this again) is that the back window trim both OE and aftermarket fits great. |
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Time to check out the C10 489 build (you know "Why build one when you can have two at twice the price..." ;)) that’s been in process at Fastlane Machine. The block has been completely machined, deburred, and cleaned, Mike was just about to start assembling this motor. :clap:
I’m very excited to see how it will compare with our “Good to go!” 511. With a little less stroke, bore, cam, iron vs aluminum head, intake configuration (air gap vs factory dual plane, oval vs rectangle port) as well as a vacuum vs mech secondary 850 Holley. |
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The lower body lines and gaps at the back of the doors needed more work, Kelly has both sides dialed in. Also, a temporary install of the windshield to help aid with the trim fitment. He’s been working the windshield opening and it is getting better. But the trim barely covers the upper opening and is still not fitting quite right.
The fenders, hood, and cowl panel also went back on while this windshield is in to check the lower trim fitment. More to come on what was found… :hmm: |
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