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-   -   Markeb01 Build Thread (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444502)

markeb01 02-11-2013 01:25 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Thanks for all the feedback and comments. The videos I’ve posted so far are full of flaws, but they do a pretty good job of conveying what it’s like being in the truck. There are no rattles or squeaks, its quiet enough for normal conversation. However when pushed, the power train makes so much mechanical music there’s no need for a radio.

The whole build concept centered around being easy to fix and having fun. I can’t afford to make it really fast or pay for breakage, and it isn’t geared for freeway speeds or long distance travel either. But it’s hard not to smile every time I climb in and pull out of the garage.
:)

McMurphy 02-11-2013 03:04 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 5881009)
But it’s hard not to smile every time I climb in and pull out of the garage.
:)

I think you nailed it right there brother !!

markeb01 02-15-2013 11:14 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Yesterday I had a puncture in my left rear tire repaired, and now have all the snow tires off and the 5 spokes and street tires reinstalled on the truck. And once again I learned something new.

I started manually breaking down and mounting tires and rims when I was about 13 years old and I’ve patched many punctures over the years. I’ve used glue patches and the kind that are set on fire to fuse them to the tire. I still own a bead breaker and several tire irons, but only use them now to mount new wheels on new tires as it is easy to do without marking the rims.

I don’t know when the tire plug was invented, but my first experience with them was back in the 70’s or 80’s when I had a nearly new tire ruined by a local shop that did a very poor repair from outside the tire with one. After that I never allowed a flat to be repaired with a plug.

So yesterday I dropped off the flat at a top notch repair shop I’m very familiar with and spoke directly with the owner about how I wanted it fixed. Imagine my surprise and delight (?!) when I got home and found a plug in the tire! It didn’t make any sense because the tire had obviously been dismounted and rebalanced. But to my self-serving credit, rather than getting mad I thought perhaps it was time to see if technology had changed or improved since I started repairing tires 50 something years ago.

Sure enough, current Tire Industry Association standards require a “system” to repair tires that mandates removing the tire from the rim, inspection of the tire, and installation of a “plug patch”, which includes resealing the inside of the tire after the patch is installed. Here’s a typical example. The colored part is a protective covering that is removed to make contact with the glue:

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/3967/patchplug.jpg

This is a very nice improvement over the old patch or plug choice, as the new techniques prevent water from intruding through the tread while the patch seals the inside of the tire. There are several YouTube videos explaining the process and merits of the new repair methods. This may be common knowledge to most guys, but it was new to me so I thought I’d share it.

And best of all, I wasn’t even charged for the repair!

markeb01 02-24-2013 08:36 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
I’ve been thinking about adding courtesy lights to our truck ever since I added the MIP floor mat. The plan was to fab up a couple of simple brackets, snap in some left over bulb sockets, and wire them into the door switches. Scrounging through my electrical stuff I was surprised to discover I don’t have any surplus bulb sockets.

Looking through the sockets available at Napa I realized it was going to cost almost $10 just for a pair of generic sockets, plus the cost of the bulbs. For that much I thought it might be worth investing in a courtesy light kit.

When I bought my full kit over 20 years ago Ron Francis wiring systems were in a class all their own, with the printed fireproof wire, etc. Today most of the kits on the market offer most if not all the features that were at one time unique to RF. So I started with the RF website and discovered they want $45.95 for a kit which consists of a couple of sockets, some wire, and a few connectors. It doesn't include the jamb switches.

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/6150/ex7lg.jpg

On the same page in their catalog, I also happened to notice their door jamb switches are priced at $13.95 each. A couple of years ago I bought the same switches at my local auto parts store for $1.95. And these variances seem typical of the Ron Francis pricing structure on other accessories.

Thinking $50+ with shipping was a ridiculous amount of money to spend for simply adding lights to my floor, I shopped around and found a similar Painless kit (30702). Through Amazon it sells for $32.01 and offers free shipping. I placed the order today and look forward to getting them installed:

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8...nless30702.jpg

One thing this has demonstrated to me is that if I were to do another complete rewire I would no longer consider or recommend a Ron Francis kit. This greatly disappoints me as I have always been a champion of the Ron Francis product line. I still prefer the front loading design of their fuse panel over any other brand, but I would feel the fool if I paid their prices when other quality and far more affordable solutions are now readily available.

66-PMD-GMC 02-25-2013 11:00 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
I hit a wrecking yard and took the under-dash lighting (courtesy lighting) out of a Lincoln.
Wiring, sockets, lenses and various brackets etc. were $10. ;)
Before I adapted the Lincoln stuff, the only way the dome light turned on was if I switched it on. No door switches came in my truck. :)
I can now see what is in the truck at night... kinda nice.
:5150:

piratexpress1369a 02-25-2013 12:20 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
3 Attachment(s)
that will be cool when you get them in ..i will be adding LED lights to the inside of my truck..i did this to my grand cherokee what a difference it makes..they are a square with 24 led diodes in them ..plug and play set up

markeb01 02-25-2013 06:23 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
That is indeed an impressive amount of light.

I never really cared that much about how well the interior lit up at night, until I mentioned the LMC clear dome lens to my wife. She thought it would be a great improvement because with an all black interior it's very hard to find anything in it at night. I added the LMC dome light lens and was blown away at how much more light it put out with just the stock bulb.

The first car I ever saw as a kid with courtesy lights on the floor was my uncle's brand new 1962 Rambler. It also had clear vinyl floor mats which were a brand new item at the time and the car just glistened when the door was opened. It left a lasting impression.

Although his carpet was light and my mat is gloss black, I'm thinking it will still add that sparkling look at night. And in case I'm ever on a date and feel like hanging out in the truck on a warm summer night with the doors open, and still want some privacy, I previously installed a switch in the circuit so I can easily disable the dome circuit and leave the doors open.

markeb01 02-25-2013 06:26 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC (Post 5911357)
I hit a wrecking yard and took the under-dash lighting (courtesy lighting) out of a Lincoln.
Wiring, sockets, lenses and various brackets etc. were $10. ;)
Before I adapted the Lincoln stuff, the only way the dome light turned on was if I switched it on. No door switches came in my truck. :)
I can now see what is in the truck at night... kinda nice.
:5150:

I'm curious where you mounted your bulbs/sockets. Are they at the ends of the dashboard, or somewhere closer together?

66-PMD-GMC 02-25-2013 07:05 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 5912242)
I'm curious where you mounted your bulbs/sockets. Are they at the ends of the dashboard, or somewhere closer together?

I have 1 mounted at the each end of the dash and 2 under the center of the dash.
When I get my interior sorted out I will be putting the door panel lens and lights in the seat supports facing the door.
What I would like to figure out is how to make the interior lights stay on for a short time after I park the truck.
All of them are connected to the dome light.
:5150:

markeb01 02-25-2013 11:38 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC (Post 5912348)

What I would like to figure out is how to make the interior lights stay on for a short time after I park the truck.

:5150:

Here’s one outfit that offers a solution. There are probably others, this just happened to be the first one I found:

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2933/13001amed.jpg

http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Dome_Light.html

Ta2Don 02-26-2013 07:43 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Saw your post about cleaning out garage and next project... Hmmmm! Wondering what's next...

markeb01 02-28-2013 11:56 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
I don’t have any big projects planned in the near future, but after unexpectedly needing to replace the shop compressor, the rubber hoses at the fuel pump swelled up and started leaking gas from all 4 fittings creating a nice gasoline pond in the garage! Everything in the system was new and I was furious at the thought of having to crawl under and deal with gasoline again, but the leakage created an urgent fire hazard.

My wife’s input chilled me out and I replaced the rubber hoses (and fittings that came with the pump) with 300 psi push lock hose and fittings. By the time I was done (with no more leaks) I was fed up and just left the garage in a shambles until I could deal with cleaning it up again.


Today was finally time to make a few more changes. Sadly I had to give up the Hurst shift handle (again). Arthritis in my hands has recently increased making it painful to shift into 2nd and 4th with the short stick and knob angle. So the medium length straight aluminum handle went back in after the best buffer polishing I’ve ever given it. The straight stick and extra leverage makes shifting easy because the motion is straight back and forth, rather than needing to pull on the knob.

Since standard 1 7/8 inch shifter balls look stupid on a stick that long, I pulled the metalflake ball out of the gauge panel and it went back on the stick. The LED lighting system for the metalflake ball (in the gauge panel) was eliminated and the black Hurst 4 speed knob was mounted in the gauge panel so my wife still has a pattern available to find reverse.

Next up I inverted the video camera mounting, lowering the camera to where it shows more of the dash, while making the camera itself nearly invisible from outside the truck. As soon as we have some clear weather I’m anxious to get some more video posted.

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/2096/003camera.jpg

And lastly, this afternoon the Painless Wiring courtesy light kit arrived and was installed in about 2 hours. The easiest way to route the wiring was done by pulling the glove box along with the steering wheel and instrument panel. It was very straight forward. Here’s what the cab looks like with the courtesy lights illuminated. The photos make the lights look much brighter than they seem in real life, but I also have the LMC clear dome light lens mounted up top and it puts out a great deal more light than the stock version.

The left light is mounted to the right of the ignition switch, and the right one is mounted just left of the glove box door.

http://imageshack.us/a/img819/7531/001ewp.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img254/5932/002gst.jpg

I thought about mounting them on the ends of the dash, but most of the stuff we look for in the dark is near the transmission tunnel more than the doors. Overall I’m very happy with the kit and I think the lights will prove to be a nice addition.

Ta2Don 03-01-2013 12:17 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Watching your build is keeping me motivated, can't wait to get back to work on mine, Soon!

piratexpress1369a 03-01-2013 12:05 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
that worked out well ..so the left only works when the door opens?or both sides

markeb01 03-01-2013 02:25 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
All three lights come on when either door is opened, or when the light switch knob is turned. All three are tied in to the same circuit. In the pictures above both under dash lights are on, they just show more light toward the center and less light near the doors. It looks more uniform and not as bright in real life, but these shots were the best I could capture.

markeb01 03-03-2013 12:27 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Tonight I reversed the mounting of the video camera back to where I had it originally. The lower position blocked too much of the view and for no reason I can figure the camera tended to porpoise, making the resulting video rather nauseating. It’s back to this configuration again:

http://imageshack.us/a/img706/2605/002mbt.jpg

After that I spent about an hour trying to find the source of a rattle in the dash. It turned out to be the new Autometer fuel pressure gauge. The glass is totally loose between the bezel and the gauge housing, and vibrates loudly at just the right frequency. I’m going to try fixing it with the careful application of some white glue or clear epoxy between the bezel and lens. It’s no wonder America has such a poor reputation for producing quality products. I have to fix almost every new thing I buy.

Grizz1963 03-03-2013 04:07 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 5923652)
Tonight I reversed the mounting of the video camera back to where I had it originally. The lower position blocked too much of the view and for no reason I can figure the camera tended to porpoise, making the resulting video rather nauseating. It’s back to this configuration again:

http://imageshack.us/a/img706/2605/002mbt.jpg

After that I spent about an hour trying to find the source of a rattle in the dash. It turned out to be the new Autometer fuel pressure gauge. The glass is totally loose between the bezel and the gauge housing, and vibrates loudly at just the right frequency. I’m going to try fixing it with the careful application of some white glue or clear epoxy between the bezel and lens. It’s no wonder America has such a poor reputation for producing quality products. I have to fix almost every new thing I buy.

This really is a sad state of affairs.

I get really angry when I have to spend time correcting stuff I buy, even if it is an item from Poundland (everything is pound, or multiples for a pound, like 3 Pepsi's for £1)

Basically bad workmanship and production equates to stealing, because you are offered an item that is fit for purpose, only to find it has to be modified, fixed or returned, at inconvenience and cost to you.

markeb01 03-17-2013 09:54 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Started and finished another tiny project today. I got tired of the stainless steel bolts attaching the rear splash pans to the rear bumper brackets:

http://imageshack.us/a/img545/5522/02lhtop02.jpg

They appear as quality stainless bolts steel and haven’t rusted, but draw the eye right to them and really seem out of place.

Although a very simple project, it took longer than expected because I don’t have the factory stamped bumper brackets. Mine are aftermarket brackets that had no provision for attaching the splash pans. Years ago I just cut up some steel angle, drilled a few holes, and bolted everything together:

http://imageshack.us/a/img814/896/03lhbtm.jpg

The end result looked functional, but not very well thought out. I scrounged through the hardware drawer and came up with enough carriage bolts to do the job:

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/4091/001hnx.jpg

They were chucked in a drill and the heads ground smooth with a D/A sander:

http://imageshack.us/a/img823/641/002xdz.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img856/7594/003jwx.jpg

The long ones were cut to length:

http://imageshack.us/a/img13/1860/004xbh.jpg

After a swipe with wax and grease remover they were sprayed with etch primer:

http://imageshack.us/a/img839/7112/005du.jpg

I sprayed outside during a rain/wind storm (out of the rain) and then cooked the bolts under heat lamps to set the paint. The final finish was two coats of Rustoleum Black Lacquer. I wanted to use something that would dry fast since the weather conditions were so lousy.

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/8379/008agt.jpg

I bought it a while ago and had never tried it. It worked perfectly, dried quickly with no runs or dry spots, and appears to be the same color black as the powder coat on the pans.

The splash pan was stamped with elongated inner holes for adjustment, but none were squared up for carriage bolts. All four brackets were removed so the pan holes could be squared up. This allowed marking the brackets for matching modifications. By the time the brackets were done and refitted the bolts were dry and everything was reassembled.

Here’s the finished result. Now the splash pan bolts match the pair holding the license plate bracket to the bumper. As the bed cover shows the truck is really dirty and needs a bath:

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/6403/006awz.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img515/8426/007lvr.jpg

Not much of a project but it gave me an excuse to spend the afternoon having fun and making a minor improvement.

CRGRS 66 03-17-2013 10:07 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Isn't it all about the little things, I look forward to the day when I have little things to putter with, nice work Mark.

markeb01 03-25-2013 12:28 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
In the never ending quest to make minor improvements, the outside mirrors have been receiving a lot of attention recently. Since the mirrors came first, I don’t have any photos of how the truck might look with spotlights and no truck mirrors. So I played around and digitally removed the passenger side mirror:

Here it remains in place:

http://imageshack.us/a/img89/1299/19687980.jpg

And here it’s been removed:

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/1184/48704314.jpg

I like the looks of the truck so much better without the distraction of the truck mirror I decided they had to go. Twin 58 Impala door mirrors were ordered yesterday:

http://imageshack.us/a/img163/8706/25448212.jpg

I think the slanted arms and bullet tips will tie in with the bed rails & mounts, and the mirror heads are very similar to shape of the spotlight shells. I figure they’ll look exceedingly cool, or shockingly stupid. Either way they’ll be uniquely different than regular truck, or ubiquitous peep mirrors.

So today I removed the passenger side mirror as it isn’t required for driving, and is the harder of the two to eliminate. Here’s the before shot:

http://imageshack.us/a/img832/3615/63954860.jpg

And here’s a similar shot after the holes were filled using JB Weld and coins from the inside:

http://imageshack.us/a/img402/4015/63602874.jpg

The access hole in the inner door panel is not very user friendly for a person on blood thinners, so I’m thankful I’ll never have to stick my arms in there again. With company arriving tomorrow it will probably be a few days before I block out the repair and reshoot the paint.

We’re supposed to have a bit warmer weather in a week or so. I’m looking forward to getting the new mirrors mounted, giving the truck a long needed bath, and searching for some new place to take photos.

Bomp 03-25-2013 12:42 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Dig those mirrors.
Posted via Mobile Device

likaroc13 03-25-2013 12:50 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
lookin' good Mark...those Impala mirrors should look nice! on those mirrors you're removing, are they the same for a '66? if so, what plans do you have for them afterward?

markeb01 03-25-2013 01:58 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
No plans, they're never going back on the truck. And yes 60-66 mirrors are all the same, but the mounting angle on the door changed in 64. On the 60-63 the bottom is parallel with the body line in the door. On the 64-66 the bottom of the mount is angled slightly uphill toward the front. Never have figured out why GM changed the positioning.

If you want them they're yours for the cost of shipping. I think a flat rate box is about 10 bucks. Just shoot me a PM with your address. If you want to see up close photos take a look at post 105 on page 5 of my build thread.

Ta2Don 03-25-2013 08:32 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Bomp (Post 5969209)
Dig those mirrors.
Posted via Mobile Device

Ditto, another one of those small details that make your build fun to keep track of, Have a Great Spring!!!
:mm:

Grizz1963 03-25-2013 08:42 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Couple of things.

Love the mirrors, they remind me of the ones that were on Nicola's Anglia 100E, much sexier, but similar.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/inde...y&thread=60718

And your truck is one of few Stepsides I would actually aspire to own, or copy. (You know I am fairly set on a Fleetside as that is what Nicola ordered, ohh and without a gun rack ;) )

Your trucks constant evolution gives me many reasons to want my truck yesterday already.

Thanks for all the updates.

markeb01 03-27-2013 10:58 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Ta2Don (Post 5969437)
Ditto, another one of those small details that make your build fun to keep track of, Have a Great Spring!!!
:mm:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grizz1963 (Post 5969444)
Couple of things.

Love the mirrors, they remind me of the ones that were on Nicola's Anglia 100E, much sexier, but similar.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/inde...y&thread=60718

And your truck is one of few Stepsides I would actually aspire to own, or copy. (You know I am fairly set on a Fleetside as that is what Nicola ordered, ohh and without a gun rack ;) )

Your trucks constant evolution gives me many reasons to want my truck yesterday already.

Thanks for all the updates.

Thanks for the comments guys, they are greatly appreciated.

Grizz, I really empathize with your wife’s pain over letting her car go, I would have had a hard time selling that myself. I just can’t imagine there are too many examples left of that specific model in anywhere near that condition. In early 1960’s California, there was a flood of those cute little “foreign” cars. The Beetle was everywhere, but there was also a huge variety of other little cars that I thought were somewhat attractive. These are a few I would have had a hard time letting go of, had I ever been lucky enough to acquire one:

Volvo 444/544:

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/4779/v...4blackrtce.jpg

Austin A40

http://imageshack.us/a/img341/6452/austina40.jpg

Morris Minor:

http://imageshack.us/a/img802/5326/morrisminor.jpg

Simca Aronde:

http://imageshack.us/a/img836/7725/simcaaronde2.jpg

Hillman Minx:

http://imageshack.us/a/img24/7509/hillmanminx.jpg

And my dad bought a new Nash Metropolitan in 1958. It looked exactly like this one:

http://imageshack.us/a/img690/3153/nashmetropolitan.jpg

By 1961 he wore out the engine and swapped in an MGA engine/4 speed, with MGA bucket seats, traction masters, Sun Tach, and chrome window frames. It went well over 100 mph which was pretty scary on 13” cotton cord tires. It also broke axles almost every weekend, which was why it eventually went away.

So that’s the history of why I have a soft spot for so many of those little cute cars. They stand out in a crowd, draw attention everywhere they are seen, and fit into just about any parking spot or garage.


Meanwhile back to the truck progress - today I block sanded the JB Qwik on the passenger door and applied a skim coat of Rage filler. That was blocked out and is now waiting for a coat of 2K primer tomorrow.

http://imageshack.us/a/img827/4068/53827965.jpg

The driver side mirror was pulled and the holes prepped for filler. The driver side was much easier because there is no distortion in the door skin needing attention. This is due to the reinforcement/thread plate underneath. I scraped all the paint off the top of the plate, which is below the level of the door skin. Hit it with a wire brush and cleaned out the threads with a tap. After that 5/16x18x ¼” set screws were installed with Krazy Glue.

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/3853/dsc0005pj.jpg

Next the holes were filled with JB Kwik and worked until the material went off.

http://imageshack.us/a/img248/518/dsc0006ng.jpg

These holes will get roughed up and filled flush with Kwik before the Rage filler goes on. I’d like to have both sides done before mixing up the primer. Once everything is ready for paint I’ll have to decide whether to try spotting the areas with a spray can, or reshoot the whole section between the window and the body line with liquid paint and my SataJet. I may try the spray can first just to see if it can be done, so I’ll know whether it works or not for other potential nick and scratch repairs.

The mirrors are due to arrive on Saturday so I’d like to have all the paint work wrapped up by Friday.

More to follow.

piratexpress1369a 03-28-2013 08:40 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
where will you be mounting the new mirrors

Ta2Don 03-28-2013 10:28 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Thanks for the set screw way of preparing the mirror holes, will be doing this myself very soon. :uhmk: Keep up the Great work!

markeb01 03-28-2013 11:09 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a (Post 5976161)
where will you be mounting the new mirrors

I was trying to do a cut and paste to play with the mounting location, but I haven’t been able to find a mirror photo that works. I think I’ll just have to figure it out on Saturday when they arrive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ta2Don (Post 5976303)
Thanks for the set screw way of preparing the mirror holes, will be doing this myself very soon. :uhmk: Keep up the Great work!

The set screws were sure easier than the coin method since the back side doesn’t need to be roughed up for adhesion. And the hex in the set screw allows the JB Weld to fill in to yet another surface, locking everything permanently in place.

The JB Kwik was finished off last night. Leveling with JB keeps the filler as thin as primer so there are never any cracking or separation issues. The next step is a bit of sanding, a skim coat of Rage filler followed by 2K primer and final paint for both doors:

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/7041/95400719.jpg

Ta2Don 03-28-2013 11:41 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Very nice work Mark, I was stationed in the Azores back in the mid 80's and ended up owning a '54 Morris Minor, left hand drive, it was a ton of fun and my only regret is that I didn't have the foresight to bring it back to the states with me...

likaroc13 03-28-2013 02:04 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by markeb01 (Post 5975599)
And my dad bought a new Nash Metropolitan in 1958. It looked exactly like this one:

By 1961 he wore out the engine and swapped in an MGA engine/4 speed, with MGA bucket seats, traction masters, Sun Tach, and chrome window frames. It went well over 100 mph which was pretty scary on 13” cotton cord tires. It also broke axles almost every weekend, which was why it eventually went away.

So that’s the history of why I have a soft spot for so many of those little cute cars. They stand out in a crowd, draw attention everywhere they are seen, and fit into just about any parking spot or garage.

Hey Mark, my grandfather did a frame-off on his Metropolitan. It's a neat little car. My wife spoke up, & it's supposedly already willed to her. :lol: Here's a link to some pics I took while visiting about 3 or so years ago:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lika...lassics?page=1

Just wanted to share. :chevy:

Grizz1963 03-28-2013 06:23 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Mark, Don, these small cars are a ton of fun, very cheap and economical to run.

If we had space and use for all these toys, we would have kept Myrtle the Anglia, but at least knowing a 13 year old petrol head has it now, endure a neat future for it.

I love Nash Metroplitans.

markeb01 03-30-2013 10:38 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
The Rage filler was applied and worked last night. After completion I realized there was one tiny sink mark I hadn’t spotted, so I mixed up a miniscule amount of 2K primer on a paper plate and filled in the spot with a model car paint brush. Block sanding with 400 grit dry this morning eliminated the last blemish.

Taking a break for lunch FedEx showed up with the mirrors. Positioning was a bit challenging. First the bottom of the mounting bracket is not flat, being designed to fit atop a crowned surface. This required a position a bit lower on the door than I had originally planned. During initial mock up I intended the mirror head to be viewed through the main door window, but given the shape of the bracket the mounting location ended up in the middle of the door half way between the handle and the spotlight. It looked positively stupid. I didn’t think to take a picture with the mirror taped in place:

http://imageshack.us/a/img109/4623/35977338.jpg

The final location ended up in a more conventional location near the front, and the mirror is viewed through the vent window.

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/8159/92266065.jpg

Adjustability allows essentially the same view previously provided by the truck mirrors. One difference however is the passenger mirror is not viewable from the driver’s seat. It is only purposeful for whoever is in the passenger seat, but that’s it.

I drilled the holes for mounting and pulled the mirrors back off for paint. I went ahead a shot the repaired areas with a spray can just to see how it would turn out. It didn’t turn out 100%, but it’s close enough to make me happy and saved hours of masking that would have been needed to shoot with liquid paint. From 5 feet away it’s hard to detect anything has been done. All that was left was reinstalling the mirrors and spotlights:

http://imageshack.us/a/img543/9042/13706694.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/3157/30393607.jpg

Another nice feature of this design is a beautiful prism shape to the top of the base that I had never seen in pictures:

http://imageshack.us/a/img259/9047/76771645.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img69/5593/79980239.jpg

Here's one shot I took earlier this evening:

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/2439/36487012.jpg

Overall I’m very pleased with the upgrade. I’ll take some better outdoor photos sometime in the next few days.

CRGRS 66 03-31-2013 08:00 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
I really like it, looks great mark!!

piratexpress1369a 03-31-2013 10:49 AM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
look great ..to bad that you can not see from driver seat

Ta2Don 03-31-2013 12:06 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Awesome!!! Have a Blessed Easter!

likaroc13 03-31-2013 12:48 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Looks great all-around Mark! Definitely can't tell anything was done from the pics, & the mirrors are nice looking pieces as well. Nice work, as always. :bowtie:

Rich 5150 69 03-31-2013 01:45 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Looks great Mark, nice choice on the new mirrors...;)

Grizz1963 03-31-2013 04:47 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
As always Mark, a well thought out and executed modification.

Went to Wheels Day here on Friday an took some photos......

Here is a link to the photo-dump.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/inde...&thread=147998


I trust there will be some Brit-metal to please you.

In other news, I have confirmed the sale of my van today, cheque will be in the post this week etc.....

Now I can start looking for a truck.

Here is a truck for you...... ;)

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...s/P1040622.jpg

1963c-10 04-01-2013 01:45 PM

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 
Mirrors look great on there Mark.


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