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No new data at this time. I am looking to change distributors before doing any further tuning. It has been tough to find time lately for the truck and at this point my focus is on upgrading the defroster. Up to this fall I never had a problem with the windows fogging up. Now they seem to start fogging up the minute I close the door. :lol: My guess is the old wood floor allowed so much air flow it was like a fan blowing in back. Now that things are sealed up I need a new way to move air.
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Some follow up on the door panel wetness issue. I thought all was good but the 4th door panel started showing water after some particularly heavy rains as of late. So off it came and after examining the seal it was clear it was pretty deformed (see photo). So I cleaned it up and used some shower sealant to build the old seal back up so it will make full contact with the door panel. Once again I waiting for rain to prove my theory. Good thing that this time of year it won't be a long wait. :lol:
I got time today to get my test defroster finished up and installed. (Photo #2) I'm using a 12 vdc computer fan. The air is drawn in the front rectangular hole and blows out of the rectangular opening in the back and out of the hole in the side. (Last photo) The idea being it should defog the back window and the driver's side window. During the quick test after I got it installed I could feel it blowing on the back of my neck while sitting in the driver's seat. I believe that's a good sign. I used some double side tape and some more shower sealant to glue in position. (Thus the ceiling jack in the picture) I didn't want to go drilling holes if it doesn't work as well as I want it to. The plan would be to have 2 units like this one with one on each side. I just can't wait for the rain to start! :lol::lol::lol: Posted to some vintage Steve Earle. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...nv1XtYt4dvy3H_ |
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Looks like the fan should work pretty good. I have a bunch of those in different sizes that I have stripped out of old computer cases. Some of them move a lot of air. LockDooc |
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You are a crafty feller! This looks like a great idea. Thanks again for sharing your ingenuity!!
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Happy New Year everyone! :ennyd::ennyd::four::ennyd::four::ennyd::ennyd::ennyd::tim: |
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Hopped in the WMB and drove north to Tumwater where I met a nice man and gave him $900 for an overdrive upgrade. It came out of a 55 Chevy street rod that got converted to a 700r4. It came with a drive shaft and everything else, including all the paperwork. Dropped it off at the transmission shop for a going over. (It is supposed to have less than 10000 miles on it.) Just to be to be sure it is as represented. I do it need it to be reliable.
Anyone know if T400's and T350's use different dipstick tubes and cooling lines? In my perfect world they would be the same. :lol::lol: Sorry about the fuzzy photo it's from the C/L ad. |
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Thats a find! ^^^^^
Gear Vendors? |
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Here is a link to a good overview of a Gear Vendors unit.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...evrolet-camaro |
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Parts have been coming together. I had a turbo 350c rebuilt and mated to the gear vendor unit. I didn't even know about 350c's until a month ago. They were only built from 80 to 84 and came with a lockup torque convertor. Now I just need to round up some parts for lockup wiring and the time to do the swap.
The standard 350 in front and the rebuilt lockup 350 in the back. In other less than exciting news the fuel pump died so I replaced it with the smaller Mallory series 110 pump. As part of the change out I cleaned the pump prefilter. (2nd photo) I was surprised to find about 10-15% of the screen plugged with fuzz and silver flakes. Which after some thought I am assuming came from the changing of the fuel fill. Unfortunately had gasoline all over me so I didn't get any pictures. |
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Finally the weather and my days off coincided. Went out and changed the oil in the WMB and in the process noticed the left front wheel bearing was a bit loose so I tightened it up and in the process noticed the dust cover has a small crack in it so I need to locate one of those. I have noticed the truck wanting to wander a bit on the highway hopefully tightening the wheel bearing will help with that.
I swapped out the driver's side interior door handle relay. The old one has a broken spring. (Photo 1) Not to mention the well worn hole for the shaft. When I got a used relay from Mel at Classic Bowtie he pointed out that there is a difference between 67 relays and the later years. He didn't have any 67 relays but had some later ones and he gave me a later handle to use. I never noticed that I had 1 67 handle and 2 later year handles. Now they all match but I would rather have them all be 67's. Which would have been a great thing to put on the swap meet shopping list, but the Portland Swap Meet has been canceled due to the Covid-19. Ugh so I guess that will have to wait a while. I also tore the old fuel pump apart to see what failed. The brushes are quite worn but the real culprit turned out to be the lower bearing (2nd photo see arrow) failed and was locked up. I will see if I can locate a new bearing for cheap then I can have a spare. And the last photo is the new pump installed. |
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If the wheel bearing was bad enough to make the Burb wander I would think it would have ruined something inside. Hope that cures it though. If not, start with checking the steering box. Looks like the pump is pretty simple inside. When the bearing went out of my furnace purge blower motor I found out it was the same bearing used in skate board wheels. They were really cheap on Ebay. If you can find a number on it (they are usually pretty small) type it into the Ebay search box and it will probably come up.... LockDoc |
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I got it cleaned up enough to see numbers, but I didn't have my glasses handy to actually read the numbers. :lol:
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Sounds like you need to get a small magnifying glass for the shop....:) LockDoc |
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Damn I love reading all the cool stuff you do to your burb. I spend my time putting on filler and sanding it all off!
Keep up the good work! Paul |
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Aww shucks guys. Thanks!
I guess I should go get busy now the weather has turned better. |
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And on that note I took the nylon block I scored at the Rebuilding Center (I love that place.) and cut it to size and then flycut two pieces to the proper thicknesses (One .800 & one .700) to replace the spacers I had to put under the 2nd row seat bottoms to make up for the curvature of the floor. The two bolt set up and the spacers had a tendency to wobble. Next step is to get some material for doublers underneath the floorboard.
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Back on post 590 I covered the installation of my electric choke, but I never posted any follow up information as to the adjustments. Mostly because they were done at 0445 in the morning prior to departing for work so photos weren't possible. (Man sometimes I really hate being addicted to food and shelter!) :lol: So I finally took time to get a set of photos to use for this post. I have also gotten a new Think Pad and the camera has way too many variables and so the quality of my photos has dropped. Hopefully I can get a better at them over the long run.
The idea is to get the truck to run with a slightly elevated RPM immediately after it starts (and is on the fast idle cam.) And rising no more than about 300 RPM over the next few minutes. To do this you have to get the choke plate open the correct amount. If not you then you end up using the fast idle screw to bring the RPM up until the engine stays running and then a minute later the RPM has gone up to something like 1800. And since the choke stove hasn't warmed up enough you can't get the fast idle to kick down. Frustrating since no one like to drop it in gear at that RPM. One note before I start. Most carburetor rebuild kits have choke adjustment measurements shown in the instructions. They are your base line starting point. I won't cover those here. Due to wear, manufacturing tolerances and your particular engine's combination you will need to fine tune those to get proper choke operation. Picture one shows what your choke looks like before you get in the truck when it is cold. The blue arrow points to the fast idle cam. It is in the lowest position where is should be when your engine is warmed up. Notice the choke plate is fully open. (Vertical) When before you start the engine you need to pump the throttle once to "Set" the choke. (In weather below freezing I will pump the throttle a second time to give an extra shot of fuel to ensure a quick start) This causes the choke stove to pull the linkages and causing the choke plate be in the fully closed position. See photo 2. Notice the fast idle cam has moved to the highest position. Any time the fast idle cam is up from the lowest position the normal idle adjustment screw is not touching the throttle shaft and the idle is set with the fast idle screw on the passenger side of the primary throttle shaft. The choke plate must be completely closed at this point. If not then the choke stove needs to be rotated (blue arrows) Loosening the 3 screws that secure it and rotating it will cause its linkage to move up or down. (Green arrow) This in turn will open or close the choke plate. (Orange arrow) This is an initial adjustment that may be changed later. Once you start the engine the choke pull off will pull in (4th photo blue arrow. Compare to the position in the 5th photo) and that will open the choke plate a small amount (yellow lines) This amount is very important for if it is wrong your engine will not idle at a reasonable RPM. Open to much and the engine runs lean and dies. Closed too much and the engine dies from being too rich. To adjust the choke plate position the linkage from the choke pull off needs to be bent slightly. (Photo 5 bend at blue arrow) 2 small vice grips work well for this. Once the engine runs you can adjust the RPM with the fast idle adjustment screw. As the engine warms up the choke stove moves and changes how high the fast idle cam is held up. So as your driving the cam will be dropping when your not at idle. As it drops it won't hold the throttle shaft open as far. With a well adjusted choke your idle RPM will stay about the same (Slightly higher than when the engine is warm) as you drive until the choke is completely open. Now all of this is a bit of a dance between the different adjustments to get good cold engine operation. If the choke takes too long to come open then you have to rotate the choke stove to the leaner direction.. This may require you to change the bend in the rod that connects to the choke plate to get the to fully close before starting. Or you may need to have the choke stay closed longer so rotating the stove the otherway will be necessary. I normally make 5 to 10 adjustments to get a choke dialed in. Usually do one adjustment a day when the engine is cold. Then I drive it to see how each change affected the performance of the engine. Now I'm sure I have missed something as I've never wrote it all down before so if I have misspoke or made an error please respond. |
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Two steps forward one step back. Spent the morning searching for the leak in the air supply to my air control valve. I used about a quart of leak check with no results (Well I did find a small leak on one of the rear bag lines. Went in at lunch to see the old lady off to work and she said "why don't you use my stethoscope and listen for the leak?". So I did and it was slow going as I had to take them off every time I shifted position to keep from blowing an ear drum, but they were the ticket to success as I found a pretty good leak on the desiccant cartridge. I'll see in the morning if the tank is empty again.
And as so often happens one thing leads to another. Since I decided to remove the front seat to get to the leaking cartridge i decided it would be a good time to swap in the drivers side of the new set seats I got from a 2015 GMC. I wanted to try out the driver's side first just to be sure it wasn't going to cause my back to act up. (The seats in the old ladies Lexus start to bother me after about 20 minutes and the longer I ride in it the worse it gets). The old bench seat in the WMB doesn't bother my back at all but I certainly would like to have a taller seat with a head rest. Anyway after mocking the seats in position it was apparent that they were slightly wider than the original seat but I'm pretty sure I could modify the inboard mounts to get things to narrow up about 1/2" and then the driver's seat would pretty well centered on the wheel and the passenger seat would not crowd the seat belt retractor too much. All was looking good until I thought to lay the rear seat down and see how much clearance I would have. Well it turns out that I don't have any clearance to fold the seat bottoms up and then flip the backs down. (See last photo) Even after trying several different placements the fact is I won't fit behind the steering wheel if the rear seat is down. There is too much material on the back of the seats compared to the factory seat. So the seat swap is a no go. :waah: |
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I couldn't figure out what you were saying until I looked at the picture. That's too bad, the fronts looked good in there, and I bet they would be comfy..... LockDoc |
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I'm kinda of bummed about the seats. It took a bunch of searching to find a set of late model seats that weren't power assist with lumber adjustment. Oh well on to the next idea.
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Stumbled across this this morning from a post on the truck side. The search is on for the new perfect seat. I would like to find a factory design I could install for a test run. Or best case find some one to let me take a 2 hour test drive of their truck. :lol:
https://azproperformance.com/product...-seat-foam-kit This ford seat has potential too. 1992-1996 Ford F150 / F250 / F350 / F450 and 1997 F350 / F450 with a bench front seat |
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I ordered some isolation mounts for the air tank from McMaster Carr some months ago. When the compressor is running and the tank pressure is real low the noise inside is loud. After some investigation I determined that the reason it is louder is until the tank gets about 40 PSI in it you hear the check valve rattling. So my theory is by putting some sound insulators on the feet the check valve noise won't travel through to the floor as bad. The unfortunate side of the mounts is that I had to drill the holes out to 13/16" to install them. Dropping the tank was a must so I've been putting this off for a while. Not a lot of photos. First one of the mounts, new bolts and the bit I bought to drill the feet. And a photo of one installed.
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Over the last 2 weeks or so I have been doing some more tuning on the old Qjet. The secondaries were super slow to open, so slow sometimes I wasn't even be aware they had opened. Being that the carburetor is a 1978 vintage I would be surprised if it they weren't slow to open. Those were the years of lean carburetor mixtures and low numerical gear ratios, every thing you need to get an engine to detonate itself into scrap metal. So GM used choke pull offs with a very slow bleed off to help keep engines alive. Today with my motor, these conditions don't exist, so I want quicker secondaries! :sumo:
So I used a vacuum tester (Similar to photo # 1) and hooked it up to the choke pull off to get my base line. To hook it up I removed the hose to the choke pull off where it hooked to the carburetor (Blue arrow photo #2). I then hooked that hose to the clear hose from the tester (Yellow arrow photo #2. Please forgive the bad photo the connection of the black hose from the pull off and the clear hose from the vacuum pump is behind the guage. Dhoo!) and then pumped until the pull off was fully retracted (red arrow and notice 8 inches of vacuum photo #2). Once I opened the vacuum release I timed how long it took for the pull off to return, i.e bleed off. (The choke pull off has a diaphragm and a spring inside and vacuum compresses the spring. Remove the vacuum and the spring returns to the normal state. (See photo 3 red arrow and zero vacuum) By repeatedly operating the pull off and timing it I came up with a base line number of about 3.0 seconds to bleed off. That means every time I punched the throttle I had to wait 3 seconds to get full throttle. In comparison a top fuel dragster covers the 1/4 mile, (Well 1000 feet these days.) in 3.6 seonds. Painfully slow! The speed in which the vacuum bleeds off is controlled by an orifice inside the pull off just visible through the tube where the vacuum hose hooks up. (Photo #4) The larger the hole the faster it bleeds the vacuum off. As you can see it is a very small hole. So small in fact I was unable to accurately measure it. My best guess is that it is about .010. (The amount of work it took to drill from .0135 to .0145 was noticeably less than when I drilled the .0135 hole that and the small change in bleed off between .0135 & .0145 leads me to my estimate of the original orifice size.) To modify the pull off I needed to drill the orifice larger using my smallest drill bit, a #80 .0135. First I removed the pull off from the carb and clamped it in a small vice. Having chucked the #80 in a pin vise I slowly drilled the orifice out to .0135. (It took like 10 minutes. Being very careful not to break the bit off in the orifice. ) Hooking up the tester back up I measured the bleed off time. Now it was 2.2 seconds. Progress in the right direction but still more to go. So I went to a # 79 bit .0145. The .0145 gave me a slightly faster 2.0 bleed off. Next up was .016 a #78 bit. Now that gave me about a 1 second bleed off. I decided that was good for now and reinstalled the pull off on the carburetor for some on the road testing. The last photo shows my results and next to each result is the bit used (they look like pencil lines on the paper.) I actually made a video of the bleed off times only to find out I can't post them. |
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Was at the gas station last night an realized that I have put 20k miles on the WMB since I got it up and on the road. Yeehaw! :ennyd:
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And I thought I drove the Panel Truck a lot. Wow! I don't hold a candle to you...:) LockDoc |
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It's that 8 mile commute to work that really racks up the miles. :lol:
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More on the choke pull off modification. I decided that the 1 second bleed off rate was still to slow so I drilled it out to .018. That definitely made it quicker. It was actually was too fast for me to get an accurate measurement with the stop watch function on my phone. But it was definitely less than one second. I reinstalled the choke pull off and now I'm driving it for a couple of days to get a good idea of how it's working.
I want to point out that drilling the orifices is not as simple to get the ideal result as it may seem to be. When I drilled the .0135 hole out to .0145 I changed the area of the hole 15.37%. When I drilled the .0145 hole out to .0160 I changed the area of the hole 22.09% When I drilled the .0160 hole out to .0180 I changed the area of the hole 26.20% As you can see every step larger makes a much larger increase over the last step. Something to keep in mind if you are performing this modification. Back in the day it was easy to get a another pull off at the wrecking yard for a buck or two if I drilled one out too big. These days the wrecking yards are empty when it comes to Qjets and new pull offs are twenty bucks a pop. At this time I readjusted the spring tension on the secondary flapper. The tension is controlled by a small screw next to the flapper shaft. The screw is locked in place with a allen set screw. (Photo #1 spring tension screw blue arrow, set screw red arrow.) I was looking for the least tension on the flapper that would still allow it to return the flapper to the closed position. This is my base line starting point. The idea is to get the secondaries to open as fast as possible with out causing the engine to stumble or bog. It is a balancing act as what might work perfectly when you punch it on the freeway may be to quick for off the line causing the engine to fall on its face. The dreaded Quadrabog! :ack::ack: More to follow. |
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Great detective work there!
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Great info!
Thanks again for sharing. Thats too bad the late model front seats didnt work out. I have no doubt that you will find, build, or modify something that does though! |
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Thank you gentlemen.
The hunt is on for one of the seats I posted earlier (#625). Well, by hunt I mean looking at craigslist. The old lady doesn't want me traipsing around the country yet. |
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If you find that you have drilled to large an orifice in the choke pull off you can solder or braze it closed and try again. In fact it may be easier/faster to just drill it out completely then soldering it or brazing it closed as it's easier material to drill out than the metal housing material is.
I had the original factory quadrajet on my 72 c10 for years. I researched so much info about quadrajets it's crazy. I got really comfortable with taking it apart and cleaning it and rebuilding it. At first it was a nightmare because I had no idea how they worked or what was even inside. Anyways, long story short is I had to replace it. I learned that the main body casting of the carb had tiny hair line cracks in the venturi booster walls where the vacuum chambers are for the manifold vacuum signal port on the passenger side of the carb.(directly behind the choke pull off canister.) My truck ran great for about the first hour of driving. Then it would have a weird kind of hunting idle speed and it was leaking fuel into the vacuum chambers that it eventually leaked fuel into my distributor vacuum advance canister and rotted the diaphragm giving me both a vacuum leak and a malfunctioning vacuum advance. Oh man, it took me literally months to figure that whole mess out. It's to bad because I really liked my quadrajet. I actually miss it. :( Another thing to check is the power piston spring tension. There is a way to measure the spring rate based on inches of vacuum. It's similar to the step up springs in an edelbrock. You want a stiffer spring so that the metering rods lift up out of the jets sooner(higher vacuum signal) vs. Later(lower vacuum signal). of course you need to match your timing curve in the distributor to the fuel demand of the engine and the flow of your carb. Fun stuff once you get it all dialed in. :) oh, one other thing I found out with my quadrajet is that they dont really like having any other fuel filters inline. Only the small paper one inside the carb body. They are finicky carbs and they know what they want and what they need. As long as your tank/pickup/fuel lines are clean. You shouldn't really have a problem just running the small filter inside the body. I didnt have any problems with mine. But it didnt like a filter between the pump and carb inlet. That's for sure. You want 7/8 of a turn of preload on your secondary butterfly spring tensioner. That's as soon as the spring arm contacts the carb body 7/8 turn more and lock it in with the set screw. |
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I know the feeling when you get a good carburetor you hate to lose it. Good job on figuring out the problem with your Qjet. It is unfortunate that it was one of those un-repairable problems.
Its interesting that you have found Qjets to be finicky where I have the opposite opinion of them. They are usually pretty easygoing compared to lots of other carburetors I've come across. Unless you try to bolt one off of a 230CI on a 454CI engine. Then you got your work cut out for you trying to getting it to idle We have had some folks at work get sick (NON COVID) this week so I've had to work straight through since my last post until today and I've had a bunch of catch up to do just to keep the home front happy. But will I have some more Qjet information to post when I get some more time to tune the WMB. |
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The issues with my carb are the reason why I had a hard time getting it to hold a tune. My truck has been driven all over the u.s. for a number of years because it was a tow rig for a 5th wheel. The original owner bought it as a retirement gift to himself back in 72. Him and his wife drove all over the place. So by the time I got hold of it. The carb was on its last leg. Dont have a bad thing to say about the quadrajet. Other than it having a bad rep with people that dont understand them. Lol.
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Some more Qjet information. In the previous carburetor posting I said that I loosened the air flapper to the minimum tension. I knew this to be too loose for the motor in the WMB but I like to test and then make a change. So out to the freeway i went. Once things were warmed up I slow to about 45 mph and then punch the throttle. If the flapper is too loose it will bog. I then repeat the test several times to get a good idea of what is happening. Then pull off the highway and tighten up the tension on the flapper 1/4 turn and go for another test. I repeat this until I no hesitation. I will have to loosen the tension spring when I go to far. Which is always the case.
MiketheGrad said that 7/8th of a turn was where he set his. I don't know if that is where mine end up as I've never gone back and checked the setting that way. Next for me is tuning the choke pulloff bleed off rate. Earlier I had drilled the orifice on the pull off and warned about drilling it too far and making it too fast and ended up with the dreaded Quadrabog! I did end up with an over sized bleed off orifice once I was finished. Once again MiketheGrad told how he solves that problem. By soldering the orifice and then redrilling the hole. At one point years ago I had a plastic pulloff which is very difficult to solder and I had no luck using epoxy to get a long term repair. For whatever reason JB Weld never seemed to stay stuck inside the the pulloff. I ended up stumbling on some brass aquarium air valves and then light went off in my head. I installed one of them in the vacuum line and now I had an adjustable pull off. Which was very handy back when I was bracket racing. One setting for the street and another setting for at the track with the slicks on. These days brass aquarium valves are impossible to find so a friend made me one. See photo #1. Photo #2 shows how I install the valve. When tuning the pulloff I open it too far and close it in 1/4 turn increments. And again I will start with a bog and reduce it until it is gone. I test for this differently than the flapper, but once starting again with the engine warmed up. I punch the throttle from a dead stop and tune the bog out. Now with the WMB and the current engine excessive wheel spin isn't an issue. :lol: But if it were I could slow the opening of the secondary flapper with the valve making it easier to hook up off the line. Now these adjustments do require the engine to have a good basic tune before starting. Changes in timing can cause these adjustments to need some tmore weaking. The more you do the more you learn and the easier it gets. On a separate project I forgot to post a photo of the nylon spacers I made for the rear seat mounts. (Back on post # 617) |
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I love nylon for spacers -- no squeaks, no rust, easy on paint, and durable. I used HDPE to level out my bed!
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Never seen one of those valves, that's pretty cool.
Another way to solve the over drilling on the plastic type of choke pull off is to get some delrin round stock or similar type material and cut it to fit inside a piece of vacuum tubing, then using a pin vise or jewelers drill set, drill the orifice you want in the round stock and insert it in the tubing that feeds the choke pull off. Cool thing about this is that you can have different pieces for different setups like at the track or the street. |
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