Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

If you also installed power steering, the turning radius needs to be adjusted/equalized due to the thickness of the steering box adapter plate. This is typically done at the same time as an alignment.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Ok, thanks for the info. I own a custom upholstery shop so I'm a wiz inside the truck. Its everything else that confuses me. :lol:

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I had that problem. Had to cut 1" off the left tie rod to get it right. Basically line up the pitman arm with the box and adjust your toe from there. To get it close you can use a tape measure on the front and back of the wheels. Just use the same tire groove in the front and back. This will at least let you get it to the alignment shop.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I would think the steering linkage would be close to begin with. I doubt the linkage was off by that much from the donor.
The way I thought to solve it was to get your wheels pointing straight, then remove the pitman arm from the steering box, then turn the steering wheel one way until the power steering box hits stop, then turn the steering wheel the other way - counting the rotations - until it hits stop, then turn it again back the other way - counting the rotations - half the total rotations stop to stop, then reinstall the pitman arm to the steering box. Now you'll have the same turning radius both directions. That's how I thought it was to be done.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Hi fellas,

I'm about to do a 73-87 (1991 Suburban junkyard front end; 88-91 Suburban = 73-87 pickup front suspension) front crossmember swap on my 62 GMC big block V6.

The 60-62 ball bearing wheel bearings may as well be obsolete as the only available replacements are inferior quality and will burn up frequently, ball joints are OBSCENELY EXPENSIVE & getting scarce (& mine are worn out), and I got a nice set of 5 lug American Racing Torque Thrust D wheels and had my rear axles welded up, machined smooth, and re-drilled for 5 lug. So a 5 lug front with readily available parts, disc brakes, and a sway bar is a welcome upgrade without a doubt.


Here is some great info for this conversion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...54#post4432154

and specific swap photos/info for a 60-62:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366850





I also wanted to point out for those looking for a 6 lug rear disc setup, modern Dana 44's on Isuzu Rodeo's (also rebadged as Honda Passport?) from 1993 or 1994+ or maybe it was 1998, are 6 lug on 5.5" and these can be swapped onto our rear ends with a little modifying of axle register or rotor hole, and bolt pattern adjustment to backing plates, and actually the whole rear can be swapped and is a slight bit narrower than the GM corporate rear ends from later models, so this is a welcome thing for the early model 60-66 trucks that use a narrower width rear. IF someone has a rear end needing replaced. Of course suspension mounting points would need to be fabbed/modded. Then you can do the front end swap and use 6 lug aftermarket rotors if needed.






I also would like to point you towards a GMC truck Dana 44 rear end disc brake conversion thread that I started, and compiled a ton of info on, for late model Dana 44 rear brake setups with integral rotor hat drum parking brakes, vs the now getting scarce old Cadillac Eldorado/Seville Riviera Toronado & WS6 Trans Am rear disc calipers with the mechanical worm gear parking brake actuator assembly built into the hydraulic piston. These have been very popular for swaps, but are getting scarce and with expensive core charges, but using some big ford 9" application brackets for these calipers, can be bolted directly to the Dana 44 GMC rears.

https://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?p=71172

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

For a 1963 C20, is it possible to just use the parts from a 1987 3/4 ton, rather than swapping out the entire front end?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I think that was the wrong link, it referenced this thread.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

The unknown is whether the '71+ C20 disc brake lower ball joint will press into the '63-'66 C20 lower control arm. I have one person that told me that he did it, but I have not confirmed this myself.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

It was just a single post that referenced the answer to your question.

A complete x-member swap is not required. One can swap over the disc brake required parts to a drum brake truck for the upgrade on both 1/2 ton or their heavier duty 3/4 & 1-ton counterparts. Required parts would be new replacement wearable pieces (BJ's, TRE's) as well as possibly needing the later a-arms & other possible items vs. just swapping BJ's to the existing arms.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I didn't think swapping out the front crossmember was a complex task at all. Now all my front end parts are all 1979.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

So, here’s my understanding so far.

If I want to keep my C20 ¾ ton truck 8-lug, and NOT install a complete crossmember, I can use the parts from a 7-87 C20.
This would include:
• Lower ball joints (not sure if they will press into 63 LCA)
• Spindles
• Tie rods
• Rotors
• Calipers
• LCA from the 73-87 cannot be used on the 63
• Upper ball joints from a 63 are ok to use

However, if I buy after-market spindles (not sure if this is a kit?) then I do not need to change the ball joints or the tie rods. I can use what is standard on the 63. If this is the case, I would probably need to buy the after-market rotors and calipers that fit these after-market spindles.
This is my interpretation of the info from the FAQ:
"Drum to Disc" conversions 63-66*
________________________________________
DRUM TO DISC CONVERSIONS 63-66

63-66 truck with:
63-66 Crossmember Installed:
1) There are many advantage to leaving your 63-66 crossmember in place to add disc brakes.

2) 63-66 truck owners can now purchase "year specific" standard and drop spindles, from many aftermarket suspension vendors.
* No need to change ball joints.
* No need to change tie rod ends.
* These new "conversion disc brake spindles" are a true "bolt-on" mod to add disc brakes to your truck.

3) The 63-66 a-arms can also be used with any other spindle (71-72 or 73-87) with a simple ball joint change.
* The upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rods must match the correct year of spindle you choose.

4) You will need a "conversion" rubber brake hose to connect your disc brake caliper to your existing steel brake line.

5) Keeping your original 63-66 crossmember allows to to leave the engine and transmission in place.
* No need to remove drivetrain.
* No need to temporarily support the engine, while removing the crossmember.
* Complete disassembly of the front suspension also allows you the ability to clean, inspect, replace or rebuild all the individual components.


Links:
*http://www.classicperform.com/discdrop.htm
*http://www.earlyclassic.com/Tech.asp...20That%20Truck
*http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...all/index.html

*********************************************************
*********************************************************

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Today I contacted the forum member that said that he used the disc brake lower ball joint in a '63-'66 C20 lower control arm and he verified that it did indeed press into the LCA. He is someone that I trust with accurate info.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Did he say what part number? Was it part of a kit?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

He is going to get back to me on the part number of the lower ball joint. No he did not buy a kit. There is no need for that when you can simply buy all the parts at your local auto parts store except for the spindles. As far as I know it is just a '73-'87 C20 lower ball joint........they are all the same.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Where do you get the spindles? Wrecking yard?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

It will probably be fairly easy to get them from a junkyard type place. Maybe you'll get lucky and get some with good calipers and rotors

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

When you get the spindle assemblies, get the Center-Link/Drag-Link in case you need it.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Whether you find the donor truck in a wrecking yard or from a private party, that is the easiest, simplest and most cost effective way to upgrade to power steering and brakes. There is no need to make it more difficult than it is. Unless you just have to have that $$$ aftermarket conversion kit.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Curious abut the bracket for the power steering pump - is there one available for the 292?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Look here:

https://davisspeedequipment.com/prod...y/1975-89-292/

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

That link to Davis speed was posted a couple weeks ago in your own thread you started

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

The truck shop has these spindles for a C20, $279.
That’s not too expensive, right?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I also noticed they have conversion spindles, but only for C10.

A C20 rotor will not fit on a C10 spindle?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Those stock height spindles are the same as ones you can find from a junkyard truck. You can probably get junkyard spindles for $50-$100 depending on what all you purchase along with. IMO, there's no need to buy new, stock height spindles. If the bearing surface of the spindle looks good and clean, it will last a long time as long as you keep the bearings nice and greasy

No, a c20 rotor will not fit on a c10 spindle

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I’m starting to re-think this, maybe I should convert my rear end to 5 lug (it is currently a 1983 C20 14 bolt 8 lug). Then change the front to the spindles for 5 lug.
This would be easily, right?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

It's just as easy as leaving it 8-lug. It all depends on what you ultimately want and/or need.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

It doesn’t matter to me, in the end, if the truck was 5 lug or 8 lug. It just seems that there are so many more parts available for the 5 lug setups. Such as wheels, etc.

The goal is to have disc brakes and power steering.
Really trying to find the least expensive and simplest way to do a disc brake conversion and power steering upgrade. Want to look at the big picture rather than just one aspect of the goal.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Definitely more choices for 5-lug setups if you don't need the heavier-duty capability of a 3/4 ton truck.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

I am estimating to convert my 63 C20 to FRONT disc brakes, it would cost about $550, if I purchased new spindles.
$300 Spindles (NEW from the truck shop)
$100 Rotors (NEW Rock Auto)
$60 Calipers (NEW Rock Auto)
$25 Brake Pads (NEW Rock Auto)
$50 Misc tie rods, ball joints

I guess I may as well keep it all 8-lug, since it would probably cost a lot more to convert to the 5 lug. And, i could keep the rear setup as drums for a while.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

An 8-lug disc swap should be fairly easy to do from a wrecking yard donor or other used sources. That being said, sometimes time is money & new stuff can ultimately get you to the goal-line faster.

I usually try the used/dismantlers as my first option if it's an upgrade requiring 'supporting' pieces (clips, backing plates, hardware) that you usually can't get with 'new' aftermarket parts.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

To change the rear to 5 lug you will either have to find a different rear end and change that AGAIN, or spend about $400-500 on a set of custom axles for your 9.5" 14 bolt.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Regarding the PS gear, I was considering one from Rock Auto, like this one. It is 3 to 3-1/4 turns. Would this be ok to use? Special idler arm required? My front cross member is from a 1974 C20, so I am planning on ordering tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm and steering gear from a 1974 pickup.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=908&jsn=908

Regarding the PS pump - there seems to be pumps that had a reservoir and others that did not. Can anyone elaborate on the pros/cons of both?
Also, that PS bracket for the 292 seems to have a lot of different configurations; the website from Davis Speed Equipment shows different water pump options from 75-89. Can I run a different waterpump on my 292? Is that the only advanctage/requirement, capability of runnig the PS pump?

And, do I need a PS control valve?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

What is the application for that steering box? In 1980 the fitting style changed from SAE to Metric with an o-ring. If you want to use the entire '74 steering linkage, you must locate, drill holes and bolt up the '74 C20 idler arm. I do not have a template for the C20 idler arm, only the C10 idler arm. Just get ps pump with an integral reservoir. Does Davis Speed Equip not have the PS pump brackets for the early 292 like you have?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

That PS pump that I pasted is for a 74 C20, with a 292.
I don’t think Davis has what I need - I just want the stock PS pump bracket. They have some strange configurations and it looks like I would have to change my water pump.

I have the front frame section that the C20 front clip came from, so I should be able to make a template for the idler arm.

I’m just trying to confirm, if I buy all the PS pump, gear and hoses for a 74 C20, it will work. Is this a pretty safe conclusion?

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

So, if I am correct, it seems this bracket from Davis will work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10004-PS-PO....m46890.l49292

Saw this on eBay, seems like the best option.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

What's everyone using on 62 c10s.
I'm looking to upgrade mine an not sure to go dropped spindle an disc brakes or go with a swap.
Keeping original 6cyl.
An wanting to lower it all around. Keeping it all 6 lug.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

If you want it lower & want to upgrade to disc brakes, drop spindles are a good choice. Drop from the raised spindle pin height doesn't negatively impact spring travel & they're disc brake ready. Just search for a 'kit' for your model & go from there.

Check out the disc brake conversion posts in the FAQ --> Suspension section of the web site.

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

Does anyone know the tolerance for C20 brake rotor thickness? One of my rotors is gouged.
Hope I don’t have to buy new rotors - these are expensive!

Re: Disc Brake Upgrade Reference Thread
 

For your reading enjoyment...

Is a Master Cylinder Change Required in Drum to Disk Conversion?
We have been asked a number of times if there is such a thing as a manual disk brake conversion kit? The simple answer is yes. The power booster component almost exclusively affects how your brake pedal "feels" to you under foot.

In a situation where your classic car has multiple drivers, some of whom are used to the "foot feel" of power brakes - maybe they spend most of their time driving a newer car or light truck - a power-assisted brake pedal can makes it easier to go between vehicles. The power booster allows you to maintain relative consistency with how much pressure to apply when stopping either of the two vehicles.

You DO NOT NEED to upgrade or convert to a power assisted apply system, however, when making the upgrade to disc from drum brakes. Recently, we got an email from a customer planning on making that drum to disc brake conversion but interested in sticking with a manual set-up.

"Dave" has a '66 GTO he uses as a daily driver and wanted the enhanced performance and stopping ability of disc brakes. But as the sole driver of the car, Dave was comfortable with the pedal effort the manual brakes currently required and wanted to keep that same level of brake feel.

His question centered around the fact that he had bought a master cylinder approximately five years ago in an effort to make the car safer by getting rid of the single bowl master cylinder. At that point, he was only concerned with that safety factor of the master cylinder. Things change and now he is interested in converting over the last step of safer brakes and going with a disc brake conversion kit. We were able to go back and look at his previous purchases and did find out that we had in fact sold him the proper master cylinder that will allow him to keep the same master cylinder while doing the disc brake conversion.

Let's assume for a minute though that we didn't have access to Dave's previous purchase. How can you tell if your master is appropriately sized to operate a new (disc brake) system? The bore size is critical when selecting a master cylinder for use in either a power or manual apply brake system. The wrong size master cylinder added to a power assist set-up could actually provide for a pedal feel that is even harder than what a well working manual system would ever provide. Measuring a master cylinder bore size is actually quite easy for most folks. A quality ruler is generally all that is needed. After pulling the master cylinder forward on the studs, measure the inside of the bore on the back of the master cylinder. In general - the smaller the bore size, the more line pressure you will have in the system at a particular pedal effort. Conversely, larger bore size gives less movement of calipers for the same foot pressure and therefore almost always translates into what most would consider a hard pedal.

Here comes a pitch for calling in an expert to ask the question. With your measurement in hand, call us at 1-800-382-9772 and ask the question: “will this be appropriately sized for my vehicle?” We're here to help you appropriately size brake components.

https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/master...isk-conversion