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Onto the Oil pressure issue. I have a numerical gage that I hooked up and the PSI at idle is 65-70 when I rev it is goes to 80. Now I did not leave the gage on until it warmed up I just checked it and then I had to disconnect it because I had to leave for work, and it was just and under the hood type install. I am not sure if I should be concerned about it but for now it seems to not be hurting anything.

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Might consider using thinner oil. I've got a melling high volume pump on mine and it has real high pressure also. Been using it for over 20 years, no issues with that part of my truck.

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Yeah the break in oil I am using is straight 30 weight oil, and once I drain that I will switch to 5w 30 to run in it from then on.

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sounds like a good plan on switching oil

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Apparently there is an adjustment screw on the oil pick up that regulates oil pressure. Do any of you guys know how many turns to bring it down 20psi? I have a small annoying leak in my pan gasket and I need to replace it anyway so I figured since the pan was going to be off it would be a perfect time to adjust the PSI.

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Congrats on the new Motor, cool video! too bad about the tranny and steering. Keep up the hard work it is really paying off now.

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Unless you have some different oil pump, there isn't an adjusting screw on the pickup. On a normal oil pump, the oil pressure relief spring regulates the pressure. There is a roll pin that keeps the spring in place. If there happens to be a washer between the roll pin and the spring, take that out and it will drop your oil pressure a little. Or you could just replace that HV pump with a standard volume oil pump. The standard volume pump will be just fine for what you're doing. As a general rule on most engines, you need 10 psi for every 1000 rpms.

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Like CaptainFab I have not heard of an adjustment screw on the stock pickups.

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I don't know one way or another, I am just going on what the guy who owns the business that did all the machining and assembly on the engine. He said that the spring and roll pin is only in case the filter gets clogged, the pressure relief will blow out, but that there is an adjustment screw on the new pick up. I will call him and confirm. This is not a stock pick up.
This might be why I have the annoying oil leak on the pan gasket. Either way I need to drop the pan, so I will up date you guys on what I find. Thanks for the help.

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Never heard of adjustment on the pickup. If it where me id replace the pan gasket with a Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket can be purchased at any auto parts store. Then put it back together, and run it like that. Take it on a few good drives get it too normal operating temp and see what the oil pressure does than. I wouldnt be concerned at all, Mine runs at 60 psi and goes up from there but once it gets good and hot it will drop.

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:agree: You might also want to consider removing a valve cover to visually confirm adequate dis·tri·bu·tion.

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LOL I have the Felpro one piece gasket. I had just installed it about 1000 miles before my engine disintegrated last year. I decided to reuse it since it was in such great shape. Well it must not have been it that great of shape after all.

I did take my valve covers off because I had a small leak on the supposedly reusable "never leak" rubber gaskets also. I put a finger smear of RTV on both sides and reinstalled and it seams to be working fine now, but there was good coverage over the entire valve assembly. I did not crank the engine with them off because I did not want the mess. It reacts as others have said. at idle it is around 65 psi and in the middle of the gage then around 2000 rpm it is on the high side. I wonder if this is why my really nice "reusable" pan gasket failed. I might get an old tall valve cover and cut the top out and install a piece of clear plex to it so I can see the opperation.

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The only pressure the pan gasket will see is the crankcase pressure, which has nothing to do with the oil pressure. Just the ring blow by if it's not vented well enough. If you have a good gasket on the pan and it leaks there are many causes. Pinched gaskets on steel pans where the bolts were over tightened in the past is very common. On mine I can not get the front of the pan to the front cover joint to seal. Never in the time I have had it. I've pulled it apart a few times, cleaned, refit the gaskets, checked the pan and front cover surfaces, etc and have never been able to get a good seal there.

Sometimes its not the pan gasket, but the rear crank seal.

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Isn't the viscosity of 5w-30 the same as straight up SAE 30 in warmer weather? I think 5w is just the cold weather viscosity.

Edit: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

For the leaky gaskets, RTV works wonders!

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That's what I was thinking, 10w for summer, 5w for winter, or the other way around.
Anyway,wWhere is the pan gasket leaking from?

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Don't blame you, I wouldn't turn it over without valve covers on either. Clear valve covers, my younger brother did that many years ago. Unless you think it'd look trick, go for it - I just check to see things are coated. For pressure, I think, if you blew out your oil filter seal, then you'd know you have too much pressure.

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I would not install them permantly just to check oil flow then replace with the aluminum ones.

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My 95 always starts @ 85bs and settels to 75lbs it is a crate engine w/40000 mi on it and no problems or leaks for the last 3 yrs, I push it hard plowing snow or pulling a trailer.

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That is good to know I have been a little concerned about the difference from what it used to be vs what it is now. Seems like a lot of guys are having the same readings on their stock gage.

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looks very fine

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The work on your truck looks great. Did you make the AC delete filler panel? If so are you interested in making/selling anymore? I have been looking for sources for bolt-in/fastener type panels (I have a 1972 C10). Porterbuilt panels look great but they only recommend welding them. I have found one source on e-bay: LRE Fab Shop. http://stores.ebay.com/LRE-Fab-Shop. Thanks for any input.

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Hey11, welcome to the board, Yes I did make it and it was super easy. I made it out of 18 ga. stainless steel but it could be made out of aluminum of carbon steel also. I just did not want to deal with trying to paint it or oxidation issues. I just took an old cardboard box and cut the shape I needed to completely cover all the holes, then transferred that to the steel and cut it out. I used 1/4 inch thick sticky back foam to make a gasket so the steel would not scratch my newly painted firewall, and screwed it into place.

My philosophy is you can take any ideas from my build and incorporate them into yours, but as soon as I start fabing things for others it becomes work, not my hobby.

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when the fun stops the job begins

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Mike, thank-you for sharing the info on how you made the panel. I am a fan of stainless steel parts when possible. Also thanks for noticing that was my first post. I have been following the forum for about 4 years and have learned much from all the people and their trucks on this board.

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When I bought my C20 I had wanted to get into a project truck for a while but did not have the time or the money. This $700 gem fell into my lap and I have learned so much from this board. I encourage you to give the fabrication a try. Start small on the non critical stuff, then work your way into the more important components. I have done so much more on this truck than I thought I ever would.

From your user name sounds like you have a truck you like to race. Do you have any picks of it?

Mike