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Scot this is what I have come up with. I don't like drilling holes in the arms, but I see no choice. I think a small hole in the side of the upper ball joint pocket might be safe. I don't have a "Made for You" line clamp large enough, so I may order some of those instead of this style.

Sorry about the thread-jack. I'll move these to my post later if you prefer.

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How about bending something in the shape of an "S" to go over the arm, and have the lower part hold the hose?

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would something like this with the tab work for you guys? possibly bolt the clamp to the arm, and use the tab to secure the brake line clamp too...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...mp-p-1727.html

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Ken, I considered the plated BJ area but it seemed to be too far toward the end of the a-arm to be optimal. I don't mind the discussion topic or your pics....

Jon, I have considered various options on your suggestion. I was actually going to just weld a tab to the a-arm & use a line clamp screwed to the tab. The issue was I wanted to be able to shift the line to the optimal position so there's no binding during steering as well as suspension travel. Still considering options though....

Heath, I did look into these but deemed them 'too bulky' for this application. I even considered buying one & cutting it in half to yield 2 smaller clamps. I did choose a similar option & should know by this weekend if it will work. Of course, I'll post pics as soon as it happens (or it didn't happen right?) :lol: .

I did finish up my hard brake lines @ the front end of the frame. I need to get some hardware today to permanently mount everything & then I'll get some pics. Still waiting on the 'tech' guy to look @ my fuel line pics & decide if they sent me the wrong lines or if I don't know what I'm talking about....

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sounds like you got it covered...

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Scot- My problem area is the castle nut on the upper ball joint. The line want to pull against it when turned sharp. I bent the hard line that is attached to the caliper, but the soft line still gets very close.

I talked with Tony at Ride Tech about drilling holes in that area. He said it would not be a concern. In fact he assured me that the upper control arm has almost no load on it, and we would be safe to drill and tap the control arm tubes.I appreciate his knowledge, but I just can't bring myself to do that, so I am going to drill the ball joint cup.

Considering your needs, the www.made4uproducts.com Screwless Chazis Clamp would be ideal.

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those clamps look nice , i think earls have simulair ones , you might even be able to make youre own if you have some of that aluminium left you used to make the spacers with .
it might allso pay of to scrounge around at a pick and pull , maibe one for big rigs or farm equipment , hydraulic lines on those vehicles are about the same size .

just a little bit of comment on the gaugecluster , not sure of the lexan front is strong enough to hold the cauges without cracking over time , wat might work is making a support in the rear so the gauges are held in the rear as whell so the full weight doest hang ontoo the lexan ..... not sure if that makes sence to you the way i tell it but as deep as the gauges are mounted they want to pull the top of the lexan in and push the bottom out and i suspect that on a bumpy road the load will be a little to much for the plastic and it will crack

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Yes, the OE gauge 'face' (lexan?) is definitely not ideal for rigidity. If the panel is disassembled (but the gauges still installed in the panel), it is very flimsy. Assembled.... not too bad, but not ideal.

I have a couple of potential solutions. Option #1: make the front panel from a sheet of ~.250" aluminum. If I can get my buddies to get involved, I would really like to recess the gauges slightly @ the same time so they're not flush mounted. Con's = cost (materials plus buddies 'time'). Option #2: use the existing face & panel bond a thin sheet of steel/alum behind it to stiffen things up (I could then even open up the current holes allowing the counter-sink option I've considered w/the alum version). Pros: a) already have the panel bond adhesive avail; b) GF's family owns a precision sheetmetal co so I can get the steel for cheap; c) budget & easy.

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Those are for 1 5/8" tubing. The ART arms are 1.25"....

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do they by any chance have a waterjetcutter , that would make the choice verry eazy

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No waterjet but they have laser equipment. It's also a whole different ballgame grabbing a piece of drop material off the shelf myself vs. getting an employee to make me a part/some parts. I just can't ask that of them.

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Dang it, you are right. I ran across them while looking up the T-Clamps. I didn't research the tube size when I posted it this morning. Looks like the Single place T-Clamp will be the one I need.

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My a-arms are also the 1st design where yours are a revision. Your arm have one main 'hoop' that attaches to the BJ plate. Mine has 2 separate 'legs' that attach to the BJ plate where you considered drilling/tapping.

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I'm freakin' burning out on this stuff..... I'm trying to finalize everything that's bolted to the frame so I can disassemble for color. The latest hickup? The lower ART arms had the shock bracket re-worked so it wouldn't be the lowest portion of the arm (this was done w/the notched OE c.member when it was on my 68). Now the arms are being used w/a Dropmember.

My shock brackets won't work; not enough travel distance. Nates shock brackets won't work either. I guess his lower mount is spaced farther out-board vs. where I welded my lower mounts so the shock is contacting both the upper a-arm shaft nut & the side of the frame where it 'dimples' @ the OE shock stud location.

I going to have to modify one upper mount or the other to create something that will work....

:waah:

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Scot- Would it be easier to buy a universal weld on upper bracket? It might give you more travel, and save some time.

I got my shocks yesterday, and I am worried they are not long enough. With the truck in the air and the suspension fully extended it's about 7/8" too short.

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Did you use the relocators supplied w/the Ride Tech front kit?

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There were no relocators supplied. I don't think that is necessary with the new arms.

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They list a p/n for upper shock brackets on the front Cool Ride kits for 63-72's & 73-87's. I wonder what the deal is there?

For now, my solution will be to chop off the existing dbl shear upper tabs from my fabbed brackets & create new, taller versions. Since the 'base' of the bracket bolts to both the top & side of the frame, I can get that part accomplished & weld the tabs on later when final ride height is established (verified).

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Any new progress?

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I got some 'clamps' made to retain the brake hoses. No progress on possibly making a run of them to help others though. This week (well, 2hrs last night is the only shop time I've gotten in the last 1.5 weeks), I made the side & top plates for my new front shock brackets. I'm hoping to get some additional time out there before the end of the week to make the uprights that will actually connect the shock to the bracket. Pics of both to come once the shock mounts are closer.

I got my missing fuel line in. Of course, it still isn't quite what I need so it's going to need a little tweaking but I have to get a decent tubing bender (I'm tired of using the cheap, POS, 3-in-1 combo bender).

I did sell some parts on C.list to helpfully aid in my PC'ing hopes. But like you, life seems to be butting in the way. The inconsistent sprinkler system @ the house, the kids Hummer H3 a/c woes, & that yearly ins. premium are a few things challenging for the rights to that $$..... :lol: .

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I feel your pain brother.

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Don't tell me about the pain......just show me the baby! :lol:

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My 'latest' version of front shock brackets are 1/2 way there.

To recap.... I had to make new uppers because I modified the ART lower shock mount (one of the 1st batches of these a-arms). Even tweaking my lower mounting tabs wouldn't work w/PB's DM shock recommendation (either than shock angle would be in a bind situation or the shock made contact w/the a-arm or frame rail).

Since I had to remake the upper mount, I decided to use the Bilsteins I already had on the shelf as they offer a slightly better stroke ratio for my combo. I set the mounts up so the 15.5" fully extended shock is @ 13.5 @ ride height (6.5" bag height). Then, if aired out, the shock will be @ its 10" limit on compression.

I did these w/some basic poster-board templates & copied them to .187 steel. They were gross cut w/a 4" angle grinder & whittled from there so they're not perfect. The pics don't show but I made boxing plates for the front, back, & top.

Sorry for the crappy cell pics. I figured something was better than nothing....

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Looking good IMO.

Ratty 46

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Looks good to me as well.