Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
That engine looks sweet! Nice job!
It sucks about the headers but, I would take them off and put them in a pipe chain vise with rags around where the chain will go to prevent any marking. Then widdle down a 2x4 so it will go in the collector end and tweak them just enough to clear. It won't take much to get them to move. Don't try bending them while bolted to the engine! You could possibly warp the flange. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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If cutting and welding is an option, you could slit the inside about 3/4 the way through in two or three places about an inch apart and weld it bac up to put kind of a natural curve into the collector. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
I ran in the same issue when I tried to fit up both Dougs and Doug Thorleys. I ended up returning both sets to Slummit Racing (love their return policy). In the end I bought a set of Stan's. They fit great on my mock up but that was with stock shackles also. I too am running the ORD shackles, it will be interesting to see how mine fit. I bought the Stans purposely bare in case I needed to make a small tweak and then get them ceramic coated locally. I will say that overall the Stans were the highest quality but also a little more $$.
My set up is a little different that I had to move my engine 1-7/8" forward to allow for the NV4500 tranny. You've done such an amazing job detailing out this chassis I'm not sure how you could tweak the header without disturbing the ceramic coating. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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I talked to Doug Thorely this morning and we went through the pictures I sent over. He thinks it's the aftermarket Shackle being to thick but I told him even with the sock shackle the nut on the bolt will still interfere.. He's going to send the pics off to the engineers (or lack there of) lol and see what they come back with. I asked him " why wouldn't;t they just have the end of the collector tube bent a 1/4" inwards" he laughed and said that would require logic. The guy I was talking with suggested I put in a temporarily spacer and mount the rest of the exhaust system to force the header tube to bend inwards to give it the clearance I need. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Ran into another problem, but this is 100% my fault and nobody else to blame but myself.
When I ordered the engine, I inaccurately measured the distance between the engine block to the end of the water pump. I ordered my engine to come with a long style pump and I needed a short style.. The Water pump pully and the crankcase pully need to be replaced, too.. I'm sure making a habit out of pissing $$$$ away. I do have my old pullys and I was thinking of maybe just having those anodized locally but that would probably cost more than new aluminum spectre's like the one's on there now. I also noticed the Crankcase pully on my old engine is a 4 groove (2+2 style) Do I need a 4 groove pully to run AC or can I use a 3 Groove? |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Mike PM sent - looks like I was mistaken and it's an extra groove on the WP pulley rather than the crank for AIR system. Does this pic help?
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
This thread has pics that may help as regards the AC brackets: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326242
Can supplement with pics from my Blazer later in week when I return |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Thanks, Pete look forward to those pics of your blazer.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Just enjoyed scrolling through your build. I just started breaking down my 72 k10 today. I have a thread started if you want to check it out. Any advice you could give for someone just starting would be greatly appreciated. I grew up in San Jose until I joined the Marines in 98. I live just above Sacramento now. Your blazer is looking great. Glad to see a one man crew can tackle a project like this.
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You don't have the brackets for the A/C? |
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The flanges on the Doug Thorley headers are really thick..It might work with them bolted to the engine. I'll give it try using very little force to see if it might budge just enough. |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Since you are just starting the tear down, my first bit of advice 1. Take lots of pictures 2. Bag and tag every piece of hardware with correct name of the bolt and part it goes too. What the service manual refers to it as. When I bagged an tagged some bolts and wrote down descriptions to what I thought the part was instead of the correct part/description it will be confusing 6 months from now Good luck on your build. I'll be following along |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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Some forward progress made. After going back in forth with figuring my best options with the header, I decided that cutting it 1 1/2" off the end was the best solution.
I took it to classic muffler in South San Jose. This guy Andy is super cool. I brought my header in and showed him what I needed done and within 5 minutes he handed it back to and didn't even charge me. Attachment 1400773 Attachment 1400774 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Glad that's worked out - you'll be cruising soon enough!
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
You can't beat a fix like that. Well done.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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My engine does not look like it's lined up correctly to me.. If anyone could chime in that would know, please do before I decide to remove the engine and remount it again.
The first picture is the passenger side mount. I measure from the front of the engine mount to the side of the frame rail and it is 2 3/4" Attachment 1411542 The second picture is the same side but from the rear of the mount and it measures at 3" Attachment 1411541 The third and fourth picture is the driver side. The front of the engine mount measured at 2 1/2" and the rear of the mount measured at 2 3/4" Attachment 1411539 Attachment 1411540 |
Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Overly anal much? That's within 1/8" of being dead center. It should be fine, but if you can't stand it, loosen the mount bolts and stick a crowbar between the mount and crossmember on the driver side and pry up slightly. You only need to move an 1/8". Tighten it up and your good to go.
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
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The reason I even brought it up is because the engineers at Doug Thorley said the reason my header might not be fitting correctly is they noticed I had a new crate engine and that it could be miss-aligned. |
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