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:m6::banghead: Okay, so this is what's been going on. I haven't got too much time to work the last couple of weeks but I've done a couple of things. I got the holes drilled in the frame for the trans mount and got it bolted down just fine. Now for the hair pulling and head banging part. Here's my experience with motor mounts so others my be spared my pain. I first ordered a couple of rubber mounts, old style with the single bolt through the old style perch and into the mount. One of them seemed fine but when I was testing the bolt to the thread before installing just to make sure it was okay, I found the threads were a little tight. I thought it might just be some paint of the threads so I proceeded to try and thread the bolt through. With barely any torque on my socket wrench, the threaded part of the mount broke away from the mount. Okay, I should have learned my lesson here, but not, I went to the local NAPA store and bought 2 of their mounts( at least I wasn't going to use the other so called good one of the other pair). The mounts appeared okay and I went ahead and installed the engine and trans, and got everything bolted down except a little snugging of the motor mount bolts. You may have guessed it, but yes, one of the new pair came apart in the same way and I was even more careful with tightening than I had before now that I was aware of a possible problem. So as I sit right now, I have ordered a pair of tubular perches and the later style mounts from CPP. I shouldn't have been a cheap A$$ and did this to start. I had considered it. While I'm waiting, I ordered and received my power steering adapter plate from Capt. Fab so I can get that hooked up. I need to pick up a new pitman arm first, though. |
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Wow, sounds like the mounts were pain in the butt. Given the power some of us put through these motors it's hard to believe they're held snug by one bolt on each side. Have a link to what you ordered? I see perches and weld-in mounts. They go together I take it?
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The engine and trans looks good sitting in the frame :thumbs:
I hope you took those motor mounts back and got a refund. I've never been too crazy about this style of motor mount. That is why I typically go with the '73+ clamshell style of motor mount. They are a much better design. |
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When I scavenged my '75 clip , I made sure to take the perches too , just in case.
Any tricks to shortening them to fit?? T |
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Here are the perches I got. The same ones that many on the site have used. |
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Thanks for looking in. Getting the engine in is a major milestone for me and now I can just started spending and attaching stuff during the winter.:lol: |
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Sorry to hear about the mounts...they can be a big pain. I'm staying with the ol 6 banger in my truck so I (HOPE) I won't go through quite the same experience. lol. Well glad you have been able to find a neat set of tube mounts...looks cool. Hope the new ones work well. T.J.:chevy:
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I got the perches and mounts and proceeded to install them. I held the perches up as close as I could to the old ones and they appeared to be okay to the untrained eye. I unbolted the trans crossmember to allow for movement, hooked up the cherry picker and loosened up all of the bolts on the old mounts and perches so when I lifted the engine I could quickly unbolt everything and replace with the new stuff. So I've got the engine dangling on the crane and I have removed the old mounts a perches and then I realize the perches are not correct for the original mount holes, they are for mounting in the forward holes of the frame. It was getting late and I didn't want to leave the engine dangling on the crane so I decided to go ahead and loosely hook things up for the night while I researched whether they had sent me the wrong perches or if I had screwed up when ordering. When I got done and the engine was in I really like the way it sits in the frame. It sits just a little lower and more even and of course leaves lots of room at the firewall. My main concern from what I had read was the clearance of the radiator and accessories in front. I posted in the general thread for pics of other trucks with the mounts moved forward and I can't see any reason not to leave it this way. :metal: What do you think? |
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Motor looks great.
Are your headers or exhaust manifolds going to clear? drive line length ? Definitely has clearance for the radiator. |
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Great build! Keep up the good work.
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After much thought, and checking, and asking for opinions, I think the engine stays in the forward position. I just like the looks of it there and it seems and now there will be plenty of space at the firewall and a slightly lower center of gravity. Today I needed some thinkin' time so I plugged in the headphones and went to the garage and tore apart my driveshafts. They are in excellent shape and the u-joints were all good, but the carrier bearing was another story. That thing had been worn out for quit awhile. I've got to decide which way to go with them. New everything or get the one original shortened, and get new u-joints for both and balance and of course carrier bearing. I'll probably go new. Price and budget come in to play and I could always upgrade later if I want. Anybody want to talk me into one or the other? :lol::lol: |
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So, I picked up a driveshaft last weekend from a 2000 Silverado and took it in to have it rebuilt, shortened and balanced. I also stopped at a couple of places looking for a used flexplate dust cover for my 700r4. I never realized it would be so difficult. About the only thing I've seen for sale aftermarket is chrome and I don't want chrome. I stopped by the Chevrolet dealer near me to see if they had one and no luck there. But...............
this is what I bought and will be sitting in my driveway tomorrow. :ennyd::ennyd::wave: |
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Thing is massive. Could buy the chrome cover and etch/prime/paint it.
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Nice truck, what are you going to be pulling with it?
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Holy Smokes....
Me likey......Way to goooooo |
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So the CPP mounts would only work in the forward position? Why not just drill the hole where you need it in the crossmember to keep them in the rear position?
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I'll be running mine in the rear position, just the way I've planned/mocked this build. I'll see what firewall clearance I have once its mocked in the frame. If position is good I'll work the firewall around the covers. Probably would have been easier if I had gone w/swp, but I had all the fixings to run a lwp and it allowed more money on the engine build. I'll be getting there in a few weeks. Working on the donar crossmember swap/disk brake conversion/new front suspension part currently.
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Nice build, I followed a link to your thread from another one that was talking about different options for under bed tanks. I am trying to figure out if a 60-65 Falcon or Mustang tank will work in my '69. Do you happen to know if the frame rail spacing is the same from your truck to mine? Also, what are you doing for a sending unit? Sorry for the sidetrack.
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I've just been "buying and bolting" lately. :lol: I've picked up several engine necessities and I also finally located the flexplate dust cover I've been looking for. All of a sudden one showed up at Summit in powder coated black steel. The first I have been able to find except the chrome stuff. Just not a lot of choice for the 700r4 it seems. There wasn't a picture with the listing so I emailed them and they had me a photo back in a few hours. I bought it and a few other things and it took less than 3 days to get to me. I've bought quite a bit from them and they usually have a good price and in my experience great customer service. Ya think that'll get me something free?:lol::lol: Not really. It's just nice when you can get good service and I believe in recognizing that. |
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Looking good. Thanks for the info on the cover. I need to get one of those as well.
Bret |
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Thanks for looking in. I don't know the frame rail spacing but I think I've heard that yours is wider. The sender is still a question. I know of a place that I can get the mustang one changed to the correct resistance but they are a little spendy. I'm looking at some other options I might try to.
Mine is 28" between top flanges of the frame rails, would you mind measuring your tank to see if it would fit? I really appreciate it. |
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