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"Very viable options if the remains werent deep in the hole." I'm in the same predicament. Hence my recommendation. |
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Chris unpacked all of the parts to the S Drive system while I finished up stripping the front of the block. With all of the old components clear we were able to start mounting the Eddie Motorsports system. The firs step was to bolt water pump spacers to the block. I finger tightened all of the bolts but one, and said a few more curse words at the bolt hole from hell that I would need to address later.
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The spacers were followed by a polished high flow Edelbrock water pump. With the pump mounted spacers were added to create stands for the main support brackets.
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Next the main support bracket was added. This will support of of the accessories. With the support bracket in place we were able to begin adding components in their proper position. The power steering pump used is a late model GM pump.
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That's gonna be nice!
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Moving up to the alternator, I noted the manufacturers tag as I installed it. The kit comes with a Powermaster 170 amp alternator to provide adequate amperage to the system.
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Running a bit behind on my updates, so lets add a couple more. With the drivers side in good shape, I moved to the passenger side. The A/C compressor was set in place. With the compressor in place I started adding the studs for the fan spacer. I'm not sure what combination will eventually end up here. I do plan to run a clutch fan.
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This system requires a reverse rotation fan and clutch so I will make adjustments once I make these purchases. Until then I plan to use parts from the old system so I can finish mocking it up. Don't worry, EVERYTHING will be new.
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Moving down now, I installed the crank pulley. After that the belt tensioner was bolted on as well.
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That looks nice.
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Cool!!
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While waiting for the line kit to come in from Eddie Motorsports I ordered the replacement radiator. I really hated that I had destroyed a very clean copper and brass unit. I researched trying to have mine rebuilt, and that is no longer a viable option. The cost of copper cores has become so expensive that I could buy three with an aluminum core.
All of the LS swap experts recommend using the Spectra Premium CU730 which is the replacement for the OEM big block equipped trucks. I'm told these cool better than the factory 4 row copper cores. Unfortunately Summit used UPS as the carrier on this shipment. I received my parts yesterday, and the box was damaged. The radiator wasnt hurt too bad, but I am having it replaced. |
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Cold Case makes a nice aluminum radiator with aluminum tanks.
Maybe they would be interested in sponsoring your build. https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/ch...m-radiator-at/ Or Jegs,... https://www.jegs.com/i/Cold-Case-Rad...T556A/10002/-1 |
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Friday night I worked on Jake for a while. Take a look here for updates "Crewcab Jake"
I spent some time through the week sanding the layers of primer off of the old bed that came with Jake. I wanted to get a true picture of what was under the multiple layers of paint before selling it. Friday night I got one side finished so I moved back over to Elwood. I'm waiting on parts from several vendors, so I pulled the grill and headlamp doors off. That gave me access to remove stock evaporator core and related lines. With that area exposed I can get a clear picture of where to install the Restomod Air evaporator and drier. |
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While waiting for a power steering line kit from Eddie Motorsports, I unpacked the latest shipment from RestoMod Air.
Since my A/C conversion started as a design project, I didnt begin with a true "kit". The inside components of the system are installed and documented here- Link Now its time to put the pieces in place under the hood. Heres my latest shipment- |
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I worked on centering the condenser and modifying the universal brackets that came with the kit. I used rubber bushing to float the mounting bolts. Once everything was mounted, I felt compelled to clean up the look of the universal fit bracket.
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I have been trying to map out the cleanest routing of the A/C lines on my RestoMod Air install. I spoke with Gary this week and he gave me some insight that will help with a cleaner install. I'll get back on that this evening.
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Last week I got the replacement radiator from Summit. This time it came through unscathed so I set it in place. I bought the Spectra Premium CU730 which is the replacement for the OEM big block equipped trucks. Its a full factory 4 row core thats much bigger than the shorter small block unit it replaced. My research shows that it cools as good as, if not better than the copper care units. I'm skeptical, but the guys that do this for a living swear by them.
This radiator requires changes be made to the radiator filler panel. You will need a GM Spectre Performance Radiator Support Panel #4366 as well as the correct support bushings. I used Prothane Radiator Support Bushings 7-1712-BL |
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This is where you will need to make some decisions. I did not want to run electric fans. There are many pros and cons that can be debated on this topic. My personal preference on THIS application was to maintain a clutch fan.
To do that and keep the factory small block fan shroud, I would need a to make a filler panel to take up the space above the fan shroud. After a bit of debating on my options I determimined that anything I added to the factory style panel would not meet my expectations. I decided to design something more to my liking instead. I called Mike Losh at Slosh Tubz and discussed my ideas. He said "make a template and i will build it". So I set about designing a filler piece that functional and fashionable at the same time. |
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Lookin' good Ken!!! Did you get the broken bolt situation rectified?
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I'm thinking that was a great course of action...gives some time to calm down & explore the possibilities
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With the move to the flat upper radiator support for the taller radiator, why not the fan shroud for the taller opening? |
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I was astounded at the cost to recore a copper tank. I can buy three new ones for the same price. I want a big fan of the plastic and aluminum radiators, but thats all they are using in new cars and trucks for the last decade (or more) so I my as well get in this new millennium before its over. |
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Caution, the diesel shroud is different, it's another 5" wider or so...a fairly asymmetrical beast of a shroud. Ever notice the other set of bolt holes on the top driver side of the core support past the ones that your (new) flat radiator support bolts to? Those are for the driver's side radiator hold down, it has separate metal hold downs with a plastic filler that spans them, the shroud bolts to the plastic filler on top. |
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I guess I'll have to research all of the options when I start under the hood of Jake. Till then I am going with my custom set up on Elwood. |
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Chris and I have been diligently working inside the cab, but heres where I'm at under the hood. I received my cover panel from Slosh Tubz last week. mike was extreemly quick at turning my idea in to a reality and shipping the part back to me.
He revised my bead roll design and included a place to add a Slosh Tubz billet badge. |
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The panel Mike made fit the look I was after perfectly. I could not bring myself to install the factory panel with all of the ribs pressed in. This piece will blend in nicely when painted, and the bead roll matches the pulleys and my wheels.
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Wow...major difference!!!
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The panel came out very nice. Provides a clean look to the area.
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The radiator panel looks nice! Are you going to incorporate the top support cushions somhow?
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Very nice progress Ken! Looks great!
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I dropped the radiator panel off to be painted, so I moved inside the cab. I wanted to get the interior wrapped up so I could focus my attention under the hood when my parts are painted.
I received a huge shipment from Brothers Truck Parts last week. It included a new dash pad, and a complete set of vents assemblies. |
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