Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
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Unfortunately, it won't be ready for Brother's this year. I still need to do all of the brake and fuel lines and do the wiring kit. Plus, I want to get all of the lettering on it before I get it on the road. Did you get your rear suspension sorted out? Are you going to Brother's? Quote:
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Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
The footer is the 16" wide x 4-6" thick separately poured ring at the bottom that the basement walls sit on. Dug the entire back and one side 8' deep all the way to the bottom x 3' wide. Grading was bad, trapping water with no gravel or drainage on the back and clay soil, which would expand and squeeze the house. Water would come UP through the window wells and go in the basement windows. Back wall was split horizontally and pushed in 2" at the worst spot. No one would touch it and the only estimate I got was 20k. Called an engineer friend for analysis/plans (2 cases of CL) and called the redneck friends and did it all myself for 2200 ish. It was kinda fun, actually. Everyone thought I was nuts. Ha, I win.
Ah, better understanding of your deal. Duuuuude, that sucks. Really, I'm sorry. Does it get cold enough in the high desert for the lines in the attic to be a problem, esp in Pex? Hmmrm... Well, at least you got 'er staved off for now. I 'bleve I'd carpet them bathrooms! |
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We're in the High Desert at 3000ft above sea level, where the temperature can get as low as the single digits in the winter to triple digits in the summer. We have huuuge temperature swings here, where we can have a 40 degree difference between the low and high temps of the day.
I've got R-19 insulation in the attic, so I think PEX would be just fine up there. It's funny that you mentioned carpeted bathrooms. When we bought the house, both bathrooms were fully carpeted, and when I ripped it all out to lay tile, the area around the toilets stunk so bad that I still cringe to this day. And I think that they kept a cat box in the common bathroom, tucked around behind the toilet. Ughhhh..... When we got the house, we gutted it and started fresh. The folks who owned the house before us were a little strange, to say the very least. Their cat lived in the attic........seriously. |
Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
Cats in the attic- Oy Vey! Can't believe you can stand it now! I used to be in the cat damage remediation bidness. Nasty.
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Very nice build I just bought a 66 last week and you've give me some great ideas and motivation
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People never fail to amaze me. In my field of work I see every way people can live and do live. We have three cats and I'm over the top of keeping the litter boxes clean. They are out of sight and you don't smell them. I've been to peoples houses and it smells soon as you open the door. Two of our cats go out but we have one that stays in. I've seen cats tear up duct work in attics and crawlspaces. I've seen squirrels tear up duct work in attics before. They can really do some damage. Luckily with three cats, we don't have a mouse problem. We did when we moved in but the cats got to work. Our neighbors like the cats because they keep the mice and other rodents at bay.
Sorry to hear about your problems and I hope that you are able to get them fixed so that we can get more truck updates. Man I'm itching for more. I can't wait to see the bed of this thing and all the work you have done. Keep on keeping. |
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Dimwits heve their uses, though. Bet you got a good buy-in, but ohhhhh the horror! (lol! Been there.) Hope it levels out and you're back in the shop soon. Some of us need some inspiration 'round here! |
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Someday we convoy down there in our trucks, along with all the other guys from our area!
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Sounds good.
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I've been working a lot on the fuel system on the '64, and I figured that it was time to start posting up what I've been doing. I did a ton of work on the tank(s), but I have a few more things to do on them before I'm ready to post up my progress.
I was drawing a blank on how I wanted to vent the tanks, and I came up with probably a half dozen ideas, and none of them got me excited. I didn't want a clunky looking system, and it had to perform well. I did not want a vent system that made the inside of the garage smell like raw fuel, so I needed to make a filtered vent system. If you remember a few months back, I built two extra crossmembers out of 1"x3" tubing to support the middle of the bed floor after I raised it. I decided that the forward crossmember would now serve two purposes, support the bedfloor and vent the tank. Here's what I did: I wanted a vent system that had the opening to the atmosphere higher than the tank outlet so it could vent most efficiently. The bedfloor crossmember was about the only thing above the tank because I raised the tanks as high as I could get them for extra ground clearance. I decided to utilize the crossmember as a vent chamber. I came in 10" from each end of the crossmember and made a cut: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps24216afb.jpg I then cut a piece of .125" thick steel to the inner dimension of the tube: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps5c498300.jpg And slid it into the cut. I made it a tad bit shorter on the top so I could get a good weld on it: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psc8581b6b.jpg Welded and ground smooth. Now, the tube has the first part of the chamber. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps28d727bf.jpg I bought a couple of cheap K&N clone filters off of ebay for $5 each, and cut a section of steel tubing from a scrap power steering pressure line I had laying around and drilled a hole in the crossmember and welded the tube into place. I took a 1/4 NPT x 1/4 barb fitting and threaded it into the tube as well. The barb fitting will be the connection to the rollover vent valve on the tank. The area that is marked with a Sharpie shows the size of the chamber. When it all goes back together for the final time, I will fill the chamber with activated charcoal . The section on the end that is unmarked will have a foam plug to contain the charcoal, and there with be a plastic tubing cap on the end. This will give me the capability of reservicing the charcoal at a later date, if needed. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps643526f1.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa5ee0b51.jpg There you have it. A cheap ($7 in parts) fuel tank vent! I will post up the progress on the tanks very soon. I wish I would have taken more pictures of what I did. |
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Hmmmm.... Me likey! Good to hear from you. Is Brad gonna make Speedweek, and are you going?
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Have you seen Brad's car on Facebook? The car is turning out awesome, and for a first time chassis builder, the quality is on par with any high-end shop in So Cal. I have extremely high standards, and even I'm blown away. He's going to use some of my aerospace connections to build the body, and with the guys I introduced him to, it'll be off the charts. These are the guys who designed, engineered, and built the Red Bull space capsule that Felix Baumgartner set the manned freefall record a couple of years ago. They are some smart guys who love to think waaaaay outside the box. When that car makes it to Bonneville, it'll be a ground breaker in innovation and technology. here's his F-book page: https://m.facebook.com/brad.king.1694 |
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Got on the website thru his 49 thread. Looks very nice! Oughta be fun, watching it grow.
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Man you are one smart cookie. I finally got my cheap fix for the day. Thanks. Looking good!
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That vent set up is slick. Won't take up any room either.
Thanks for the write up. |
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Loving the progress and what your doing.
Good luck with house plumbing issues. |
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I have been working hard on the '64, so I figured that I should start posting up some progress. I mentioned earlier in this thread that I removed the factory fuel tank in order to gain more cab room. I also didn't want to lose the capability of storing the spare tire, so a rear mounted tank was out of the question. My truck was originally equipped with a pair of aftermarket saddle tanks, and from the beginning, I was adamant about getting rid of them. After some thought, I decided that the saddle tanks could come in quite useful if I upgraded them and made them the primary fuel tanks for the truck. The tanks were essentially gas cans with no floats, sending units, or proper vent system. In order to make them work, I would need to upgrade them to a proper sending unit/float and put a safe, effective vent system in them.
I used to have pictures of what the tanks looked like when I pulled them out, but because I wasn't planning on using them, I deleted them from my camera. They were disgusting! The exteriors were rusty, the interiors were rusty, and the driver's side tanks had a HUGE beehive inside of it. Before I cleaned the inside of the tanks, I decided to drill the hole for the sending unit. Once I determined where the bed support braces were going to be, I marked the tanks for the hole pattern using the plate that came with the sender (Classic Instruments is the manufacturer of the senders). http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psbac4f167.jpg After I drilled the holes. The plate that came with the kit is threaded, and will get welded to the tank, and the sender with bolt to the plate. In this picture, you can see how nasty the inside of the tank was. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps8f33faa0.jpg I also drilled the tanks for the filler. I am going to have access doors in the bed floor, and the fillers are the push through type from Tanks, Inc. I have an idea for the access doors, but I'm not ready to that yet. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps44d2cc2c.jpg In my typical fashion, I got in a hurry and stopped taking pictures. I also welding in threaded bungs for the roll-over vent valves, which I also got from Tanks, Inc. I showed the tank vent mod that I did a few posts ago, so I won't go into detail about that. After the drilling and grinding, it was time to clean the tanks. The beehive was a real challenge, and it took me a few hours to get it all out. After that, I poured 2 gallons of undiluted muriatic acid in each one and let it sit for an hour. After that, I sloshed the solution around for about 30 minutes. I then filled the tanks to the top with water and let them sit overnight. In the morning, I drained the tanks and then put two boxes of baking soda and refilled the tanks to neutralize the acid. What a difference! The interior of the tanks turned out nice and clean. I then poured some WD-40 inside and sloshed the insides to ensure that it wouldn't flash rust. I plan to paint the exterior of the tanks when I'm finished with the fab work, so right now, they're in metal etch primer to prevent them from rusting. Next step: Fuel lines, filter, and tank solenoid. |
Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
The tanks were temporarily re-installed, and I went to work bending fuel lines. Because I am using a factory GM fuel tank selector solenoid, I decided to mount it on the passenger side framerail and bring the right and left fuel lines to it. I installed new 1/4 NPT/3/8 inverted flare fittings in the tanks. Here is a shot of the driver's side fuel line, which follows the trailing arm crossmember over to the passenger's side. The line is clamped with Adel clamps and has air-gap clearance for the entire run. The lines do not touch adjacent metal at any point during their entire run. That's something I learned from all of my years in aerospace. A rubbing line WILL eventually rub a hole.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psed341751.jpg And a shot showing the route out of the passenger tank http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psb38570c4.jpg Here is a shot of the solenoid and the filter. I built a filter bracket out of 1"x3" square tubing using a 1.5" hole saw. The filter locks in and gets secured with a hose clamp. I'm still in the mock-up stage so none of the lines are clamped. All of the rubber lines shown in the picture will be replaced with 3'8" fuel injection hose and F.I. line clamps. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse890e94a.jpg The fuel line to the fuel pump eventually met up with the trans cooler lines, so I routed them together. I was going to make my own billet clamps to secure them, but I had a brainstorm to utilize spark plug wire separators instead. I found a set on ebay for $18 that were for a 9.5mm wire, and if you do the conversion, 9.5mm is almost exactly 3/8", so they worked perfectly. In order to make them work, I had to drill out the hole that secures the halves together to .250", and now, the bolt that holds the halves together is also the mount bolt. I made a couple of standoffs from some steel tubing to space the lines away from the frame. Here's a shot of the fuel and tranny cooler lines as they come up the frame rail and go over the front suspension crossmember. The trans lines are on the top, and the fuel line is on the bottom. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps34cb9db0.jpg When the lines got to where the fuel pump is, I stopped the fuel line and continued the cooler lines to the front radiator crossmember. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psf716005a.jpg I built a fuel line from the pump to the carb last night, but it was getting dark, and after looking at it this morning, I have a better route planned. That line is tricky to make because the serpentine brackets give you no access holes to sneak a line through. On another note, I am always checking Craigslist for C10 stuff, and I found a guy selling a brand new Early Classic hidden hitch for $75! I am running a '67-'72 fleetside rear bumper, and that's what this hitch is designed for. The receiver section sits behind the license plate, and you use a flip bracket and slide the hitch into it. I was going to buy a universal hitch and modify it, but this save me a TON of fab work. It's a really nice piece, and seriously heavy duty (heavy). The build quality is nice, like all of ECE's stuff. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps31725abd.jpg I'm getting a lot of little things done, so that's a good thing. My helpers, on the other hand, are less than enthused. This little guy will stay with me under the truck for hours, even when I'm throwing sparks and using loud tools. A great shop dog. The other Pug is sneaky, and likes to sniff around places he's not supposed to be, knowing that I'm busy and can't watch him. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps9b1bc69c.jpg |
Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
I love these builds that are so carefully thought out. Some nice work you're doing! :bowtie:
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Awesome work as usual man. I like all the tidbits of info on routing and securing fuel lines. Very kool work. Thanks for posting up some updates!
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Nice line work! Gettin' close to makin' noise!
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I went over to Alex' house this afternoon because he had an AC fitting I needed for my truck deal and I finally saw his fuel and transmission, first attempt at making lines deal. Holy crap! It came out absolutely AWESOME and I was blown away by how clean and tidy it was! This truck is going to blow people away when they actually look at all the nice little details! Who says low buck can't be badass?! Nice job dude!
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I would posit that low buck is MORE badass, since you didn't just go out and buy whatever.
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Nice work on the lines, you have a lot of patience and are doing everything top notch, for sure. I have two pugs also, and they must have the same personalities as yours. One just likes to hang around, and is perfectly happy just to be by people, the other one needs to be watched or he likes to go exploring.
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Wow, I just made it through this whole build so far. To say I'm impressed is an understatement. Your work is amazing. If my truck turns out half as good as yours I will be happy
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I finally read this whole thread. So cool.
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Your Gas Tank Vent filter was an inspiration to me. I went a bit different route but would not have been able to achieve the results without your insight into the issue. Thanks
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here is the link to my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619304 My filter is not multi function but it is simple, cheap and does the job. it is on page 3
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I am watching your steering wheel progress with interest. Mine is very similar. It is a Superior that I bought new the first time I reconditioned the truck in the 80's. the chrome is marginal and like you I am considering sanding it all off, doing a brushed sand job and clearing the whole thing with SPI clear. I do like the look. The alternative would be to paint silver with metal flake. The problem I see with that approach is getting a good paint job on the metal sandwiched by the wood.
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I did some more on the truck today. Initially, I wanted to start making brake lines, and went to the local NAPA to get supplies. My proportioning valve is out of the '79 donor truck, so I figured that getting the proper fittings wouldn't be a big deal. Well, my NAPA did not have the fitting for the rear brake port for the prop. valve, so I decided to do something else instead.
I have been mocking up AC lines for the past few days, and I was having a tough time deciding where to locate the low and high pressure service fittings where they wouldn't look like an afterthought. I came up with an idea where the low and high pressure ports would be in the same area, and still maintain a nice, clean hose route. I wound up using the battery tray as a foundation, and make a bracket that hold both service ports. I had some 1/8" plate that I cut on my bandsaw, and bent it to shape. I mounted the service ports with 3/8" clamps on the high pressure port and 5/8" clamps on the low pressure port. I drilled the bottom of the bracket and match-drilled it to the tray. All of the clamps and attach bolts are 1" 1/4-20 bolts with nylocks. I even cut the -6 and -10 hose to length, and all I need to do is take them over to a friend's shop to crimp the ends. I'm trying to make the hoses route cleanly and not look like an add-on, as most AC systems do. AC is not an attractive accessory. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psf3f5f08e.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psa84a2bb5.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...pse4f2d8ca.jpg I still need to make the -6 hose from the high pressure side of the port to the evaporator, weld new -10 and -12 fittings to the compressor manifold, and build the -12 line from the compressor to the evaporator. |
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Im not sure if you knock it out of the park on the first try every time (me, it always takes 2,3-5 tries and a fist full of cash) to get it perfect. My case it isn't perfect but I try. a lot. re-do try again.
You make it look so easy and clean. Keeps me motivated to do it right! Clean lookin. Always impressed. |
Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
Thanks, Bomp!
I don't always knock it out of the park on the first try, but I tend to over-research before I do anything. I also wind up buying a lot of bolts and fittings I'll never use and staying in the test-fit and mock-up stage for way too long. My biggest concern is always that the mod I'm presently working on will not work with a later mod, and I'll have to re-do everything. I really despise having to do stuff over, especially after you've worked so hard the first time. I have a huge level of respect for the top hot rod builders like Troy Trepanier, Bobby Alloway, and Dave Lane, who never seem to get off-track and they maintain a high level of quality and craftsmanship from start to finish. That is so hard to do. I always like checking in on your build. You have got guts, and you try stuff that would scare the average builder (like me). Just when I think that you've bit off too much, you come out of it and I shake my head in amazement. Your cab stretch mod is a perfect example. |
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Yours has to be the most informative and inspirational thread on the board. I have shamelessly taken your ideas and will be working them into my own build.
Thank you. P. :D |
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All this stuff is lookin' really tight. Please continue. |
Re: Project '64 Cheapskate
After a lot of searching, I finally found 9/16-18 and a 7/16-20 line nuts for a 3/16ths line, so I started on bending brake lines. I figured that the trickiest lines to make will be the ones coming out of the master cylinder, because I want them to tuck under the brake booster and then hit the firewall and go down to the frame rail. Because of the tight area and the complicated route, I have to rely completely on my tube jig, which happens to be a piece of welding wire. Once you make the first bend, you have to do the rest of the route on the bench and hope you got it right. So far, I have done the route all the way to the firewall, and right now, I'm trying to figure out how I want to clamp the lines down to the frame. I kind of hosed myself when I started bending the second line. I made the lines 1/2" apart, only to find out that nobody makes a double line clamp with that spacing. So, I grabbed some aluminum I had in my stash and made three billet line separators. I cut them .9" long and .4" tall, then drilled the holes for the lines and the attach fastener, and then cut them on the bandsaw. I filed the surfaces smooth and then dressed the edges on the belt sander.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psf96ac458.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps29ed6943.jpg I plan on bending the lines to match the firewall and then continue to the frame tomorrow. I'm going to have to do some very careful measuring because if I make a mistake, the lines are junk and will have to be re-bent. |
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