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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
The best way to find out whats going on with the radio is to pull it out of the truck and bench test the entire system, head unit, amps, capacitor, everything, if it still buzzes when its out of the truck then its not an electrical issue its a hardware issue.
At that point you need to start breaking down the problem even further and start eliminating hardware untill you find the problem, start with nothing but a head unit and known good speakers if it buzzes then its the head unit, if it doesnt add amps untill you find out which component is the problem. Its likely that you have a bad head unit or amplifier, but it could also be something as simple as the signal cables between the head unit and the amps. |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Thanks, I'm hip to the advice. Cut everything loose and hooked straight to battery, noise with truck on. Put a filter in that, quiet! Ok, hooked back to fuse box with filter, noise. Ran out of time at that point. Gonna run a ground to the battery and try that next.
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Must...not...rattle...off...whole...page...of...meat...stick...jokes....
I actually considered a numbered list for a moment, but I thought that'd be overdoing it. |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Ok so there is feedback, this problem is usualy associated with a poor ground or using a gauge of wire that is too small.
How many grounding straps do you have connecting the cab to the frame, there should be 2 minimum. You will run into grounding problems if you have no grounding straps, or if you didnt remove the paint or powder coat on the cab and frame where the connecter touches them. I could spend alot of time doing a write up on this but if you want I have unlimited long distance if you want to hit me with your number, first name and a good time to call in a private message I can call you and talk to you about it. |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
I appreciate it. I have 4-ga welding cable sanded and dielectric greased. One core to frame, one cab to frame, one motor to frame, one motor to batt. Have regular strap cab to motor. I think that's it. I may beef that up a bit more. I've done all the way to 900w RMS triamped systems with 8 speakers, but this has been a pain. Radio Is currently grounded to frame. I'm just kinda poking at it, more worried about this vibe now. Good advice, though, I think I'm gonna run more grounds next.
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
I went back and read through your entire build again (3rd time) You obviously dont have a grounding strap issue.
A few tips and tricks. Run a seperate power block just for your audio equipment and bypass all the factory truck wiring completely, when doing an audio installation clean direct power is king. Use high strand count wire for both power and ground. Use a noise filter. Use a Volt Ohm meter and check all your work. This will solve the problem. |
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Where we at on Yeller? Been awful quiet around here.
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Ok so I looked at the wiring diagram on my Kenwood because I thought there might be a seperate signal in to power on option but there isnt, there is only a signal out to power on option for amplifiers. You will need a seperate relay that will hook up to the signal to power on wire from the ignition that will cut power to the dedicated power source when the ignition is off, you can pick up this relay at your local car audio installation business.
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You could get in on this video thing while your re-doing the Yeller stuff. .....action........saw zall rrrrRrrrRRR, then tha big hammer!
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
The thought has crossed my mind- the 10-year old loves his videos, maybe we'll make it a project!
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
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Ok, so I need to update. The computer caught the DOJ virus, thank you russians, there goes $100, but the laptop works now. Ok, truck bidness. Long and short, we still have the vibration. We've literaly replaced everything but the shocks, and theyre next. Found a great DIY shock relocator thread, finally some pics so I could see what the deal is. I will get some parts this week and give that a go. Still need to fix the vac leak, stereo, heater,etc. It's a great life if ya don't weaken! Here ya go-
Our new 3.73! Maan, this thing was crusty. Note the end of the rusted up trailing arm lying on the trailer I cut off. Oy Vey! Guts looked good, though, so I wire brushed 'er and - Attachment 1027058 Voila! Nice and red. They don't make that primer anymore, shame. Good stuff. Attachment 1027059 This seemed like a prime time to swap the bent Rally out, so I put Boppa on the case. Don't he look happy? Attachment 1027060 His handiwork- The new one and tire balanced with only .5 oz. of weight, and the tire guy said it rolled nice and true. That's good, right? Attachment 1027061 Yours truly and Boppa painting the newly sealed and lubed rearend. Attachment 1027062 |
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So, now we got a rearend. What to do?
Strip it to the frame, that's what! Attachment 1027071 We split the trailing arms and oh, what we found. we had bolted them together 14 years ago when we knew there was some problems, but wow. This is not the worst of it- big rot here. Attachment 1027072 So we got some new ones, painted them up and welded 'em up, painted and turned the new brake drums, and got new prothane bushings in the trailing arms. Attachment 1027073 Boppa complaining about some sort of elder abuse and slave labor, I wasn't really paying attention. Attachment 1027074 All ready to go, now what do we do? Attachment 1027075 |
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SLAP LEATHER, BABY! Boppa got a set of bolts bent up at the spring shop, and I made an adjustable drop kit. What's that, you ask? You get a bunch of 1/2x2x7" long aluminum bars and bolts good for 2 1/2 inches and drill 2 .783 holes in them centered on 4.250 centers and Voila! adjustable drop! Stack more blocks on till you like it! We have about an inch in right now. Boppa came out and we stabbed that dude in.:metal::smoke:
These 2 gentlemen are about to rob this convenience store. Attachment 1027085 Whata ya think? it has a pretty good rake, but we kinda like it. I dunno, it's not really done yet. Attachment 1027086 I like the drop! Attachment 1027087 The Bad:Now, we have a good case of Chevy Lean to fix, the vibration is still there, it needs an alignment, but as you can see, we replaced everything but the shocks, and a very experienced guy said that's what he'd throw his rope at. The speedo is waaaaaay outta whack. So, I'm gonna fab up some extenders and order the shocks and the new driven speedo gear next. The Good: The 3.73 really woke up the truck. It will fry tire from a 15 MPH roll. Seems to really pep it up at highway speed too. Can't wait to get the vacuum leak fixed, that oughta help. I'm off for 10 days over the holidays, so hopefully we'll have progress. Also wanted to say thanks for all the help and support. I'd be a liar if I said this hasn't been frustrating, and an extreme test of my patience, but I digress. Thanks again, and thanks for playing along! |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
I'm guessing you found something else you can't leave be?
Great work guys! It's going to look NICE back there and hopefully you've resolved the shimmy. I'd agree on the ralley wheels too. How bout a link to that DIY relocate thread? |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Ask and ye shall recieve!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200 It's a very good write-up, explains a lot. We still have the vibration, but we're working on it! |
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Looks like I was posting right in the middle of your story.
Truck looks awesome!! Bummer about the vibration but hopefully the shocks will make it disappear. I did find this illustration the other day on driveshaft angles. |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
There was a good article in the January 2013 issue of Car Craft regarding driveline vibrations. Look for Jeff Smith's Ask Anything column. In it, he suggests that most builders look at the driveshaft angle from the side view only, as in the diagram posted by jlsanborn. However, most rearend cases have some pinion offset side to side that should be taken into account. In other words, look at the angles from the top. For instance, if the pinion is offset a half inch to one side, the tranny tailshaft should be offset an equal amount the other way. Careful measurements using the frame as a reference should show whether this is an issue or not.
He also mentioned in the article that driveshaft length and diameter can have an effect. He gave a formula for calculating the rpm at which a harmonic can appear, but unfortunately, I've already passed that issue on to a buddy so I don't have it in front of me. I looked on carcraft.com but they haven't posted anything from the January issue yet. It should be out in a couple of weeks, I'd think. It was a good read, but the driveshaft formula seemed like a bit of a stretch. If it boils down to that, I'd be really surprised. For me, relocating the shocks made the biggest difference. |
Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Thanks, in all my research, that's one of the best illustrations I've seen. I started with #1, but perfectly straight is supposed to be bad, due to no rotation on the needle bearings. I shimmed to #2, no soap. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the pics!
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Re: Boppa's old yeller truck
Like the rake :metal:
I have that same little red seat cart! :lol: That vibration thing is proving to be a real bugger. Keep at it. You'll figure it out. Got faith in ya brother. Glad to see your back and you got things together. |
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