Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I should clear up my question the lower radiator hose is for LS engine swap with stock radiator.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
That color is going to look great
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Picked up the cab today/tonight. Got it in the shop. Now need some time to put it on the frame. Can't wait. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Good deal! :metal: Mocking up all of your sheet metal the plan?
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Problem is the bed situation..... still not sure what to do with it yet. |
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Ok don't laugh. Since it was pouring down rain outside I didn't want to take the cab outside so I made this work inside dropped right on no problems.
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Talk about a tight fit!!! I know I measured many many times. But man fit in nice and tight but enough room to slide my hand in around the back of the motor.
The only thing that is to close for me is the return transmission line. It is hitting the cab. So I ordered a 45° elbow that will replace the straight fitting and we should be good. Now for a question. What is the best way to square up the cab to the frame? |
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After getting all the body bushings and bolts in I stood back and as was like wow!!!!
I have not seen this truck assembled this far. Remember this truck is coming together from pieces, non of these parts have ever been on the same truck together. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
Wow, looks great! :metal: Laughed just a little bit, very ingenious Scott! :lol:
Not a body guy but I would think you can check inner rocker to frame for side to side and some squaring. That’ll get you close but needs the front clip and then a bed to tell the whole story. |
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All we did was raise and lower as it didn't move other than that. I did what you were saying regarding trying to square the Cab to the frame. I just wanted to make sure that it was even on both sides and not needed to be like a 1/2" to one side for some reason. |
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Good morning guys.
Had some time last night to get the doors mounted and adjusted. Thought what the heck keep going!!! Got the fenders on and grill installed. Need to adjust the passenger fender a little more but couldn't do it by myself. When I left last night it was 1/8" out of square. Not bad for doing it by myself. The aftermarket radiator support needs some work holes don't line up etc. I will drill them out and repair after I blow it apart for paint. Feeling pretty good about it. I took a picture of the truck and sent it to him with the caption "check out MY truck". LOL. With sports, FFA and homework he doesn't have much time to help. Oh and he said. "Your crazy" |
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Anyone up for a little window frame bending????
Talked to my body guy. He said it was looking good. Gave me a little encouragement on getting the window frame correct. I knew I had to bend it but wanted him to verify. 10 min after he left. It was ready!!!! Now I need to get the holes in the fenders welded up and get them either dipped or blasted. I am going to clean up what I can but will soak the seams/pinch welds with rust converter. Bad thing is no one is close to me that does that stuff. I guess I could just blast them with media from tractor supply or soda blast them. any ideas? |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
:phat:Very, very nice Scott, great stance! :thumbs:
Kind of a PITA, but if you've got a compressor that'll keep up you could blast those parts yourself? |
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Yes I have a large 80 gallon 5.5 hp compressor. Just not sure the best media to use and where to get it. Also. Be nice to just drop off and pick up lol. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I use black oxide for blasting. Tractor supply is the cheapest place to get it. or fine grit sand. I also filter the black oxide and reuse it several times to save cost.
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Until I figure out what I am going to do with the blasting. I went ahead and welded up the holes on the door from the trim.
More to come. |
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I picked up some 80 grit Garnet at work to see if it would work. A little aggressive but not to bad. The Garnet was nice to clean up. I will see if we have anything a little finer and try it. Tractor supply was out of the black oxide so I will have to wait.
I was able to get the passenger fender cleaned up on the inside. I am going to coat the pinch welds/lap joints with rust encapsulator. I think that it will help keep the fender from rusting in places I cant get to, to clean up the rust. my paint and body guy said that it would not hurt. Sorry no pictures today. |
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Per the Black Diamond, I think i bought the medium grit then decided it was to course so bought some fine grit. |
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Hey Mike thanks for the link. I will look into it. I know my body guy uses rust mort. But I like the idea of the wicking properties you spoke of.
An update. I was able to get the doors and fenders and cowl aligned about as good as I can. Got all the gaps as close as I can get. So now I have a few questions. Is it common to cut up or weld up on the cowl to make the gaps correct? I am trying to keep the gaps at 3/16" no more than 1/4" Check out the pictures of the passenger side. |
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The driver side gaps are much better. I was hoping that both would be this good but no luck.
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Motor Monday picture!!!:metal:
Ok so I got the hood hinges installed. Now time to square it all up and put the hood on and check fitment |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I have seen a couple builds here where they sliced and diced the cowl a bit, nothing I have done so I can advise much on that. It does look like that maybe the addition of a length of welding rod to the rear of the passenger side may help get that gap to the door closed up a bit.
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Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
It looks great, thinking your gaps are well within GM specs! ;) I concur time to see what the hood will tell you?
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I do believe I can add a little bit of rod to the door side of the cowl but will need to take a little from the A pillar gap. |
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Did GM have a spec? I guess 1/8"-1/2" is a spec lol. I am trying to just make them the same. About 3/16" would be good. I agree about the hood just need to get some help to get that hood intstalled. It will tell everything I think. How did yours fit when you test fit it? I am sure yours is a GM hood, mine is a aftermarket cowl induction hood. So I am sure I will have to do some work. |
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Last weekend I went ahead and bought that whole truck. 72 Cheyenne c20
I figured for what I paid for it I get the bed and will sell the rest of the parts to recoup my money. May even make a little bit. In the pictures I have already removed most of the trim and damaged stuff. Has a great driver door and fender. Passenger fender has a dent on the outer skin but the inside is in great shape. Inner door components all the AC stuff etc. Has a great in cab gas tank that I'm going to put in Hulk Jr. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
I used straight ceiling grid wire (1/8) when I needed gaps filled, worked great.
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Good score on the whole truck purchase, that bed is going to look very cherry on this truck! :metal: |
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Thanks Brett I used the paint stick method. I was also told the same by my body guy.
The thing I am worried about is that I get the gaps where I want them and then the hood goes on and I have to move them out because the hood is 1/4" to long or far forward. I have seen a few people have hood issues from having nice and tight gaps but the hood wants fat and nasty!!!! As soon as I get help I am going to get he hood bolting on and find out. I got the whole truck for 400$. My plan is to get my money back with the rest of the truck. Suspension, axles, door, fender interior parts. Etc. I think I can get my 400 back fast. Tha attached pictures are me massaging the metal for better gaps. I now have the front sheetmetal square. I think I have to work on the lower fender/rocker area it need a little bigger gap and add some filler to the cowl to the door area. Again all is good if the hood fits right. Oh one more thing. The cowl cover to the cowl. I have about 1/4" between them I know the seal will fill maybe 1/8". Is this normal? |
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More and more adjusting. It can't get anymore square. Moved the cowl induction hood next to the truck and opened the box. Man I need some help.
Hopefully I can get it on tomorrow. |
Re: Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"
That is way to nice of a hood for you. I think I should have it.
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Sahweet hood! :ito:
Thinking your cowl panel will pull down to your 1/8" guesstimate once you install the mounting screws. Curious if your original paint panel has these little pads, one on each side? I removed them when we sent ours out for blasting so I could reinstall them on final assembly. |
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Brett my sons yellow 70 has them but it's complete. The green 68 or the 2 extra cowls I have didn't have them. I do have them off the 72 I just got. But probably just going to get re pops.
Thanks for the picture. Question I have is... did they attached to the cowl or to the cab originally? |
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With a little help this afternoon I was able to get the hood installed.
Looks great, of course not with most its repop issues. I will have to add a little metal to the driver side of the hood about 1/3 of the way from the nose back. But I wil keep tweaking it as it gets a little more uniform. |
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These are the first pictures I took of the initial install and adjustment.
Not bad but will continue to work on it. |
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I was able to sell the steel floor bed on CL. I got my money out of it so that is good. I was able to work on the gaps a little more on the hood.
I disassembled the wood floor and fender well on the bed. It is about ready to be in pieces. I am thinking of painting the wood the truck color with SS slats. But will see as I get closer. The bed rails will be powder coated |
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I also found this jewel on CL.
Not sure what they came out of but the guy said he paid over 1500$ to have them custom made. Top is gray leather with gray vinyl sides. Not sure I will keep the color but a good deal none the less. I seen a factory buddy buckets at the Turlock swap meet for 2200$. These are nicer. Both sides are fully adjustable, center has lower compartment and fold down arm rest is also a compartment. I think it was a good deal. |
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