Re: S10 Swap how to
 

awesome news! glad to hear it chris


Mains52, I have hung a motor and trans in the hole using a cherry picker, jacks, and holding my tongue right to weld in mounts. level the frame first, then level the motor 4 degrees down towards the rear. keep a little offset to the passenger side (use the oval holes on the top of the s10 frame to the cast line on your trans) and keep the motor straight in the frame. by the time you set everything where it needs to be, you can tack in your mounts.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

that seems like a lot of work. i just use a chunk of 2x4 betweenthe oil pan and crossmember and a jackstand under the tailshaft.

if anyone is interested one of my builds is for sale in kc. he's asking 10k, and in my opinion it's well worth it. it is a 52 gmc on an s10 chassis with a 4.3/700 and a disk brake camaro rear. it is currently titled and licensed. this is literally a turn key truck, and you know i build 'em right! here's a link to the build pics https://www.facebook.com/pg/OSGcusto...55911077861390 i'll post a current pic and his # as soon as i get them,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

here are some pics of when i delivered it.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

unless you were lifting the engine into the frame with your bare hands, your way is one step more than mine. :lol:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

of course i use a hoist to lift it.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

You guys crack me up.

Joedoh: Thanks for the tips. I was able to get it leveled and lined up. I got my mounts tacked in this past Friday. I used a little of your technique mixed with a little of Skymangs technique.

Skymangs: I very glad to hear you're doing well. I've only been on here a little while but you seem to have a huge support group and following here and I am one of them now . Thanks for all of your tips and info.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you bet, just trying to "pay it forward"

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, I would like to use my stock steering column. Is it possible or no?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Stock S10 engine question. I have the V6 in a 1988 S10. Do I keep the radiator and fan or do I need to replace those for a slimmer model to fit the Chevy 3100 front clip on? Second question, do I need to move the engine back or forward at all or is it ok in its spot and I just use the cab mounts to get the cab and fenders in the right place around the existing engine?

Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymags, im glad to hear your doing better and i want to say thanks for this thread. It would be nice to put everything in a book for reference.

My question is and i dont know how much was covered but what do you do to make your box supports and how you mount them. I might have missed it after read 700+ post on this thread.

Or if anyone knows the post number would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

skymangs, I saw the 52 GMC while browsing CL yesterday, figured it was one of yours.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you have to move the motor back about 8.5 inches. you can keep the radiator and fan if you box in the inners for a radiator mount but most guys just use the 19x22 rad and add a trans cooler and electric fan. see my booger thread for mounting the stock s10 rad.

edit: I realized I asked skymangs the same exact question as you before I did my first swap haha. I was hopeful not to move the engine too.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

As always, thanks for the post JoeDoh. Not sure I could have made it this far without your responses. Funny now that I have the S10 blown apart and I look at your Booger build thread, everything makes sense and looks right. I must be learning something! Any chance you have a picture of the V6 motor mounts? Do I just build an adapter plate with an 8.5" offset or is there more to it?

I'm finding myself with more and more questions simply because I am planning a few steps ahead and working on steps I know I'm good with. Obviously blowing apart the truck wasn't terribly difficult, but I didn't want to damage anything I wanted in the future. Looking ahead, I have to start thinking about what gets fabricated first, what I need to fit back on first, etc.

Just have the passenger side electrical and ECU to take out and the cab can come off.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

my fenix project is a 91 s10 like your current truck, and I go into detail on how I built and lined up the motor mounts. remember that you need exactly 16.5 inches between the mounts center to center, dont let them get wider as you go back.

also in this thread skymangs does a great job explaining how to hang the motor and build mounts.

on my first one (47 gmc) we built a bolt in adapter plate that moved the engine 6.5 inches, it needed a little more and it didnt make sense to use a plate to do that on the 49

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

first of all thanks for all the props. i'm no where near the first guy doing this. i just thought i'd take a little of my time to share my knowledge and experience. i found it frustrating on my first build that no one would give up any real info.

gigamanx, 52ratrod and Mains52 spend some time reading the first few pages of this thread.

and mains52, you can use your stock steering column, classic parts sells a bearing that will convert your closed column to an open one.

for thoseOf you who don't know, I lived with my dad for the last six months. We were involved in a terrible traffic accident on 12 May, my dad passed six days later in the hospital. I am now living with my sister in northern Iowa. I still plan on coming all truck nationals though

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Funny you say that, I was just reading the first 10-15 pages again today. Every time I take a major step in the project and reread this thread things become a little more clear. Great example is using the brake pedal mount from the S10. Totally makes sense now haha

Sorry to hear of so much loss in your life. I can't imagine what it takes to fight through the day but I'm glad you're doing alright.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks, it's been a rough couple of years.my wife decided that she didn't want to take care of me for rest of my life, so she filed for divorce, and she's trying to be very greedy.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

ouch! sorry to hear that!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Damn, sorry to hear this Chris, prayers that things start going your way...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hey skymangs. I did the muriatic acid dip as you suggested for the frame rails but it seems there is still a slippery coating of some kind on the metal. I'm wondering if I diluted the acid too much in water before applying. The container says 120z per gallon of water. Also, there is a bit of surface rust on the rails; am I ok to wire wheel that down to metal before I do the acid part or will that push the wax into the pores?

Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

It will push the wax into the pores. I never dilute the acid, I just apply the acid directly to the frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Tried your suggestion. I must be doing something wrong. I apply the muriatic acid with a toothbrush so its localized. Seems like its working, but there is still rust and patches of black (I'm assuming that's the wax) I've tried a couple of times and the best result I ended up getting so far is a light wire wheel to get the rust off then hit it with muriatic acid. I dissolve the acid with ammonia to neutralize it. I'm working on little patches to figure out the right combination.

Still not happy with the spotty results I'm getting. Maybe I bought the wrong stuff?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-Green...9-538a2e6cad36

You can see in the pic. The middle section had naval jelly for 30 min then wire brush then muriatic acid then ammonia. Seemed to get pretty clean after all that. The other two sections had muriatic acid only as well as the side of the frame. It didn't seem to get through the rust very well.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4235/3...3a1636aa_z.jpg

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm interested in this answer as well. I never had a ton of luck with the muriatic acid. I use a combination of wire wheels, sanding discs, and flap wheels until it's as clean as I think it's going to get, then follow that with phosphoric acid...let that sit for 20-30 min (keep it wet), then wipe it off. Seemed to weld OK.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

That is the right stuff all right. I never had any difficulty with it, I just applied the muriatic acid then the ammonia. The water after the ammonia to dilute it. Then I am free to weld the cab mounts on. I have never had all this trouble. Maybe it's not perfect, I don't know.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

On the first couple of pages it is suggested to use a 32" column, would a 33" column be too much? Or can I get away with that?

I've found one I like, but it's the extra inch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I couldn't see any issues with 1" longer column.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

just make sure you fit behind the wheel before you make it permanent. these trucks dont have a lot of room with the stock seat and still are tight (to the steering wheel) with a late model truck seat.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have my 51 cab and body mounted on my 92 S10 frame. I placed the cab mounts 2 1/8" forward of the oval holes. All the bolt holes in the cab line up with the mounts well. I hung my fenders, core support, inner fenders, and hood support. I cut the front frame horns 1/2" off of the steering box as well. When I tried to mount my grille to mock it up, the vertical supports that hold the grille together are hitting the frame rails. Did anyone else have this issue?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

notch the framerails for grill uprights. i've run into that before. remember, no two of these is exactly the same. that's exactly why no kit will ever fit as good as a custom build!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I actually like to cut the framerails back to just before the first bolt hole of the steering box. the steering box actually sticks out past the framerail this way. and not to make it more complicated, but I cut it at an angle or leave the lower part of the framerail longer so I have plenty of room for bumper brackets.

would that give you room for your grille uprights?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Shock absorber question-Does anyone here have input/preference for S10 shocks? I've got 2" drop spindles in front and 3" lowering blocks in the rear, so as I understand it I preserve the original dimensions for shock length. I'd like to at least consider air adjustables for the rears in case I carry a heavy load, but handling is more of a priority.

Thanks for any input.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks guys, I'm sure it will give me plenty of room. It's only hitting by about an inch and a half. I'll take a better look at it on my next few days off. Working nights really puts a damper on projects.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, do I need to clearance my frame rail on the driver side for my exhaust to clear? I know nobody has mentioned this as I've read this post over multiple times over a year now. I have a 54 that I've used your cabstand design on a 94 LBRC chassis and I've installed an 04 6.0 LS with about 1" behind the passenger head to firewall for clearance and on the driver side the stock rear manifold looks like it's shooting straight for the frame. Am I missing something or will it clear?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Check my build in the projects section "Francis the Tow Pig". I moved my engine 1.5" to the passenger side and still had to cut the manifold and change the direction. They are made out of cast steel so you can weld mild steel pipe on them.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Will do. Thanks. I'm doing a 6. 0/4l80e combo. Been sitting idle on it for other builds and I'm going to jump on it and have it on the road hopefully by January.

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I am building my first truck using this website as direction. I don't want to use the in take fuel pump. I can't use a mechanical, so I need something like the rotary vane. Reading the reviews for fuel pumps on Summit/Jegs/Speedway they all are loud and unreliable. I need opinions from those that have a success story

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used a carter rotary vane from summit, had it running and I doubt you'd ever hear it even at idle. Yet to have the truck back together to verify all that. The nice thing about the rotary vane is easy to install, cheap and from what I read reliable. It was maybe 50$ or something.

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SHOCK answer, I was enlightened by joedoh on the Belltech drop shocks. Check them out on summit.

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Thanks, 99. I found those yesterday, and I'll probably order up a set today. Tire Rack seems to be the place.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

i use stock monroe's up front with drop spindles and i can think of no reason to not use air shocks in the rear.
i don't recommend using stock manifolds for that exact reason. any shorty header will work, or if you can find them, trailblazer SS.
and he's right, i've been running a Carter rotory vane in my son's 48 for 5+ years.